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Re: [TowerTalk] Soldering PL-259

To: <TOWERTALK@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Soldering PL-259
From: <john@kk9a.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 14:43:28 -0500
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
I've used this method for 25 years with great success.

John KK9A


To: Stu Ritter <Stu@mercedeslist.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Soldering PL-259
From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2011 09:43:18 -0800


The process I've used for 40 years for solder PL259's to RG8/11, not new
or unique and in several texts:

remove about 1.5" of jacket with a box cutter, bending the cable so you
don't nick the braid
evenly and thinly tin the shield braid all around for 3/4" beyond the jacket
use a small tubing (refrigeration) cutter to score and mostly cut
through the tinned braid at 5/8"
use a sharp box cutter knife to finish cut the braid, trim any uneven
spots with a fine tip diagonal cutter
cut the center insulation with the knife about 1/16" beyond the braid
place the barrel on the cable
thread on the center part, it may take some pliers to get it all the way on
solder each hole with a 200+ watt gun/iron (some of us still have one),
completely fill each hole  (for Ni plated connectors it is a good idea
to tin each hole prior to threading them on)
solder the center pin

never had a short or open, and they are more water tight then some other
processes
it's hard to do this on a cold day with the wind blowing as the heat
loss is too large, or without a vise or helper to hold the cable steady.
Yes, the center conductor insulation melts a bit, but there is no place
for it to go.

Grant KZ1W 

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