When I have had to pull a rotor like that I will run rope from each leg
around the mast and tie very tightly... something like 2 loops around the
leg and mast, tie off, then wrap back around the 2 loops to pull them in on
themselves, kind of like how a hangman's noose is wrapped up. If done
properly it makes almost a solid rope spacer. Done in all 3 directions with
decent rope it makes a very solid temporary support. If you don't think the
rope itself is enough, cut a piece of 2x2 or even angle iron that will just
fit between the leg and mast, put that inside the loops and then lash it in
place with the hangman's wraps.
David Robbins K1TTT
e-mail: mailto:k1ttt@arrl.net
web: http://www.k1ttt.net
AR-Cluster node: 145.69MHz or telnet://dxc.k1ttt.net
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Selbrede, K6ZZ [mailto:k6zz@ccis.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 06:28
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Temporary Mast Guide
>
> Folks,
>
> Looking for suggestions on how best to support a 27' x 3/8"
> wall crome molly mast while lowering it into the tower to
> access the antennas at the top. Unfortunately, this
> installation doesn't include a lower mast plate to keep the
> mast centered while raising and lowering the mast. My
> primary concern is keeping the mast from tipping after I
> pull the rotator. With 6' in the tower and 21' out of the
> top, as soon as the mast is pulled out of the rotator it
> will want to tip due to the antennas at the top of the mast.
>
> My first inclination is to fabricate a temporary support out
> of unistrut or angle iron and attach it above the rotator.
> The mast alone weighs 200lbs and the antennas add another
> 100lbs so it needs to be fairly sturdy and still allow for
> unrestricted movement of the mast as it is lowered.
>
> Fortunately this is on a crankup so it doesn't need to be
> done at nose-bleed heights. When it goes back up I may add
> a lower "mast anchor plate" to aid in pulling rotators for
> service, etc.
>
> 73, Bob K6ZZ
>
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>
>
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