Wow. That is so cool. I didn't have the laptop over the weekend, so I just
opened this.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
--- On Sun, 6/29/08, towertalk-request@contesting.com
<towertalk-request@contesting.com> wrote:
From: towertalk-request@contesting.com <towertalk-request@contesting.com>
Subject: TowerTalk Digest, Vol 66, Issue 89
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Date: Sunday, June 29, 2008, 12:00 PM
Send TowerTalk mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of TowerTalk digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Rohn 25 Insulated Base (K5RC)
2. Re: Guy Tension adjustment (K7LXC@aol.com)
3. Re: Rohn 25 Insulated Base (Richards)
4. Re: Rohn 25 Insulated Base (Bob Maser)
5. Re: US Tower RMC-1000 control box question (Dick Green WC1M)
6. Long shaft to base mounted rotator (Roger (K8RI))
7. patching up rust on a tower? (Gary Slagel)
8. Re: patching up rust on a tower? (Phil Snyder)
9. Re: patching up rust on a tower? (EL34GUY@aol.com)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 10:04:53 -0700
From: "K5RC" <tom@k5rc.cc>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Rohn 25 Insulated Base
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <12873488D2E64C5AB5E71E22640933D0@OFFICE>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
I am currently embroiled in a property-line dispute with a neighbor and I am
going to literally pick up and move the 110' tall 160M tower. I currently
have the older 5' Rohn 25 insulated base with the big-honkin ceramic
insulators. Apparently it is no longer made and was replaced by the 25RG
which is $1,700. Does anyone have a spare insulated base to sell or even
just one piece of the tower with the bolt plates?
Tom Taormina, K5RC
Virginia City NV
Home of W7RN and K7RC
http://k5rc.cc FOC 1760
"Communication is the problem to the answer" - 10cc
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 13:09:57 EDT
From: K7LXC@aol.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Guy Tension adjustment
To: towertalk@contesting.com, n5phtgs@gmail.com
Message-ID: <d0e.2f4d3906.3597ca65@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
In a message dated 6/27/2008 9:02:33 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
towertalk-request@contesting.com writes:
> My tower info and my measurements. I am using a LOOS #90 guage.
Tower is 45G - 80 feet tall. It has 2 sets of 3 guys. They are different
lengths and if that matters I could dig up the specs on the distances.
> My measurements:
20 degrees set: Upper: 280 lbs Lower: 340 lbs
140 degree set: Upper: 400 lbs Lower: 480 lbs
260 degree set: Upper: 300 lbs Lower: 340 lbs
> The 260 degree set is the longest of the 3 sets of guys
and the 150 degree set is the shortest with the 20 degree
set in between the other two (in terms of lengths).
> All of my guys are the same: the first 15 feet or so
is 1/4 inch EHS and the rest is Phillystrand. Does that
alter the suggested tension?
No. The tension is the same regardless of what's inline with the
guywire.
You didn't say how long the guys were but indicated that they were
different lengths. This will have some influence on the tension but that's
a math
exercise I'm not qualified to comment on. (There was an article in CQ some
years ago that addressed this problem.)
All of the guys should be tensioned the same; that is, 600# for 1/4"
EHS. (And the HPTG6000.)
I haven't tested the Loos Model 90 for accuracy but the other versions
are quite accurate so I imagine it's pretty good too.
Cheers & GL,
Steve K7LXC
TOWER TECH
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 21:34:20 -0400
From: Richards <jruing@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rohn 25 Insulated Base
To: K5RC <tom@k5rc.cc>
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <4866E69C.6050908@ameritech.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Oh.... sorry it sounds like you are gonna lose that war.
=============== K8JHR ================
K5RC wrote:
> I am currently embroiled in a property-line dispute with a neighbor and I
am
> going to literally pick up and move the 110' tall 160M tower.
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 21:52:27 -0400
From: "Bob Maser" <bmaser@tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rohn 25 Insulated Base
To: "K5RC" <tom@k5rc.cc>, <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <07cf01c8d98a$c923cce0$0300a8c0@Main>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Instead of trying to find a duplicate of what you have, why not use of those
insulated pier pins like the broadcast stations use? I had one but sold it
last year to a ham in the NE. I see that there many threads on the TT
archives. An alternate course of action is to dig around your existing
concrete base which can't be more than a yard of concrete, and have it
busted apart or move the whole thing over to the new hole.
Bob Maser W6TR
----- Original Message -----
From: "K5RC" <tom@k5rc.cc>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 1:04 PM
Subject: [TowerTalk] Rohn 25 Insulated Base
>I am currently embroiled in a property-line dispute with a neighbor and I
>am
> going to literally pick up and move the 110' tall 160M tower. I
currently
> have the older 5' Rohn 25 insulated base with the big-honkin ceramic
> insulators. Apparently it is no longer made and was replaced by the 25RG
> which is $1,700. Does anyone have a spare insulated base to sell or even
> just one piece of the tower with the bolt plates?
>
>
>
> Tom Taormina, K5RC
>
> Virginia City NV
>
> Home of W7RN and K7RC
>
> http://k5rc.cc FOC 1760
>
> "Communication is the problem to the answer" - 10cc
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 02:34:44 -0400
From: "Dick Green WC1M" <wc1m@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] US Tower RMC-1000 control box question
To: "'Scott McClements'"
<kc2pih@gmail.com>, "'Towertalk Reflector'"
<towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <BAY133-DAV53FBCCC16D6604725F7EE8D9C0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Scott,
In the stock version of the RMC-1000, the control box has to be connected in
order for the "local" switch on the RMC-1000 to work. The control box
POWER
switch must be flipped on, which energizes a 110VAC relay in the RMC-1000
that connects AC to the rest of the circuitry. In addition, the control box
"REMOTE/LOCAL" switch has to be set to LOCAL to enable the switch on
the
RMC-1000 housing. I don't remember offhand whether another relay in the
RMC-1000 is involved.
It's certainly possible to modify the RMC-1000 to eliminate the control
box,
but you would have to add a couple of switches to duplicate the POWER and
REMOTE/LOCAL switches. These would have to be mounted inside the RMC-1000,
or you would have to drill holes in the housing and use weatherproof
switches like the one that's on the housing now.
Alternatively, you could get away without the switches by hard-wiring the
circuit so the AC relay is always tripped and the local switch is always
enabled.
Either approach, however, would allow anyone passing by to activate the
tower motor. Probably not a good idea.
A better alternative would be to build a small weatherproof enclosure next
to the tower, or even mounted to the RMC-1000, and put the remote control
box in there. You should put a lock on the enclosure.
I operate my MA-770MDP remotely, but I was not happy with the design of the
remote control feature. The control lines are 110VAC, which technically
means they should be run in a conduit separate from all other control wires
and coax. I didn't realize how the system worked until I had already pulled
the control cable through 265' of conduit along with several other
low-voltage control lines.
Rather than live with a an unsafe situation, and a building code violation,
I build a simple 12VDC relay board to exactly duplicate the action of the
remote control box switches. I mounted it inside the RMC-1000 and built a
12VDC control box which is about 1/6 the size of the AC control box. It has
the same set of switches as the original box: power, raising/lowering, and
local/remote. These simply switch 12VAC relays in the RMC-1000, which in
turn switch 110VAC to the big stock relays in the RMC-1000. The status light
voltages from the RMC-1000 activate 110VAC relays on the board I added to
the RMC-1000. Those relays switch 12VDC to LEDs mounted in my low-voltage
control box.
73, Dick WC1M
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott McClements [mailto:kc2pih@gmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 9:36 PM
> To: Towertalk Reflector
> Subject: [TowerTalk] US Tower RMC-1000 control box question
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am just starting to do some refurb on a used 1992 US Tower HDX572 I
> bought. It has the RMC-1000 remote option. I The tower is on stands
> right now. I took off the drive belt and without any remote control
> box hooked up, I plugged the tower into AC locally at the tower. I
> flipped the switch to both raise and lower the tower and the motor
> didn't start up or even make a sound. I have a few documents from
> various about the RMC-1000 circuit in both the remote control box and
> in the local control box. I started to draw up a schematic for myself
> too. I am running a heavy extension cord directly to my service
> entrance on a 20 AMP circuit.
>
> Now a few questions. Does the remote box need to be hooked up to run
> the local controls? If so, can I bypass that, because I don't plan on
> using the remote option. If it should have worked as, where should I
> start on this. I did some basic checks with a volt meter, power is
> getting to the terminals. I checked the 20 AMP fuse while it was in
> the holder. It appears ok, but maybe I should pull it out of the
> holder. I don't know what to look for next.
>
> Here is a picture of the 1992 vintage innards :
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/mcclements/HDX572/photo#520478827723580865
> 8
>
> Any and all suggestions appreciated.
>
> -Scott, WU2X
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 03:38:11 -0400
From: "Roger (K8RI)" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Long shaft to base mounted rotator
To: Tower Talk <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <48673BE3.60705@tm.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I think we may have beat this subject to death last year, but I'm having
trouble finding it for reference.
I was looking at a tower a nearby ham is getting ready to install. He
has built a very nice, sturdy base which holds the PST-71 and the tower
mounts on top of that base. My concern is the shaft that runs between
the rotator and the antenna some 80 feet above it. The shaft is 2"
steel tube with an 1/8" wall while the antenna is one of the big multi
band yagis. I don't remember the make but think the model ends in a
56. The thing weighs over 200#. I think that is a lot of inertia for
that 80' of tubing to handle and that tubing may end up acting like a
large spring/torsion bar. It just doesn't look adequate to me.
Any thoughts?
Roger (K8RI - ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R (World's oldest Debonair)
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 06:48:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Slagel <gdslagel@yahoo.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] patching up rust on a tower?
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <324828.96627.qm@web52609.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hi all,
?
I'm looking at buying a used Hygain HG70d crankup tower.... about 20 years
old but the cables have been replaced and looks in good shape from the pictures
except for some rust in the areas where the?sections come together and rub.?
I'm wondering what the best way to protect that rust area is to insure I
get another 20 or so years out of it!? Is there any product out there to
replace that 'galvanization'?? Doesn't look bad... looks like a
couple 18" long stripes of rust about an inch or so wide.
Thanks for any advice!
Gary Slagel/N0SXX
Lakewood, CO
http://marina.fortunecity.com/sanpedro/351
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 08:56:27 -0500
From: Phil Snyder <n9lah@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] patching up rust on a tower?
To: gdslagel@yahoo.com
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <4867948B.5080707@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Gary, Please share any responses with the list. I am looking at my own
used tower and although it is already up I am considering "sprucing"
it
up this year.
Phil
N9LAH
Gary Slagel wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm looking at buying a used Hygain HG70d crankup tower.... about 20
years old but the cables have been replaced and looks in good shape from the
pictures except for some rust in the areas where the sections come together and
rub. I'm wondering what the best way to protect that rust area is to insure
I get another 20 or so years out of it! Is there any product out there to
replace that 'galvanization'? Doesn't look bad... looks like a
couple 18" long stripes of rust about an inch or so wide.
>
> Thanks for any advice!
>
> Gary Slagel/N0SXX
> Lakewood, CO
> http://marina.fortunecity.com/sanpedro/351
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 8.0.101 / Virus Database: 270.4.3/1524 - Release Date: 6/28/2008
7:42 PM
>
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 10:55:39 EDT
From: EL34GUY@aol.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] patching up rust on a tower?
To: gdslagel@yahoo.com, towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <cf7.3581994b.3598fc6b@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
I would steel wool or wire brush off the rust and cold galvanize it, about
the best if its already up.
73
Mark
W0NCL
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
------------------------------
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End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 66, Issue 89
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