trappaport@austin.rr.com wrote:
> To feed my Force 12 HF yagis, I plan to wind my own coax baluns (8 turns of
> coax, 8" diameter - sound reasonable?), and would like to simply spilt the
> LMR400 coax feedline, with the ground braid going to one side of the dipole
> element, and the center conductor to the other.
>
Were it me...and it's not...I'd use coax connectors. Either one of those
dipole center insulators with the connector molded in, or a connector on
the LMR400 into a chassis connector. Use a large ring terminal on the
outside of a round chassis connector one a smaller one screwed to the
rectangular ones with 4 screw holes. Flood the coax connectors with DC4
or 5 compound, slip flooded heat shrink over the coax, screw the coax
onto the chassis connector and then liberally coat the open end of the
chassis connector with liquid electrical tape. Then (after the liquid
tape dries (give it 24 hours on a nice dry period) Then slide the
flooded heat shrink over the connectors and about a half inch beyond the
open end of the chassis connector (which is why I prefer the round
connector. Shrink tubing onto connectors and coax while dressing the
leads out the end. Fill the open end of the tube with hot melt glue.
Then after it cools give the end several coats of liquid electrical
tape. Let the tape dry between coatings. I use the Red goop for these
areas as it shows from the ground and can be inspected using binoculars
or a telescope. Missing Red tape is usually quite visible.
As for the balun I'd prefer one using a binocular core for plenty of
isolation such as the one sold by DX engineering.
73
Roger (K8RI)
> I am wondering what is the best way to **waterproof** the split coax. Is
> there some type of goop or sealant that has excellent waterproofing and UV
> resistance, that I can use to keep water from seeping into the coax? I would
> welcome any thoughts and sources....neither Home Depot or Lowes had anything
> that seemed like it would work.
> 73 and thanks. Ted N9NB (trappaport@austin.rr.com)
>
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