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Re: [TowerTalk] Non-Guyed Support for 80m Horizontal Loop at 35 feet

To: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Non-Guyed Support for 80m Horizontal Loop at 35 feet
From: jimlux <jimlux@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2011 11:01:40 -0800
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
On 2/6/11 10:14 AM, Grant Saviers wrote:
> Thanks Jim,
>
> A bit of an oops in my post, I hit send rather than save as draft.
>
> I was using buckling loosely as a term although for the really big poles
> the standard does include column buckling and uses a segmented approach
> for the taper for the wind load bending moments and stress.
>
> I haven't done a decent calc for the wind load stress, I need to refresh
> some very old learning or find a java app :-) .

One could probably use the flagpole guidelines and add a bit for the 
wires (which can have surprisingly high drag, given their small 
diameter.. back when I was interested in small plane/ultralight 
modeling, I was amazed to discover that a 1/4" cable had a lot more drag 
than a big 1"x3" strut)



>
> What would be really neat is for somebody with a bit more expertise than
> I have to figure out several cost optimized self supporting poles for
> wire antennas.

It would make an excellent QST article, no? Maybe we could get some 
folks on this list to collaborate on such a thing.  It's a LOT of work 
to generate a finished article, but if the toil is divided up among 
several people, it's more tractable.


  For example my steel supplier stocks 20' lengths, so they
> would be good for 35' poles. One of the Metal Supermarkets or the like
> has 24 footers, so they would be good for 42' or so. The question to be
> answered is what is the cheapest pole design for some wind load (e.g.
> 80mph) and say 200 lb of wire force at the top? Beyond 42' might be best
> left to a Structural PE, soils engineer, and professional erector.
>
> I'm partial to square tube steel since the moments are higher than pipe

Actually, for a given cost (i.e. weight of steel), round tube is your 
best deal. And larger diameter with thinner wall is better (that 4th 
power in the second moment, and why car drive shafts are hollow sheet 
metal tubes, etc.)

> and there is a variety of wall thickness available for ease of
> telescoping fits.

Yes..


  Also, the average ham could probably thru bolt the
> joints rather than some structural welding.

Yes. That makes the engineering a bit more complex.  I guess you could 
design/calculate based on holes with a lot of clearance, etc.

While doing everything yourself is an admirable goal, sometimes it's 
better to hire someone to do a specialized task. And welding fits in 
that category.. A decent welding rig costs more than a drill, and you 
really need some real practice and training to do it right.

The trick is in finding somewhere to get it done.  If your day job is 
working in a cube farm or managing the same, finding a welding 
fabricator isn't a simple task. You just don't even know where to start, 
because it's not like you want a whole building constructed, just an 
hour's worth of welding work for $50.

So, an article about "how to find a structural welder for your antenna 
project" might be useful.  Around here (southern California) places that 
do motorcycle frames or race cars are one place. Lots of places that do 
decorative fences, but typically, those guys aren't necessarily who I'd 
hire to do something structural.  But it's one of those things that you 
can't do by googling.  It's a lot of phone calls, or going by the shop 
and asking "can you do this, or do you know someone who does?" and if 
you don't know where the shop is in the first place...




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