I use 3m 2155 tape covered with a couple wraps of 33. Never get any
water in my connections. The 2155 is a self fusing rubber splicing tape,
and the 33 is a PVC regular electrical tape. Works great, easy to apply,
easy to remove.
I've found that Coax-Seal is messy and nasties up connectors, and if you
wrap the connector first, you are then reliant on THAT layer for
protection. With my method, the self fusing tape only seals to itself,
so it's watertight and right on the connector where it needs to be.
Scotch-Kote works good where you have lug connections, I wouldn't dare
put it on a barrel connector.
The before mentioned method of hotmelt glue and heat shrink.... how easy
is that to get off? I have a feeling it involves more than running a
knife down the side and peeling it off very easily (The tape I use for
the base layer has no adhesive on it, so it comes off very easy)
73!
-Adam
WJ4X
CRAIG CLARK wrote:
> Weatherproofing PL259 can be accomplished by various methods with commonly
> available products.
>
>
>
> We sell flooded heat shrink (HS) tubing for $5 for a 4 length ' and I use
> this product when requested by the customer. I would not recommend regular
> HS tubing as Roger stated, if water gets in, it will be retained and could
> compromise the connection.
>
>
>
> In my station, the HS tubing is only part of a comprehensive method of
> waterproofing antenna connections. After the connector is installed at the
> antenna, I use two wraps of 3M #33 tape run in different directions. Then I
> have used a combination (either/or) Amp's cold fusion tape, liquid tape,
> Coax seal or (Steve will disagree with me on this) Scotch-kote. The
> combination of tape and an outer coating should give you years of trouble
> free service.
>
>
>
> 73 Craig
>
>
>
> Craig Clark K1QX
> Radioware
> PO Box 209
> Rindge NH 03461
> 603 899 6957
>
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>
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