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Re: [TowerTalk] Coax soldering

To: <TexasRF@aol.com>, <richard@karlquist.com>, <W1JCW@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Coax soldering
From: "Pete Stark K4OM" <pstark@suddenlink.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 18:37:59 -0400
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
If only there were a device for connecting a BALanced device to an UNbalanced 
device. We could use such a device for this problem.

Pete K4OM
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: TexasRF@aol.com 
  To: pstark@suddenlink.net ; richard@karlquist.com ; W1JCW@hotmail.com 
  Cc: towertalk@contesting.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 6:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Coax soldering


  Pete, the problem is there are no instructions for connecting coax to open 
wire.We were talking about fishing the center conductor through the braid to do 
the job. No connector involved at all in this case.

  73,
  Gerald K5GW



  In a message dated 10/21/2009 5:16:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time, 
pstark@suddenlink.net writes:
    I have followed the mfg instructions to the letter for almost 50 years as a 
    ham and 31 in broadcast tv and radio.  Very few problems with solder or 
    crimp connectors.  When I did have a problem, it was because I didn't 
follow 
    instructions. Directions for connectors are in the handbook.  Fishing the 
    braid thru the holes is loony.  Need heat?  Use one of the mini-torches. 
    Use flux and a little vise.


    It is vital that instructions be followed on heliax type cable. To the 
    letter.

    Pete K4OM



    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: <TexasRF@aol.com>
    To: <richard@karlquist.com>; <W1JCW@hotmail.com>
    Cc: <towertalk@contesting.com>
    Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 6:01 PM
    Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Coax soldering


    > Rick has the answer. Fishing the center conductor through the opening in
    > the shield is easier if you provide a few inches of extra length and push 
    > the
    > shield up the coax so it increases diameter a bit.
    >
    > The crimp terminals are ok but I personally would solder them to the coax
    > after crimping for long term reliability. If you use ring terminals, they
    > can be  bent with long nose pliers to fit around the open wire conductors 
    > and
    > then  soldered to the open wire conductors.
    >
    > 73,
    > Gerald K5GW
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > In a message dated 10/21/2009 4:33:27 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
    > richard@karlquist.com writes:
    >
    > W1JCW  wrote:
    >>
    >> Hi guys -
    >>
    >> What is your preferred way to  solder an open wire feeder on say RG8 or
    >> RG213 ?
    >>
    >> I  know some cut the brand down the middle, solder it at the base and
    > work
    >> their way to the tip.
    >> Some twist it then solder or  flatting it.
    >>
    >> I am looking to try something  new.
    >>
    >> Suggestions ?
    >>
    >> 73-
    >> W1JCW
    >>  John
    >
    >
    > To answer the original question about lead dress on the  coax:
    >
    > "Something new" (to you) is to use tweezers to displace the  braid
    > near the "base" (ie away from the end) such that a hole is  formed
    > in the braid.  This is done without cutting.  Then,  needlenose
    > pliers are used to grab the dielectric and yank it through  the
    > hole.  Sounds tricky, but I've done it dozens of times.  For  smaller
    > coax (up to RG58) they have a tool called a "lead extractor"  that
    > makes this easier.   See:
    >
    > http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-group.aspx?id=723
    >
    > This  tool is too small for RG8, but gives you the idea of what you
    > want to do by  hand.
    >
    > The other thing to do is install crimp terminals on the  braid
    > and center conductor so that you are not soldering to the  coax.
    >
    > Rick  N6RK
    >
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