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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: This is a blank test e-mail (Marlon K. Schafer)
> 2. 3 leg windmill towers (susan comiskey)
> 3. problems tuning a F12 240N Magnum (Tom_N2SR)
> 4. Injecting liquid metal into a polymer results in a twistable,
> stretchable antenna. (Steve Sacco NN4X)
> 5. Taper element sections (Tommy)
> 6. Re: Taper element sections (Dubovsky, George)
> 7. Re: Taper element sections (Gene Fuller)
> 8. Re: Taper element sections (Gene Smar)
> 9. Looking for Diawa Rotor, or parts (N4NW)
> 10. Re: Taper element sections/penetrox/cleaning (pfizenmayer)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 13:15:50 -0800
> From: "Marlon K. Schafer" <ooe@odessaoffice.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] This is a blank test e-mail
> To: "Julio Peralta" <jperalta4@verizon.net>, "Tower Talk"
> <TowerTalk@contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <3356CE2C409F436DA18BA24813AEA73E@mlaptop2>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> I got it.
> marlon
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Julio Peralta" <jperalta4@verizon.net>
> To: "Tower Talk" <TowerTalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 9:06 AM
> Subject: [TowerTalk] This is a blank test e-mail
>
>
>> TEST
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 09:55:17 -0700
> From: susan comiskey <svcomiskey@gmail.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] 3 leg windmill towers
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Message-ID:
> <832d0a80912070855t371db13fy51739d3a3e0bf81c@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> I have not been involved with tower talk, but did a google search on three
> legged towers and tower talk came up. Hopefully someone can help. I have
> 3-three leg towers, probably from the 50's. I bought a bunch of "junk" from
> a Forest Service auction and the towers were a part of the lot. The legs
> are about 38 feet long, one peice, and has a "foot" attachment that I am
> guessing goes on top to build a stub tower platform. I am also guessing
> that the anchor legs were abandoned when the towers were taken down. The
> metal is very heavy, about 3/4 inch and 45 degree angle iron. The cross
> braces are angle iron, not the wire type. The braces are stamped with D7 or
> other various letters and number combinations. The bolt markings are NKYM.
> I'd like to find a diagram or parts inventory so I can separate everything
> out and learn how it all goes together. Any info would be a great help.
> Thanks...Mike
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 13:14:19 -0800 (PST)
> From: Tom_N2SR <tom_n2sr@yahoo.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] problems tuning a F12 240N Magnum
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Message-ID: <944803.51550.qm@web111920.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'll try and be brief.? I'm having problems tuning the driven
> element of the F12 240N Magnum.? I've been slowing moving in the
> right direction because of other problems that F12 has been helping
> in taking care of, but the following is my latest concern:
>
> The VSWR is 1.7:1 @ 7.070 MHz, with the element tips at 34 inches.?
> The hairpin coil is 5T of #10 copper wire, close wound (about 1/4"
> spacing).?? [The coil that was sent to me is a 4T coil, so in order
> to save time, I just made my own]?
>
> The set up is 1 electrical wavelength of RG-213, and I have taken
> into account bead balun coax length (the balun is one of those DX
> Engineering piece of RG-142 coax with 100 beads over it).? The coax
> length is around 93 feet or so.? The measurements are being made
> with an MFJ-259B, with an AC adaptor (so there are no low battery
> problems).? The element is being raise to at least 50 feet in the
> air, and maybe even as high as 60 feet.? .? The tower is 90 feet of
> Rohn 45G guyed in two places (39 feet and 79 feet) with 6700#
> phillystran, so I am pretty sure there is no interaction with the
> tower guys.? The element at the measuring height sits away from the
> tower at least 6-8 feet.??
>
> The manual says that the element tips should be around 25 inches.?
> As I said previously, mine are set for 34 inches (I used the
> reflector element tips).? They are held in place with electrical
> tape for the time being.?
>
> Questions.? Should I just continue and tune the element for a 1.1:1
> VSWR and leave the tips where they are (and possabily adjust the
> tips if there is some interaction with tuning the hairpin) ??
>
> I have spoken with a few people who have had these antennas, and
> they all tuned each element separately, put the antenna together,
> and the VSWR was fine.?? Force 12 says that I should tune each
> element separately, then do the final tuning (of the driven
> element)? with both elements on the boom.? That is not going to be
> possible, or at least it's going to be extremely difficult.?
>
> Since the coil is currently close wound (1/4" spacing), if I spread
> the coil a bit, that obviously means that the element wants more
> inductance.? However, I've never heard of anyone using a 6T coil
> (except on the Delta version).??
>
> Should I put the element tips to 25 inches and start tuning from the
> beginning?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tom, N2SR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 21:24:19 -0500
> From: Steve Sacco NN4X <nn4x@embarqmail.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Injecting liquid metal into a polymer results in
> a twistable, stretchable antenna.
> To: towertalk@contesting.com, Peter Bizlewicz <fpyotr@optonline.net>,
> kr2q@optimum.net
> Message-ID: <4B1DB8D3.6080703@embarqmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Maybe this will be the next thing we're putting on our towers.
>
> Monday, December 07, 2009
>
> This Antenna Bends but Won't Break
> Injecting liquid metal into a polymer results in a twistable,
> stretchable antenna.
> By Erika Jonietz
>
> Engineers at North Carolina State University have created a highly
> efficient, flexible, and self-healing antenna using a metal alloy that's
> a liquid at room temperature.
>
> Most of the materials that go into electronic devices are brittle,
> inflexible, and prone to damage, including the copper used most
> frequently to make antennas. The new liquid-metal antenna could make it
> easier to send and receive data from flexible electronics. Possible uses
> include sensors incorporated into clothing or other textiles, pliant
> electronic paper, or implantable biomedical devices.
>
> Michael Dickey, an assistant professor of chemical and biomolecular
> engineering at NC State, was working with a gallium-indium alloy, which
> is liquid at room temperature, researching how it behaves in
> microchannels with a view to electronics fabrication applications.
> Hunting for other possible uses, he hit on the idea of making a flexible
> antenna. In collaboration with electrical engineer Gianluca Lazzi--then
> at NC State, now chair of the department of electrical and computer
> engineering at the University of Utah--Dickey and his students used the
> alloy and a common flexible polymer called polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)
> to make a simple dipole antenna--essentially a straight rod, like the
> old-fashioned "bunny ear" antennas used for analog TV.
>
> The researchers poured liquid PDMS into a mold that left it with a
> single internal channel once cured. They then injected the liquid
> gallium-indium mixture into the channel and sealed it. "It's all pretty
> straightforward," Dickey says.
>
> Researchers at Lazzi's lab tested the antenna's performance and found
> that they could create an electrical contact with the device simply by
> jabbing a wire into the liquid, eliminating the need for solder. In the
> lab, the antenna radiated over a broad frequency range at about 90
> percent efficiency--equivalent to the efficiency of a similar antenna
> made of copper. "That's the first thing we were surprised by," says
> Lazzi. The antenna also remained functional while the engineers bent,
> twisted, and folded it in half; they even stretched it an additional 40
> percent beyond its normal length. When the stress was released, the PDMS
> snapped back to its original shape.
>
> URL
> <http://www.technologyreview.com/printer_friendly_article.aspx?id=24069&channel=computing§ion=>
>
> 73,
> Steve
> NN4X
> EL98jh
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 09:13:09 -0500
> From: "Tommy" <aldermant@windstream.net>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Taper element sections
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <000e01ca7810$924a8e90$b6dfabb0$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Yes, I am a newbie! When assembling a yagi, is it customary (or correct) to
> apply Penetrox A to tapered element joints? Or does it really matter?
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Tom - W4BQF
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 08:32:24 -0600
> From: "Dubovsky, George" <George.Dubovsky@andrew.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Taper element sections
> To: Tommy <aldermant@windstream.net>, "towertalk@contesting.com"
> <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Message-ID:
> <55D474137AF1C541A021F8D73F85CF5D3ECB7F203F@ACDCE7MB3.commscope.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Yes, it is good practice. A thin layer is all that is required; just
> about as little as you can smear on. I use the stuff sold at Lowes
> and other electrical distributors for bolted aluminum connections. I
> think it's called Noalox, and you can get a lifetime supply for a
> few bucks.
>
> 73,
>
> geo - n4ua
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Tommy
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 9:13 AM
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Taper element sections
>
> Yes, I am a newbie! When assembling a yagi, is it customary (or correct) to
> apply Penetrox A to tapered element joints? Or does it really matter?
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Tom - W4BQF
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 10:39:18 -0500
> From: "Gene Fuller" <w2lu@rochester.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Taper element sections
> To: "Tommy" <aldermant@windstream.net>, <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <001b01ca781c$9b524d00$6701a8c0@FamilyRoom>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Hi Tom -
>
> I would highly recommend the use of Penetrox (or similat). I've used it for
> several decades and find that it seems to hold up forever. Besides the
> conductivity issue, close fits in the tubing can become difficult to take
> apart with a few years of aluminum oxide buildup. Clean with steel wool
> until bright and shiny, then apply a thin coat of the penetrox. Also
> recommended for any electrical/RF connedtions e.g feeding the driven
> element, if you have a tribander, inside the traps, and center pin and shell
> threads on coas connectors.
>
> Gene / W2LU
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tommy" <aldermant@windstream.net>
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 9:13 AM
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Taper element sections
>
>
>> Yes, I am a newbie! When assembling a yagi, is it customary (or correct)
>> to
>> apply Penetrox A to tapered element joints? Or does it really matter?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tom - W4BQF
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 11:14:07 -0500
> From: "Gene Smar" <ersmar@verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Taper element sections
> To: "Gene Fuller" <w2lu@rochester.rr.com>, "Tommy"
> <aldermant@windstream.net>, <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <E35010F21BC74CCEBF1FEE35F2FF65EC@GenePC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
> reply-type=original
>
> Tom:
>
> I agree with Gene (a sturdy name, BTW) in that you ought to use
> Penetrox or similar material when joining the various taper sections.
> However, let me add a bit to it:
>
> o Use Scotchbrite pads and not steel wool to clean the surfaces. The
> steel wool will leave bits of - steel - on the aluminum surface which could
> corrode (dissimlar metals in contact) over the years and reduce the
> conductivity of the joint.
>
> o Don't lather the Penetrox on the joint. Use one Scotchbrite pad to
> clean the surfaces and another clean pad to apply a thin coating onto the
> materials. Once you assemble the joints there should be no oozing of
> Penetrox from within. If there is, wipe it off and use the second
> Scotchbrite pad again, this time without adding more Penetrox.
>
> 73 de
> Gene Smar AD3F
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gene Fuller" <w2lu@rochester.rr.com>
> To: "Tommy" <aldermant@windstream.net>; <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 10:39 AM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Taper element sections
>
>
>> Hi Tom -
>>
>> I would highly recommend the use of Penetrox (or similat). I've used it
>> for
>> several decades and find that it seems to hold up forever. Besides the
>> conductivity issue, close fits in the tubing can become difficult to take
>> apart with a few years of aluminum oxide buildup. Clean with steel wool
>> until bright and shiny, then apply a thin coat of the penetrox. Also
>> recommended for any electrical/RF connedtions e.g feeding the driven
>> element, if you have a tribander, inside the traps, and center pin and
>> shell
>> threads on coas connectors.
>>
>> Gene / W2LU
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tommy" <aldermant@windstream.net>
>> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 9:13 AM
>> Subject: [TowerTalk] Taper element sections
>>
>>
>>> Yes, I am a newbie! When assembling a yagi, is it customary (or correct)
>>> to
>>> apply Penetrox A to tapered element joints? Or does it really matter?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Tom - W4BQF
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> TowerTalk mailing list
>>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 12:26:26 -0500
> From: N4NW <n4nw@n4nw.org>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Looking for Diawa Rotor, or parts
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <20091208172628.EB6C21B60697@dayton.contesting.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> I am rebuilding a Daiwa MultiTorgue Rotatator model MR-750 (aka
> MR-750E/PE or MR-300E. Specifically I am looking for motors and
> associated assemblies.
>
> Please communicate what you may have, your asking price, where it
> would be shipped from and approximate weight of any items to be shipped.
>
> The MultiTorque Daiwa rotator was was manufactured in the late
> `70s,early `80s and could be configured with up to 4 24vac motor
> units. I have heard that although Diawa no longer makes the rotor or
> motors that there may be an after market motor supplier -- anyone
> heard of this or who?
>
> 73's
> Tom, N4NW
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 11:15:34 -0700
> From: "pfizenmayer" <pfizenmayer2@q.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Taper element sections/penetrox/cleaning
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP55C1E452D952961E7309639A8F0@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> One other hint (having rebuilt a KT34 that was up for 27 years) you can find
> "tubing brushes " in stainless steel that will fit the ID of the tube being
> telescoped into and it does a good job of cleaning that up.They have some
> that can be chucked in a drill and others that are manual.(You twist them -
> NOT push in and out !!!!) I also used Scotch brite on a wooden stick ala a
> rifle bore cleaner after I did the tubing brush.
>
> I can tell you that in AZ of you leave some Penetrox at the junction , in
> about two days you will pick up enough dust/pollen/whatever to make a mess.
>
> FWIW -- Hank K7HP
>
>
> ns.
>> However, let me add a bit to it:
>>
>> o Use Scotchbrite pads and not steel wool to clean the surfaces. The
>> steel wool will leave bits of - steel - on the aluminum surface which
>> could
>> corrode (dissimlar metals in contact) over the years and reduce the
>> conductivity of the joint.
>>
>> o Don't lather the Penetrox on the joint. Use one Scotchbrite pad to
>> clean the surfaces and another clean pad to apply a thin coating onto the
>> materials. Once you assemble the joints there should be no oozing of
>> Penetrox from within. If there is, wipe it off and use the second
>> Scotchbrite pad again, this time without adding more Penetrox.
>>
>> 73 de
>> Gene Smar AD3F
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
> End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 84, Issue 11
> *****************************************
>
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