Hi Roger,
Read the line you just saved again---there are no cross braces at the base
extensions...! : >)
~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
**************************************************************************************************************
On 2011-07-06, at 8:50 AM, K8RI on TT wrote:
> On 7/6/2011 7:16 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote:
>> Hi Chas,
>>
>> The Delhi-brand tower sections---including the base extensions that are
>> placed inside the concrete base---have bolt holes at each end for attaching
>> to the next section(s)...the extensions are essentially the "legs" of the
>> tower sections minus the cross-braces.
>
> I would think the cross braces between the legs would be far more
> efficient making the bolts redundant
>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>> The manufacturer recommends inserting long bolts through the bottom holes of
>> each extension (again, the parts that are imbedded within concrete) to
>> ensure (I guess) a firmer "bond" within the concrete after it has set,
>> afforded by the fact that these bolts protrude 90-degrees from the plane of
>> each extension...
>>
>> Sorta like the barb on the business end of a fish hook...
>>
>> ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
>>
>>
>> ************************************************************************************************************************
>>
>>
>> On 2011-07-05, at 11:46 PM, chas wrote:
>>
>>> On 6/29/11 8:35 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote:
>>>> Hi Mike,
>>>>
>>>> The DELHI-brand self-supporting tower instructions here do not
>>>> specifically reference the necessity of coating the in-cement leg
>>>> extensions with ANYTHING...
>>>>
>>>> They DO, however, explicitly state that you must install long bolts
>>>> through holes in the extensions at the bottom, to ensure that the things
>>>> won't somehow extricate themselves from the concrete.
>>>>
>>>> ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
>>> Eddy...
>>>
>>> ok, can you say that again? my understanding is that he is taking a 10'
>>> section of 45 and putting 5' of that into a hole and then filling it with
>>> concrete.
>>> Same thing I did with a 25G. Btw, I do suggest that room be left for
>>> drainage of water - 1. put a 6" layer of large aggregate in the bottom of
>>> the
>>> hole and that allows condensate, etc to drain out of the vertical tubes and
>>> into the aggregate 2. also drill a couple of 1/4" holes in each leg about 2"
>>> above the MOUNDED concrete top (to encourage rain runoff) to allow water to
>>> drain out of each tube. also, DO get a gallon of roofing cement (tar
>>> asphalt) and paint the tower section from one foot below the top, MOUNDED
>>> surface to one foot ABOVE the top surface of this mounded concrete. DO pour
>>> enough to get the top of the concrete above the level of the ground - use a
>>> form tube set about 6" down into the ground and extending between 6" and 8"
>>> above the ground level. iow, get a 1 foot long piece of 3' diam concrete
>>> form tube used for sign or highway columns. In fact, I have formed a
>>> relationship with a couple of sign companies and have them do odd jobs like
>>> drilling the 3' diam hole and I have them do plate welding, winch/crane
>>> work,
>>> buy the cardboard concrete form tube. Remember, mound the top of the pour
>>> about 3 - 4" above the top edge of that form tube. Do NOT allow any chance
>>> of dirt to cover the top of that concrete foundation.
>>>
>>> some of the above is from about 4 yrs of being a sign inspector, more is
>>> plain old common sense. btw, about the asphalt, our swamp coolers at home
>>> never rusted out... most did within 2 yrs. tried pricing one of those
>>> lately?<G>
>>>
>>> good luck
>>> chas, k5dam
>>>
>>>
>>> Chas
>>> --
>>> A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text.<B>
>>> Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?<B>
>>> A: Top-posting.<b>
>>> Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?<B>
>>>
>>> .
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