K1TTT wrote:
> A carbide tipped blade in a power saw works just fine, the more teeth the
> better the cut. Be sure to use a dust catcher or do it outside and stand
> upwind.
>
And don't forget a respirator anyway.
73
Roger (K8RI)
>
> David Robbins K1TTT
> e-mail: mailto:k1ttt@arrl.net
> web: http://www.k1ttt.net
> AR-Cluster node: 145.69MHz or telnet://dxc.k1ttt.net
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: jimlux [mailto:jimlux@earthlink.net]
>> Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 21:22
>> To: n8de@thepoint.net
>> Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Insulators
>>
>> n8de@thepoint.net wrote:
>>
>>> FYI:
>>>
>>> I discovered a new source for insulator material that I will be using
>>> on my 80m tower verticals.
>>>
>>> At the local 'feed store', I found 1+1/4" fiberglass ROD with a few
>>> small pre-drilled holes ... it's designed to be used as an electric
>>> fence post. The rod is VERY STRONG and should hold up quite well.
>>>
>>> The cost for a 6' rod is about $6 .... quite inexpensive. Cutting it
>>> into 6+" lengths is quite easy.
>>>
>> I used to use a lot of structural fiberglass in various forms. Whatever
>> you cut or drill with will get dull very quickly when working with glass
>> composites.. The glass is quite hard (harder than the steel in your
>> cutting blades).
>>
>> If you have a diamond grit blade that works real well (like a tile saw).
>> A carbide toothed blade works fairly well, too. An abrasive cutter
>> also works, but is messy, melts the plastic matrix, and makes dust to
>> boot (which as was pointed out, is nasty stuff).
>>
>> Don't contemplate taking a 6 foot rod and hacking it into 6"
>> insulators.. the rod might be cheap, but the sharpening costs or new
>> blades won't be.
>>
>> I haven't tried it, but cutting it with a shear, axe, or tree branch
>> loppers might actually be a better strategy, since it would tend to
>> "cleave" the glass fibers, and it's easier to sharpen the blade when it
>> gets dull.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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