Oops--sorry I missed the RFU-507-SI part number in your post.
Here is one thing I found.
If you use dikes(sp?) to cut the cable/center conductor, it flares out the
center strands a little, makes it real hard to feed it through the center
pin (UHF).
I use one of those cutters for cutting pvc pipe. They sell them at the big
box stores. I cut the coax with it first, it makes a real nice flush cut.
Then with a utility knife, trim back the jacket, shield, and center
insulation from the center conductor. The center pin fits every time done
that way. The cutter works better with the bury-flex because it has a
harder outer jacket, it works with the 9913, but not as easy.
John wa5zup
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of wa5zup
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 3:22 PM
To: 'Tower'
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] crimp connectors for Bury-Flex
I have the exact same crimper.
I have crimped Bury-Flex and 9913F7. 9913F7 is real close to the same thing
as the Bury-Flex (stranded center conductor), has a different type of outer
jacket.
You did not say what type of connector you are using?
You have to be careful not to distort the center conductor at all when you
strip it, or the pin will not fit easy. But it does fit.
For UHF connectors (RFI #RFU-507-SI), it is best to solder the center pin,
and just crimp the shield with the .429 die.
For N connectors (RFI #RFN-1006-3I), crimp both the center pin (.128) and
the shield (.429). Makes a great connection, better than soldering.
I use nothing but N connectors outside. They are all crimped.
John wa5zup
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Dick Green WC1M
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 2:38 PM
To: 'Steve Maki'
Cc: Tower
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] crimp connectors for Bury-Flex
Thanls for the response, Steve. I'm certainly leaning towards soldering.
I meant to point out in my original post that the RF Parts catalog entry for
the RFA-4005-2 die says:
The .128" cavity crimps the center pin on Belden 9913 cable. (In italics)
This is the only die set with a .128" cavity for 9913 pins.
I took this to apply to other compatible cables, which is why I tried to
crimp the center pin on the Bury-Flex. But maybe the .128" cavity is only
for solid center conductor Belden 9913 cable. Does anyone know? For that
matter, does anyone know what the .100" cavity is for?
73, Dick WC1M
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Maki [mailto:steve@oakcom.com]
> Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 4:12 PM
> To: wc1m@msn.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] crimp connectors for Bury-Flex
>
> Dick,
>
> All of the "crimp" connectors I've used (for LMR-400, etc.) had crimp
> rings for the shield but were meant for soldering the center
> conductor.
> I don't think I'd trust a crimped center conductor for precisely the
> reasons that you outlined...
>
> Steve K8LX
>
> Dick Green WC1M wrote:
> > I'd like to hear from anyone who has successfully used crimp
> connectors on
> > Davis Bury-Flex coax cable. I need to know the part number of the
> connectors
> > and the technique used.
> >
> >
> >
> > I recently bought an RFA-4005 crimp tool & die set, which includes a
> die for
> > Belden 9913, LMR-400, etc. I also bought some RFU-507-SI crimp
> connectors,
> > which are rated for the same cables. I figured the size would be
> correct for
> > Bury-Flex, too. Not quite.
> >
> >
> >
> > My first attempt was on an old scrap of 9913F, Belden's "ultra-flex"
> variant
> > of 9913. I found that the center conductor was slightly too large to
> fit
> > into the connector. I had to remove a couple of strands to make it
> fit. OK,
> > it's not the same as 9913 and I don't use 9913F anyway.
> >
> >
> >
> > Next, I tried Bury-Flex. This time, the center conductor fit easily
> into the
> > connector -- a little too easily. I found that when I crimped the
> tip of the
> > center pin (the 1/8" section that's swaged smaller than the rest of
> the
> > pin), I could pull the cable out of the connector with light-to-
> moderate
> > force (this is before crimping the ferrule over the braid.) This
> doesn't
> > give me confidence that the joint will hold up to mechanical stress
> and
> > long-term oxidation.
> >
> >
> >
> > However, if I crimp the base of the center pin just behind the 1/8"
> swaged
> > section, the center conductor is held very tightly -- I can't pull
> it out.
> > The downside of this is that the center pin doesn't fit snuggly in
> an SO-239
> > connector -- the fit is too loose. The problem is that the uncrimped
> bottom
> > of the pin doesn't engage the hole in the female connector because
> the hole
> > is recessed and flared.
> >
> >
> >
> > I think there are three solutions:
> >
> >
> >
> > 1) Crimp the 1/8" swaged section and solder the center conductor to
> the pin.
> >
> >
> >
> > 2) Crimp the 1/8" swaged section and crimp the very base of the
> center pin,
> > too. This leaves a little over 1/8" uncrimped in the middle of the
> pin,
> > which slips far enough into the hole to fit snuggly.
> >
> >
> >
> > 3) Do both 1 and 2.
> >
> >
> >
> > If anyone has solved this problem, I'd like to hear how.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks & 73,
> >
> > Dick WC1M
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > TowerTalk mailing list
> > TowerTalk@contesting.com
> > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
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