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[TowerTalk] SPG or whatever it is called now, to coax

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Subject: [TowerTalk] SPG or whatever it is called now, to coax
From: "Jim Thomson" <jim.thom@telus.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 16:48:12 -0700
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 15:22:38 -0700
From: jimlux <jimlux@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] SPG or whatever it is called  now, to coax
entrance ground question


>
It doesn't really matter.. The goal is to make sure that the two points 
are at "reasonably" the same potential. If it were me, I'd snug it right 
up against the foundation: 1)less likely to stick a shovel through it 
when gardening or driving something into the soil and

 2) concrete is usually higher conductivity than soil.. might as well take 
advantage of it.

###  say what?    I thought concrete was a a good insulator??  One of the tower 
manufacturer's
in Canada [L+R]  told me yrs ago, sometimes they would tie the grnd 
rods/cadwelds into the
rebar for the base of a tower... prior to concerete pour.   Then I heard a year 
later.. where a tower took
a hit... and pieces of concerete  were flying every where !     They had jack 
hammered the grnd rods in..
at the bottom of the tower hole/base... and cadwelded em, via buss bar.. to the 
bottom ends of the
welded re-bar cage.   The theory was....the grnd rods would be super deep.. and 
below the frost line.  In order
for the above scheme to work.. the path is down the tower legs.. then through 
the concrete.. then into the rebar..
then from rebar into the grnd rods.   That was a large distance between rebar 
cage.. and tower legs.

## I tried the same stunt yrs later... but with a twist.  The 1st section of 
tower went right to the bottom of the hole.
3 x rods jack hammered in at bottom of hole.... and cad welded to all 3 x tower 
legs.   Then concrete was poured.
Rebar was NOT tied into the grnd rods or tower legs.    If the tower gets hit 
with lightning... the path is then straight
down the 3 x tower legs... and right to the bottom of the hole [5' deep]... and 
continues on.. via 3 x grnd rods.. and goes
down another 8'.     The tops of my grnd rods were 1"  away  from each tower 
leg.    

## there was a fellow who posted here several yrs back... who had > $1000.00  
worth
of poly  phaser equipment.  He took a lightning hit... and destroyed a kilobuck 
worth of 
polyphaser gear.

##  I wouldn't trust concrete  to conduct anything.....esp  high strength 30-40 
mpa
concrete [4350-5800 psi]   Higher strength concrete is way less porous to water
ingress as is. 

later.......... Jim   VE7RF  





> 
> At the coax entrance I'm going to place two weatherproof boxes with the
> Polyphasers in them from the two towers. How far away or close to(or on the
> house?) should I place these boxes?

How are you getting the coax into the house? through the back of the 
box? down into the ground and then back up into the house? If the 
polyphaser melts down, you want the burning crud to fall somewhere other 
than on your siding.  Beyond that, think about resistance to mechanical 
damage: bumps, lawnmower/wheelbarrow/ladder strikes.  They should be 
some distance from any wiring inside the wall (phone, network, cabletv, 
power), so that if there *is* a flashover from your antenna system, it's 
not flashing to something that will carry the damage elsewhere. 6"? a 
foot or two?  There's some requirement in the code, but I don't have it 
handy to lookup, and besides, most ham installations aren't "to code" 
anyway (e.g. those Polyphasers aren't "listed antenna discharge units" 
and I'll bet you're not running your coax in metallic raceways/conduit 
the entire distance from the antenna, either)

Think practicality.. accessible for service, not where it will get 
banged into or forgotten, not where it will propagate damage.
> 
>>From this point I will also tie into the two towers with a couple of more
> runs of the 4 gauge copper. One will be about 32 feet the other 75 feet.

Sounds reasonable...
> 
> Any and all advice, or suggestions please as I plan on digging tomorrow
> morning.


Make sure you lay extra runs of conduit, bigger than you think you'll 
need.  In some sense, the extra hours you have to work at your job to 
pay for the conduit are probably less than the hours you'd spend digging 
the trench a second time.  (although, it *is* easier digging it back 
up.. usually fewer rocks to remove, if nothing else)

> 
> 
> 73 Jeff kb2m
>


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