I have had good success with W.H.Westlake Electronics in England. Seven days
and flat rate shipping for about $5. Very good quality. Seems similiar to those
described by W9AC. Ten cost $67 inc/shipping.
Howard..K2HK
> From: w9ac@arrl.net
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2011 17:26:57 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Clamp Type UHF/PL-259 Connector (Epilogue)
>
> Joe,
>
> You may want to order one or two at first and determine if it is a one-step
> prep process (if important to you) that includes a flanged ferrule like the
> Multicomp connector. The flanged ferrule is what separates the connector
> from the others like it. Or, is the braid flared and/or soldered onto a
> retaining ring like the RF Industries UHF clamp product? That product is
> assembled like the male "N" where the braid is flared onto a ring and does
> not have the same one-step prep and gripping benefit as the Multicomp.
>
> Paul, W9AC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe Giacobello, K2XX" <k2xx@swva.net>
> To: <n4zr@contesting.com>
> Cc: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2011 5:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Clamp Type UHF/PL-259 Connector (Epilogue)
>
>
> > Pete, I did a search on Ebay and found another supplier of what
> > appears to be the same connector. This supplier is located in Shanghai
> > rather than Hong Kong. The price is $2.79 per connector and $0.99 each
> > for shipping. So the effective price per connector is $3.78. It still
> > seems to be a good deal if they work as well and easily as you describe.
> >
> > The item number is 270634166510.
> >
> > 73, Joe
> > K2XX.
> >
> > On 2/11/2011 2:48 PM, Pete Smith wrote:
> >> Coincidentally, yesterday I received a couple of clamp-type PL-259s that
> >> I ordered from a Chinese vendor on E-Bay -- the two connectors,
> >> including air mail, totalled only US$6. They are not quite the same -
> >> the shells are nickelpl , the inner conductor is gold flashed, and the
> >> innards are in several different pieces - see
> >> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270680278483>. The
> >> center conductor and insulator are not captive, as it appears Paul's are
> >> - this allows full assembly and test before soldering.
> >>
> >> I just put one together with minimal wrench work, and then took it
> >> apart. The clamping appears very good both electrically and from the
> >> standpoint of water-proofing.
> >>
> >> I think I'm in love. Now if only they have a size for RG-58/8X.
> >>
> >> 73, Pete N4ZR
> >>
> >> The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at
> >> www.conteststations.com
> >> The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at
> >> reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
> >> spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On 2/11/2011 1:12 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:
> >>> A few weeks ago, Ian, GM3SEK suggested looking into a clamp-type
> >>> UHF/PL-259
> >>> connector (not crimp) that offered easy assembly and a weather-resistant
> >>> backing for outdoor installations. The only soldering required is for
> >>> the
> >>> inner conductor.
> >>>
> >>> I ordered a dozen connectors through Newark Electronics and the shipment
> >>> arrived today. I had a RG-214 jumper that needed shortening so I tried
> >>> the
> >>> new connectors this morning.
> >>>
> >>> http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=94M6035
> >>>
> >>> These connectors are specific to the larger RG-213/214 and LMR400 class
> >>> of
> >>> cables. However Multicomp offers a smaller clamp-style connector for
> >>> RG-58.
> >>>
> >>> Cable prep for the Multicomp clamp UHF connector could hardly be easier.
> >>> When Ian said it was a one cut prep with no special tools required, he
> >>> meant
> >>> it. I used a ChannelLock cable cutter (seen on the bench) but a utility
> >>> knife could also be used to make the single cut. I simply took the
> >>> cable
> >>> cutter to rotate a single cut at one time through the jacket, braid,
> >>> dielectric, and stopped at the inner conductor. The jacket, braid, and
> >>> dielectric are spun off in one twist and discarded. Next, a flanged
> >>> metallic and non-metallic bushing are inserted onto the end of the
> >>> cable.
> >>> The result looks like this:
> >>>
> >>> http://72.52.250.47/images/PL-259-1.jpg
> >>>
> >>> You can see I first installed the connector on a section of discarded
> >>> LMR400
> >>> for a trial. Notice the end clamp and red non-metallic bushing on the
> >>> cable. The connector inner pin must be milled out just a bit to
> >>> accommodate
> >>> the LMR400's solid inner conductor. I inserted a 7/64 drill bit and
> >>> twisted
> >>> until the opening widened. This step is not required with the RG cables
> >>> and
> >>> may not be necessary with other LMR400 variants like UF.
> >>>
> >>> After completing the connector, I wanted to disassemble it to determine
> >>> difficulty. It was a super-easy to remove just by re-heating the inner
> >>> conductor and unscrewing the end clamp. Next, I re-used the same
> >>> connector
> >>> on my RG-214 jumper. Here's the end result:
> >>>
> >>> http://72.52.250.47/images/PL-259-2.jpg
> >>>
> >>> The end clamp screws into the body using two adjustable open-ended
> >>> wrenches -- similar to installing an "N" type connector. The cable at
> >>> the
> >>> clamp end is fully sealed and the connector body absolutely does not
> >>> rotate.
> >>>
> >>> A few comments:
> >>>
> >>> 1) This connector is weather-resistant between the nut and connector
> >>> body.
> >>> Unlike an "N" type, the threaded shell does not form a seal onto the
> >>> mating
> >>> SO-239. That's primarily a limitation of the 'teeth' design used on the
> >>> SO-239.
> >>>
> >>> 2) Unlike a soldered UHF connector, one can visually inspect the work
> >>> before
> >>> inserting the cable into body of the connector until satisfied that the
> >>> prep
> >>> is good before soldering the inner conductor. Even then, removal only
> >>> requires re-heating the inner conductor. Try that with a soldered
> >>> PL-259 on
> >>> RG-213/LMR400 cable. Yes, I know there are those who claim they can
> >>> visually inspect and remove a soldered PL-259 by pounding the
> >>> connector's
> >>> dielectric out of the shell with a nut driver. You decide whether
> >>> that's
> >>> the proper use of the connector and right tool for the job;
> >>>
> >>> 3) These connectors are not inexpensive but I will now use them for
> >>> outdoor
> >>> use, while continuing to use crimp connectors indoors. However, since
> >>> these
> >>> connectors are easily re-used, the initial cost may be offset by
> >>> economizing
> >>> on re-use in some instances rather than the purchase of new UHF
> >>> connectors.
> >>>
> >>> Paul, W9AC
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> .
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
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> >>>
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
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> >>
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