I have had the relay problem with my HDX-555 and plugging in a good spare
fixed it, as suggested here.
I have also had the lower limit switch trigger rod get out of line and used
a pliers to fix it. It is so easy to reach.
I now have a problem with the upper limit switch so that the tower goes down
but the motor does not start to pull up. As noted before, I am following
some great tips on this reflector and will tilt the tower over when the
weather gets better and examine that upper limit switch. It appears jammed.
Yes, please post any remedies you discover. Good luck.
Ed, W1MAG
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-request@contesting.com
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:54 PM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: TowerTalk Digest, Vol 97, Issue 43
Send TowerTalk mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of TowerTalk digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. HDx89MDPL winch motor stopped eorking (Dick Dievendorff)
2. Re: HDx89MDPL winch motor stopped working (Jim McDonald)
3. Re: AllRFCables (Eric Dobrowansky K2WD)
4. Re: current balance in ladder line? (Steve Hunt)
5. Re: Tower Paint (David Gilbert)
6. Re: HDx89MDPL winch motor stopped eorking
(Richard (Rick) Karlquist)
7. Re: HDx89MDPL winch motor stopped eorking (Robert Harmon)
8. Re: HDx89MDPL winch motor stopped eorking (Dick Dievendorff)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 07:58:38 -0800
From: Dick Dievendorff <dieven@comcast.net>
Subject: [TowerTalk] HDx89MDPL winch motor stopped eorking
To: "towertalk@contesting.com" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <1E711E40-DB81-4EE1-8464-083891296234@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> I went out on Friday afternoon to lower the tower. Nothing happened when I
> flipped the switch. I checked the plug and GFI breaker, it seems to have
> juice
>
> I plan to return in Tuesday and begin diagnosis. I'll check for AC power
> at the outlet, and inside the box mounted on the tower. Beyond that I'm in
> new territory. Motor start capacitor? How does one test that?
> How would I go about bringing the tower down at least partway manually?
Dick, K6KR
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 10:04:21 -0600
From: "Jim McDonald" <jim@n7us.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] HDx89MDPL winch motor stopped working
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <002d01cbb660$34b1e320$9e15a960$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Dick,
In answer to the last question, US Tower sells a hand crank. It is mounted
to a round plate with bolts and nuts and fits into, more or less, the pulley
on the gearbox. It is difficult to keep it in place when turning it, and it
takes a long time (many revolutions) to lower the tower. You have to remove
the perforated safety guard to get access to the pulley.
Jim N7US
-----Original Message-----
> I went out on Friday afternoon to lower the tower. Nothing happened when I
flipped the switch. I checked the plug and GFI breaker, it seems to have
juice
>
> I plan to return in Tuesday and begin diagnosis. I'll check for AC power
at the outlet, and inside the box mounted on the tower. Beyond that I'm in
new territory. Motor start capacitor? How does one test that?
> How would I go about bringing the tower down at least partway manually?
Dick, K6KR
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 16:10:52 +0000 (UTC)
From: Eric Dobrowansky K2WD <k2wd@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] AllRFCables
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID:
<1410434144.1360573.1295280652034.JavaMail.root@sz0046a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I've purchased and used a considerable amount of AllRFCables (Shireen)
RFC400 cable. Over 10k feet so far. ? In fact, I have almost 2000ft in
service at the moment at my?own?qth. Ten runs from the shack to the tower,
six runs up the tower, and a few to the wire antennas.?I am very happy with
it.? It is as good as Times LMR400. I am even using it in a loop (for the
rotor) at the top of the tower, and no issues so far. The other hams I have
delivered it to are also happy with it.
It is hard, if not impossible,?to beat for the price.? I am close enough
where I have been able to pick up my bulk purchases a few times, which saved
a lot on shipping.?The owner and his staff have been very nice to deal with.
I would not hesitate to try it. But see for yourself - call them and they
will be more than happy to send you? a?1ft sample of their 400 and 600
series cables.
Eric
K2CB
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 09:04:49 -0500
From: Steve Maki <lists@oakcom.org>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] AllRFCables.com?
To: towertalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <4D344C81.5050301@oakcom.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
It's probably Shireen RFC600. Shireen claims their cables are made in
USA. I've used a few reels of their RFC400 and the quality seems
equivalent to LMR.
-Steve K8LX
On 1/16/2011 10:13 PM, Roger wrote:
> On 1/16/2011 8:36 PM, Alan NV8A wrote:
>> Anyone bought from AllRFCables.com? They are advertising "similar to
>> LMR600" cable marked "RFC600" for what seems like a good price -- if
>> it's good quality.
>>
> At 95 cents per foot or 78 cents per foot in 500 foot lots the price is
> good with LMR-600 now running about $1.40 to $1.50 a foot. YMMV
> depending on vendors.
>
> HOWEVER it's the "equivalent" statement that should add a note of
> caution. ?The stuff may be every bit as good as LMR-600 and it may not.
> IT may stand up as well, better, or no where near a long as Times Wire
> LMR cables. ?Untill some one knowledgeable tests it out and it's been
> used widely (or it's made to spec by a known manufacturer) the quality
> remains a question.
>
> To me the LMR cables are great. ?The LMR - UF cables are not. ?I've had
> good luck with the former and very poor with the latter. ?Not only did I
> have jackets split, I had them develop pin holes in areas that were not
> subjected to any abrading or external contact. ?The jackets in question
> were just coming down the side of a mast exposed to the elements.
>
> Possibly some one on here is familiar with that cable and who makes it.
>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>> 73
>>
>> Alan NV8A
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 09:04:49 -0500
From: Steve Maki <lists@oakcom.org>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] AllRFCables.com?
To: towertalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <4D344C81.5050301@oakcom.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
It's probably Shireen RFC600. Shireen claims their cables are made in
USA. I've used a few reels of their RFC400 and the quality seems
equivalent to LMR.
-Steve K8LX
On 1/16/2011 10:13 PM, Roger wrote:
> On 1/16/2011 8:36 PM, Alan NV8A wrote:
>> Anyone bought from AllRFCables.com? They are advertising "similar to
>> LMR600" cable marked "RFC600" for what seems like a good price -- if
>> it's good quality.
>>
> At 95 cents per foot or 78 cents per foot in 500 foot lots the price is
> good with LMR-600 now running about $1.40 to $1.50 a foot. YMMV
> depending on vendors.
>
> HOWEVER it's the "equivalent" statement that should add a note of
> caution. ?The stuff may be every bit as good as LMR-600 and it may not.
> IT may stand up as well, better, or no where near a long as Times Wire
> LMR cables. ?Untill some one knowledgeable tests it out and it's been
> used widely (or it's made to spec by a known manufacturer) the quality
> remains a question.
>
> To me the LMR cables are great. ?The LMR - UF cables are not. ?I've had
> good luck with the former and very poor with the latter. ?Not only did I
> have jackets split, I had them develop pin holes in areas that were not
> subjected to any abrading or external contact. ?The jackets in question
> were just coming down the side of a mast exposed to the elements.
>
> Possibly some one on here is familiar with that cable and who makes it.
>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>> 73
>>
>> Alan NV8A
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:08:29 +0000
From: Steve Hunt <steve@karinya.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] current balance in ladder line?
To: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <4D34778D.7040505@karinya.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Grant,
The 1:1 choke at the ladderline/coax junction will impede conducted CM
current from flowing back along the outside of the coax sheath. That
will drive equal and opposite leg currents in the ladderline *at that
point*.
As you rightly suppose, other factors which unbalance the antenna or
ladderline could still cause CM current at other points along the
ladderline, despite the choke at the junction.
73,
Steve G3TXQ
On 17/01/2011 03:48, Grant Saviers wrote:
> I'm using a ladder line fed 80m dipole as an all band antenna with a
> tuned length of line, high Z 1:1 choke at the LL to coax junction. One
> assumption in these antennas kinda baffles me, so here is a question for
> tower-talkians with expertise in transmission lines and baluns:
>
> Why is the current into the antenna balanced? If I adequately choke the
> coax at the ladder line junction the current should be balanced there.
> Theory says ladder line doesn't radiate IF the current is equal (must be
> equal in phase and amplitude I assume) in both wires, but it will get
> unbalanced if one side is near metal, etc. So what happens on the
> ladder line if the antenna is not balanced at the feedpoint?
>
> Is there such a device as a ladder line balun ala the baluns used to
> drive ethernet twisted pairs? (seems like a similar problem but at 100
> ohms pair Z, a ferrite 1:1 current balun is not difficult to build).
>
> Grant KZ1W
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 10:15:44 -0700
From: David Gilbert <xdavid@cis-broadband.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Paint
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <4D347940.9020903@cis-broadband.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
When I installed my AN Wireless HD-70 tower I wanted to paint it with
dark, flat colors to minimize the visual impact to the rest of the
neighborhood. Dan Simmonds, the owner, told me that a good quality
exterior grade latex house paint should work fine painted directly over
the galvanizing. The tower was new and free of any oil, and it worked
fine. I used two coats with a brush and the stuff is on there like
battle armor.
73,
Dave AB7E
On 1/17/2011 6:04 AM, Pete Smith wrote:
> There's a lot in the archive on this. I used a pressure washer to
> remove the old loose paint, then a primer specially formulated for
> galvanized metal, followed by good quality latex house paint. After 15
> years, aside from a little wear on the tower rungs from climbing, it
> looks essentially like it did the day I painted it.
>
> 73, Pete N4ZR
>
> The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at
> www.conteststations.com
> The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at
> reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
> spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000
>
>
>
> On 1/17/2011 7:39 AM, Joel Harrison wrote:
>> I have a tower I have acquired that has been painted red& white that I
>> want
>> to paint over so it looks "natural" or as close to its unpainted
>> galvanized
>> color as possible. The tower is in excellent condx so it is just a
>> cosmetics
>> issue, not a structural one of rust or diminishing galvanizing.
>>
>> Is there a specific paint that anyone here has used or any tips on tower
>> painting?
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 09:34:37 -0800
From: "Richard (Rick) Karlquist" <richard@karlquist.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] HDx89MDPL winch motor stopped eorking
To: Dick Dievendorff <dieven@comcast.net>
Cc: "towertalk@contesting.com" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <4D347DAD.6000308@karlquist.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Try swapping the time delay relays to see if
the down relay went bad. They are socketed.
These are low reliability components.
"nothing happens" isn't the capacitor. If
that goes, the motor will make a lot of noise
and not move.
Rick N6RK
On 1/17/2011 7:58 AM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:
>> I went out on Friday afternoon to lower the tower. Nothing happened when
>> I flipped the switch. I checked the plug and GFI breaker, it seems to
>> have juice
>>
>> I plan to return in Tuesday and begin diagnosis. I'll check for AC power
>> at the outlet, and inside the box mounted on the tower. Beyond that I'm
>> in new territory. Motor start capacitor? How does one test that?
>> How would I go about bringing the tower down at least partway manually?
>
> Dick, K6KR
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 10:22:34 -0800
From: Robert Harmon <k6uj@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] HDx89MDPL winch motor stopped eorking
To: Dick Dievendorff <dieven@comcast.net>
Cc: towertalk reflector <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <22B28BC7-04F5-49AC-8EE3-AF75835DA937@pacbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Dick,
I have a HDX589MDPL also. I am very interested in what you find.
Please keep us advised. I believe these towers have a worm reduction
gearbox and we can crank the the pulley wheel on the gearbox around by hand
to raise and lower it. I haven't yet had to do this with mine, anybody
on the forum done this with their HDX ?
Bob
K6UJ
On Jan 17, 2011, at 9:34 AM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist wrote:
> Try swapping the time delay relays to see if
> the down relay went bad. They are socketed.
> These are low reliability components.
>
> "nothing happens" isn't the capacitor. If
> that goes, the motor will make a lot of noise
> and not move.
>
> Rick N6RK
>
> On 1/17/2011 7:58 AM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:
>>> I went out on Friday afternoon to lower the tower. Nothing happened when
>>> I flipped the switch. I checked the plug and GFI breaker, it seems to
>>> have juice
>>>
>>> I plan to return in Tuesday and begin diagnosis. I'll check for AC power
>>> at the outlet, and inside the box mounted on the tower. Beyond that I'm
>>> in new territory. Motor start capacitor? How does one test that?
>>> How would I go about bringing the tower down at least partway manually?
>>
>> Dick, K6KR
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 10:50:55 -0800
From: Dick Dievendorff <dieven@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] HDx89MDPL winch motor stopped eorking
To: Robert Harmon <k6uj@pacbell.net>
Cc: towertalk reflector <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <B782107C-B89D-4E00-ADBC-36E9165CCA50@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
What I have heard so far is:
1) I can get the tower down by removing the safety guard and the v belt and
turn the wheel by hand. It will take a long time to do this. Down is much
easier than up. Be careful. Take rests. Halfway down gives me a lot of
strength.
2) US Towers sells a crank. It takes a long time. I plan to call them on
Tuesday fir suggestions.
3) this doesn't sound like a motor capacitor failure, which would be
noisier. There are a couple of socketed timing relays that I should try
swapping
I'm away until Wednesday morning, and I'll start on this then. I'll let you
all know what I learn.
73 de Dick, K6KR
On Jan 17, 2011, at 10:22, Robert Harmon <k6uj@pacbell.net> wrote:
> Dick,
> I have a HDX589MDPL also. I am very interested in what you find.
> Please keep us advised. I believe these towers have a worm reduction
> gearbox and we can crank the the pulley wheel on the gearbox around by
> hand
> to raise and lower it. I haven't yet had to do this with mine, anybody
> on the forum done this with their HDX ?
>
> Bob
> K6UJ
>
>
>
> On Jan 17, 2011, at 9:34 AM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist wrote:
>
>> Try swapping the time delay relays to see if
>> the down relay went bad. They are socketed.
>> These are low reliability components.
>>
>> "nothing happens" isn't the capacitor. If
>> that goes, the motor will make a lot of noise
>> and not move.
>>
>> Rick N6RK
>>
>> On 1/17/2011 7:58 AM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:
>>>> I went out on Friday afternoon to lower the tower. Nothing happened
>>>> when I flipped the switch. I checked the plug and GFI breaker, it seems
>>>> to have juice
>>>>
>>>> I plan to return in Tuesday and begin diagnosis. I'll check for AC
>>>> power at the outlet, and inside the box mounted on the tower. Beyond
>>>> that I'm in new territory. Motor start capacitor? How does one test
>>>> that?
>>>> How would I go about bringing the tower down at least partway manually?
>>>
>>> Dick, K6KR
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> TowerTalk mailing list
>>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
------------------------------
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TowerTalk mailing list
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End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 97, Issue 43
*****************************************
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