Check http://www.qsl.net/n1lo for the latest update
The existence, accuracy, content and organization of any section may change
at any time as new discoveries, understandings, and concepts arise. I add
new sections whenever appropriate.
By Mark D. Lowell, N1LO. First posted in November 1998
This document is a series of notes that I have made concerning guyed towers
and installation that started after reading and digesting the message
archives of the TowerTalk forum sponsored by the folks at
www.contesting.com. The archive is located at:
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/Towertalk
Mr. Steve Morris, K7LXC, a professional tower installer and Ham, is the
originator and moderator of this most valuable resource. This email forum
has thousands of members from all walks of life who freely share their
knowledge and experiences. Steve does an excellent job of moderating,
keeping discussions on-topic, controlling flaming, and even banning
troublemakers when necessary. Take a bow, Steve.
I have also combined ideas from other readings and personal experiences as
well. I have paraphrased some subjects after reading the general consensus
of many messages. In other cases, the originators of these messages have
already addressed the topic in the most eloquent form, and I have simply
copied their messages here.
I have concentrated mainly on subjects relating to standard, Rohn, guyed
towers, and not crankup or self-supporting types. I most whole-heartedly
agree with an opinion once expressed on the TowerTalk reflector: "There is
nothing stronger, safer, or more cost effective than a good guyed tower."
***WARNING***
Tower climbing can be hazardous to your health! You can hurt yourself and
others very easily while engaging in climbing and rigging. The information
here is provided on an as-is basis and, naturally, I can assume no
responsibility for your safety, or how you interpret or implement the
techniques I have described here. Do not perform a procedure that you are
not comfortable with. Think ahead, get familiar with all of your materials,
and teach the people assisting you about the methods and dangers. Again, in
all matters, *you* are the one who is the most in control of your own
safety. A complete understanding of both the risks you take, and the
solutions available to you, are the best tools at your disposal. I bid you
safe journeys.
***WARNING***
This is a work in progress, growing as I gather information from individual
postings by experienced professionals and amateurs in many walks of life,
from all over the globe, and from my own personal experiences. I present it
for personal use and benefit of all who read it and find something of
value. I have nothing to gain from this except the joy of learning itself,
and the satisfaction of helping others. And, of course, it will help me put
up my own tower!
If this information has helped you, I would enjoy receiving a QSL card or
email from you.
Mark, N1LO - N1LO at Hotmail dot com
Comments, additions, and corrections are welcome.
GUIDES 7
TOWER CONSTRUCTION GUIDES 7
TOWER ENGINEERING GUIDES 7
LIGHTNING PROTECTION AND GROUNDING GUIDES 7
CLIMBING GUIDES 8
PLANNING YOUR TOWER INSTALLATION 8
PLANNING A TOWER NEAR AN AIRPORT 8
GETTING PROFESSIONAL HELP 11
SELECTING THE BASE LOCATION AND ORIENTATION 11
CHOOSING THE CABLE ROUTING AND HOME ENTRY 11
TOWER TYPE SELECTION 11
BRACKET SUPPORTS 12
BASES 12
SELECTING BASE TYPE 12
DIGGING THE HOLE 13
THE RE-BAR CAGE 14
THE CONCRETE 15
CONCRETE DO'S AND DON'TS 16
CONCRETE STRENGTH 17
MAST AND BOOM MATERIAL SELECTION 17
PROPERTIES OF MATERIALS 17
STRENGTH 17
STIFFNESS AND ELASTICITY 21
THRUST BEARINGS 24
ANCHORS 25
SOIL MECHANICS PRIMER 25
ANCHOR TYPES 26
SCREW ANCHORS AND STRENGTHS 26
INSTALLATION OF SCREW ANCHORS 27
GUY CABLES 27
GUY CABLES ACT LIKE SPRINGS 27
HOW GUY CABLES STABILIZE YOUR TOWER 28
ORIGIN OF THE 10% PRELOAD RULE 28
EFFECT OF GUY SIZE 28
TYPES 28
USING PREFORMED GUY GRIPS AND THIMBLES 31
BREAKING UP STEEL GUY CABLE RESONANCES WITH INSULATORS 33
TENSIONING 34
GUY TENSION MEASUREMENT 36
USING LOOS BRAND TENSION METERS FOR GUYS 36
CHECKING GUY TENSION BY COUNTING OSCILLATIONS 38
THERMAL EFFECTS ON GUY TENSION 38
MEASURING TOWER PLUMB 39
TEMPORARY GUYING 39
TEMPORARY GUYS FROM EHS 40
TEMPORARY GUYS USING ROPES 41
REPLACING EXISTING GUY CABLES 41
LIGHTNING ABATEMENT 43
LIGHTNING PROTECTION THEORY 43
HOMEBREW STATIC DISSIPATORS 43
GROUNDING FOR LIGHTNING PROTECTION 44
EXAMPLE TOWER GROUNDING METHOD FOR LIGHTNING PROTECTION 46
GROUNDING GUY CABLES 48
GROUNDING FEEDLINES 49
COMMERCIAL FEEDLINE GROUNDING CLAMPS 50
HOMEBREW FEEDLINE GROUNDING CLAMPS 50
ASSISTING FEEDLINE AND CABLE GROUNDING WITH CHOKE COILS 51
HOMEBREW GROUNDED ENTRANCE PANEL 51
GROUND ROD METAL SELECTION 53
SINKING GROUND RODS 54
IMPROVING GROUND ROD EFFECTIVENESS 55
CLIMBING GEAR 55
CLIMBING BELT 55
SOME THOUGHTS ABOUT FALL ARREST 57
CLIMBING LANYARDS 57
CARABINERS 58
CLIMBING SAFELY WITH HARNESS AND LANYARDS 59
CARRYING TOOLS 60
HOMEBREW TOOL AND PART POUCHES 60
ROPES & KNOTS 60
MAKING YOUR OWN LANYARDS 61
COWTAILS LANYARD 61
POSITIONING LANYARD 62
CORROSION PREVENTION 62
DISSIMILAR METALS AND GALVANIC ACTION 62
CATHODIC PROTECTION 67
PROTECTING ANTENNAS FROM CORROSION 68
PROTECTING THREADED FASTENERS 68
ANTI-SEIZE FOR FASTENERS 68
THREAD LOCKING 70
WATERPROOFING CONNECTIONS 70
ACCESSORY MATERIALS AND SERVICES 72
INSULATING MATERIAL 72
ELECTRICAL TAPE 72
ACCESSORY STEP 72
ROTOR REPAIR 72
FIBERGLASS SPREADER RODS 72
CRIMP-ON PL-259 CONNECTORS 72
PULLEYS 73
TOWER BOLTS 73
TOOL AND PART POUCHES 73
COLD GALVANIZING PAINT 74
ROTATORS 74
SELECTION 74
ROTOR WIRING 75
ROTOR WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION 75
PHYSICAL INSTALLATION TIGHTENING SEQUENCE 75
TROUBLESHOOTING ROTATION PROBLEMS 76
HYGAIN ROTOR PRIMER 77
HYGAIN ROTOR IDENTIFICATION 77
HYGAIN ROTOR LUBRICATION 77
HYGAIN ROTOR INTERNAL WIRING 77
HYGAIN ROTOR TYPICAL ELECTRICAL MEASUREMENTS 78
YAESU ROTOR PROBLEMS 78
ATTACHING COAX AND CONTROL WIRES 80
ROUTING CABLES 80
ATTACHING CABLES TO TOWER 81
FORMING ROTATION LOOPS IN THE COAX 81
MAINTAINING ANTENNA SWITCHBOX RELAYS 82
THRUST BEARINGS 82
ROHN TB3 THRUST BEARING 82
INSPECTING YOUR TOWER 84
INSPECTING NEW TOWER SECTIONS 84
INSPECTING USED TOWER SECTIONS 85
ASSESSING BENDS IN TOWER LEGS 85
CORRECTING MINOR BENDS 85
INSPECTION CHECKLIST FOR GUYED TOWER INSTALLATIONS 86
ASSEMBLING TOWER SECTIONS 89
PRE-ASSEMBLY ON THE GROUND 90
GUY ATTACHMENT POINTS. 90
GUY CABLES 90
TOP SECTION 90
GIN POLES 90
GIN POLE TYPES 90
HOMEBREW GIN POLE MAST 92
GIN POLE ROPE 93
RIGGING THE GIN POLE AND TURNING BLOCK 93
GIN POLE KEEPER LOOP 94
RAISING MASTS 94
CLIMBING MASTS 94
USING A CRANE OR BUCKET TRUCK FOR ACCESS 95
RAISING ANTENNAS 98
CHECKING ANTENNA TUNING BEFORE RAISING 98
TRAMMING 98
REMOVABLE TAG LINES 99
ALIGNING BEAMS 99
MINIMIZING ANTENNA INTERACTION 100
CHILD PROOFING A TOWER/ANTI-CLIMB GUARDS 100
ANTI CLIMB DOCUMENTATION 100
METHODS 100
TOWER STRENGTH INFORMATION 101
CALCULATING WIND LOAD AREA AND WIND LOAD 101
WIND SPEED ZONE 101
CALCULATION METHOD 102
NEWER CALCULATION METHODS 104
ANOTHER TAKE ON EFFECTIVE PROJECTED AREA 106
REFURBISHING USED TOWER 107
TOUCHING UP RUST SPOTS 107
SEPARATING OLD TOWER SECTIONS 109
ADAPTING CATV HARDLINE FOR AMATEUR USE 109
CHOOSING LENGTH 109
HARDLINE CONNECTORS FOR AMATEUR USE 109
WASPS 113
BUILDING YOUR OWN BALUN 113
ATTACHING ELECTRICAL ENCLOSURES TO YOUR TOWER 116
GUIDES
TOWER CONSTRUCTION GUIDES
See the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) page for the TowerTalk reflector
at http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/. This resource is quickly becoming the
internet's Bible on tower construction techniques, and you will also find a
link to the latest version of this document.
TOWER ENGINEERING GUIDES
Rohn's consumer catalog is regarded as the starting point for guyed tower
projects. It contains drawings of pre-engineered solutions for their
products, with outlines of multiple height and guying plans to meet
windload criteria. Copies of the latest Rohn color Amateur catalog are
available online from Rohn.
Steve, K7LXC, of Champion Radio, sells copies of this catalog and other
publications concerning tower erection, such as "The 10 Most Common Tower
Building Mistakes"
Topics of reprints (they're almost free!) available from Champion Radio
include grounding for amateurs, building a one tower station, etc.
De Steve K7LXC:
".On a commercial note, my company - Champion Radio Products, was formed to
provide tools, equipment and resources for amateur tower and antenna
building projects. If you're interested in a catalog, send an SASE to:
Champion Radio Products
16541 Redmond Way #281-C
Redmond, WA 98052
1-888-833-3104
Email: UpTheTower at aol dot com
The commercial tower erection standard is EIA/TIA-222-E. This document
contains all of the currently accepted engineering standards, reference
materials, and equations for the safe design of towers. The -222- spec may
be obtained from Global Engineering Documents, 1-800-854-7179 (for those
who need it).
LIGHTNING PROTECTION AND GROUNDING GUIDES
Anyone interested in understanding lightning protection and grounding
systems should acquire a copy of MIL-HDBK-419A. Some consider this to be
the best single reference source on this subject. This manual used to be
available online free, as an Adobe PDF file at:
http://dodssp.daps.dla.mil/products.htm
Click on the link titled "ASSIST Quick Search"
This is the Department of Defense Single Stock Point for Military
Specifications, Standards, and Related Publications web site.
However, it appears that the distribution is no longer free of charge, and
requires registration to obtain.
The NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) also has a helpful
document, NFPA 780, "Standard for the Installation of Lightning Protection
Systems", which "provides for the protection of people, buildings, special
occupancies, heavy duty stacks, structures containing flammable liquids and
gases, and other entities against lightning damage."
Go to http://www.nfpa.org and enter NFPA 780 in the search window. As of
Oct 2005, the cost was $33.50.
CLIMBING GUIDES
"On Rope", by Padgett & Smith is a truly excellent source of information on
climbing: ropes, knots, gear, techniques. The equipment and techniques
described here adapt very well to tower climbing. The new, second edition
has 380 pages and 700, (repeat: 700!!) drawings. Check it out from your
local library or buy one of your own.
PLANNING YOUR TOWER INSTALLATION
PLANNING A TOWER NEAR AN AIRPORT
TOWER PLANNING AND AIRPORTS
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 00:59:44 -0700
From: Stan or Patricia Griffiths <w7ni@teleport.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Tower planning
Hi Guys,
It sure seems to me like there is a huge amount of misinformation floating
around about towers and airports. Every time I review the rules (Part 17),
I always come up with the same results:
1. Towers higher than 200 feet have to be registered with
the FCC and the FAA must be notified.
2. Towers less than 200 feet but near airports must also
register with the FCC if they fall into one of the
following categories:
A. The slope is 100:1 for airports with at least one runway
longer than 3200 feet for a horizontal distance of 20,000
feet.
B. The slope is 50:1 for airports with the longest runway
shorter than 3200 feet for a horizontal distance of 10,000
feet.
C. The slope is 25:1 for a horizontal distance of 5000 feet
from a heliport.
3. Some of the towers in A,B, and C above may be exempt from FAA
notification (FCC Part 17.14) if they are shielded by "substantial
topographical features". Even these towers must be registered with the FCC
and an explanation given to the FCC if the owner feels they are exempt from
FAA notification.
4. Nowhere in Part 17 of the FCC Rules can I find ANYTHING about "pie
shaped areas from the end of the runway" or anything about towers that are
located off the sides of runways being exempted from the slope rules. It
looks to me like the slopes extend out from all parts of the runway and
in all directions from it.
I have two personal friends who have tall towers near an airport who are in
serious denial about being required to register, notify, or comply with
these rules. Personally, I think they are clearly in violation and are
walking on thin ice. They quote things like "not being in the landing
pattern" and having "tall trees in the area" as reasons they can ignore the
rules. I can't find these exemptions for FCC registration anywhere in the
rules. The tall trees may get one of my friends past the FAA registration
requirement, but the way I read the rules, he still has to register with
the FCC, with an explantaion of why he feels he is exempt from FAA
notification, and let the FCC decide if he must notify the FAA or not.
The fines for violation of these rules run as high as $10,000. I would
really love for someone to point to the exact part of the FCC rules that
allows my friends to enjoy their "exemptions".
Stan w7ni@teleport.com
You can read these rules for yourself at:
http://wireless.fcc.gov/rules.html
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 08:38:45 -0400
From: "Dave Bowker" <dbowker@mail.sjv.net>
Subject: RE: [TowerTalk] Amateur Exemptions
Barry,
The requirement for evaluating compliance is well defined and discussed in
the FCC's OET Bulletins 65, 65A and 65B. Your situation MUST be evaluated
using the OET bulletins as guidance. Multiple transmitter sites are a
complex situation and your digipeater may or may not be categorically
exempted. OET Bulletin 65 is quite helpful (and I would say the first 45
pages are required reading), while 65A and 65B provide supplemental info
that may or may not apply in your specific situation. The bulletins
include tables, worksheets for maintaining records, etc., which will be
quite helpful in your situation.
Here's my recommendation on how to handle this situation and perhaps save
the expense of the tests.
1. Get a copy of OTE Bulletins at:
http://www.fcc.gov/oet/info/documents/bulletins/#65 . I'd suggest printing
65 (general guidelines) and 65B (amateur radio guidelines), (and 65A if
there is an AM/FM or TV transmitter involved at the site).
2. Evaluate your situation using these bulletins (if you are not
experienced in this area, perhaps one of the local hams is, or the site
owner, or you can find a local radio station engineer who would volunteer
to
assist with the correct interpretation of your situation and assist with
evaluation by calculation, if applicable).
3. If you (or another qualified individual) can determine that your
proposed installation is either categorically exempt OR that the evaluation
can be made by calculation relative to existing measured MPE test reports
for that specific site, then I would recommend the following:
a. Meet with the site technical manager or engineer (and your technical
expert) and see if you can reach an agreement on satisfying the compliance
evaluation by categorical exemption or calculation.
b. It may be necessary to perform (a.) above with each of the engineers or
technical representatives for each of the emitters at the site and the site
owner.
This may take quite a bit of time, but it can be done and could save you
the
cost of an actual MPE measurement.
73, Dave, K1FK
Fort Kent, ME PLANNING YOUR TOWER INSTALLATION
GETTING PROFESSIONAL HELP
SELECTING THE BASE LOCATION AND ORIENTATION
CHOOSING THE CABLE ROUTING AND HOME ENTRY
TOWER TYPE SELECTION
For towers up to 40 feet, you can eliminate the expense and work or guying
by using Rohn 45 and bracket mounting it next to a house or garage roof
eave. Rohn 45 has more foot room for standing on rungs. However, it is
heavier and requires more care to assemble. Rohn 25 is much lighter. First
decide what antennas you want to mount and collect all of their weight and
windload information. Then, refer to the Rohn catalog for the allowable
total windload areas of various configurations of tower.
Definitely select Rohn 45 or 55 if you plan large beam antennas in the
future such as 40m beams or multiple stacked beams.
BRACKET SUPPORTS
If you don't have the Rohn catalog, my recommendation is to get it. It has
house bracketed and freestanding specs in it. For example, 50 feet of 25G
bracketed at 36 and 18 feet will take 14.6 square feet of load at 70 MPH;
50 feet of 45G (same brackets) will take 34.8 square feet. Either choice
will give you a respectable load capability and reliability.
BASES
SELECTING BASE TYPE
Most guyed towers are built on top of a concrete base that has a pier pin
or bolt embedded in it, rather than embedding a tower section in the base.
If you use a pier pin, not only do you not have to worry about having the
bottom section plumb, you also achieve the following benefits:
1) You don't have to worry about water in the tower legs, as it will
naturally pour down the legs and out the weep holes in the base plate.
2) You are in essence putting a bit of a shock absorber on the base of the
tower, the tower can turn a bit from side to side to absorb torque in high
winds, resulting in less stress on the bottom section(s) of tower.
3) You don't have to worry about how the tower "short base section" will
interfere with the steel re-bar in the tower base.
The purpose of the base on a guyed tower is two-fold: to keep the tower
from sinking under the dead weight of not only the tower but also the
pressure of the guy wires, and to keep the base from kicking out. A pier
pin/base plate somehow seems easier to deal with than worrying about making
a base section plumb. The only drawback is the requirement of having to
put temporary guys on the first tower section(s) when the tower is being
erected or dismantled.
It is much easier to construct this way, and use a base plate adapter.
This method actually allows the tower to rotate a little on its base which
helps dissipate torsional stresses in a high wind situation rather than
wrenching the bottom of the tower. The weep holes in the base adapter
completely eliminate the potential problem of water collection and
corrosion of the bottom of the legs. Alignment of the tower is much
simplified, although it is more difficult to erect the first few sections,
which will require temporary guying. In the case of Rohn 25G, however, you
may be able to assemble the first three sections with guys on the ground
and then stand it up.
DIGGING THE HOLE
Bases for smaller towers aren't too bad to dig by hand, but this quickly
changes for larger ones, particularly the self-supporting, un-guyed types.
Hiring someone who owns a backhoe and is experienced with it makes all the
difference. An experienced operator can make short work of digging your
hole. It is important that the base be surrounded by undisturbed earth to
help keep it from shifting. Take care not to dig away more dirt than is
necessary to form the sides. If necessary, have the backhoe operator dig to
rough dimensions and touch up the walls by hand.
If you use or contract for a backhoe to dig the holes for your bas and
anchors, plan on their final volume being larger than you expected. Since
the backhoe isn't always precise, you may get larger dimensions. Also, if
dirt falls off of the sides (sloughs) into the hole, which is common in
larger holes, your hole will become bell shaped after you remove the loose
dirt. The end result is that you may end up needing at least 25% more
concrete (or greater) than you originally thought.
Try to avoid using wood forms below grade. Over time, the wood will rot,
and a mushy gap will form around the concrete, reducing its stability. If
your soil is poor enough that you must use forms, remove them after curing
and take care to thoroughly tamp the soil against the concrete to try and
restore some of the stability of the undisturbed soil condition.
THE RE-BAR CAGE
A re-bar cage is required to give your concrete the tensile strength it
needs to support the load of your tower. Re-bar is sized in reference to
1/8" steps in diameter. For instance, #4 re-bar is 1/2" diameter (4/8) and
#6 re-bar is 3/4" (6/8) diameter, etc. Re-bar of any grade should be
adequate for your tower base as long as it is the right size. Here are some
do's and don'ts for re-bar:
1. Welding weakens re-bar. Tie the pieces together with wire ties cut from
steel or copper wire.
2. Keep re-bar away from any outside concrete surface. The purpose of the
cover concrete cover for re-bar is to keep it from corroding. If re-bar
starts to corrode inside of the concrete it will expand and cause spalling
of the concrete. Where concrete is cast against and permanently exposed to
earth (bottom and sides), the cover should be 3" minimum. Where the
concrete is exposed to weather (portion above grade), the cover for bars
larger than No. 6 should be 2" minimum and for No. 5 and smaller it should
be 1.5" minimum.
3. Use a minimum size of #5 re-bar (5/8" diameter).
4. Cut re-bar easily with an abrasive cutoff blade in a grinder or circular
saw.
Three ways of addressing # 2 above are as follows:
a) Support the cage on bricks, broken-up pieces of concrete step stones,
or home-made concrete pedestals to keep re-bar "within" concrete. You can
use the small cardboard tube forms for testing concrete to pour little
pedestals. Alternately, you may be able to buy some 3" 'dobie' blocks with
wires at your local building materials yard. These are 3" square blocks
with tie wires embedded in them made for just this purpose.
b) Pour 3" of concrete first and let it cure a little before placing your
cage, and;
c) Pour most or all of the concrete with the re-bar cage resting on the
bottom and then use hooks to pull the cage up about 3 inches. It will
SLOWLY move with some force. Decent concrete should pass a slump test (and
not be so watery) so that the re-bar won't sink. Just make sure that you
tie the cage together with the appropriate twist tie wires and it will hold
together, allowing the whole thing to be moved upwards.
THE CONCRETE
Mixing concrete your self is a lot of work. One 80 pound bag of Quickrete
will make 2/3 cubic feet of concrete. It takes about 10 minutes to mix one
bag of this in a wheelbarrow and dump it into the base. A tower base
3'x3'x3' is one cubic yard, or 27 cubic feet, requiring 40 bags! That would
be 400 minutes or over 6 hours of mixing by hand! For smaller bases, such
as a 2'x2' diameter base with a 2x2 square top extending 4" above grade,
the volume is only about 8 cubic feet and can easily be mixed up by hand.
For the larger bases, though, it is much easier to order 1 cubic yard of
concrete and use wheelbarrows to shuttle the concrete from the truck to the
pour site. Another option is to rent a concrete mixer on site.
If you have concrete delivered, and the concrete truck cannot get to your
anchor and base excavations, you can set up a brigade with several friends
using multiple wheelbarrows to carry the concrete to the holes. You can
also rent a motorized wheelbarrow, which takes a lot of the strain out of
the job. Alternately, contract for a concrete pumper truck, some of which
can deliver their loads up to 400 feet away from the truck.
You can also purchase dye to color the concrete that will show above grade
to match the landscaping. A company named Colorcrete makes a range of dyes
that you can purchase from your local concrete plant. Colorcrete #CC50,
used at the rate of at least 2 pounds per yard, or 2-4 heaping tablespoons
per 80 lb bag of Quickrete, makes a pleasing, light rusty brown concrete,
similar to the color of exposed aggregate concrete. Quickrete also sells a
limited number of shades at home centers.
For hand mixing, a large wheelbarrow and a hoe will be required. Use about
1-1/2 gallons of water per 80 pound bag of Quickrete. In any case, a
tamping/vibrating tool is a must for flowing the concrete into your form
and around your re-bar cage. For large pours of several yards, you can rent
a flexible concrete vibrating tube to make the concrete flow. For smaller
pours, you can make a manual tool by screwing a 3" diameter disc cut from
1/2" thick scrap plywood to the end of a 6 foot long piece of 1x2 board
stock. The plane of the disk should be at right angles to the length of the
board. When you submerge the disk and shake the stick, the vibrations will
make the concrete flow and level itself nicely. Take care not to use the
vibrator too much or the gravel will begin to sink to the bottom, weakening
the concrete. Use only enough vibration to make the concrete flow and
level.
Setting bolts into existing concrete bases can be done. For minor stuff,
expanding anchors will suffice. Since they'll never come out unless you
chisel out the concrete around them, the stainless steel version is
preferred. Waterproofing hint: put some Araldite (an epoxy glue) in the
hole before setting the anchor. As the anchor expands, it pushes the
Araldite into all the voids that would otherwise retain water & eventually
wick through the concrete. For any serious stuff - the pier pin for Rohn
45 would probably count - use Hilti brand anchors. This company makes a
literally dozens of different anchors for concrete. They have a whole
series of chemical anchors, which would be perfect for the application.
They come with either a plated or stainless steel threaded rod & a glass
epoxy-filled cartridge. Drill the hole, blow out the dust, drop in the
cartridge, drive the rod in with a hammer to break the cartridge, attach
drill chuck to end of rod & drive it home (which mixes the epoxy at the
same time). About 20 minutes later, you have an anchor that is stronger
than the concrete it's set in.
CONCRETE DO'S AND DON'TS
Concrete continues to gain strength as long as it stays moist. Concrete
does not "dry," it undergoes a reaction called hydration, which requires
water. The longer you can keep the concrete moist, the longer it hydrates,
and the stronger it gets. If it dries, then the reaction stops and it stops
gaining compressive strength.
Concrete gains strength with decreasing momentum, i.e. most of it's
strength is gained early on in the curing period. If you have a proper mix
of "Cement", sand and gravel and not too much water (this is a strength
killer) the majority of the strength will occur in the first ten days or
so. The consensus seems to be to wait at least 7-10 days before putting
stress on the concrete.
Here is a guide for concrete strength versus curing time taken from a civil
engineering handbook. The percentages are of the concrete's normal rated
strength, and apply only as long as the concrete is still moist and
hydrating!:
Days Strength
3 25%
7 60%
28 100%
90 120%
180 125%
Strength Killers:
1. Sun beating on freshly poured concrete. Keep it covered with wet straw
(or old wet rug) plus plastic or tar paper.
2. Excessive heat. Don't pour concrete when the temperature is high.
3. Pouring concrete into a hole that is dry. Wet the bottom and sides of
the hole prior to pouring concrete otherwise the dry soil will suck the
water out of the concrete and you will surely have a weak mix when it
cures.
4. Stressing the fresh concrete by rocking the tower base or premature
assembly and climbing.
5. Letting the surface get dry while it is curing. Give it a spray with
water as often as possible to keep it wet because it WON'T CURE IF IT GETS
DRY, IT WILL ONLY GET DRY.
CONCRETE STRENGTH
ULTIMATE STENGTH (these materials just break without yielding - brittle)
Bricks, common light red - 40 (tension), 1,000 (compression)
Portland Cement, 1 month old - 400 (tension), 2,000 (compression)
Portland Cement, 1 year old - 500 (tension), 3,000 (compression)
Portland Concrete, 1 month old - 200 (tension), 1,000 (compression)
Portland Concrete, 1 year old - 400 (tension), 2,000 (compression)
Granite - 700 (tension), 19,000 (compression)
Note the difference in tension and compression for the rock-types. This is
why re-bar is used in concrete, to add tensile strength for a better
composite building material. Fiberglass is another example of this. The
resin has compressive strength and the cloth has the tensile strength.
The tensile and compressive strengths of metals are much more evenly
matched, but can still vary.
Take care to level the surface of the base before the concrete cures. The
plumb of the base section of your tower will partly depend on how well you
do this. Also, the compressive loading of the tower legs will be better
equalized with a flatter, level base top. Your re-bar cage should not touch
the pier pin and should not come within 3 inches of any surface of the
concrete.
For the embedded tower section method only, your foundation will have a
hump that causes water to run away from the legs. No cavities in the
foundation near the legs for water (or mud!) to accumulate. Foundations
should rise several inches above the surrounding soil so that mud cannot
wash onto the foundation and accumulate. After the concrete has fully cured
for at least 30 days, seal the exposed concrete with "wet-or-dry" asphalt
roof cement - it's asphalt with encapsulated asbestos, and appears to drive
out or absorb water at the adhesion surface with tin roofs, concrete, you
name it. Cost is good too - only about $4 per gallon!
MAST AND BOOM MATERIAL SELECTION
DO NOT use common water pipe unless the mast will only extend a few feet
above the last tower section.
Use "structural tubing" instead of "pipe" for strength and known strength
properties, and buy it new for assurance of its properties.
PROPERTIES OF MATERIALS
STRENGTH
Rohn offers a 2" x 10' High strength galvanized steel mast, Part Number is
M200H I believe ... when I checked with them years ago, the spec was that
this is a 50,000 psi mast. It is VERY heavy, I think the wall thickness is
0.125"
The strength of a mast, or any metal part, for that matter, is highly
dependent on the composition of the metal and its treatment, resulting in a
specific yield stress value. The yield strength of a material is the
stress, expressed in pounds per square inch (psi), at which a material
begins to deform permanently, resulting in some sort of lasting change of
shape after the stress is removed.
The ultimate strength, usually somewhat higher, is that where the material
has already yielded, and stretched or bent, and finally breaks. You
generally want to design things to stay below 50-67% of the yield strength
of the material (safety factor between 1.5 to 2). The translation of the
stress level to the actual allowable loads on the part in question, and
vice-versa, is the tricky part that requires an analysis of the geometry
and math. Those calculations can get hairy!
The strength of metals varies greatly with the method of their manufacture
and composition.
1) Quenching, cooling very rapidly from a glowing hot temperature, can
dramatically increase the hardness, but introduces brittleness.
2) Tempering, re-heating to a lower temperature followed by a slow cooling,
'draws' the hardness back down, reducing the brittleness and adding some
toughness.
3) Annealing, heating to a high (glowing) temperature and allowing to cool
slowly, softens a metal, reducing hardness and adding considerable
ductility (ability to be bent and formed).
4) Cold working, when parts are bent, mashed, drawn, hammered (wrought),
flattened, etc, by machine or by hand, causes the hardness and strength to
go up somewhat.
5) Repetitive bending causes fatigue and drastic strength loss. This, in
turn, can further cause your wallet and credibility to vaporize if you have
not accounted for it!
Different metals and alloys of the same metal respond very differently to
these treatments. It gets complicated!
It depends on the alloy *and* the treatment.
The point to remember is that identifying the type of metal is *far*
different from knowing its actual strength. The advice of not using a pipe
or tube of unknown origin for a mast is good because even though you may
know that it is steel or aluminum, you still don't know it's properties
unless you bought it from a manufacturer or reseller or have it tested.
Of course, you can always count on minimum strength values for types of
metals, with the knowledge that it may still be much stronger.
Hardness has an excellent correlation with the strength of the metal. The
harder it is to prick with a center punch, the higher its yield strength.
Again, It depends on the alloy *and* the treatment.
Here is some data from Machinery's Handbook, 23rd edition:
SOME REPRESENTATIVE YIELD STRENGTHS
Aluminum, 6061-O (fully annealed) - 8,000 (surprise!)
Copper, annealed (soft) - 10,000 psi
Brass, cast - 12-15,000
Aluminum, 6061-T4 - 24,000 (surprise!)
Wrought iron - 23,000 to 32,000 psi
Wrought Steel (water pipe) - 23,000-32,000
Steel, stainless, 304L & 316L, annealed, 30,000 psi (at its softest)
Steel, common structural (I-beams, etc) - at least 33,000
Steel, stainless, 304 & 316, annealed, 35,000 psi (at its softest)
Aluminum, 6061-T6 - 40,000 (surprise! - it's the treatment)
Copper, wrought, up to 53,000 (what the book says!)
Brass, wrought - up to 62,000 (what the book says)
Steel, 1025 low carbon (cheap fasteners) - 50,000
Steel, 1050, quenched and tempered "typical" - 95,000
Tool steel, 4140, quenched, tempered to 1200F - 95,000 (tough)
Steel, Stainless, 316, tempered and work hardened, up to 100,000
Tool steel, 4140, quenched, tempered to 400F - 238,000 (!) (brittle)
(4140 is commonly referred to as ?chrome-moly steel?)
Ok, you see that the alloy and the treatment affect the properties.
Be very careful to know what the alloy is and what the heat treatment is.
The little "T6" behind the 6061 aluminum is easy to overlook but is SOOOO
important.
By the way, 6061-T6 is one of the most common structural aluminums.
4140 is but one of many, many tool steel alloys.
SIZE DATA FOR WATER PIPE (INCHES) (count on about 20,000 psi yield)
SIZE, SCHEDULE, ID, OD, WALL THK
1.25, 40, 1.380, 1.660, .140
1.25, 80, 1.278, 1.660, .191
1.50, 40, 1.610, 1.900, .145
1.50, 80, 1.500, 1.900, .200
2.00, 40, 2.067, 2.375, .154
2.00, 80, 1.939, 2.375, .218
I don't know if the MARC program accepts input of yield strength
information for materials and independent sizes in the calculation of mast
strengths, but this data along with the size data will tell you
*approximately* what a mast will take, provided you *know the alloy and the
treatment*
If in doubt, go and buy something of known properties.
I did some more digging on the strength properties of water pipe, to help us
select and size it for mast use more
effectively. NOTE: I am not referring to structural tubing, which is a
completely different class of higher-quality
and stronger steel. Here's what I found out.
Water pipe is no longer made from wrought iron, it is all wrought steel, since
the 70's. Any 'scheduled' water pipe
you buy new should be wrought carbon steel.
The 'jackpot' reference table is in the American Society for Metals handbook,
volume 1, eighth edition, page 149.
The pipes are made to ASTM or API specifications, with corresponding
sub-grades, which should be marked on
your pipe if it is new, so you can positively identify the grade and strength.
The most common, and lowest grade of pipe is ASTM grade A120, welded or
seamless pipe, back or galvanized.
It's material composition *is not controlled at all* !!!!
****
Specification A120 does not specify or require a minimum yield strength (page
146). All that is required is that it
pass a hydrostatic pressure test! Wow, this is unbelievable. It is used "...for
all ordinary purposes such as
conveying fluids under low pressure..." For this reason alone, I would not
recommend grade A120 at all. Check
the markings. This is crap steel! One can only guess that it has close to the
lowest strength of the other types, *at
best*. Now we know where all the recycled steel from those AMC Pacers went to!
Hee hee hee <*grin*>
****
NOTE: the strengths are *yield* strength (not tensile strength), which is the
point where the material will first
start to bend permanently. Stainless steel pipe is different, and I will post
that data when I find it.
Match up the mill markings on the pipe itself (best), or if new, refer to the
vendor's specification/certification.
MINIMUM YIELD STRENGTHS FOR:
COMMON SCHEDULED WATER PIPE TYPES
Carbon (plain) steel, black or galvanized
ASTM TYPES
A120, no sub grade .... ??? pot luck
A53, no letter grade .. 25,000 psi
A53, grade A ......... 30,000 psi
A53, grade B ......... 35,000 psi
A106, grade A ......... 30,000 psi
A106, grade B ......... 35,000 psi
A106, grade C ......... 40,000 psi
A135, grade A ......... 30,000 psi
A135, grade B ......... 33,000 psi
A139, grade A ......... 30,000 psi
A139, grade B ......... 35,000 psi
A333, grade C ......... 30,000 psi
API TYPES
5A, grade F-25 ........ 25,000 PSI
5A, grade H-40 ........ 40,000 PSI
5A, grade J-55 ........ 55,000 PSI
5A, grade N-80 ........ 80,000 PSI
5A, grade P-105 ....... 105,000 PSI
5A, grade P-110 ....... 110,000 PSI
5A, grade D ........... 55,000 PSI
5A, grade E ........... 75,000 PSI
5L, no grade given .... 25,000 PSI
5L, class I ........... 25,000 PSI
5L, class II .......... 28,000 PSI
5L, class A ........... 30,000 PSI
5L, class B ........... 35,000 PSI
As you can see, the strengths can vary considerably, but if you have scheduled
water pipe that you cannot
positively identify, don't assume a yield strength higher than 25,000. And
that's with no safety factor.
This material is so commonly available, it can be quite suitable for masting,
when you select the grade and size it
properly. But just remember that is the the weakest grade of steel there is, so
size your application carefully.
STIFFNESS AND ELASTICITY
SPRINGINESS OF MATERIALS
Greetings from Virginia's Middle Peninsula,
At the risk of boring some, I will make an attempt to describe and quantify
'stretching' for those who are interested. Forgive me if the majority have
no interest in this level of detail or consider the topic already beaten to
death. Reviewing it sure helps me, anyway.
The phenomenon that is being described, "stretch", is elastic deformation
(also deflection), a temporary change of shape that makes a material act
like a spring. Materials can stretch elastically (temporary), plastically
(permanent), or a combination of both, in any direction.
Just about any part will act like a spring under certain conditions. When a
load is applied to a part, it moves a little (deformation). Strain is
actually defined as the amount of movement per unit length of the part. If
its yield stress was not exceeded, it moves back to its original shape, and
that is called elastic deformation (deflection). In this manner, a part
(such as a boom, mast, or guy wire) acts like a spring. If it deflects too
far and its yield stress was exceeded, however, it may move back toward its
original shape, but it will retain some amount of permanent change of shape
(elastic deformation + plastic deformation) and the material suffers damage
in the form of a permanent bend.
We want to avoid the permanent, plastic deformation! We design parts to be
strong enough so that they don't break (yield stress is not exceeded).
However, and this is the point: Just because a part won't break does *not*
mean that it will not bend elastically and be quite springy! And sometimes
more than you intended! Parts have to be designed to control their
deflection (related to springiness) as well as their ultimate strength.
Who else has tried to straighten some wire from a spool or your whip
antenna? (who else has had to use their 2m whip to unlock their car door?
<grin>) You have to bend it way back in the opposite direction (elastic),
and then carefully a little more (exceeding the part's yield stress) to get
the right amount of permanent bend (plastic) so that when you let go it has
the shape you want.
The relationship between the size of the load and the amount of deflection
(elastic movement) is controlled by the size and shape of the part and the
"Modulus of Elasticity" (modulus for short) of the material that the part
is made from. Just as the yield stresses can vary for different materials,
the modulus is also dependent on the type of material. The higher the
modulus, the *less* a part will change shape elastically. The modulus of
steels is well known, and varies very little for different steels. I don't
have data for aramid fiber. Perhaps Kurt can find this or someone will
contact Phillystran's manufacturer for this data.
Fiberglass is a composite material, and has a wildly different modulus
depending on the direction in which the load is applied compared to how the
glass strands are oriented. Quad spreaders are quite elastic in bending,
but much stiffer in tension. I have no data for these materials. Now we're
really getting complicated!
We tend to think of wire cables as fixed in length, but they will deform
with a load, and we hope they will always be elastic deformations!
A straight, solid rod is easy to analyze for strain. As you can imagine, a
lot of force is required to make it change length (high spring constant).
Plain, straight rod makes a crummy extension spring, but a spring
nonetheless! However, if you coil it, the stress is applied in a different
way, and there's much, much more length of wire per unit of length. When
you pull on a coil spring, you are actually causing the wire to twist in
torsion rather than just extend in length. You can get a lot more elastic
movement from this shape without exceeding the yield stress (lower spring
constant).
Think about the shape of a piece of EHS guy wire. Its strands are twisted
into a gentle spiral. Nothing like a coil extension spring, but some small
amount of torsional loading will occur, slightly increasing the overall
deflection/change in length. Also, there is less cross-sectional area of
steel as compared to a solid rod of the same diameter, also increasing the
deformation.
Now, for those of you who haven't hit delete yet, and without dragging you
through too much more mumbo-jumbo, here are a few numbers to give you a
feel for the amount of movement we're talking about:
EXAMPLE: 100 feet of *solid* steel cable, with a 400 pound tension:
DIA, TENSILE STRESS, TOTAL CHANGE IN LENGTH
1/8, 32,600 psi, 1.3 inches
3/16, 14,600 psi, 0.58 inches
1/4, 8148 psi, 0.33 inches
You see how using a part that is way oversized for stress alone helps
control deflection/deformation/'springiness'
I don't have data in my handbooks for the modulus of wire rope in tension,
but the above numbers should be a good starting point. I would venture a
guess as 10% more for EHS.
This means that when you pre-load your 3/16 guys, for example, they will
stretch elastically somewhere around 3/4 inch, I'd say, just due to the
change in length. Something else happens, too. Guy wires have droop, or
sag, which, due to gravity, requires more length of cable between two
points because it's not in a perfectly straight line. This introduces yet
another potential for elastic change in length. Let's now guess about 1
inch of total change in length for our 3/16 cable. Once the sag is pulled
out of your guy, not too many turns of your turnbuckle are needed to raise
the tension!
Reducing sag and the spring effect it introduces is another reason for
proper pre-loading of guys. Bigger guys are heavier, will sag more, and
will require more pre-load. It seems to me now, after thinking about all
that I have learned about towers here on the reflector, that the 10% of
breaking strength rule of thumb helps out here.
OK, long again as usual... for those of you who are still reading... What
happens to the tension in guys and to the movement of the tower when the
wind blows on it?
As the wind forces build, the tower moves a little. This movement stretches
the upwind guy(s) elastically, adding to the pre-load tension on the upwind
guys and resisting the movement. However, the downwind guy(s) will
*release* their pre-load and lose tension, also resisting the movement. In
this system, the guy forces react synergistically to hold the tower closer
to, but not exactly in its original position. The more the guys act like
springs the more the tower will move in the wind. The more the tower moves,
the more fatal bending moment will be applied to the tower section.
Therefore (I must be getting toward the end), larger guys made from
materials with a greater modulus will control your tower better and keep
the bending forces lower.
Thank you for the bandwidth. This post turned out longer than I wanted, but
I hope it helps someone understand some of the engineering and materials a
little better. And if so, then they will build their towers more safely.
Hi Mark, good explanation! I found some info on the aramid cable. A rigging
supplier in Portsmouth, RI provided the data. They specialize in marine
rigging
For the sake of others who haven't been exposed to modulus of elasticity
values, here is a list: Note: Msi stands for millions of Psi:
Fiberglass 3.5- 4.0 Msi, (epoxy/e-glass Mil Spec G-10 material)
Aluminum 10 Msi 9(common 6061 & 6063 alloys)
Aramid fiber 18 Msi (Kevlar 49 used for most aramid guying cable -
Phillystran)
Aramid fiber 25 Msi (Kevlar 149. I only found listings for 8600Lb - 32500
Lb. cable)
Steel 29 Msi (commonly used steels mild, chrome-moly, and stainless)
I think the bulk of aramid cable sold to amateurs is Kevlar 49, the 149 is
more expensive, but it can be had.
THRUST BEARINGS
Use two separate thrust bearings, one on the top plate, and one below the
top plate, only when you have a long mast that you need to keep steady.
This way a rotor can be made removable without making the mast unsteady or
unsupported. Leave the lower bearing loose while the rotor is in place.
This is important because it is extremely difficult to line up both
bearings AND the rotator without having the mast bind up somewhere. Rotors
are designed to hold the vertical weight of a mast, and that weight helps
the races in the rotor wear evenly. Raise the mast and tighten the lower
bearing only when you need to remove the rotor for servicing. However, if
you have a long, very heavy mast, you could tighten both bearings to
support the entire mast and use a short connecting section with a flexible
coupling between the rotor and bottom of the mast. All rotors will
eventually need service and this scheme makes maintenance easy.
The Rohn TB-3 has aluminum races. It does not have to be packed with grease
to extend its life.
The most secure way to support a heavy mast with antennas is to place a
muffler clamp around the mast just above the bearing and use the bolts of
the bearing mostly as guides to center and snug the mast. Over tightening
of these bolts can flare their tips, making them impossible to remove from
the bearing.
PROTECTING THRUST BEARINGS FROM SNOW AND ICE
Are you concerned about accumulation of ice on your thrust bearing or
pointy top? This is not a problem with all types of installations, but some
almost encourage water and ice to build up. One way to add protection is to
mount a rubber sewer fitting on the mast with a hose clamp. The fitting in
question adapts a small size pipe (your mast in this case) to a much larger
size pipe (the area you are trying to protect in umbrella fashion, in this
case). Water runs away from the thrust bearing or pointy top with this
arrangement. Works slick. Looks neater if you think about it before you
install the mast, but it can even be installed after everything is in the
air.... just cut the adapter with a pocket knife and seal it back up with
RTV once it's fitted over the mast. One manufacturer of these rubber
fittings is "Furnco", and some people refer to these fittings as
"Furnco's."
ANCHORS
SOIL MECHANICS PRIMER
The 400 psf/ft of depth figure (pounds per square foot of anchor area per
foot of depth buried below the surface), mentioned in the Rohn drawings for
"normal soil," is for lateral bearing of guy anchors. The value does not
contain the required factor of safety of 2. If you work in allowable
stresses you end up with 200 psf/ft of depth with a maximum of 2000 psf/ft.
Now you need to know the depth and thickness of your anchor.
For towers having anchors less that 10 feet deep, start by finding the
depth to the center of the anchor block and call it D. Next, multiply D by
200 psf/ft and you will get the allowable lateral bearing pressure for the
foundation, called Q. The lateral side bearing area of your anchor,
multiplied by Q, must be greater than the horizontal load for the guy
anchor to prevent anchor pullout.
Now for your question of "What is normal soil?" It is a cohesive soil with
no water (water table below foundation depth). What is cohesive? Soils are
classified by their grain size. In layman's terms -- there are boulders,
gravels, sands, silts, and clays (large to small). Solid rock has its own
system with RQD's and other properties (another subject). Soils come in
various mixtures and have two major properties -- angle of internal
friction (phi) and cohesion (C). To simplify - pure sands have phi and pure
clays have C. This is definitely an oversimplification! Soils are hardly
ever just one type, so most soils are classified according to charts rating
their grain size. This test can be done in the laboratory with a grain size
analysis (a series of various size screens) or it can be done by hand and
"feeling" the soil.
A sand will feel gritty and a clay will feel smooth. A silt is in between
and can fall either way. Silts are the most difficult to classify. There
are some beach sands that are classified as silts and have phi angles and
some silts are hard as clays. Hard silts will lose strength when wetted and
clays don't. Now what is Normal Soil? Normal soil is a cohesive soil -
normally a clay but could be a silt. To make a comparison - take Q from
above and if it greater than C (cohesion) it meets or exceed the normal
soil parameters. C can be measured by various means. The laboratory test -
unconfied/2, The standard penetration test (N /8), The pocket penetrometer
test /3. There is even a system of estimating C using your thumb nail. The
answer to which test to use depends on your available equipment and
experience.
ANCHOR TYPES
There are many types of earth anchors and their strength depends on the
type of soil they are installed in. You must determine the type of soil you
have to determine the pullout rating of an anchor. The anchors are
critical. They are truly the only thing that keeps a tower in the air. When
you lose a guy, you lose your tower.
The concrete type anchors specified by Rohn in their catalog have greater
holding power than the screw type anchors, but they require more effort and
cost to construct.
SCREW ANCHORS AND STRENGTHS
Some screw-type earth anchor information available from one of the largest
manufacturers, AB Chance Co. @ http://www.hubbell.com/abchance. The
Virginia distributor is JA Walder, P.O. Box 1272, Ashland, VA 23005. Their
website is http://www.walder.com, email is email@walder.com, and their
telephone is 1-800-335-3605.
The pullout strength of anchors is highly dependent on the properties of
the soil. Here are some pullout strengths for AB Chance screw-anchor models
for 'NORMAL SOIL'. I don't know how to adjust the ratings exactly
for other types.....(* indicates galvanized). Soils with clay will provide
more pullout strength. Softer soils that have more sand and loam, or that
become saturated with water during season rainfall will have much less
holding power.
MODEL # SCREW DIA SHAFT LENGTH PULLOUT PRICE
315SA 3 IN 15 IN 200 LB $5.25
330SA 3 IN 30 IN 1400 LB $6.00
430SA 4 IN 30 IN 2500 LB $7.50
404 4 IN 40 IN 3000 LB $12.90
604 6 IN 48 IN 4000 LB $15.24
*4345 4 IN 54 IN 3000 LB $26.76
*6346 6 IN 66 IN 4500 LB $34.08
*816 8 IN 66 IN 10000 LB $52.86
Clearly, there is a relationship between the screw diameter, depth, and the
pullout strength. For a 100' or taller tower, screw anchors should be down
about 6 feet, and have a minimum 6" diameter screw. You can get 6 ft.
anchors from a cable tv supply company. An 8 inch model has nearly enough
reserve strength for the full breaking strength of 3 3/16" guys (12000 lb).
It may also be possible to buy ground anchors from the local electrical
power company.
INSTALLATION OF SCREW ANCHORS
My first set I screwed into the ground (clay!)... enough of that
nonsense...since then I use a post hole digger (power where possible, by
hand elsewhere)... I drop a half bag of Quikcrete down the hole, then screw
the auger down the hole until it bottoms, and backfill... pull tests with
my backhoe have convinced me that the guy wires (4000#) will part long
before the anchor fails...
Water softening the ground will help if you insist upon doing them the hard
way. Don't waste too much water, the ground can only soak up so much. A 2-3
day rain tends to soften up the ground considerably. After this you may
have to try the anchor at different angles until it grabs, then slowly
start tilting the anchor back toward the tower at the average angle of the
guy cables. I would wait a week after installing to allow the ground to dry
before putting any load on the anchor in that case. It may be easier to dig
part way down with post hole diggers to help set the screw. Then back fill
the hole, tamping firmly every 6 inches. Another trick to help start these
is to have someone pound the end with a sledgehammer while two others turn
it using a 5 foot section of 1" pipe for a torque bar.
GUY CABLES
GUY CABLES ACT LIKE SPRINGS
Refer also to the above section on springiness of materials. Guy cables
that are not perfectly vertical act like extension springs in two ways:
Mode 1) They change length relatively easily without significant elastic
stretching as the droop in them is pulled tight, resulting in a very low
spring rate until all the slack is pulled out, as you approach the
proverbial "straight line between two points."
Mode 2) Once they are tight, they can still change length mostly by
stretching elastically, although only with much larger changes in tension
(much larger spring rate)
HOW GUY CABLES STABILIZE YOUR TOWER
So....before a guy wire can really do its thing, which is to keep the tower
legs from moving, (ideally), it must pull tight for upwind guys or already
be tight for downwind guys. Upwind guys will increase their tension, and
downwind guys will release their tension to balance the forces (of wind,
let's say) that are trying to move the tower. But because of the elasticity
effect, the tower *must move* first to reach a new equilibrium. It flexes.
ORIGIN OF THE 10% PRELOAD RULE
How do you decide when you have pulled all the slack out? Thanks to
gravity, it is very difficult to get the guy wire to be a perfectly
straight line unless it is vertical. There will always be a "catenary"
curve in it that includes excess slack, even when the cable is pulled well
beyond 10% of its breaking strength. Well, at some point, you have to pull
it so tight that the tension starts to make the guy wire stretch
elastically (going from mode 1 to mode 2 above.) And the cable still isn't
perfectly straight. I believe that the 10% of breaking strength rule has
been worked out to where, for the weight of a typical cable, practically
all the slack has been pulled out, putting the cable into mode 2 as
described above. If you preload your wire with much more tension, you are
simply reducing its ability to absorb additional load from wind before you
reach its breaking strength. However, (don't we always run into these), if
you reduce your guy anchor spacing from the base below the 80% of tower
height, then an increase of guy preload to 15% of breaking strength (600 lb
for 3/16 EHS) helps compensate and control tower flex without cutting too
far into your reserve cable strength.
EFFECT OF GUY SIZE
Another factor: the larger the diameter of the guy, for the same material,
the higher will be its spring rate, and the better it can resist a change
in length (and movement of your tower) for the same loading force. Since it
is heavier, it requires more preload tension to pull out the slack. Thus,
the 10% rule keeps up with things. Using a thicker guy gives you more
control over the flexing of your tower since it has a much higher spring
rate, and much larger forces are required to make it change length. If you
play a stringed instrument, you can see this effect when you change, say,
from extra-light gauge strings to medium gauge. It's a lot tougher on your
fingers to fret them!
TYPES
3/16" type EHS galvanized wire works well. Preforms, or "dead ends" are the
most reliable and easiest way to terminate the guys. Old type cable clamps
are cheaper but tend to loosen with age as the joint forms itself to the
cable after tightening. Use thimbles at ALL terminations. Although the
tower leg gives you a nice convenient radius for the preforms, this
technique does nothing for the wind-induced torque that will try to twist
your tower down. This is the function of the guy assemblies; to add torque
resistance. There is a specified size of thimble for each part of the guy
wire system; i.e. a 3/16" preform grip takes a 7/16 to 3/8 inch thimble.
BTW, the 'seat diameter' (which is the distance/radius required) for a
3/16" preform is one inch minimum. Since 25G is 1.25 inch OD, it does give
an acceptable seat diameter for installing the preform grip directly on the
leg. A 1/4" EHS guy cable takes a 1/2" thimble to properly match the bend
radius. Have you ever seen a 1/4" thimble floating inside the loop of a
1/4" guy grip? The mismatch makes the thimble essentially useless.
Moving along, you'll need to use thimbles when using the guy assemblies but
they are smaller diameter than the legs and you shouldn't have as much
trouble getting the thimbles over them. There are different kinds of
thimbles. Many are teardrop-shaped; these are the ones that you'll have to
open up when installing them. Check with your local suppliers; there are
also thimbles that are U-shaped with enough clearance in the mouth that you
should have a minimum of fuss installing them. Yes, the whole process is
tedious but just think how well you'll sleep nights knowing you did
everything correctly. You can easily bend the thimbles open using two
adjustable wrenches. Place one on each free end of the thimble and bend
them away from each other, perpendicular to the plane of the thimble's
curve. What you end up with is sort of a spiral, creating a large opening
in the thimble end.
3/8" EHS guy cable (7 strands, 0.138" dia each) is rated at 15,400#
breaking strength, 5/16" EHS guy cable (7 x 0.104") is rated at 11,200#.
1/4" EHS (7 x 0.080) is rated at 6600#. 3/16 EHS (7 x 0.063") is rated at
3990# strength. This material is called galvanized guy strand, and should
be made to ASTM spec # A475-78, grade EHS. Back calculating from these
numbers, the steel in this case, has an ultimate tensile strength of about
185,000 psi, except for the 3/8", which works out to about 145,000 psi. The
yield strengths would be about 3/4 of these values.
Phillystran is a non-conducting guy wire material made out of aramid fiber
and is like Kevlar - strong and lightweight. It comes in different
diameters and strengths. It appears Texas Towers may be the only
Phillystran supplier in the ham market.
HPTG1200I - 1200 pound strength (545 kg), .19 inch diameter (4.8 mm)
HPTG2100I - 2100 pound (953 kg), .24 inch dia., (6.1 mm)
HPTG4000I - 4000 pound (1816 kg), .30 inch dia., (7.6 mm)
HPTG6700I - 6700 pound (3,042 kg), .37 inch dia., (9.4 mm)
Phillystran consists of a Kevlar (aramid fiber) fiber core and a PVC
jacket. The purposes of the jacket are: 1) to protect the cable from
abrasion during installation, 2) to prevent moisture from wicking into the
core and 3) most importantly, to protect the core from UV damage.
Phillystran has only been manufactured since 1974 so thus far the longest
service life of the product has been 23 years. No one knows how long it'll
last past that because it hasn't been around long enough. 40-50 years?
Maybe. The service life may also be related to the region and environment;
the more UV, heat, wind, etc. may have an impact on how long it retains its
characteristics. Some of the oldest Phillystran (with the old jacket
material) is still being used in southern Florida. In places the jacket has
disappeared and the core is out in the Florida sun. After 23 years in this
worst case scenario, it still retains 75% of its rated tensile strength.
Bottom line? It'll last a long time and is a worthwhile investment
particularly if you're planning on having a populated tower/antenna system
and want to minimize any potential interaction problems. You need to use
factory preformed guy grips for the bigger sizes but for boom trusses using
the smallest size, cable clamps are okay. It is a commercial product and
its PVC jacket gives abrasion and UV resistance so that its service life is
probably 20 years or longer. Phillystran can be terminated with a special
preformed grip made by Preformed Products.
Pultruded fiberglass rod has been proposed by some for use as guy material.
The elastic modulus is 4.83 times less than steel, however, meaning that it
is much more elastic. In order to have the same spring rate as steel guys,
and therefore the same ability to stabilize your tower in the wind, the
cross-sectional area of the fiberglass must be 4.83 times that of the
steel. This works out pretty close to double the EHS diameter when you
account for the stranding. So, the equivalent solid fiberglass rod diameter
would be twice the EHS size you want to replace. With this rule of thumb,
3/8" solid, pultruded fiberglass rod makes a good substitute for 3/16" EHS
guy cable.
EHS guy wire has a different twist than wire rope, and requires preformed
grips made for that specific type of wire.
Using Rohn's guy assemblies (not torque arms) allows a secure attachment
for the guys (as opposed, for example, having them looped around the legs
where you have the forces being held by the diagonal welds). Imagine a
force big enough to pull the leg out, bending it and possibly breaking a
weld or two. This would not happen with a guy assembly. The guy assemblies
allow the forces to be spread across the faces of the tower instead of just
a leg. (See 'big force' above.) The guy assembly allows Rohn towers to
comply with the TIA-222-E structural tower standards. Lack of guy assembly
makes them non-compliant and probably has an impact on their rated wind
load figures as well. Rohn came out with the current product to upgrade to
one of the recent TIA-222 revisions. When they did their calculations, they
found the "old" torque arms really didn't contribute anything to the
torsional resistance of the tower. What they did do was keep the twist down
as it was being climbed. They discontinued the old product but hams put up
such a fuss that they re-introduced them. If you use the current guy
attachments and tension the guy wires properly, there's not much need to
have the old torque arms installed.
Although it entails two more guy ends and hence ups the cost per guy it
seems like the EHS pigtail at both ends of a Phillystran guy is a nice
inexpensive comfort margin. I am thinking in terms of tool buckets,
climbing belts and the like bouncing off Philly as a potential source of
problem, if you bump into EHS who cares!
As far as down below and sizes that fit, etc.....what we use at the
equalizer plate IS the turnbuckle. The lower end eye of the turnbuckle is
sandwiched between the equalizer plates.
This is nice in that it "freezes" the lower end of the turnbuckle from
rotation. When you are done tensioning everything you just need to "freeze"
the top half of the turnbuckle and the center of the turnbuckle which can
be accomplished with a single loop of cable through those two. Watch the
combination of bolt size that the equalizer plate uses with eye size on the
turnbuckle, make sure the eye is big enough to handle that diameter bolt.
This will present the top end of the turnbuckle as what you need to
actually connect the guy to. A simple thimble through the eye of the
turnbuckle (I prefer the eye type over the jaw type as there is fewer
things to go wrong [K.I.S.S.]) and a preform and you are good to go!
Cutting EHS cable can be difficult without bolt cutters. One method is to
use a hand grinder. Tape the place where you want to make the cut and it'll
zing through it in less than 10 seconds. The tape keeps the strands from
unraveling after its cut. If you don't have a hand grinder, you can use a
steel-cutting aggregate blade in your skill saw. They only run four or five
bucks. BE REAL CAREFUL - use eye protection when doing this because you'll
be throwing sparks all over the place. This method also works for cutting
concrete rebar. Another method is to use a steel "cold chisel." Place the
guy wire across any metal surface (metal that is softer than the chisel!),
put the chisel on the wire and strike with a 2 lb. or bigger hammer. Wear
safety glasses!
USING PREFORMED GUY GRIPS AND THIMBLES
Please be aware that Rohn recommends only the "Big Grip" series of guy
grips for tower installation. The regular grips sold by most supply houses
are for utilty pole guying applications and much shorter then the Big
Grips. There are even some brands of utility type grips with only three
strands of steel instead of the four in a Big Grip. Grips are also called
`preforms', since the are literally pre-formed for a thimble and spiraled
ends for wrapping.
Preforms are color-coded for EHS wire sizes. The coding is:
1/8" Blue
3/16" Red
1/4" Yellow
9/32" Blue
5/16" Black
3/8" Orange
The colored marks on the grip has two functions: 1) they indicates size
and 2) they mark the cross-over spot which is where you start wrapping the
legs around the cable. There are two crossover paint marks - the first is
for normal cable and the second (farthest from the termination loop) is for
use with insulators. The end of the cable of interest should extend at
least to the crossover marks. If they are longer and extend past the marks,
it is of no consequence. Wrap the first leg (either one) at least 2 wraps
around the cable. Then wrap the second one insuring that the wrap starts at
the crossover mark. Continue wrapping one leg until it is about 3/4 done,
then wrap the other leg to that point. Finish the short leg first, then the
longer leg. The grips are designed to be installed by hand so you may need
to bend the cable in order to seat the ends. Do not completely apply the
wrap - leave the last inch un-snapped into place until you are sure and all
your lengths have been adjusted. Trying to unwrap them (as you probably
have found) is a LOT easier is you don't have to use the pliers to get at
an end....oh, and one other thing...watch out for the loose flesh of your
finger tips and palms as - they can be pinched as the wrap snaps into place
creating some massive blood blisters! Attach a black tie wrap or end sleeve
to the end of the grip to prevent it from unraveling. Repeat as many times
as necessary.
The preformed grips can be removed and reapplied twice if necessary to
readjust guy wires. If removal is necessary after a guy grip has been
installed for a period longer than three months, it must be replaced. No
thimbles are needed when using an insulator. But be sure to use the SECOND
crossover paint mark when installing a preformed grip through an insulator.
If you use the first mark on insulators, the grip has too acute an angle
and puts more strain on it.
When you are ready to set the grip completely, use a flat sided that has a
square shank. Installation is much easier if you install the short leg
first, followed by the longer leg. The legs are different lengths to ease
installation. When you use the screwdriver to wrap that last turn onto the
EHS you should have the tip of the screwdriver bearing on the cable, NOT
the free end of the grip. You can do it either way, but when the tip bears
on the central EHS you cause the grip to follow the guy wire, and voila -
success. By putting the screwdrivers tip on the end of the guy grip you
will get that sloppy result where you have to push on the grip to get it to
seat properly.
Putting Preformed grips on Phillystran isn't as easy as installing them on
stiff EHS. I've found the best thing to do is to do only 3-4 inches or two
complete wraps at a time on both legs. It keeps the Phillystran from
bunching up which necessitates un-doing and re-doing it. The first leg goes
on with no problem. The thing that works the best on the second leg is to
push/bend the leg that you're winding on slightly towards the loop in the
grip. That is, pull the two legs apart as you're winding the second one
while you're turning it on and it should work better. If possible, put some
tension on it after the first few wraps.
The local tower guru also strongly recommends installing the metal "ice
sleeves" on the upper end of any grip that's installed so that water can
run down into the end of the wrap. Apparently the freezing of the water can
exert enough force to begin a sequential unwrapping (gets worse with each
freeze). They only cost a few cents apiece and drove readily on the end.
Tape wraps about the end of downward-pointing guy grips may not be the best
way to do this. On the upper end of the guys the tape creates a place for
water running down to accumulate, and stand, causing the guy wire to rust.
Preformed has what they call an end sleeve but is commonly referred to as
an ice cap. It is a small tapered sleeve where the little end is on the guy
wire and the bigger end goes over the end of the Preform grip. They're easy
to apply and their purpose is just what you described - that is, to keep
ice from getting under the grip strand ends and lifting (and unwinding)
them. There are other products (the Ice Knocker comes to mind) that are
bigger cones/devices that go over the guy wire and are supposed to shed any
ice coming down the guywire. You can also install cable clamps over the
ends of the grips to keep them from unwinding.
The purpose of the thimble is to keep a constant radius on the
termination. An insulator already has adequate 'seats' built-in and doesn?t
need a thimble. You won't find thimbles big enough to fit through the
insulators anyway so don't worry about it.
To clarify some confusion on thimble sizes:
1)If cable clamps are used to terminate guy wire, the thimble size is 1/16"
larger than the wire.
2) If preformed grips are used, the thimble size is 1/8" to 1/4" larger
than the wire. Pick the thimble that best matches the curve in the grip.
3) If 4000lb Phillystran is used with Preform Grips, the thimble is 7/16".
4) If 6700lb Phillystran is used with Preformed Grips, the thimble is 1/2".
5) If Phillystran is used with cable clamps (highly not recommended) use
one size smaller than above.
In all cases the heavy duty version of the thimble is used.
BREAKING UP STEEL GUY CABLE RESONANCES WITH INSULATORS
The following lengths between insulators have
resonances between the conventional bands
(which places their resonances in the WARC bands )
27, 40, 58, and 76 ft. (per ARRL Antenna Book)
You may want to make your wires slightly shorter to compensate for the
capacitive end loading of the loops through the insulators.
You need to place the first insulator as close to the tower as possible to
prevent coupling to continuous wire from one insulator, through the tower,
to another insulator.
For the first insulated section, It is a good idea to start with a short
piece of 10 to 12 ft between insulators. This length is substantially less
than 1/2 wavelength (WL) on 10M and will therefore be nearly invisible on
all frequencies below 28 MHz. For even better isolation, use two 10-12 ft
sections before going to longer spans.
TENSIONING
Rohn specifies that guys should be tensioned to 10% of the breaking
strength of the guy size that is recommended for a particular tower. One
rule of thumb is 8% if the guy is out at 100% of tower height, 10% if at
80% of tower height (standard Rohn drawings) and up to 15% if the anchor
point is at 65% of tower height. You lose a lot of wind load in this last
type of installation.
For Rohn 25, 3/16 EHS is recommended, having a breaking strength of 4,000
lb. Therefore, 400 lb. of tension is appropriate for Rohn 25 tower. The
primary failure mode for Rohn 25 is in compression of the legs, so it is
important not to over tension the guys, resulting in greater compression of
the tower legs.
1/4 inch EHS is has a breaking strength of 6650 lb. and the preload tension
should be 665 lb. for towers where Rohn specifies 1/4.
For Phillystran, there is some new information from the factory and it
looks like it doesn't stretch as much as it 'relaxes'. What they recommend
is that the Phillystran be initially tensioned to 15% of its ultimate
breaking strength and then over time, it will 'relax' to the 10% desired
tension. According to their chart, It goes from 15% down to 12% within
about 10 hours and then finally reaching 10% within 30 days (a guess since
their graph doesn't extend out that far).
The TIA-222 tower spec allows a tolerance of 1 part in 400 for tower
alignment; that's 3 inches per 100 feet so your tower doesn't have to be
perfectly plumb. Start with the bottom set of guys and an intermediate
tension around 100 pounds, verify the plumb (or pull into plumb) using a
long level (4-6 feet) and then adjust to the final tension. If all the guy
anchors are at the same level, you only have to measure one guy; they
should all be the same. Once you've got your intermediate tension and
plumb, it doesn't take much travel in the turnbuckle to get to the final
tension - maybe as little as 1 turn. Actually, using this method you don't
need much turnbuckle to adjust. Going from 100# to 400# tension might be
less than 6 turns of the TB, so there's not much problem with pulling the
tower out of plumb. Move up to the next set and repeat until finished.
Use your arithmetic measurement for how long the guy should be and then
make the piece of guy wire closest to the ground on that first one 10 feet
too long. Since you are splicing the guys by insulating them this first one
will give you a good feel for how close your arithmetic guesstimate is.
i.e. if you have ten feet too much your math is one hell of a lot better
than mine! I assume you are using a bolt cutters for cutting your
EHS...they can be had cheap at flea markets...you have seen them they have
the big long red handles and menacing black jaws. If you are using an AB
Chance or similar anchor into the ground/concrete you have a closed eye
that is your attachment point. You need to pass something through that eye
which will act as a place for you to attach a come-along. Depending on the
installation you use this will vary as you will need to try and avoid the
actual guy wire's path as best you can. If you have an equalizer plate you
can use an adjacent hole on the plate as an attachment point.
With the come-along and a Chicago grip (or another, second, guy grip
applied several feet up the guy wire) moderately tension the guy wire. I
say moderately so you don't pull the tower over or throw it out of plumb
from the start. Once the guys are moderately taught check the tower for
plumb, adjust the guy that needs to be tighter first and, if necessary,
later on you can let out the far side guy(s). If you can tighten that first
guy and bring the tower into plumb there is a good chance you will have
also tightened the other guys in the process. If increased tension does not
plumb the tower, then you should consider letting out on the other guys.
You will have a loose end pointing at your guy anchor with the come-along
doing the work. I recommend you have a turnbuckle there as it will allow
you to fine tune your adjustments later on. Start with the turnbuckle 3/4
out. With the force on the come-along, and the bottom side of the
turnbuckle attached to your anchor you know how long the wild end of the
cable needs to be. Cut it so that it corresponds to where it should end at
the high side of the turnbuckle. Trim it, and marry it to the turnbuckle's
upper end with a preformed guy grip. It should only take a couple of twists
of the turnbuckle at this point to transfer the load off the come-along and
onto the turnbuckle. It will take a couple of hits/misses for you to find
how far up the guy wire to attach your come-along/Chicago grip so that you
will not interfere with the turnbuckle, still be able to take up, and - be
able to reach that upper point! Don't make it too high.
We have had great luck with using the Loos gauge as a method for
equalizing the force on the guy wires. While it may not give an exact
number it does give you a repeatable number, strive to have all your guys
have equal tension (this assumes the end points are all the same distance
from the base of the tower, of course). If you are going into an equalizer
plate, remember that as the other upper guys attach to the plate it should
want to change its angle with respect to the ground as the later guys
attach to it. This creates a situation where the bottom set will be drawn
tighter than when initially installed. The best way to handle this is to
compensate for it by having several inches of extra take up on the lower
turnbuckle when it is originally installed so that they can be backed out
as the upper guys tighten, allowing the eq plate to rotate. I encourage you
to purchase a Chicago-Grip (the Florida Rednecks call it a Pork Chop...when
you see it you will know why) - this device when used with the come-along
makes the job of tightening the guy wires no big deal. Having a second
person is a big plus on this job as you can really zip from one to the
other with one guy in charge of attaching the hardware and the other in
charge of tightening, etc.....I recommend a Dad!
After you have done the first level (assuming you took my advice and got
that pork chop - don't leave home without it) you will zip through the
subsequent guy levels. If you are a member of a club you might want to
encourage the club to buy a pork chop for all the members to use. We have
used these techniques successfully, repeatedly. Oh yeah, one other thing -
the pork chop is a great way to grab the lower end of your tram line when
you are putting up your antennas....but, we will wait for you to ask
about that in a month or so :-)
Using preforms, you do not cut the turnbuckle end of the guy wire at all.
Just let it lay on the ground or coil it up if you like. Only when you are
sure your tower has grown tall enough would you cut the excess length with
bolt cutters.
Make sure you put a cable, or one of the long ends through all the
turnbuckles to prevent them from loosening. Also, loop a cable through all
of the thimbles (in a circle) in case one of the turnbuckles breaks. If you
are afraid of vandalism, you should put the loop through the centers of the
turnbuckles as well, rather than the loose end serving this purpose. The
advantage of using the loose end, is that tightening of the turnbuckles
requires less time, since no cable clamps need be removed.
To tighten the guys, I use a preform about 6' up each guy wire and a come-
along attached to the preform (lever end of come-along). The cable end of
the come-along hooks at a convenient place on the anchor or equalizer
plate. Make sure the tower is vertical to the first set of guys via 4'
level (what I use) or plumb bob (never tried this). Then, as long as the
first part of the tower is vertical, you can site up the legs to see which
way you need to go with the rest of the guys. There will be interaction
between adjustments of sets of guys.
GUY TENSION MEASUREMENT
USING LOOS BRAND TENSION METERS FOR GUYS
The best, easiest and cheapest way to measure guy wire tension is with a
LOOS guy wire tension gauge. It can measure 3/16 to 9/32 sizes, which is
perfect for hams. The LOOS guy tension gauge works on Phillystran about as
well as EHS wire.
Loos & Co., Inc.
Cableware Technology Division
900 Industrial Blvd.
P.O. Box 7515
Naples, FL 33914-7515
1-800-321-LOOS (5667)
1-813-643-LOOS (5667)
One friendly distributor, well known in some tower circles, is:
Champion Radio Products
http://www.championradio.com
LOOS model B calibration chart
SCALE 3/16 7/32 1/4 9/32
10 240
15 320
18 380
20 420 300
22 480 360
24 540 410 250
26 620 480 280
28 740 560 340
30 880 660 400
32 1080 780 480
34 1400 960 580
36 1210 680
38 1600 840 400
39 1850 940 460
40 1060 530
41 1210 600
42 1460 670
43 1800 750
44 850
45 980
46 1120
47 1330
49 2000
The Model B also works well with 5/16" guy wires if you file away a small
amount of the rivet that blocks 5/16" cable from entering the mouth of the
gauge. Currently, no data is available to create a calibration chart for
5/16" EHS.
Here is the calibration chart for the PT-2
------------------------------------
SCALE | 3/16" | 7/32" | 1/4" |
-----------------------------------|
13 | 300/6% | | 315 |
18 | 500/11%| | 385 |
21 | 640/14%| | 438 |
24 | 840/18%|500/8% | 500 |
28 |1240/26%|740/12% | 615 |
32 |1060/17%| 780/9% | 780/9% |
34 |1300/21%| 900/11%| 900/11%|
36 |1680/27%|1100/13"|1100/13%|
38 | | |1300/16%|
40 | | |2000/24%|
------------------------------------
CHECKING GUY TENSION BY COUNTING OSCILLATIONS
Here is an interesting technique that one person has described. He has 100
feet of Rohn 45 up and guyed like Rohn. What he did was install an "in
line" tension measuring device (dynamometer) and crank the tension to the
prescribed amount. Note that a Loos tension meter could also be used here.
He then set the guy wire into oscillation by gently pushing it sideways
with his fingers. It takes a dozen or so pushes to get it moving. He
carefully observed that it was not oscillating in more than one section
meaning that it was oscillating at its fundamental frequency rather than a
harmonic. The oscillations are slow, like one per second or so. He counted
them for one minute, timed with a stop watch, and recorded the number of
oscillations. The frequency will be different for each level of guy since
it depends on guy length, wire size, and tension so you have to install the
dynamometer at each level to determine the correct frequency for that set.
He then removed the dynamometer, reattached the guy to the tower and
tensioned it until its oscillation frequency was the same as before (this
is much simplified with the Loos-type clip-on tension meter). To check guy
tension now, all he has to do is check the oscillation frequency with his
stop watch against the numbers recorded originally. No computer. No
software. The key, of course, is to own (or borrow) a tension measuring
device. BTW, you can check the accuracy of the device you use by hanging
known weights from it.
THERMAL EFFECTS ON GUY TENSION
Guy tension can change from natural temperature induced
expansion/contraction. Here is the temperature change information relating
to ambient temp and guy wire tension at 10% of breaking strength (these are
the values for desired tension at different temperatures):
3/16 inch EHS
120 degrees F 300# tension
90 350#
60 400#
30 450#
0 500#
1/4 inch EHS
120 degrees F 500# tension
90 585#
60 665#
30 750#
0 830#
You can see that these are basically linear relationships. These figures
include the effect of tower height change. This information is taken from
the Rohn Tower Inspection Manual. So you can see that you need to
compensate for temperature. If the initial tension was done in the winter,
then they will 'loosen' up due to higher temperature expansion. But if you
use the above factors, the tension should be within spec for the whole year
no matter when the reading was taken.
When Phillystran introduced the new jacket material a couple of years
ago, they didn't have any Phillystran grips so they initially allowed using
cable clamps. Unfortunately there was deformation of the strands and cold
flow problems caused by the cable clamps. Now Phillystran Big Grips are
available and they are the ONLY termination devices approved by the
factory. Always do what the manufacturer specifies.
MEASURING TOWER PLUMB
Now that your guys are in place and your ready to fine-tune the guy
tension, you need to have a way of measuring how plumb your tower is. One
of the least sophisticated methods, yet highly effective and often
recommended is to use a plumb bob. Suspend one from the center of the tower
at the first guy point and adjust the guys to plumb this lower section of
tower. If your first tower section is embedded in concrete, use a long
spirit level to make the first section as plumb as possible before the
concrete cures.
The wind will tend to push the plumb bob around, depending on how heavy
the weight is. Place a bucket of water at the base of the tower (or
whatever will fit through the rungs) to dampen the swinging of the bob.
Once you get the first section (or lowest guyed sections(s)) plumb, you can
simply sight up the tower legs. Even slight bowing is readily apparent with
this method. A low-tech but very effective technique to check the plumb of
the higher sections is an extension of this same idea, using a portable
plumb bob. This can be improvised with some string and any heavy object.
Hang it from a tripod or ladder. Sit on the ground with the bob line
between you and the tower. Line up the edge of the string and the tower
with your eye to check plumb. Perform this from two positions, 90 degrees
apart from each other. For taller towers (over 120 feet), use a transit
from two positions, 90 degrees apart to sight the tower legs for plumb.
TEMPORARY GUYING
While assembling your tower, you will inevitably encounter stages of
construction where the tower extends above the last guy point. The first
few sections above the base won't have any guys at all, for that matter.
Temporary guys do not have to withstand the full loads that permanent guys
will take, such as wind. Assuming that you only assemble your tower when
the weather is fair, and that you will finish with permanent guys before
your construction session for each day is over, temporary guys can be much
lighter. The important thing is to choose a material that has very low
stretch, such as lightweight steel cable, or static-type rappelling rope
accessory cord, having kernmantle construction. Twisted polyester also has
very low stretch, compared to nylon. The typical nylon you get from the
hardware store will stretch. In any case, even ropes that stretch somewhat
are much better than having no temporary guys.
Most people seem to feel comfortable climbing two sections above the last
guy point. The more adventurous go three before adding temporary or
permanent guys. Some professionals feel comfortable climbing 4 sections
before attaching the next set of guys, but the sway becomes so great that
it would be extremely unnerving and disorienting for all but the most
seasoned climber. I think a good rule of thumb would be to use temporary
guys any time you are 20 feet (2 sections) or more above the last permanent
guy set.
For towers that start with an embedded base section, things are simpler.
Once the concrete has cured, you can climb the first section and add the
next, then attach temporary guys until you get to the next section and the
first set of permanent guys.
For pier-pin based towers, things are a little different. DO NOT CLIMB a
tower having a pier-pin base without having temporary guys in place! The
single bolt on the base plate is not designed to resist bending at all! The
way this is usually accomplished is by pre-assembling the first 2 or 3
sections of tower, complete with permanent or temporary guys, then standing
it up, setting it in place on the base, and attaching the guys to their
anchors. Only then can you start climbing.
TEMPORARY GUYS FROM EHS
With this method, you use the precut top set of permanent guys or some of
the same material from which your permanent guys are made. In either case,
you need spare grips that are matched to the size EHS cable that you will
use. If you pre-cut your permanent guys, use the top set of guys as
temporary guys. To accomplish this, partially attach the grips (3-4 turns)
on the tower ends of your top guys. Use carabiners or quick links (single
chain loops with a threaded fitting that opens on one side of the link) to
attach the grip to a tower brace. Use a partially attached grip through
your anchors to hold the other end of the temporary guy. As long as you do
not fully wrap the grips, you will be able to remove them. If you are using
guy bracket assemblies (stronger) to attach your guys to the tower, you can
go ahead and fully seat the upper grip ahead of time, since it will be
retained by a bolt on the assembly and will not have to pass around a tower
leg.
TEMPORARY GUYS USING ROPES
This method is easier and faster, since ropes are easier to work with than
the steel. The best rope to use would be kernmantle construction, low
stretch static rope, such as Blue Water II. 6 or 7mm climber's accessory
cord, such as PMI 6mm would also be acceptable. Obtain three lengths, each
long enough to reach from the anchors up to the highest guy point required.
Stuff (not coil) each rope into its own nylon ditty bag, and place the
bags adjacent to each tower leg. As an alternate, pile (again, do not coil)
each rope, hand-over-hand, on the ground next to each leg. Tie the upper,
free end of each rope to the corresponding anchor using a figure-eight
knot. Note that since the anchor eye is closed you will have to tie these
in a special way. Tie a single figure-eight first, with an extra long loose
end. Pass the loose end through the anchor, and `chase' it back through the
knot to complete it (see the knots references for more information on this
must-know technique).
Pick up each rope at the base and take them up with you as you climb. It
helps to clip a carabiner over them so that the rope can pay out straight
up from the ground, through the `biner, and out to the anchors as you go
up. You can also tie a tag line to the `biner, climb up, then pull the
anchor ropes up.
Once you arrive at the temporary guy position, separate and tie each rope
to the tower. To accomplish this, pull up some extra slack in each rope and
form a closed loop in the rope (this is called a bight). Keep the bight
closed and use it as if it were a free end. Pass the bight around a tower
leg, and tie a taught line hitch around the portion connected to the
anchor. Now, Boy Scouts, adjust your taught line hitch to apply tension to
your temporary guys. Alternately, if you have three ascenders (a one-way
sliding climbing device), you can simply attach the ascenders to the tower
with carabiners and pull the ropes tight through the ascenders to hold
tension. Once you have installed the next set of permanent guys, untie the
ropes and repeat as necessary. No one on the ground has to get involved,
and you control the tensioning process so you will not get jerked around
accidentally.
REPLACING EXISTING GUY CABLES
At some point in your tower's life, it may become necessary to replace one
or more guy cables for maintenance or repair, or even to increase their
size for more stability up top. Here's one method for getting it done that
uses a spare piece of EHS cable as a temporary guy.
The method varies depending on whether you are replacing a single guy or
all of them. Generally, you start by slacking up the guy cables at the same
level and above the lowest guy you want to replace. This removes much of
the compression in the tower during the procedure. As you work your way up,
you re-tension each set as they are completed, to completely stabilize the
tower before climbing up to the next highest set.
Don't be concerned about removing the tension. Loosen the just enough to
introduce noticeable sag such that if you pluck it, it will not oscillate.
In this condition, the tower cannot move far enough to do any harm and the
slack means that you will need far less tension in your temporary guy. This
is just like the stage when they are first installed. The tower can move
and inch or two, but it cannot get out of hand.
Do NOT disconnect any guys without a temporary, for safety's sake.
Make a temporary guy from a piece of 3/16 or 1/4" EHS and several matching
preformed grips. Be sure to use the grip size that matches the cable! Old
preforms can have a second life as temporary grips, just don't wrap all the
way to the ends. The next time you help a ham friend replace his guys or
dismantle and old tower, save a cable and some grips for your temporary guy
system.
XXXXXX E D I T I N G P O I N T E R XXXXX
I hauled up the temporary and looped the preform around a tower leg above
the old guy cable. This keeps it out of the way as you remove the old guy
and haul up the new.
I use an old, Rohn mast clamp on the anchor shaft to provide an auxiliary
hitching point for a come-along or a preform. It's the kind with two large
bolts, and two sets of cross bars adjusted with nuts, made for attaching
one vertical mast to another or to a tower leg with 6-8" standoff. I got
several at a hamfest for $1 each.
I installed a temporary grip at the bottom of the temporary guy about 6
feet off the ground. I slipped a hammer handle through the loop and had a
friend hang onto it and lean back with full body weight in the direction of
the anchor. While he holds it, I grab the tail and secure it with a
temporary grip to your hitching point. If you slacked the original guys
enough, you will have produced enough tension to replace the guy at your
point.
You can also just connect a come-along between the anchor and the temporary
grip if you need more tension.
At this point, Pete, you can replace the old guy cable, take up the slack
slightly with the new one, and release the temporary and go on to the next
one.
LIGHTNING ABATEMENT
LIGHTNING PROTECTION THEORY
This is a two-step process. First, you can prevent or reduce the static
buildup which allows the strike. Second, (preferably starting from a point
above your antennas) you provide a very low impedance path to a good ground
to handle the energy from strikes that you can?t prevent. There are several
companies that sell the equipment and monitors/alarms. Basically they sell
or install a good ground system, and a static dissipation system. A static
dissipator is typically a spike ball, really a bundle of sharp
spikes/wires, bent so the tips are at different angles, looks like a ball
at a distance. When the static charge between cloud and ground starts to
build the corona from the spikes prevents the charge for rising to a level
which would support a strike. The charged cloud passes over the protected
area without a strike.
A cone of protection is provided by providing a high strike point to
create a desired spot for a strike, but preventing a strike is still more
desirable. This can be accomplished by letting your mast extend above any
antennas. There will be some noise from the static discharge corona. There
is a company in Boulder, CO (I've don't remember the name) that
manufacturers the prevention equipment. That have sufficient proof that it
works.
Coiling your feedlines and control lines will add extra impedance to them
that will make lightning energy look elsewhere for a better path to ground,
such as your shield ground, MOV?s and your coax lightning arrestors at the
base of your tower.
HOMEBREW STATIC DISSIPATORS
One method is to use a piece of solid 1 1/4" aluminum bar stock, drill it
full of holes and cut up a bunch of old CB whips into about 200 6" pieces.
Spin one end on the fine grindstone to a sharp point, stick all of the
blunt ends into the holes (Snug fit) and, with a dull punch(like a nail
set) lock each one into its hole by a sharp rap on the punch at the top
edge of each hole. Then bolt the "Porky" ( it kind of looks like one!~)
to the top of the tower at the base of a mast or on an outrigger.
Another method, if you?re using steel EHS guys, is to simply leaving the
guy wire ends untrimmed at the top. Unfurl them and sharpen the points, and
aim them up and away from the tower.
Another very simple one can be home-brewed with a bundle of sharp wires
sharp on one end and stuffed, blunt end first, into a heavy electrical
terminal of good size(#4 or even as large as 1/0. A properly tightened set
screw and shaping the the wire into a ball like a "Porky," and it's ready
to attach to mast or tower top.
Frayed stainless steel wire rope (SA) would work, of course, if one
separated the wires completely and secured the ball with a low resistance
means on the way to a good ground. Any number of sharp points, from 1 up to
1000 is good.
Here?s another one. Go to Lowes and get some of that galvanized fence
wire, cut it into about 2 ft. lengths. Make sure that you cut the wire at
an angle, so that its pointed on the end. Then take a piece of 1 inch x 4
or 5 ft. electric conduit, cut some vertical slices into one end and spread
them apart slightly. Then jam as many peices of the fence wire in it as you
can. You only need to put the fence wire in a couple of inches. Clamp the
wire in the conduit with a stainless steel hose clamp. Then take your
handy-dandy torch and some good flux and solder the whole thing.
Now if you spread the wires out they will form a ball. It ends up looking
kind of strange. Make sure you bend the conduit at the bottom (where you
would attach it to the tower). The bend should be about 35 degrees.. so
that when attached it will stick out from the tower. Connect the "spline
balls" to the conductor mentioned above and thats it.
For static discharge problems across insulators, such as when an
electrical storm is in the area, drain resistors may help. Put some 100
Kilo ohm, 2 watts resistors across the points where it's arcing. The
resistors will keep the arcing from creating carbon tracks across the
insulators, and will help keep your (localized static generated) noise
levels lower.
GROUNDING FOR LIGHTNING PROTECTION
Nothing in a ground path should be attached by soldering alone -
everything should be clamped only. The reason is that a soldered connection
might heat to the point of melting and separating the connection if it is
required to carry a large amount of current. This then causes that joint to
have a relatively high impedance, causing the current to seek a different
path - one you might want it to take. Joints should be clamped first, then
soldered to preserve the best electrical properties.
I would put out a spread of 2 or more ground rods, spaced 16 feet apart,
and running heavy, bare wire from rod to rod. Even 1 extra rod will help
tremendously... if you don't have enough of a yard for a spread of rods,
then run them around the perimeter of the house. Studies show that a ground
rod will drain excess charge (in average ground) for a radius of (roughly)
8 foot. Putting the rods too much closer than 16 foot apart overlaps their
influence area. Conversely, much more than 16 foot will allow a significant
charge to build between rods. In dry, sandy soil you might close them in
about 25%, and in wet, highly organic soil, spread them out 25%.
In general a large diameter conductor is better than a smaller diameter.
a flat ribbon, 2" or 3" wide, cut from aluminum roofing flashing (copper
would be great, but expensive) will have lower inductance and be even
better. a parallel run of smaller conductors will also lower the inductance
per foot, compared to a single larger conductor. #6 gauge solid copper
should be considered a minimum size.
The ground wire should run over to and up the leg so that it makes a very
gentle angle; no right angles are allowed as they present a high impedance
point to the charge that's trying to get to ground.
The whole point of a ground system is to have all of the conductors at
the same voltage potential so that the voltages all rise and fall at the
same rate. If they have different potentials, then you'll get arcing and
damage. BTW, if your guywires are not insulated and not grounded, a
lightning strike will probably weld the turnbuckle threads together.
The consensus seems to be to connect ground straps to each of the three
tower legs and run them down like radials to at *least* three ground rods
adjacent to the tower base. The radials can be up to 50 feet long for
maximum effect, with appropriately spaced ground rods. Lightning energy
will not travel much beyond this distance. The radials and straps should be
buried below your local frost line, and at least 6 inches.
Again, the idea is to collect and/or dissipate charge from/to the earth.
a single ground rod alone cannot do this effectively. One rod saturates an
area around it radially out to a distance about equal to its depth.
Therefore, adjacent, 8 foot rods should be spaced 16 feet apart. Three rods
spaced to form an equilateral triangle, 16 feet on a side, around your base
would be a minimum start. The rods should also be connected to each other
in a ring with straps that would trace the circumference of this triangle.
This makes an effective connection to a *much* larger volume of earth. For
best performance, add 3 more rods for a total of 6 rods. Number 8 gauge is
a little small. One approach is to use 3/4 common copper water pipe for
ground rods and straps (HQ to the rescue!) to make most efficient use of
the copper, accounting for skin effect. Connect the ends by flattening
them, drilling holes, and joining with a copper split bolt, to keep all
similar metals. a joint compound with copper particles would be ideal
between mating surfaces (Penetrox E). This way there are no dissimilar
metals, promoting greatest longetivity for the joints. I'm not sure that
just soldering them together is good enough for underground service.
Here is some ASCII ART (view or print this with a monospaced font) to
illustrate:
o
|
|
|
o
/|\
/ | \
/ T \
/ / \ \
/ / \ \
|/ \|
s-------o-----------o
/ \
/ \
/ \
o o
This is not quite to scale, of course. "T" is your tower base. "o" is a
ground rod. The radials, tied to the tower legs, spread outward, with 8
foot deep ground rods connected every 16 feet. The first set of rods is
connected together to form a triangle. There should also be a ground strap
from this system to the ground system for your home (service entrance,
"s").
a separate wire from the lightning rod on top down to the ground system is
probably not required if there is good contact all the way through the
tower legs. For a crankup/foldover, you may need a jumper across pivot
joints or rollers, as these might not be reliable conductive paths like
bolted leg joints. Some companies insist on a separate copper conductor
running up the tower, which is the best way to absolutely assure a good
path, but I don't think this will be necessary in fixed towers.
All grounds are tied together, as you can see from the "art". Multiple
rods are what you are counting on to dissipate the strike current without
making it want to 'search' elsewhere for a ground path.
EXAMPLE TOWER GROUNDING METHOD FOR LIGHTNING PROTECTION
After perusing the load of messages in the archives about tower grounding
methods and materials, I used the following scheme to build a low-impedance
grounding system for my planned tower. In true Ham fashion, I improvised
with very commonly available materials wherever possible. Let me share this
method as one example of 'how-to' that I chose.
1) Use 1 ground radial per tower leg, 2 ground rods per radial, 6 rods
total.
2) On each radial, the 1st ground rod is spaced 8 feet from base, 2nd rod
24 feet from base (16 foot rod spacing). For better or worse, I did not
encircle the base with a ring.
3) Use 3/4" x 10' type L (heavy wall) common copper water pipe (about 80
cents/foot) for both radials and ground rods. This pipe provides lots of
smooth copper surface area for low impedance, yet enough total copper cross
section for current-carrying capacity.
4) Provide a flexible connection between the radials (rigid) and tower legs
using 2, 5/8" diameter by 3' long sections of flexible copper refrigeration
tubing in parallel. These come up out of the ground from the radial end,
and arc up, parallel to the tower leg, and are easy to bend, yet provide
lots of smooth copper surface area. Since the wall thickness is lower than
the 3/4" pipe, two in parallel are required for current capacity.
5) Make connections in the 3/4" pipe (radials & rods) by flattening the
ends, polishing with Scotchbrite abrasive pad (no metal wool!), and joining
with #6 size copper split bolts. A 1/2" through hole is just right for
these bolts. Since these bolts don't have much of a shoulder on them, they
must be modified. Modify the split bolts by flattening (in a vise) the 2
little staked 'wings' that capture the anvil (the little jaw that slides in
the slot) in the nut so that you can take the nut off and leave the anvil.
Put the bolt and anvil through your drilled hole from one side so that the
'T'-shaped anvil head helps provide a shoulder to keep the small bold head
from pulling through, and apply the nut, of course, to the other side. This
little exercise earns you a copper bolt to avoid dissimilar metals.
6) Use copper-filled antioxidant liberally on all the copper-to-copper
joints. An excellent source is Versachem anti-seize paste #13, available
from Advanced Auto parts. It comes in a container with a brush attached to
the lid and is a heavy grease LOADED with copper particles. Hey, you can
also use this stuff on fasteners in your engine! After bolting the
connections, seal the antioxidant in the joint with electrical tape such as
Scotch Super 88.
7) Drill weep holes vertically through radial pipes every 4 feet or so
before burying. You don't want steam-flashover during a strike to explode
your work (wouldn't it be neat to watch, though?)! I used shallow V-
trenches, 4 inches deep, for the radials.
8) Sink the ground rod pipes by making them into water drills. Flatten one
end to form a nozzle with about a 1/8" elongated opening. Solder a garden
hose adaptor assembly on the other end. I used 2 90 degree street els, a
pipe thread adaptor, a 1/4" lever valve, and a garden hose adaptor in my
assembly. Using the 30-40 psi water from my well pump, and twisting the
pipe like a drill bit, back-and-forth, while pushing down, I was able to
sink each 10 foot pipe in less that 5 minutes. Don't sway the pipe side-to-
side, or you will make the hole too wide. Use the minimum valve opening to
make it work, so you don't wash out too much dirt and compromise the
contact between the pipe and ground. Take it all the way below grade in
your trench, then raise it up 6" or so (tap it back down in the trench
later after connecting to radial). Then, cut off the water, cut off the
pipe with a tubing cutter just below the adaptor assembly, and carefully
desolder the stub so you can reuse the assembly on the next rod. Flatten
the end with 2 hammers for electrical connections per above.
9) Connect the flexible jumpers to the tower legs by first gently hammering
the ends flat against the leg to form a large, curved contact patch over 2"
long. Apply a piece of stainless steel shim stock over the tower leg, and
clamp the tubing ends over the shim with all stainless hose clamps. Use
Noalox on all surfaces as an antioxidant. Don't use the copper-filled stuff
between the stainless and the galvanized tower leg (bad metal combination).
I found a perfect source of stainless steel sheet metal by using the
tubular shaped element that comes in the flexible compression pipe
couplings used to join sections of abs pipe. These little jewels, also in
the plumbing aisle, have a tubular rubber boot, a stainless cuff,
(essentialy a rectangle of thin sheet formed into a tube), and 2 hose
clamps. Sorry, I don't know what they are called.
10) Extend one radial up to your house and tie it in with the service
ground. Bring the pipe above ground to an entrance panel for your cables.
Solder the pipe together above ground using tees. Since this section is
primarily for dissipating surges and not direct strike current, soldered
joints should hold up fine, and are easier to make. Leave the branch of the
tee open so the pipe cannot collect water. Stuff the branch opening with a
copper potscrubber to keep bugs out.
Ok, it was long, but I hope you enjoyed reading about how I went about the
grounding. Thanks to all who have contributed to the reflector and spawned
my ideas. I hope this post helps someone else build a good ground system. I
feel that this will give me much protection from lightning when a hit
occurs, and I will sleep better at night when those 2am boomers roll
through. Well worth the $200 or so I spent in copper.
Now, I am shopping for tower sections......
Mark, N1LO, Gloucester, VA
GROUNDING INSULATED TOWERS FOR LIGHTNING PROTECTION
1) Construct the ground system as before, using 1 ground radial per tower
leg, 2 ground rods per radial, 6 rods total.
2) Do not make a direct connection of each radial to the tower legs.....
Let me add to Tom's excellent post about providing a lightning protection
ground for an insulated tower. You would construct the grounding system
just the same as any other tower: a lightning ground to carry strike
current into a large volume of earth, outlined in previous posts.
The difference is, as Tom pointed out, that there is no direct connection
to the tower, but instead, a controlled air gap. The voltage induced by
your transmitter will not create an arc, but a static streamer or a direct
strike will easily ionize the air gap, jump it, and create a path for the
strike current to dissipate.
Since you disconnect when you are not operating, you can augment the
protection by applying booster cable clamps, or other easily implemented
shorts (invent one!), across the air gap, for full DC continuity and static
dissipation.
One easy way to create a discharge gap is to bend the end of a heavy ground
cable into a "V", with the point of the "V" aimed at the conductor to be
protected (tower leg). The sharper the point, the earlier an arc will form,
improving response time. The wire is bent closer to, or farther away from,
the other conductor to adjust the air gap. Open wire feedlines can also be
protected in this way, although some amount of surge will pass before the
gap arcs over. (The Wireman sells a device like this for ladder line that
uses a spark plug, I think).
These arcs have the potential to generate a lot of heat, depending on the
amount of current being shunted, and may perhaps vaporize or even melt
small conductors, especially during a direct strike (some day, Alice!).
Certainly, there will be some pitting. If you use a sharp point, you may
have to resharpen it. You might even be able to read the evidence of
discharges by examining pitting on the points. So you will know if that
overhead CRAAACK last night while you were in bed, hit your tower!
Does anyone have a feel for minimum sizes? I would offer an initial guess
that you should stick to a large size, maybe #6 gauge or more.
Using a parallel copper pipe as Tom suggests, certainly seems like a great
idea, since its extra mass will limit the heating during the brief
discharge, and provide more surface area for parallel discharge arcs,
reducing the overall inductance.
An AM broadcast tower in my area uses large, solid balls on either side of
such discharge gaps at the bases. I think there are three sets, and I have
a trusted source who maintains a repeater there, who tells me that you can
see arcs jumping on a regular basis in windy and stormy weather,
dissipating static charges. Neat stuff!
Hopefully
GROUNDING GUY CABLES
What I did was to use regular guy cable clamps to fasten short straight
lengths of guy wire to each guy near the anchor. The short pieces (4 in my
case because there are four levels of guys) are then clamped together in a
clamp designed for grounding a copper ground wire to galvanized water pipe.
These clamps are relatively cheap and designed to segregate the copper wire
from the galvanized pipe (wire). The bundle of guy wire stubs is put where
the water pipe would normally go. If you need to increase the effective
diameter of the guy wire bundle, you can insert short segments of extra guy
wire in the middle of the bundle as "shims". I put the pipe clamp about one
foot above ground and use a heavy copper ground wire from the small hole in
the clamp down to the ground rod.
While there are clamps made specifically for this application (they're a
little expensive), most people use regular cable clamps. Since you're
connecting a round object to another round object, you don't get a whole
lot of contact area; hence the aforementioned clamp blocks. Make sure you
don't have any sharp bends in the ground wire and have it drop straight
down to your ground stake and that should do it.
One word of caution. At some point you'll have dissimilar metals in contact
(steel and copper). Since attaching the copper wire to your guy wire will
cause long-term corrosion to occur (interestingly enough, usually ONLY the
strand that is in contact with the copper as it washes off the galvanized
coating), use steel wire attached to the guy and move the steel to copper
contact point to the ground stake. As always, use an appropriate
anti-oxidant material on all joints.
If the purpose of guy wire grounding is for lightning protection,
soldered connections are good for ONE hit. After that, the solder has been
melted and you don't have a connection anymore. The only acceptable ground
wire connections allowed by the NEC are either compression (like a clamp)
or
exothermic (like a cadweld). Using solder introduces yet another dissimilar
metal to your guywires. This
is another situation that is not recommended.
GROUNDING FEEDLINES
Yes, all coax lines should be grounded to the tower at the antenna and At
the base of the tower before the cable goes into the conduit or Before it
goes into a junction box. Yes, use feedthroughs (or better, a PolyPhaser
lightning arrestor) and use pl-259s on the cable. Then water proof the
connections.
You must establish a single point ground, preferably just outside your
shack outside wall. PolyPhaser goes into detail on this in their "grounds
for lightning protection" book.
Simply burying the cables help reject the pickup of additional rf energey
from nearby strikes in the section that is buried, but by itself, burying
is inadequate.
If you really want your cables to be protected, they should be grounded at
the top of tower where the cable run begins, grounded at the point at which
they leave the tower and turn towards the building and then grounded at the
building entry where your Single Point Ground System bus resides. THEN you
can consider your cables protected. Note: I'm skipping the part about the
rest of the ground system.
Merely disconnecting your cables is a false hope. An average direct
lightning strike won't think twice about jumping from the end of your
disconnected cables to another convenient place that offers a lower
resistance path to ground. It could be the adjacent radio, telephone,
computer, the cable on your TV, etc. The main thing that you're trying to
do is to keep the lightning transient OUT OF THE HOUSE in the first place.
If you do a good job of that, it really doesn't matter what you do IN the
house. By having your cables in the house unprotected but disconnected,
you're still inviting that massive voltage and current into the house.
Eight-pin connectors allow you to disconnect the cables from the boxes
within seconds (easy slip in - slip out connectors) anytime you are leaving
the operating position or whenever you hear distant rumbles of thunder
heralding an approaching storm.
Each wire going into/out of your shack must be protected, in some way, from
lightning. That means a dc-blocked unit in series with coax cables, shields
shorted to ground at the antennas and at the base of the tower and at the
single point ground, and other lines (control lines) parallel connected to
MOV?s to ground at the base of the tower. PolyPhaser sells the latter too.
I have every control line connected to a PolyPhaser antenna control
lightning protector (MOV unit) inside the box at the base of each tower.
The PolyPhaser unit has eight (8) wire capability per unit. You must verify
that your operational voltages (rotor control, relay control voltages) do
not exceed the threshold voltage of the MOV?s. The MOV voltage can be
specified to PolyPhaser for unique applications.
As an additional measure of protection, recommended by Polyphaser, you can
add MOV?s to tower ground at the top of the tower for those control lines
that are the upper most lines on the tower. That is, the highest
antennas/rotors/relays on the tower have another set of MOV?s to ground at
their mounting point on the tower.
COMMERCIAL FEEDLINE GROUNDING CLAMPS
Take a look at the grounding blocks offered by Industrial Communications
Engineers (ICE) in Indianapolis. They are heavy machined aluminum blocks
that clamp around up to 4 coax shields with a mating ground bar to attach
to the tower. First, you remove about 1 inch of the coax jacket of each
feedline. Then you apply the supplied anti-corrosion compound to smear
between the braid and the clamp. Last, you close the clamp and attach the
assembly to a tower leg. Each block can handle up to 4 coax's and there are
2 models - one for RG8x type and one for the larger stuff (9913 etc).
ICE also has other goodies-preamps; "lightning arrestors" for coax, open
wire, phone lines, and control cables; and transformers to use surplus
75-ohm TV hardline.
ICE - Industrial Communication Engineering
1-800-ICE-COMM/ (800) 423-2666
HOMEBREW FEEDLINE GROUNDING CLAMPS
One method for coaxial cable starts with a piece of 3/4 inch aluminum plate
about 2 inches square. Drill the appropriate size hole through the plate
for the outer shield (you have to strip a short section of the outer
insulating jacket). Then flip the piece 90 degrees and drill two 11/32
holes on each side of the center hole and perpendicular to it through the
edge of the plate for the 5/16 inch clamp/mounting bolts. Then saw the
whole thing in half and the saw cut provides about the right crunch.
Depending on where it is going, you can make the clamp/mounting spacing fit
a U bolt and then grind/file radius to fit tower leg. When clamping to a
tower leg, use a stainless steel bolt, and a thin piece of stainless sheet
(machinist?s shim stock) between the aluminum block and the galvanized
tower leg with lots of anti-ox compound. Also apply anti-ox to the socket
where the clamp grips the coax. Then seal the clamp, leg and cable like it
was a coax joint to keep the water out. No moisture means no electrolysis.
It is cheap and takes about 15 minutes to make with a drill press, band saw
and grinder.
Another method is simply to cut the coax at the grounding point and install
PL-259's on each end. Join them with a barrel connector. Us the silver
plated types, please. This provides an exposed electrical terminal for the
shield. Make a strap from a thin piece of stainless steel sheet and clamp
the exposed silver to the tower leg. Apply anti-oxidant compound first, of
course, and then weatherproof the joint.
Here's another method. Strip off the jacket for an inch, and lay a 1/2 inch
wide copper foil along the braid with two flying (free) ends.
Tightly wrap the shield to the foil with a single flat layer of thin CLEAN
solid buss wire, about number 22, and flash solder the wire ends in
place.
Then weather-proof the whole joint. The copper foil leads hanging out can
be grounded to the tower leg or entrance panel. When connecting the copper
to a dissimilar metal, apply antioxidant compound and separate the two
metals with a piece of stainless steel sheet or shim stock.
A method that does not break the coax should be more reliable than adding
two connectors and a barrel, especially if one is careful in the
weatherproofing stage of the process.
ASSISTING FEEDLINE AND CABLE GROUNDING WITH CHOKE COILS
Form a coil of several turns in each cable just before the cable passes
through the entry panel of the shack. This is just like an air-core balun
that you would make at the feedpoint of a dipole. This coil, commonly
referred to as a `solenoid coil' or `choke coil', forms a high impedance to
lightning-induced energy (mostly RF) and helps force this energy into the
grounding points up stream at the tower. The coil is no longer the `path of
least resistance', or in this case, the `path of least reactance.' This
also will choke off other sources of coaxial feedline radiation and EMI
interference.
HOMEBREW GROUNDED ENTRANCE PANEL
Here is one approach to protecting your gear from lightning. You can make a
'grounding switchboard' that fits in a window. The approach is simplistic,
inexpensive, and effective, based on the following goals:
1) Disconnect of all conductors between tower and shack when not operating.
2) Shunt all conductors from the tower to a low impedance ground when not
operating.
3) Allow varied rig/antenna connections.
4) Isolate gear from ground when not operating.
5) Do not operate during threatening weather.
6) Develop a habit of always disconnecting after operating.
7) Don't spend too much money!
8) Don't drill holes in your walls and aggravate the XYL!
9) Have fun building something that really works!
Here is the scheme, in summary:
1) Install a conductive panel in a window.
2) Bond the panel to the electrical service and tower ground system (single
point) with a low impedance conductor, such as copper pipe or wide strap.
3) Connectorize and label all cables coming into the shack.
4) Make shorting plugs that mate with the connectors and shunt all
conductors to the panel. They should be quick "push-on" types so it will be
easy enough that you will actually *use* them! :~)
5) Make choke coils in the conductors between the tower and shack.
In practice, the switchboard is real easy to use - which is a key element
in human habits! Just reach over to the panel, pull the shorting plugs out
of the jacks you want to use, and plug in your jumpers. At this point, the
rigs also become grounded through the shields of the jumpers. It's
essentially a switchboard, too, so you can connect any rig to any antenna.
When done, pull off the jumpers and push on the shorting plugs. Rigs become
ungrounded and present no path to stray lightning energy.
You can build an insert for one of your shack windows. It consists of a
rectangular, 1/8" thick aluminum plate (try 5052-H32 soft temper, easy to
drill, from an *old* road sign <uhh- *sheepish grin*>), framed with
pressure treated lumber. Rabbet the edges of the frame with a router to fit
the contours of the sill and the sliding operator such that the insert is
captured and secured when the window is closed on it. Paint the frame with
a suitable primer and paint to match your window. Add some self-stick
weather-stripping "V" tape to complete the seal.
Install Amphenol UHF female bulkhead connectors in the plate for each
coaxial cable desired, plus spares.
Make a rain shield from a piece of 1/16" aluminum or stainless sheet. Mount
it with screws to the upper frame piece on the outdoor side. Make it long
enough and bend it out such that even rain coming down at an angle can't
hit the connectors.
For each wire antenna fed with open wire line, install two bulkhead
connectors and use shielded parallel lines from two conductors of RG-58
(see ARRL antenna handbook). If you like remote baluns, you can get by with
a single connector and one coax.
For rotors and switchbox control cables, use 6 or 8-pin, molded trailer
connectors. You can make a clip that retains the tower side connector in a
cutout in the panel.
Make insulation panels from pieces of celotex sheathing. Use the kind that
has aluminum foil bonded to the outsides for a nice look. Cut holes in the
sheathing for each connector and glue one to each side of the aluminum
panel.
Acquire some PL-259 quick 'push-on' adapters. These have an SO-239 female
connector on one end and a PL-259 male connector on the other. However, the
threaded female ferrule on the male side has been replaced by a springy,
slotted sleeve that allows the fitting to be pushed on to another SO-239.
To make these into shorting plugs, solder L-shaped pieces of 12 gauge
copper wire into the center sockets of the female UHF side of the adapter,
with the short legs soldered to the edge adjacent to the threaded part.
Don't let the short legs jut out past the threads. Then, using a vise,
press 2" long pieces of 1/2" PVC over the threads on the female sides,
making short, insulating handles. Then, fill the PVC cavities with hot melt
glue. Paint them, if you like, for a neat look.
You can make a shorting plug for the rotor or switchbox cables using mating
connectors. Solder all the wires from the connector (wires are already
molded into it) into one large copper cable lug and bolt the lug to the
panel. When you mate the connectors, all of the conductors are shunted to
the panel.
Next, make jumpers of RG-8X for every single antenna connection for all of
your rigs and put push-on adapters on the panel ends. Make a jumper for the
rotor or switchbox using a short length of control cable and the mating
connector for the one in the panel. Label and color-code all ends.
Put a little silicone grease on the quick disconnects and connector pins.
One cheap source is dielectric boot grease at an auto parts store.
You can ground your panel to ground using 3/4" common copper water pipe for
its large, smooth surface area. If it is convenient to run your cables
alongside the ground pipe, as in the case of a second story shack window,
install 8-10" stub legs in it using "T"'s every few feet to cable tie the
hardlines and coaxes to it for support. To attach the pipe to the panel,
hammer the pipe flat and bend it over at a right angle. Drill holes in it
and the panel for 1/4" stainless bolts. Don't forget to use pieces of
stainless such as washers or foil, plus antioxidant paste, wherever the
copper and aluminum mate.
GROUND ROD METAL SELECTION
The corrosivity of the soil is another important issue. One should measure
the pH of the soil, preferably at the depth at which the grounding system
is to be installed. The pH testers sold at spa and swimming pool places
will suffice for ascertaining whether your soil is acidic or alkaline.
Other kits, designed specifically for soil testing, may be found in lawn-
and-garden shops (check Home Depot) and feed-and-seed type businesses such
as Southern States. Dig down to the area where your grounding system will
be (generally 6-18" or more depending on how far the soil freezes during
the winter) and collect a small sample of dirt in a container that you have
thoroughly cleaned and rinsed with distilled water. If you are using a
pool/spa type kit, take some of your sample dirt and put it in the test
tube with some distilled water, shake it up, and test with the strip. If
you bought a kit designed for soil, follow the instructions that came with
your kit.
If your soil is acidic (most of the eastern US is), you want to go with
galvanized, tin, or aluminum-clad products because the acid will attack the
copper. If your soil is alkaline, however, you want to avoid galvanized,
tin, and aluminum grounding components because those metals are quickly
attacked in that environment.
If you are installing galvanized towers and galvanized guy anchors side by
side with copper ground rods, then it looks like you're creating an
electrochemical corrosion cell, and accelerating the already corrosive
effects on the galvanized steel. So unless you're using copper for towers
and copper for guy anchors, I'd use the SAME material as the guy
anchors/towers for ground rods driven within several feet of the anchors.
Yes, they'll corrode. But won't they corrode anyway? And wouldn't it
corrode faster if dissimilar metals are used as you pointed out seeing in
pipes that were side by side? And would it not be better for the ground rod
to corrode than the guy anchor holding up your towers? It's a hellava lot
easier to replace ground rods than anchors!
It's the copper rod that causes the galvanized steel anchor to corrode at a
faster than normal rate. It is clear there is a BIG problem in some areas
with corrosion. It's probably OK to use copper rods (with tinned copper
wire) in most places in the antenna system like for the interconnecting
grounding between ham shack, AC, telco, tower radials, and so on; however,
you should definitely consider using galvanized steel rods for the
grounding of guy wires near galvanized steel guy anchors and maybe the
tower base, at least in certain parts of the country.
SINKING GROUND RODS
To drive ground rods the traditional way, try a steel ?T? fence post
driver, available from a farm-supply store or fencing distributor.
a faster way is to rent an electric jackhammer that has a chuck that will
fit around the top of your ground rod. The ?water method? is an easier way
to sink ground rods than just wailing on them (or your knuckles) with a
maul. a bucket full should do the job. Dig a small hole where the rod is
going and pour a quart of water in the hole. That way you can keep the hole
full and it will self- feed the water down along the ground rod. Don't
get in too big of a hurry doing this job. Let the soil have time to soak up
the moisture. Ram the rod up and down by hand. Somewhere around the four
or five foot depth, pull the ground rod all of the way out and fill the
hole again. Go get a cup or coffee or a soda and let it soak for 10 or 15
minutes. From that point on, you will not need anymore water. You may
need to take a hammer and drive in the last two feet. Wear some gloves
because blisters will appear quickly and be cautious when pushing the rod
in on top of the water else it will squirt back at you with vigor.
IMPROVING GROUND ROD EFFECTIVENESS
There is a mix of chemicals to be used for grounding electrode
backfill that promotes excellent contact with ground, possibly even
available as premix in bags. It is possible to have a drilling
company buy the separate components for you and mix them on site.
The formula is:
75% Gypsum
20% Bentonite Clay
5% Sodium Sulfate
This is available from galvanic protection distributors and is known as
"standard galvanic anode backfill". I'll know for sure in a day or two.
These items are all dry powders, and mixing them on a windy site is
difficult. Anyhow, it works this way... The gypsum absorbs and retains
water. So the moisture level seen by the bentonite in the mix does not
vary enough to cause the shrinkage problems. The Gypsum has very little
expansion or shrinkage due to external moisture level variations and it
improves the conductivity of the mix. There is enough bentonite so that the
expansion of the bentonite still operates to pressurize the electrode and
hole walls for good contact. For this to work, the mix must be put in dry
and then have moisture added. The sodium sulfite is probably not strictly
necessary in a system with no continuous source of DC current for the earth
terminal. But it helps prevent polarizing the earth terminal if there is
some DC flow.
CLIMBING GEAR
CLIMBING BELT
Climbing is arguably the most dangerous activity you will ever engage in.
It is probably more dangerous, statistically, than driving your car. The
most common home accident is falling off a ladder. However, if you have the
right equipment, climbing your tower will be much safer than climbing the
familiar ladder because you will be hooked in to your tower 100% of the
time. The safest, most comfortable, and most versatile type of climbing
belt is a seat harness type that has the following features:
1. Positioning D-rings. One at each hip, for use with a positioning
lanyard that goes around or through the tower, that is rigged once
you reach your work position.
2. A suspension D-ring ring, in the center, just above your navel, for
your "cowtails", a V-shaped, double ended climbing/suspension lanyard
that you use to hook yourself in while you climb, or when you hook to
a single place such as a mast or climbing rope.
3. If you are a professional tower climber, you will need to follow OSHA
requirements for your harness. In this case, you will have to have a
"fall arrest' type harness, typically having a full body arrangement
and a specific, fall-arrest ring between your shoulder blades.
4. Wide straps around your legs and under your seat, that let you sit
and take the weight off of your feet. Loads on the center D-ring from
suspending, or short falls, are not applied to your lower back.
5. A belt around your waist having accessory loops for tool buckets and
carabiners. It's great to have one for tools, another for parts, and
another for snacks and/or drinks (a break in the middle of a work
session works wonders!).
6. Lightweight. Most are made of nylon and already are. Stay away from
leather belts which are no longer approved by OSHA. The leather can
dry out and become seriously weakened without appearing to be.
7. Easy to get into and out of, and comfortable to wear for long
periods.
8. Cost. Can you place a cost on your life? Medical bills? Permanent
disability? For God's sake don't fool around with ordinary garment
belts and dog leash chains! A harness with the above features can be
had (in 1998) for between $100 and $200, the best insurance you will
ever buy! Isn't that cheap, in the grand scheme of things? You will
**feel** safer on the tower, and more at ease, allowing you to
concentrate on your work, making you even safer.
The best harness I have seen for this purpose is a cross between the
mountaineering/caving style and the industrial work positioning style. It
is the Navaho Vario, part #C79, made by Petzl.
See Petzl on the web at: http://petzl.com
They have a technical reference page at http://www.petzl.com/FRENG/toc.html.
You will have to download their work/rescue catalog supplement in PDF
format from http://www.petzl.com/work/work.html to see the description of this
versatile harness. This harness gives you a tremendous degree of freedom
since it has no shoulder straps to confine your upper body and chafe your
neck. It is also one of the easiest to put on.
Some tower climbers are switching to the OSHA-approved, full fall arrest
harness with positioning belt D-rings, such as the model #3520 by
DBI/SALA. It has the positioning rings at the hips, a chest ring for
suspension, and a fall arrest ring in the back. You have all sorts of
options here. It's safer than the simple old lineman's belt because you
have a second, fall arrest lanyard that is attached to the tower in
addition to your positioning lanyard. However, with this design, the
fall arrest D-ring is on the back, between your shoulder blades, and the
fall arrest lanyard is longer and less convenient to work with. If you
do fall, you won't go far, but you will be jerked around more violently
than the shorter cowtails arrangement that connects in the front.
SOME THOUGHTS ABOUT FALL ARREST
Again, for industrial/professional use, you will need an industrial
"fall arrest' rated harness to comply with OSHA (Occupational Safety and
Health Association)regulations. Amateurs maintaining their own towers do
not have to be OSHA compliant. This is an example of an industrial
requirement that, although it may save your life, still only comes in to
play *after* you have begun to fall, and may still leave you with
injuries.
There are many different types of harnesses available for different
applications. Although harnesses designed for mountain climbing, caving,
rescue and industrial suspended work are not specifically designed for
tower climbing, and may or may not be OSHA approved, they are also,
nonetheless, designed to protect the wearer's life and, wherever
possible, to *prevent* a fall from occurring. Your climbing methods and
equipment should be tailored to prevent a fall in the first place. The
ultimate decision is up to you, to determine which product keeps you the
safest, and how much risk you are willing to take when climbing. Again,
in all matters, *you* are the one who is the most in control of your own
safety. A complete understanding of the risks you take and the solutions
available to you is the best tool at your disposal.
CLIMBING LANYARDS
OK, now that you have a good harness, on to lanyards. Here are the three
most useful types:
1. A cowtails lanyard, attached in the front, with two, 20-30" tails and
two hooks, that you use to hook yourself in 100% of the time you are
above the ground. Imagine the shape of the letter "V": the bottom
vertex of the "V" connects to your front suspension ring, and the two
free ends connect to whatever you are suspended from. This lanyard is
similar to the one used by rock climbers, mountaineers, and cavers,
where the term originated, except that both legs are the same length.
Typically you would make your own from a good quality, `dynamic'
(stretching) climbing rope, and use 3, readily available, locking
carabiners for the attachment points, tied on using figure-eight knots.
When you use this lanyard properly, alternating the hook points in a
leapfrog method as you move up or down, you can't fall more than a few
inches if you slip or lose your grip, limiting the shock and injury
potential to a minimum.
2. A fall arrest lanyard, attached in the back, having a single, 36-72"
line and hook that is designed to slowly break your fall. Typically, it
is constructed with fan-folded, stitched web that rips open in a
controlled way to absorb the energy of your fall as it pulls tight.
Obviously, its shock absorption capability is destroyed by any fall and
must be replaced. These cannot be homebrewed, are harder to find, but
are available commercially. If you lose your grip you will fall far
enough to develop enough momentum for a serious jerk! Since the fall
arrest ring in a full body harness is behind your back, you will be
pitched forward into the tower, putting you at risk for a head injury
if you are not also wearing a helment. If you use this method, you must
keep your fall arrest lanyard clipped as far overhead as possible to
minimize your fall.
3. A positioning lanyard. This is a single line, 30-40" long, fixed or
adjustable, having a hook at each end. The positioning lanyard goes
around or through the object you are climbing and clips on to the D-
rings at your hips to steady your torso while you are working. This is
the lanyard most people are familiar with, the strap that linemen and
loggers use to place around a pole or tree. These are readily available
commercially, but are most easily homebrewed with a length of `static'
(non-stretching) climbing rope and carabiners, tied on using figure-
eight knots. You can make more than one with different lengths
inexpensively, for use with different size towers.
CARABINERS
Carabiners are the handiest devices for climbers. They are sort like an
oversized, oval-shaped single link of chain, where one side of the link is
hinged to allow it to open and form a hook, and then snap closed again. The
swinging portion is called the gate. Carabiners come in a variety of
shapes, and fall into two basic classes: locking and non-locking. The
locking variety use a small threaded, or spring loaded ferrule that screws
over the joint in the gate to prevent it from opening if the carabiner is
pressed against another object.
You should always use the locking type carabiners for your personal
safety lanyards. One particularly fast type of locking carabiner uses a
spring-loaded ferrule that releases the gate only after a quarter-turn
twist. This type can be opened very quickly with a simple, but deft move of
the fingers of one hand to both rotate the ferrule, and press the gate open
in the same movement, yet remain immune to accidental openings after
locking. This type is called the auto-locking carabiner, and is
particularly well suited to personal lanyards. My favorite auto-locking
carabiner, which uses the above twist-locking scheme, is the HMS Munter
Auto-lock by Omega (available from Rock `n' Rescue).
Non-locking carabiners are handy for hooking ropes, loads, and gear
together. They're faster and far more trustworthy than a hasty knot tied by
an inexperienced person on your ground crew. Miniature carabiners are also
handy only for hooking small tools to your harness for work up the tower.
CLIMBING SAFELY WITH HARNESS AND LANYARDS
Again, your climbing method should be tailored to prevent a fall in the
first place, whenever possible. When you work on your tower, you need a
combination of two lanyards: the cowtails or fall arrest lanyard to keep
you hooked in while climbing, and the positioning lanyard. Don't be tempted
to use a positioning lanyard by itself and simply drag it up the tower as
you climb. Although it is safer than free climbing, if you lose your grip
or foothold, you can still slide all the way down to the next antenna, guy
attachment point, or the ground, whichever comes first, gathering momentum
and most likely injuring yourself as you try to grab back onto the tower.
Even worse yet, DO NOT FREE CLIMB if you can possibly avoid it! It's fast
and very tempting. As far as climbing a tower goes, when you climb with no
safety equipment attached to the tower, it is known as "free climbing". In
the workplace, it is illegal per OSHA rules to free climb and you're
supposed to be attached to the tower 100% of the time. Since people working
on their own towers or anyone doing tower work for free are not subject to
OSHA rules, your own method is up to you. Don't take unnecessary risks!
Imagine having a dizzy spell or muscle cramp coming down a tower - you want
to be attached at all times. Although climbing with lanyards is much
slower, you are **so** much safer. If you are in a hurry, then you
shouldn't climb anyway. It's a compromise you can live with.
When you climb up with a fall arrest lanyard, start by hooking it above
you. Climb up above the hook, stop, reach down, unhook the lanyard, re-
hook it above you, and repeat. Notice that you are hooked most of the
time but not while you are repositioning the hook. If you slip at this
point, you are gone. To stay connected to the tower 100% of the time,
you have to thread another lanyard, such as your your positioning
lanyard, around the tower while you reposition the fall arrest lanyard.
Pretty slow, but you stay 100% connected. When you need a rest, you must
hold on with one arm while you set your positioning lanyard around or
through the tower, and hook it before you can lean back and fully rest.
However, if your fall arrest harness is not too long, you could possibly
climb down or bend your knees to transfer your weight to the lanyard,
and "hang" in your harness to rest. This isn't always too comfortable.
When you climb using cowtails, start by hooking one tail above you. Climb
up above the first tail, hook the second tail above you, reach down, unhook
the first tail, and repeat. Notice now that you are hooked **100%** of the
time, even while you are repositioning each hook. When you need a rest,
simply bend your knees to transfer your weight to the upper tail and you
can "sit" quite comfortably to rest at a moment's notice! When you get
where you're going on the tower, you can clip both tails at the same brace
and remain partially suspended while you work. If your cowtails are just
the right length, your weight will divide between your feet and the
lanyards. Notice here, that since the lanyards are already taught, and your
feet are placed, you *cannot* fall at all. This is fall prevention at its
best. Then, of course, you still have your positioning lanyard, which you
carry up with you, and you can connect this to your side rings for the
ultimate stability.
CARRYING TOOLS
You can purchase or make pouches for carrying tools and parts with you up
the tower. This keeps your hands free for climbing at all times. A pouch
fixed to your harness is handy enough, but you still have to reach around
your side to retrieve the tools or parts. See the sources section for
places to purchase these. For convenience, you can remove the pouch from
your harness and clip it to the tower adjacent your your work area, to keep
things ready at hand.
HOMEBREW TOOL AND PART POUCHES
You can make a nice tool pouch that is especially well suited to tower work
with a minor adaptation of readily available tool pouches. In my case, I
purchased a 10-pocket, suede tool pouch from Wal-Mart. Cut a piece of 1/2"
diameter wooden dowel to the same length as the belt loop in the pouch.
Insert the dowel through the belt loop right at the top and secure this in
two places by driving short tacks through the loop from the back side into
the dowel. Next, pinch the loop tight around the dowel and cut a vertical
slit in the leather just below the dowel, at the balance point. Attach an
oval carabiner at this point and orient it such that it hooks through the
pouch, around and under the dowel, and the gate faces away from the front
of the pouch.
Now, you can easily clip this pouch onto your harness as you climb, then
remove it and clip it to a horizontal tower brace right at your work
position. Since the backside of the pouch is flat, it fits very nicely at
your side or on the face of the tower. Make a second one for parts.
ROPES & KNOTS
The venerable bowline has, heretofore, probably been the most widely used
knot for forming a loop. However, the figure-eight knot is now gaining more
general acceptance as the knot of choice for those who trust their lives to
rope in fire, rescue, and recreational climbing activities. The figure-
eight knot is easier for most people to tie, has a larger bend-radius
(stronger), is more resistant to self-untying, and yet is easier to untie
than the bowline after strain-tightening. Use the figure-eight to tie ropes
off to objects, form loops in the ends of ropes, attach carabiners, or for
a stopper knot on the free end of a rope.
Along with the figure-eight, the prussic knot is also indispensable. It is
related to the taut-line hitch and has a remarkable capacity to grab onto a
vertical rope, pipe or mast without slipping. The knot will not slip when
tension is applied to the free loop, yet it can be slid back and forth
easily by pushing directly on the knot itself. A prussic loop is a 12-18"
diameter loop of smaller, 6mm cord, formed by tying the ends of a single
piece (around 48" long) together using fisherman's knots, forming a simple
rope ring. Make up several prussic loops and keep them on hand. Grab a loop
and tie it around the rope or pipe or mast you want to lock onto, for the
prussic knot, and use the resulting short loop as an attachment point for
your carabiner. This technique is extremely useful, for instance, to set a
pulley on your mast to use for tramming an antenna or other hauling
purposes, where there are no braces to hook a carabiner. You can also use
the prussic to anchor your cowtails or fall arrest lanyard.
Here are a couple of excellent places on the web to learn how to tie these
useful knots and more:
The Cave Training Manual (last known location):
http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/~styms1l/cave/
The Roper's Knots Page:
http://www.realknots.com/
Some good places to purchase harnesses, ropes, carabiners, and other
climbing gear:
REI outdoors
http://www.rei.com
http://www.rei-outlet.com
Inner Mountain Outfitters
http://www.caves.org/imo
Rock `n Rescue
http://www.rocknrescue.com
MAKING YOUR OWN LANYARDS
COWTAILS LANYARD
Obtain a 115 inch long piece of 10.5mm dynamic climbing rope. That seems
like too much rope, but figure-eight knots use quite a lot of rope. It's
possible to use a non-stretching rope, but the dynamic type will produce
less shock if you fall. The figure-eight knots will also absorb shock as
they tighten during a fall. Fold the rope in half and tie a figure-eight
knot in the center, forming a small eye loop for your center carabiner.
This is the vertex loop that attaches to your center suspension ring on
your harness. Attach a locking-type carabiner to the vertex loop (a screw-
locking type is best here, since you won't be opening it often). Now tie
figure-eight loops in each end, for the climbing hooks. You should leave
about 3-4 inches of excess in the loose end of the knot for now. Attach
auto-locking carabiners to these end loops. Now put on your harness and
take the cowtails lanyard over to your tower. Hook the vertex on to your
suspension ring, and hook one tail to a tower rung. Climb up a little and
hook the remaining tail as high as it will go, which will put the tail ends
around 4 feet apart. Adjust the tail end knots such that the two tail
carabiners reach their nearest tower rungs easily without much slack. Don't
make them too long, or you will have to bend down too far to reach the
lower tail when climbing. You must be able to reach the lower end easily
after setting the upper. After you are satisfied with the lengths, tape the
loose ends from the knots to the main rope for neatness and an extra
measure of security that the knot will not come undone.
POSITIONING LANYARD
This plan will make a lanyard that is just right for Rohn 25 tower. For
Rohn 45, add about 8 inches to the raw length measurements. Obtain a 90"
piece of 7/16" (11mm) diameter static (low-stretch) rope, such as Blue
Water II. Also obtain a 24" piece of 1" diameter tubular webbing, in the
color of your choice (also available where you buy climbing rope). Tie a
figure-eight knot in one end of the rope, leaving a small loop for one
auto-locking carabiner. Slide the webbing over the free end, and tie
another figure-eight knot in the free end, capturing the webbing and making
another small loop for the second auto-locking carabiner. You should have
about 3-4 inches in the loose rope end adjacent to each knot. Try the
lanyard out on your tower, passing it around or through the tower in
various combinations. Once again, after you are satisfied with the length,
tape the loose ends from the knots to the main rope for neatness and an
extra measure of security that the knot will not come undone. Notice that
the webbing acts as a sacrificial abrasion element for the main rope, and
also as a color code. If you climb more than one size of tower and make
more than one lanyard, assign a different webbing color to identify the
lanyard length.
CORROSION PREVENTION
HOW ANTIOXIDANT COMPOUNDS PREVENT CORROSION
Dissimilar metals in electrical contact with each other, such as copper and
tin, or copper and aluminum, can generate a corrosion cell easily,
depending on the combination and the availability of an electrolyte. All
too often moisture from rain or right from the air will play the role of
electrolyte over time to promote such corrosion. Oxygen can also contribute
to the reaction, especially with ferrous materials. These corrosion
problems can be prevented or at least greatly retarded by using an
antioxidant joint compound which can cover and prevent the bridging of
moisture between the metals. The most popular compounds use either zinc
oxide or copper particles embedded in a silicone grease.
In order to have corrosion, you must have oxygen (or dissimilar metals) and
an electrolyte (a liquid with free ions) such as water with minerals. An
effective antioxidant has two components: finely divided metal particles
(like zinc) that will pierce oxide layers when the two parts are clamped;
and a durable grease, silicone or petroleum base, that holds the particles,
sticks to the metal surfaces, and excludes both oxygen and moisture.
Although there are special formulations optimized for specific metal
combinations, you can use the standard, grey, zinc filled pastes sold in
home centers for electrical wiring on any combination of copper, aluminum,
stainless steel, or zinc (galvanized steel). Definitely do not use copper
filled pastes on aluminum to aluminum joints.
Once the two surfaces are brightened, the grease component of the
antioxidant keeps them from oxidizing. Mechanical clamping presses the
surfaces together, providing the electrical contact. The whole joint should
then be weatherproofed to prevent the grease from drying out and or being
washed out of the joint.
For metals that oxidize rapidly (like aluminum - within seconds), you first
deposit a layer of the antioxidant, then 'work' the joint, either by
rubbing the two conductors against each other, or by brushing with a
stainless steel bristle brush to dislodge the tiny layer of oxidation.
Since the surface is sealed with the paste, oxygen cannot get back in after
the abrasion, and you get the cleanest surface possible. As the joint
pressure is increased by mechanical clamping action, the embedded particles
of the antioxidant dig into the metals and form a virgin junction of low
resistivity which is void of air and its moisture.
The following is a list of paste and grease-like products for the
prevention of oxidation of aluminum in electrical connections and antenna
installations:
---------------
Manufacturer:
GB Electrical
6101 N. Baker Road
Milwaukee, WI 53209
Tel: 1-800-558-4311
Product Name: OX-GARD
Source: Available from many electrical supply houses and retail outlets
such as Sears, Home Depot, Ace and True Value Hardware stores. No Factory
direct sales.
GB catalog number OX-100B.
Price: Approximately 3.00/ 1-oz tube
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Manufacturer:
Ideal Industries, Inc.
Becker Place
Sycamore, IL 60178
Tel: 1-800-435-0705
and: 1-815-895-5181
Fax: 1-800-533-4483
Product Name: NOALOX
Source: Distributors (Call 800 number for nearest one)
Price: Ideal list price $2.58/ half oz tube (#30-024) and $8.64/8oz bottle
(#30-030).
NOTES: Also available from many electrical wholesale supply houses.
No factory direct sales. Contains zinc particles suspended in a carrier.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Manufacturer:
KLM Antennas Inc.
PO Box 694
Monroe, WA 98272
Tel: 1-360-794-2923
Fax: 1-360-794-0294
Product Name: Conductive Paste
Source: Factory direct and larger dealers.
Price: $3.50 plus shipping & handling/ 1 ounce containers
NOTES: Anti-seize thread compound Hi-Temperature MIL-A-907E.
Contains copper and graphite flakes suspended in a petroleum base.
Manufactured for Mirage/KLM by Chemical Commodities Agency, Inc.
of Highland, CA per MIL-A-907E.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Manufacturer:
Sanchem, Inc.
1600 S. Canal Street
Chicago, IL 60616
Tel: 1-800-621-1603
Out of State: 1-312-733-6111
Fax: 1-312-733-7432
Product Name: NO-OX-ID
Source: Direct from Manufacturer
Price: $11/16oz can or $8.80/8oz tube (plus shipping) Minimum order - $35
NOTES: NO-OX-ID comes in several consistencies. NO-OX-ID "A" and NO-OX-ID
"A-Special" are suitable for most antenna installations. NO-OX-ID
"A-Special" is similar to NO-OX-ID "A" but has a small amount of solvent
added for ease of application.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Manufacturer:
Thomas & Betts Company
1555 Lynnfield Road
Memphis, TN 38119
Tel: 1-800-888-0211
Fax: 1-800-888-0790
Product Name: Aluma-Shield
Source: No direct factory sales. Available from many electrical supply
distributors.
Price: Approximately $11.44/ 8oz can.
NOTES: Customer may call 800 number for location of nearest distributor.
Contains zinc particles suspended in a petroleum base.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Manufacturer:
Burndy Electrical
101 E. Industrial Park Dr.
Manchester, NH, 03108
Tel: 1-800-346-4175
Fax: 1-800-346-9826
Product Name: Penetrox (PEN-A)
Source: Electrical wholesalers
Price: Approx. $6/ 3oz tube
NOTES: Zinc particles suspended in a natural based compound.
Penetrox A is a natural (petroleum) based compound with evenly suspended
zinc particles. It is recommended for aluminum to aluminum, aluminum to
copper, and aluminum to plated copper connections. It is not recommended
for use with rubber or polyethylene insulated conductors. UL listed to
600V.
Penetrox A-13 is a synthetic base compound with evenly suspended zinc
particles. It is recommended for aluminum to aluminum, aluminum to copper
connections. It is compatible with rubber, polyethylene and other
insulating materials. UL listed for all voltages.
Penetrox E is a synthetic base compound with evenly suspended copper
particles. It is recommended for copper to copper, copper threads, and all
grounding applications. UL listed.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Manufacturer:
Ilsco Corporation
4730 Madison Road
Cincinnati, Ohio 45227
Tel: 1-513-533-6200
Fax: 1-513-533-6274
Product Name: DE-OX
Source: No factory direct sales. Available from electrical supply
wholesalers and distributors. Customer may call for nearest distributor.
Price: Approximately $2.90/ 1oz, $4.90/ 4oz and $7.30/ 8oz squeeze bottle.
NOTES: Used in the electrical trade for Al/Cu and Al/Al connections.
Green colored grease with no noticeable particles in suspension.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Manufacturer:
Antennas West
PO Box 50062
Provo, Utah 84605
Tel: 1-801-373-8425
Fax: 1-801-373-8426
Product Name: Goose Grease
Source: Factory direct sales only.
Price: $1.00/ 1oz + and $1.00 p&h.
NOTES: Transparent silicone grease. Antennas West also recommends this
product for ground rod clamp connections.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Manufacturer:
Mosley Electronics, Inc.
10812 Ambassador Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63132
Tel: 1-800-966-7539
and: 1-800-325-4016
and: 1-314-994-7872
Fax: 1-314-994-7873
Product Name: 1) Mosley Penetrox (Conductive Grease) 2) Weather Guard
(Clear spray coating)
Source: Factory direct sales only.
Price: Mosley Penetrox- $4.45 / packet + postage.
Weather Guard- $12.75/ 8oz spray can + shipping
NOTES: Mosley Penetrox is a grease like product. Weather Guard is a clear
spray especially recommended for marine and coastal environments. Weather
Guard cannot be shipped via the post office; UPS required.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Manufacturer:
Loctite Corporation
1001 Troutbrook Crossing
Rocky Hill, CT 06067-3910
Tel.: 800-842-0041
Product Name: Permatex ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT
Source: Many Automotive Supply Distributors
Price: N/A
NOTES: Comes in 1 oz squeeze tube, 8 fluid oz brush top container, and a 12
oz aerosol can. Can be used on the threads of U-bolts to prevent "seizing,
galling, and corrosion." It aids in the disassembly of the antenna's
hardware. Not for use on electrical connections. The part no. on a 1 oz
tube is 133A.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The connection of a copper wire directly to a galvanized tower leg should
be avoided even if joint compound is used. The primary problem here is that
due to dissimilar metals, the galvanizing will eventually be eaten away. In
addition, there is very low surface-area contact of the round wire with the
(round) tower leg. A copper strap should be used instead. In this case, use
a washer material between the copper grounding strap material and the tower
legs. The most common thing to do is use a thin sheet of stainless steel
(machinist's shim stock). You could also use lead, tin, or silver, or you
can simply tin (soft solder) the end of the copper conductor that will be
clamped to the galvanized steel. Consider using a clamp such as or similar
to the PolyPhaser TK series stainless steel clamp as shown on page 53 of
the '90-'91 Catalog. The TK clamp will help increase the surface area of
the connection as well as provide the necessary isolation between the
dissimilar metals. Be sure to use antioxidant/joint compound on all contact
points. For an even more effective connection, use copper strap in place of
the wire with the TK series. Beyond that, it would be very beneficial to
seal the connection with your favorite "liquid tape" or Scotchkote and
vinyl electrical tape to keep moisture out of the joint. The moisture is
the electrolyte that turns the dissimilar metal joint into a battery.
Silver oxide is the only oxide (that we know of) that is conductive. This
is one reason why PolyPhaser's N-type coax connectors are all silver with
gold center pins. Copper oxide is not conductive and the proper application
of joint compound will prevent oxidation.
Knowledge of corrosion can make the difference between a good site that
stays on the air and one which needs a lot of maintenance after a short
period of time.
Noble Metal Table: Accelerated corrosion can occur between
unprotected joints if the algebraic
difference in atomic potential is greater than +-10.3
volts.
MAG. ALUM. ZINC IRON CAD. NICK. TIN LEAD COPPER
SILVER PALL. GOLD
MAGNESIUM 0.00 -0.71 -1.61 -1.93 -1.97 -2.12 -2.23 -2.24 -2.71
-3.17 -3.36 -3.87
ALUMINUM 0.71 0.00 -0.90 -1.22 -1.26 -1.41 -1.52 -1.53 -2.00
-2.46 -2.65 -3.16
ZINC 1.61 0.90 0.00 -0.32 -0.36 -0.51 -0.63 -0.64 -1.10
-1.56 -1.75 -2.26
IRON 1.93 1.22 0.32 0.00 -0.04 -0.19 -0.30 -0.31 -0.78
-1.24 -1.43 -1.94
CADMIUM 1.97 1.26 0.36 0.04 0.00 -0.15 -0.27 -0.28 -0.74
-1.20 -1.39 -1.90
NICKEL 2.12 1.41 0.51 0.19 0.15 0.00 -0.11 -0.12 -0.59
-1.05 -1.24 -1.75
TIN 2.23 1.52 0.63 0.30 0.27 0.11 0.00 -0.01 -0.47
-0.94 -1.12 -1.64
LEAD 2.24 1.53 0.64 0.31 0.28 0.12 0.01 0.00 -0.46
-0.93 -1.11 -1.63
COPPER 2.71 2.00 1.10 0.78 0.74 0.59 0.40 0.46 0.00
-0.46 -0.65 -1.16
SILVER 3.17 2.46 1.56 1.24 1.20 1.05 0.94 0.93 0.46
0.00 -0.19 -0.70
PALLADIUM 3.36 2.65 1.75 1.43 1.39 1.24 1.12 1.11 0.65
0.19 0.00 -0.51
GOLD 3.87 3.16 2.26 1.94 1.90 1.75 1.64 1.63 1.16
0.70 0.51 0.00
LESS NOBLE
CATHODIC PROTECTION
Cathodic protection is a process of using the known variables of a
corrosion cell to effectively mitigate the detrimental effects of
corrosion. There are two types of cathodic protection
commonly used. The easiest is known as galvanic anode protection. This is
accomplished in tower anchor systems by electrically bonding sacrificial
anodes to the anchor support, making the galvanic corrosion cell current
flow away from the sacrificial anode and toward the anchor shaft and copper
ground rod. Because the anode is higher on the galvanic chart, it will
corrode instead of the anchor or tower components.
Sacrificial anodes vary widely in their sizes, shapes and make-up. Anodes
are typically made of magnesium or zinc. The anode is usually placed in a
cotton bag surrounded by a gypsum, bentonite and sodium sulfate mixture.
This mixture is used for the purpose of assisting in the activation of the
current flow and to ensure that moisture remains around the area of the
anode. A wire is attached to the inner core of the anode and is designed to
be bonded electrically to the member to be protected.
Following installation of the galvanic anode cathodic protection system, it
is essential that it be monitored regularly to ensure its proper operation.
A DC volt meter and copper/copper sulfate reference electrode (half-cell)
is the most common method of checking the system after its installation.
The tip of the half cell is placed in the soil with one lead of the volt
meter connected to it and the other to the structure being tested. The
measurement should show a voltage shift from the same test conducted on the
structure before the system installation.
PROTECTING ANTENNAS FROM CORROSION
One good way of protecting your shiny new aluminum and copper contraptions
from corrosion is to paint them with a protective paint. There are two
types you can use. Clear acrylic lacquer will do a good job for at least a
few years. Another product that has lasted 15 years near a salt water
environment is X-I-M 900, a clear metal primer, which may be harder to
find. You may have to visit a professional paint store to find it. In any
case, clean the metal thoroughly with a scotchbrite pad. DO NOT use steel
wool or sandpaper, both of which will leave behind residues. Then, degrease
it with rubbing alcohol, let it dry, and apply 3 coats of the paint.
If the paint you use is not a spray paint, the best thing to use is a paint
mitt. First, put a plastic baggie over your hand, put the mitt on, dip it
in the bucket and grab the surfaces with up/down or back/forth motions.
The mitts are available from CESCO and other suppliers. Get several pairs
and throw them away when you're done.
DO NOT paint polycarbonate plastic parts (Lexan), such as the element
clamps on KLM beams. The paint WILL react with the plastic and result in
fatal cracking.
You should be VERY careful about approaching polycarbonate plastic with ANY
volatile hydrocarbon solvent in general (paints, adhesives, lubricants,
threadlockers). Until you know for sure that the stuff is compatible with
the plastic, keep it away!
PROTECTING THREADED FASTENERS
ANTI-SEIZE FOR FASTENERS
The Principles, behind seizing prevention are not very different from those
of applying "GOO" to your antenna electrical connections. Both types of
"joint compound" have a liquid vehicle to carry some kind of solid
particles into the connection. Regardless of the application (electrical or
mechanical) the purpose of the liquid vehicle is to readily allow the
application to spread and deposit the suspended solid particles to all
mating surfaces. Once, this has been accomplished, the job is really done
by the solids. The materials were designed this way, and our experience
verifies it! Any of us, who have applied some kind of "Goo" to a connection
have observed that after some amount of time, the compound dries up and all
that is left in the connection is the solid material. This is caused by a
natural leaching process, whereby the repeated depositing and flushing
activity of moisture in the connection washes the liquid vehicle out of the
connection. We also observe that some of the solids are also washed out,
but fortunately, some of them are left in the connection to do their job.
In the anti-seizing application, the solids are almost always softer than
the parent materials (parent materials refers to the material on either
side of the connection, like 300 series stainless in the nut & bolt of a
connection, or forged steel on each side of a good turnbuckle.) They are
also trapped in between the mating thread interfaces mechanically by the
pressure created by tightening the fasteners. When we come along years
later to undo the connections, the trapped soft particles get chewed up and
destroyed, preventing the parent materials from coming into contact with
each other and galling. As stated in the previous post, identical parent
materials will want to gall, or deform equally together to distort each
other, causing a mechanical lock. Sometimes, an effective anti-seizing
solid may be harder than the parent materials. In this case, the joint will
come apart, but damage will be done to the parent materials requiring
replacement. The key for the anti-seize solid to be effective is for it to
have a different hardness than the mating surfaces. The softer solid is
preferred as it allows the mating parts to be reused.
The galvanic corrosion problems with certain solids are addressed above.
The selection of an anti-seizing compound is directly connected to the
environment your hardware will be exposed to. If the connection is going to
be flooded with repeated moisture on a daily basis, you need to use a
compound that will ~ot completely exit the connection. If your environment
is relatively dry (moisture condensing on the hardware 1/3 of the year) you
can use almost anything.
There is a product called "LeadPlate" that can be used in a variety of
applications. Several of the applications have been high temperature
aerospace. The really neat aspect of this type of product is the extremely
soft nature of the lead solids. They seem to very easily deform and stick
to the mating surfaces. When the vehicle goes away, the lead particles are
still stuck to the mating surfaces, by virtue of soft malleable nature of
the lead, so that the connections always came apart.
Permatex (Tm) anti-seize can be used on all threaded connections. This
compound is very clearly silver in color. It can protect fasteners even
after 10 years.
The toughest application is for hardware on sailing yachts. The empirical
history on this experience has proven that all common anti-seize compounds
behave well initially. When they are exposed to daily washings of
condensation, as is experienced by anything on the ocean, All of the good
stuff goes away, and the poor guy trying to take the hardware apart ends up
spending 80% of his time getting it apart, 10% of his time getting the
local machine shop to make new parts, and 10% of his time putting it all
back together. So, what is the good stuff? Its name is Tef-Gel. It is
Teflon based and is not cheap. Both the vehicle and the solid seem to stay
in the connection! This product is still there, to do its job, where all of
the others were washed away. Reminder, this discussion is aimed at
preventing things that must move from getting locked up!
Tef-Gel is sold in the marine distribution chain. I would suggest that you
look for general marine retail outlets. In the U.S. there is a company
called "Port Supply" that has several retail outlets along both the western
and eastern coasts.
THREAD LOCKING
Time to get back to some of the simple stainless connections on amateur
antennas and towers that we don't need to move, but need to stay put.
Simple thread-locking compounds can be used with success. The fascinating
thing about these connections is that, the "thread-locking" Blue Loctite
provides enough lubrication to the connection to prevent galling. The
compound cures properly, when the parts are not contaminated with oils, it
seals the connection off from moisture, and its eventual corrosion, and is
easily disassembled later. When we put a thread-locking compound into a
threaded connection, the outer threads, exposed to the air do not
completely cure. The material inside the outer thread rings completely
cures. The next neat little feature of the thread-locking materials is that
when they cure, they expand. The expansion of the compound applies pressure
to the mating thread faces and locks the fastener. Better antenna building
through modern chemistry! The locking feature of the compound is essential,
as the anti-seizing compounds cannot provide a lock. They are designed to
prevent a lock. Gets confusing, Eh?
Blue compounds are the low strength type. They are usually called
"threadlocker" or some such name. Red compounds are the medium strength
type. They are called "bearing mount" or .... Green compounds are high
strength types and should be associated with terms like "nuclear bomb" or
"cruise missle" when thinking about getting them apart.
If you are putting semi-permanent stainless fasteners together, use the
"Blue" thread-locking Loctite. Critical connections that make masts fall
down and kill people get the "Red" or "Green" Loctite. Things that require
regular service and lubrication get the Tef-Gel (like noisy tubular
towers).
Again, you should be VERY careful about approaching polycarbonate plastic
(such as the Lexan parts on KLM antennas) with ANY volatile hydrocarbon
solvent in general (paints, adhesives, lubricants, threadlockers). Until
you know for sure that the stuff is compatible with the plastic, keep it
away!
WATERPROOFING CONNECTIONS
Having been involved with DB Vapor wrap, Scotch 88 tape and ScotchKote on
hundreds on professional and amateur antennas over the past 20 years, I
would like to make an observation.
#1 Putting a wrap or two of 88 tape on the connector and or feedline and
then putting the Vapor Wrap on top will keep water out in 75% of the
installations. Why only 75%? Well, 25% of the time air is trapped and
leaves a gap. Where there is air, there will be water.
#2 When Vapor Wrap is put right on the connector and then 3 wraps of 88
tape are put on top, followed by ScotchKote (left to dry for a few hours)
and 1 more wrap of 88 tape, our connections have been 100% waterproof.
#3 I have never had trouble taking Vapor Wrap off of a connector. It takes
some practice, but you can use the wrap to stick to itself and it peels
off.
#4 I have HAD trouble taking COAX SEAL off any connector where a ham called
me in to find out why water got in his coax.
#5 If you don't put a wrap of tape over the ScotchKote you will find that
the ScotchKote will be gone in about a year. The sun dries it up and allows
it to flake away. Put a wrap of 88 tape on top and it is there for a long
time.
Black-colored Liquid Electrical Tape (LET), made by Starbrite, can also be
used in place of the ScotchKote. It may even be preferred since ScotchKote
is not rated for UV exposure, and the black LET is. You can restore old
containers of LET that have become thick and gummy by thinning the contents
using small amounts of the solvent MEK (methyl Ethyl Ketone.)
CoaxSeal, or similar products, is used as a vapor barrier to keep moisture
out of a coax connector joint. I'm not a big fan of CoaxSeal because it's
not a quality vapor wrap like what professional communications installers
use. Tower Tech carries a butyl rubber vapor wrap by DB Products,
a supplier of professional communications products and we sell it by the
foot. It runs $3.00 per foot (it's 3 inches wide). The most important thing
to remember when using any material like this is that you need to apply
electrical tape over the connector FIRST, and then apply the vapor wrap.
Pull the tape very firmly over changes in diameter to eliminate as many
wrinkles as possible. Wrinkles in the tape are death to a good seal!
Putting CoaxSeal directly on the connector renders the connector unusable
if you ever try to reuse it -- it just gunks everything up. Put 2 layers of
tape over the vapor wrap and that'll give you a professional, bombproof
joint.
Here's another hint: apply the last layer of electrical tape (you are
using Scotch 33 or 88, aren't you?) so that it runs UP the coax. Then let
the tape relax before you apply the very end; that'll minimize the flagging
that can take place. That way water will run down the layers of tape and
not INTO them. It's like shingles on your roof; if the tape is applied in a
downward direction, the tape laps actually channel running water into the
joint.
BTW, ScotchKote is a liquid that is applied to the electrical tape when
you finished the above steps and it gives additional weather proofing to
the joint. By coincidence, Tower Tech has it for $16.00 per bottle.
An extra measure of oxidation prevention can be achieved by applying a
light coat of silicone grease to the contacts in the RF connector. The best
grease to use is Dow Corning's "silicone high vacuum grease". By preventing
the intrusion of any moisture or other contaminants, (electrolyte is
excluded), corrosion cannot form.
ACCESSORY MATERIALS AND SERVICES
INSULATING MATERIAL
High pressure phenolic laminated sheet makes an excellent insulating
material for antenna systems. In the industrial plastics world this
material is known as "Grade LE Phenolic Laminated Sheet" and any industrial
plastics company should have it. A trade name for this material is
Garolite. McMaster-Carr carries it. The material is extremely strong and
completely impervious to weather (I've had many pieces in use for over 25
years with no significant deterioration!) Standard thicknesses include 250
312 .375 .437 .500" If u can't find a supplier, I purchase mine from Read
Plastics in Rockville MD, (301)881-7900.
ELECTRICAL TAPE
Don't bother using anything other than Scotch Super 33 or 88. Nothing else
stands up to the weather or sunlight.
ACCESSORY STEP
The general consensus is that these slip on shelves for Rohn towers,
although convenient, tend to just get in the way.
ROTOR REPAIR
Norm's Rotor Service
448 Green Glade Rd
Birmingham, AL. 35244
(866)901-5885 (toll free) FAX: (205)982-0550
http://www.NormsRotorService.com
RotorNorm at NormsRotorService dot com
Rotor Doctor (formerly CATS): http://www.rotordoc.com
7368 S.R. 105
Pemberville, OH 43450
(419)353-2287 Fax: (419)354-7746
Craig at rotor-doc dot com
FIBERGLASS SPREADER RODS
Max Gain Systems
221 Greencrest Court
Marietta, Ga. 30068 770-973-6251
http://www.mgs4u.com
Cubex Co.
(561)748-2830
http://www.cubex.com
CubexCo at Cubex dot com
CRIMP-ON PL-259 CONNECTORS
Connectors Unlimited
P.O. Box 5973
Manchester, NH 03108-5973
Phone 603-668-5926 Fax 603-641-1179
Their catalog has a lot of connectors (F, UHF, N, BNC, etc) for dozens of
cable sizes. And the appropriate crimp tools. With prices.
PULLEYS
REI/Recreational Equipment Incorporated
(800)426-4840 and www.rei.com.
Pulley REI# ropes side sheave strength wt price(May 97)
up to plates
REI Blue 471-424 1/2 alum nylon 4500lb 2oz $10.00
CMI RP101 471-211 5/8 alum nylon 3500 5oz $19.25
CMI RP103 471-210 5/8 alum alum 5000 6oz $39.00
CMI RC104 471-073 5/8 steel steel 10000 1lb $48.50
CMI RP108 471-084 5/8 steel alum 16000 2lb $65.00
TOWER BOLTS
Norm's Fabrication
2201 Porter Hwy.
Adrian, Michigan 49221
517-263-7363
Norm at NormsFab dot com
TOOL AND PART POUCHES
There is a guy that makes handy little pouches for tower work. No other
number on his literature. Tower-Mate 25 $15.95, Tower-Mate 45 $19.95
Tower-Mate
PO Box 601616
Sacramento, CA 95860-1616
Fax #916-481-5381
Champion Radio Products
888-833-3104
http://www.championradio.com
COLD GALVANIZING PAINT
KLEIN or LPS make high content, zinc-bearing paint. DAP also makes GALV-A-
GRIP in quart cans.
ROTATORS
SELECTION
Data taken from manufacturer's web pages. Price is lowest price found in
1998
Rotating and Braking torque in ft-lbs.
Model Price Rotating Braking K-factor
Yaesu G450 239 40 217 722
HyGain CD45 320 50 67 1200
Wilson WR-500 ??? 65 108
HyGain HamIV 440 67 416 2800
Yaesu G800 400 79 288 1299
Yaesu G1000 480 79 433 2020
HyGain T2X 530 83 750 3400
Create RC5A2 670 116 1443
Emoto 1200FXX 780 143 1290
Create RC5A3 770 159 1443
Create RC5B3 1300 159 1804
Yaesu G2800 1150 181 1808 6870
M^2OR 2800P 1270 208 1416
Emoto 1300MSAX 1300 215 1792
HyGain HDR300 1100 417 625 5000
Create and Emoto have many more models than listed above. You can find some
of this data and a LOT more at:
http://www.hygain.com/rotors.htm
http://www.yaesu.com/rotors.html
http://www.m2inc.com/cats/prods/or2800p.htm
http://www.elecdist.com/emoto.html
http://www.elecdist.com/create/rotors.html
The following rotors will fit into Rohn 25G tower sections without
modifying the tower:
Yaesu G450, G800, G800SDX, HyGain Ham IV,
The following rotors will NOT fit into a Rohn 25G tower section unless a
brace is bent or removed:
HyGain T2X,
ROTOR WIRING
COLOR CODING TIP. To use, just take the two heavier conductors (if there
are any in your cable) and attach them to pins 1 and 2 (alphabetically),
then take the remaining wires and attach to pins 3 through 8,
alphabetically. Voila!
Most rotators use a similar scheme for motor control and indicator. Their
operation is sensitive to voltage drop so the proper sized cable is real
important. Hy-Gain recommends the following:
Max. length Gauge for Terminals 1 & 2 Term. 3-8
125' #18 #22
200 16 20
300 14 18
500 12 16
800 10 14
If you've got some smaller wire, you can twist multiple conductors
together to give you a 'bigger' wire size. The rule is: two wires of the
same size are equal to one wire which is two sizes larger. The well-known
technique of mounting the Hy-Gain starting capacitor close to the rotator
is a good one. The Japanese rotators use DC motors.
ROTOR WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
The bearing in most rotors are designed to accommodate the vertical weight
load placed on them by a mast and antenna assembly. Relieving this vertical
load completely through the use of thrust bearings may actually shorten the
life of the rotor in a windstorm since the bottom end of the mast may be
more prone to dancing around if all the weight is being supported up higher
by the thrust bearing. The preferred method is to let the entire weight of
the mast and antenna assembly bear on the rotor and to gently snug up the
thrust bearing centering bolts.
However, if the mast and antennas are exceptionally heavy, some load can be
shared by the upper thrust bearing.
Again, the use of two thrust bearings would prevent the mast end from
moving around too much and damaging the rotor. The trick here is not to
tighten both thrust bearing bolts snugly against the mast, but only enough
to keep it from flopping around. This also allows the mast weight to bear
on the rotor, stabilizing its bearings.
PHYSICAL INSTALLATION TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
Here is a neat, simple trick to insure the best alignment. This is a
specific sequence of hardware tightening that helps insure good physical
alignment.
1. Close, but don't tighten, the mast clamp bolts of the thrust bearing.
If you are using a second, lower thrust bearing, leave its clamp bolts
loose. The mast should be gently centered by the uppermost thrust bearing,
but not prevented from moving vertically.
2. Clamp the rotator to the mast.
3. Tighten the rotator mounting bolts to the rotator plate.
4. Tighten the U-bolts of the rotator plate to the tower legs.
5. Tighten the mast clamp bolts on the uppermost thrust bearing.
6. Do not tighten the mast clamps bolts on the lower, intermediate thrust
bearing, to account for any slight bow in the mast or misalignment of the
rotator itself.
TROUBLESHOOTING ROTATION PROBLEMS
If you have a brand new installation, stop and check if you used the proper
gauge rotor wire to account for the length of your installation, and that
you used the two heaviest gauge wires on the appropriate terminal numbers.
This varies with the rotor make and model, so refer to the manufacturer's
literature. Undersized rotor cable causes a voltage drop that will
interfere with proper operation. Also, double-check your terminal and
connector pin wiring and color codes with the literature. Make clear
diagrams of all of your connections to be sure you made them correctly.
When your new rotator still doesn't seem to be working properly, or when
an existing installation stops working, a friend and a tower climb are in
order to perform a series of checks to determine where the real problem is.
Take your HT with you up the tower and ask a friend to stand by in your
shack with his HT so you can coordinate the tests. Check the entire length
of the rotor cable from the shack to the rotator for damage as you go up.
First, loosen the rotator's mast clamps and attempt to turn the mast and
antennas by hand. See if the mast is binding in any particular portion of
its rotation. If so, this could indicate a problem with the thrust bearing
or some other mechanical interference with the antennas, feedlines, or
perhaps nearby obstacles.
If you suspect the thrust bearing, loosen the mast clamp bolts on it and
try turning the mast again. If free, your thrust bearing may be clogged
with debris or corroded. If you cannot clear the problem, leave the clamp
bolts slightly loose and re-clamp the rotator. It should work fine even if
the thrust bearing race is not turning with the mast.
If the mast and antennas turn ok, call your friend and have them run the
rotator back and forth between its limits. Watch and listen for smooth,
continuous motion and sound from the rotator throughout its range of
motion. If there is a problem here, you may see some erratic motion or even
hear sounds from the gearbox that always occur in the same portion of
movement. If you see any of these problems or if your rotator is ten years
old or more, you probably need to service it or replace it.
If the rotator does not start turning readily when it is loosened from
the mast, your motor starting capacitor (usually in the control head) may
possibly need to be replaced.
If both the mast and the rotator turn freely separately, but not together,
you may have an alignment problem. Work back through the tightening
sequence in the previous section. If you still have a problem, look for
physical problems that may prevent the rotor from being level or centered
in the tower, that may not be accounted for in the tightening sequence.
This may become obvious if you encounter binding of a component during the
sequence. You may also have a rotator that does not have self-centering
clamps. These types require a shim for smaller diameter masts to keep the
mast centered when the clamps are tightened.
HYGAIN ROTOR PRIMER
The following was provided by Gary Kunkee, rotator repair man at Telex-
HyGain, an authority on the Ham-M, II, III, IV, V series rotators. The
basic hardware of the rotator hasn't changed much with the notable
exception of a change from a zinc gear to steel and an internal wiring
change (different ordered use of the 8 terminals). Most all parts are
interchangeable to this day.
HYGAIN ROTOR IDENTIFICATION
There were 5 series of Ham M until 1972 whereupon the name changed over
time to Ham II, III, IV and V. Look for a four digit number on the Brake
Casting (one with terminal strip on it). Some units may not have this
number (I think). The first digit may be 1 through 5 indicating Series 1
through 5 of the Ham-M. The Ham II, etc. should be stamped as such (Roman
Numeral number). I think the Ham V is actually a Ham IV with a fancier
control box. The next three digits indicate the week (2 digits) and year of
manufacture.
HYGAIN ROTOR LUBRICATION
Grease is used modestly, not "packed" as may be commonly thought. Currently
they use a product called Nyogel 727F but a low temperature white lithium
grease is usable instead. Nye Lubricants, New Bedford, MA, Ph: (508)996-
6721.
HYGAIN ROTOR INTERNAL WIRING
The main control box transformer is either a 120 or a 240 VAC input
winding. It puts out typically 30VAC under load. But 26 to28VAC is okay
too. He usually measures 1.5A up to 2.0A current draw. If more than 2 amps
is drawn he usually changes the motor. The Series One and Two can be
internally rewired to the later standard and be used with the newer control
boxes. One giveaway (internally) on these two series is a wire between the
pot and to limit switches. Later models do not have this wire. Measurements
made on the various terminal combinations with certain results can
determine which of the two wiring standards you have.
The motor start capacitor, in the control box, is a 130 microfarad, 110-
125VAC, non-polarized electrolytic. A similar replacement is available from
Grainger. Grainger part number "4X059" is a 130-156mfd, 110-125VAC, non-
polarized electrolytic. Physically it fits in the existing mounting clip,
but rather than axial leads, it has two "plug in prongs" at one end, so you
need to save the longer leads from the old unit and solder them to the
prongs. There's also a physically identical part "4X058" which is 108-
130mfd. Since the original is 130mfd, the 4X058 would probably work as
well.
HYGAIN ROTOR TYPICAL ELECTRICAL MEASUREMENTS
Typical Measurements on Rotator Terminal Strips:
Ham-M Series 1 & 2
Between terminals:
1&2 0.75 Ohms Brake Solenoid
1&3 2.5 Ohms Motor Winding
1&4 2.5 Ohms Motor Winding
1&5 2.5 Ohms Motor Winding
1&6 2.5 Ohms Motor Winding
3&4 5.0 Ohms Whole Motor
3&5 Short
4&6 Short
3&7 500 Ohms Position Feedback Pot.- end to end
3&8 0 to 500 Ohms Pot.- One end to wiper arm
8&7 0 to 500 Ohms Pot.- Other end to wiper arm
Wiper is No. 8 on this series
Ham-M Series 3 to 5, Ham II, III, IV, V
Between terminals:
1&2 0.75 Ohms Brake Solenoid
1&8 2.5 Ohms Motor Winding
1&4 2.5 Ohms Motor Winding
1&5 2.5 Ohms Motor Winding
1&6 2.5 Ohms Motor Winding
8&4 5.0 Ohms Whole Motor
8&5 Short
4&6 Short
3&7 500 Ohms Position Feedback Pot.- end to end
3&1 0 to 500 Ohms Pot. One end to wiper arm
1&7 0 to 500 Ohms Pot. Other end to wiper arm
YAESU ROTOR PROBLEMS
There have been several problems reported with the 400, 800, and 1000
series Yaesu rotators, relating to the control box drive motor and
circuitry.
The early ones seemed to have cheap drive motors in the control box. the
motor commutator segments were too soft and after some time the copper
would wipe and fill the commutator gaps. If not caught quickly enough this
can smoke the two small current-limiting resistors in the drive circuit. it
seems like the resistors act as fuses and protect the drive transistors, so
bigger resistors may not be the fix here. The replacement motors seem
better so maybe they found a better one.
Here's a temporary fix for the motor on the G-1000 SDX control unit:
Unplugging the control cable should cause the needle to go to the counter
clockwise stop on the indicator. If not, it probably means the indicator
drive motor is bad. This is a common problem with the Yaesu G series of
rotors.
For a quick check to see if that is the problem do the following:
1. Remove the metal cover (2 screws on sides and 4 feet)
2. Remove front panel (3 screws on bottom, 2 on top)
3. Pull front panel out about 1-2cm and look in to the gear mechanism on
the left side. you should see a small pulley with a rubber belt on it.
4. Plug in the rotor power but remove the control cable. Be careful, there
are exposed connections where line power is available but they are on the
bottom side of the front panels on the other side of the indicator at the
switch.
5. Turn on the rotor. With a small screwdriver, gently try to turn the
small pulley with the rubber belt. If it starts to slowly turn the needle,
it confirms the motor is the problem. If it doesn't start operating, it
could still be the motor, but may also be the control board. If it goes
back at full speed, it might have been a mechanical jam but that is less
common.
What typically happens is that the commutator segments in the motor are
too soft so after a while the metal 'wipes' and powders enough to get in
between the commutator segments and essentially shorts out the motor. If
the controller is left on for long periods in this condition it can also
burn up the 2 current limiting resistors and/or drive transistors on the
little circuit board behind the motor (see below). Giving the motor a push
gets it past the shorted spot and at least shows you that the rest of the
drive and control stuff is working, but it won't last.
A temporary fix goes as follows:
1. Starting from where you left off above, pull the power plug.
2. Remove the small circuit board behind the drive motor (4 screws)
3. With needle nose pliers, uncrimp the 3 crimps that hold the plastic
back onto the metal case of the motor.
4. Very gently pry the plastic back off the motor.
5. Using a needle or other very small type of dental pick tool, carefully
scrape the gunk out from between the segments of the commutator. You can
remove the small nylon washer on top of the shaft for better access.
6. Use a paper clip or small pair of tweezers inserted through the small
slots on the plastic back to hold the commutator brushes out of the way and
carefully replace the plastic back.
7. Re-crimp the metal back and replace the circuit board.
This should restore operation for a while, but eventually the motor will
need to be replaced. This process is much more involved as you have to
disassemble basically the whole front panel to get to it.
R1 and R2, referred to above, are 120 ohm, .5 watt resistors in the control
head. The control head motor draws about 40 ma when working (no binding
etc) so that draws .2 watts of power through either one of the resistors.
If the motor binds/stalls or shorts, the current goes up to 110ma which
means about 1.5 watts in R1 or R2. This is a significant overload. You can
replace them with 5 watt 150 ohm units from the junk box and run the unit
with the motor shorted (clip lead) for several hours. It will get warm but
will survive. Q1/Q2, the motor drive transistors, actually show very little
temperature rise during this, indicating that they are not being worked
very hard. If the tower-mounted pot opens (or the leads are off etc) the
control box will turn the pot motor to one end and then stall, and if left
would burn out the factory resistors. So if you just energize the control
box WITHOUT the pot in the rotor connected, you will cause either one of
R1/R2 to deal with 1.5 watts, a 300% overload. This is not what you'd call
an intelligent design. And you won't see any warnings about this in the
manual......Any shorts external to the rotor would not cause R1/R2 to be
damaged as they are several levels removed from the output. However,
anything that causes the bridge balance to be upset enough that the
motor/pot in the indicator cannot find the null will cause the motor to
stall out at one end or the other.
If you transmit and the indicator moves, you have an RF problem. Higher
wattage resistors prevent damage, but they are not the cause or cure of the
original problem. You can test your unit on the bench using an external 500
ohm pot on terminals 2 and 3 to simulate the pot in the rotor. If the motor
shows no signs of binding, but then only works for a day or so when put
back into service, you have to assume that there is a problem with the pot
or cabling in the actual rotor.
The other common problem is the mast clamp castings, which are brittle and
tend to break on installation.
ATTACHING COAX AND CONTROL WIRES
ROUTING CABLES
Run your coax cable and control wires up inside the framework of the
tower, next to one of the legs. This way, the tower provides two types of
protection. First, the tower will protect the lines mechanically from
falling/flying tree limbs, tools, antenna parts, etc (during tower work or
a storm), haul lines, or anything else that may bang into or snag on the
tower. Second, the tower cage acts like a faraday shield to help protect
the lines electrically from EMP (nearby lightning) and direct tower hits
from lightning.
ATTACHING CABLES TO TOWER
Scotch 33+ or 88 makes an excellent cable clamp that, when applied
correctly, will withstand the rigors of weather, the sun, and time. Do NOT
use cheap vinyl electrical tape unless you like climbing and duplicating
your efforts. Start taping at the top and work your way down, taping every
5 feet - that?s twice per tower section. Lift the lines up slightly before
each taping to take the strain off of the cables. This way, each tape wrap
is only supporting the weight of the 5 feet of cabling below it. Start each
tape point with two turns around the tower leg itself, then 4 turns around
the cables, snugging them gently with moderate tension. Apply each new turn
over the previous one with 100% overlap - do not spread the turns out. Cut
the tape free from the roll, do not pull it off until it breaks. Now wrap 4
turns in the opposite direction with light tension. Cut it free from the
roll and do NOT apply any tension to the tape on the last turn. This way,
residual tension in the tape will not pull the free end loose over time,
avoiding "flagging." Using screw clamps or beefy cable ties pulled tight
may run the risk of squashing coax cables enough over time to disturb their
transmission characteristics.
FORMING ROTATION LOOPS IN THE COAX
You must allow the coax some extra slack to flex as your rotator moves
the antennas back and forth. The first step is to set the rotator to the
middle of its stroke, halfway between stops. If you rig your loop this way,
it will only have to withstand half of the rotor's full stroke each way.
Secure the cables to the mast below the bottom antenna. This can be done
with tape, followed by gently snugged cable ties (for extra strain relief,
since this is a stress point), covered with more tape to protect from UV.
Wrap the coax/cables around the mast 2 times, forming a loose, 8 inch
diameter spiral below the tape point. This can also be performed by
loosening the mast in the rotor, and spinning the mast and antennas around.
Don't pull these turns tight around the mast. They should have a diameter
no smaller than recommended for the size coax you are using. Certainly not
smaller that 8 inches in diameter for the RG-8/RG-213 sizes. The spiral of
extra turns distributes the twisting along a longer section of cable,
resulting in far less fatigue that the usual loop that just comes out
sideways and back to the tower.
If you have a tapered top tower, at this point, you can secure the
coax/cables to the tower as above, starting from the top and going down.
However, if you have a flat top tower, the top plate will have some rough
edges that will tend to chafe the cables' jacketing. Bolt or clamp a short
pipe to one of the tower legs that rises a few inches above the plate's
edges. Begin attaching the cables to this riser and work your way down the
tower. The riser will keep your cable spiral from catching on the top
plate.
MAINTAINING ANTENNA SWITCHBOX RELAYS
The most likely problem here are the relay contacts. These may develop poor
contact over time for a number of reasons. If you experience poor swr
through a switch after testing with a dummy load, inspect and clean the
relay contacts.
CARE AND FEEDING OF RELAY CONTACTS
NEVER ever ever use anything abrasive on a plated relay contact!!! The
contacts are either gold flashed, or silver flashed, with various alloys
added to modify the surface for different current requirements. If you
remove even a few tenths of an inch (meaning ten-thousandths in plating
slang) of surface, you'll absolutely destroy the alloy that keeps contact
resistance low. The MOST you should ever use on a plated relay contact is
something about as abrasive as cardboard. You can use a thin cardboard like
off a matchbook cover soaked in toluene, xylene, or one of the other nasty
solvents that evaporate without any residue to clean crud out of the
contacts. Some have found that the paper in a dollar bill has about the
right consistency for this task.
This gentle cleaning does not apply to starter solenoids, or other hundred-
ampere, non-plated contacts. They can be cleaned with a grinding wheel
since they are not plated, but don't try that on gold or silver alloy
flashed contacts typical in low or medium current relays.
Relays get "dirty" for two main reasons: 1) They are not plated; 2) They
have had the plating ruined by hot switching or "cleaning"; 3) They have
debris trapped on the contacts; 4) They aren't in an application where they
carry a required minimum current that "wipes" the contact. Number four is a
major problem with amplifier relays. The receive contacts technically
require a different alloy than transmitting contacts, because one carries
virtually no current while the other carries several amperes. Since they
are in one relay, you're stuck compromising. An antenna relay is the same.
When they "get dirty", and they usually will because the material is a
compromise, all they need is a VERY light wiping (like with cardboard) to
remove surface contamination. Just be sure to blow any paper fibers out
with air or freon when you are done, and NEVER coat the contacts with any
"stuff".
What type of relay is it that is the problem? Maybe it's the wrong type?
Relays rated for hot switching higher currents, while impressing customers,
make very poor antenna relays. They are great for starting motors, but not
designed to maintain low contact resistance under conditions of low current
flow.
THRUST BEARINGS
ROHN TB3 THRUST BEARING
This bearing is engineered to be dry. Lubricating it will actually cause
premature failure because the grease will hold onto any contaminants that
are blown through in the wind (dust, rain, etc.). The same is true for
crankup cables: do not use grease on them. If the bearing isn't turning
freely, disassemble it and clean it as described below. If in doubt - throw
it away and get a new one, they are relatively inexpensive.
If you take a close look at your TB3, you will see a set screw inside
which, when removed, allows the bearings to come out. There is really
nothing that keeps this set screw in the right place. It could work its way
in too far and cause the bearings to bind as they pass the end of the set
screw. It could also work its way out too far (limited by running into the
mast) such that a ball bearing can drop into the hole that is supposed to
be filled by the set screw. The set screw is free to move within its
threads for a few turns. There is an optimum place for that set screw to be
and that is when it just fills the hole such that the bearings run smoothly
past the end of it and there is no space for a single bearing to drop into.
New TB3's have a punch mark on the threads to keep the set screw from
moving too far. This is an easy way to keep it under control.
Another easy way to keep it in place is to simply use grade blue thread-
locking compound (removable) on it.
Here is a step-by-step method for refurbishing a Rohn TB-3. This
procedure is only intended to help improve the operation of a reasonably
"healthy" unit. If you find serious problems, like cracked castings, broken
or missing ball bearings, extreme wear, or cross-threaded screws - please
do the wise thing and replace it with a brand new thrust bearing.
Here's what you'll need:
1. A clear, well-ventilated, well-lighted workspace
2. A 16" x 24" or larger tin baking sheet with edges [so you don't lose the
ball bearings]
3. A rag for cleaning
4. Mineral spirits for cleaning
5. 3/16" Allen key [preferably with a 6" handle and "rounded" end for
insertion at an angle]
6. Miscellaneous filing tools [i.e. small hand files - round, flat; a
Dremel tool with fine grinding capability]
7. Wrenches
Procedure:
1. Remove all the bolts and nuts that secure the bearing to the tower and
the mast into the bearing.
2. OVER THE BAKING TIN, CAREFULLY remove the Allen set screw located on the
inside wall [where the mast goes through].
3. The ball bearings will begin to fall out of the set screw hole. Rotate
and lightly shake the bearing to coax the ball bearings out of the hole.
4. The unit was built with 32 [THIRTY TWO] ball bearings. Make sure you
have them all! Set them aside.
5. Separate the top and bottom castings of the bearing.
6. Clean both castings and all the ball bearings with the rag and the
mineral spirits or other grease-cutting cleanser.
Note: It is normal for some dirt and metal powder to accumulate. The
bearing should not contain grease. This unit is designed to run dry.
7. Inspect the ball bearing races. Look for unusually worn areas, pitting,
cracks. Try rolling a ball bearing in suspect areas to see if it will get
"hung".
8. Using your filing tools, smooth out any rough areas so the ball bearing
can roll without resistance.
9. Do this for both castings. Note that your mast will be pushing down on
the upper casting. This will cause the bearings to press against the top of
the race in the upper casting, and against the bottom of the race in the
lower casting. Pay close attention to these areas.
10. Make sure you look carefully at the area of the race in the upper
casting near the set screw. Wear in this area will cause the thrust bearing
to stick.
11. Insert the set screw - don't cross-thread it! Adjust it to the point
where a ball bearing can run across it smoothly. Note, from the insertion
side, how far the set screw is screwed in. Remove the screw and set it
aside.
12. Reassemble the thrust bearing by holding the castings together and
inserting the ball bearings back into the set screw hole one at a time.
You'll have to rotate and jiggle the unit to find space for the last 5 or 6
ball bearings. Do this over your baking tin so that WHEN [not IF] you drop
a ball bearing, it falls in the tin, not in the air conditioning vent.
13. Replace the set screw. Apply blue thread-locking compount to it and
insert it until it is at the point you noted in Step 11. It should be
roughly flush with the inside wall of the upper casting. Be careful not to
cross-thread the set screw.
14. Now it's time to give the bearing a spin. It should run much smoother,
and should not "stick" at all.
15. If you think the bearing could operate a little smoother, try
adjusting the set screw in or out a bit. Remember, the ball bearings must
go by the set screw smoothly.
16. If the unit still sticks . . . return to Step 2. If this is your
second time through the process and you're still not satisfied - THROW IT
AWAY and go shopping for a new one.
INSPECTING YOUR TOWER
INSPECTING NEW TOWER SECTIONS
When picking up new tower sections from a dealer, inspect each section for
defects before accepting them. Look for:
1) Bent or twisted sections (sight along their length).
2) Deformed or bent ends (6 places).
3) Mis-aligned joint sleeves on Rohn 45 & up (3 places).
4) Welds with cracks or multiple pinholes.
5) Gaps, flakes or separations in the galvanizing.
6) Missing assembly bolts. There should be a plastic tube containing the
assembly bolts stuffed into the bottom of one leg.
7) For Rohn 25 only, to make sure you are not accidentally getting Rohn 20,
verify the presence of 8 horizontal rungs, not 7.
8) Bent braces
9) Improperly drilled bolt holes. The holes should be oriented such that
the bolt's axis points toward the geometric center of the tower cross-
section.
INSPECTING USED TOWER SECTIONS
Take plenty of time to inspect every inch of used tower sections. Tiny
defects may be hard to spot, but they could still seriously weaken the
tower's structure and ability to carry stresses. Watch out for:
1) Bent or twisted sections (sight along their length).
2) Deformed leg ends that have been flattened out-of-round by over-
tightening the joint bolts. Deformed ends may be accompanied by the
presence of bent horizontal braces adjacent to each end of the section,
where excessive jacking force was required to separate the sections.
3) Elongated or drilled-out bolt holes.
4) Cracks and splits anywhere on the 3 legs of each section. Hairline
cracks caused by trapped, frozen water will be thin and run in the same
direction as the leg.
5) Cracks or multiple pinholes in the welds (inspect every weld). These
should be obvious without magnification.
6) Cut and spliced or bent braces.
7) Legs that you cannot see light through, that are clogged with debris.
8) Rust that is more than light, dusty surface rust. If there are flakes of
rust and a scaly appearance of the metal, it is probably deep enough to
weaken the leg. Use a flashlight to peer inside of each leg for interior
rust.
9) Legs that have been repaired or welded to, other than the original
factory brace and joint-sleeve (on R45 & up) welds. These welds are often
easily identified by surface rust.
ASSESSING BENDS IN TOWER LEGS
If you run across a tower section that is bent, examine the metal closely.
The structural integrity is compromised only if the leg section has become
kinked or distorted out-of-round. The steel in the legs is ductile enough
to let you correct minor bends without damaging the tubular shape. The
biggest problem with a minor bend is that you'll have a heckuva time
assembling sections involving a leg that is bent more than about a half an
inch or so out of alignment.
Champion Radio sells a good gadget for this called a Leg Aligner, which
allows you to hook on to both ends of the mating leg sections and lever
them into alignment.
CORRECTING MINOR BENDS
Here is one way to straighten a bent leg and maintain structural integrity.
Slide a close-fitting pipe over the bent leg end and use the leverage to
gently bend it back into alignment. Align the end of the pipe with the bent
area to apply the corrective bend to the area that needs it. If it returns
to its original shape and alignment with no trace of buckling, kinking, or
other noticeable distortion (usually the case with small bends), you can be
reasonably sure of it's original integrity. However, once a piece of metal
has been bent many times, it can become weakened. If you see a leg that
looks like it has been bent back to shape, but still has some residual
curves (roller coaster shape) or a crack across it, pass it over for
purchase.
The tin is very ductile and should flow with minor bend correction. If a
bend is severe enough to crack or flake the galvanizing, the leg is
probably a goner per above distortion criteria.
<< 5) Cracks or multiple pinholes in the welds (inspect every weld).
INSPECTION CHECKLIST FOR GUYED TOWER INSTALLATIONS
Here are some mixed ideas/stories.
Every Spring and Fall I inspect my towers and antennas thoroughly so that I
can plan needed corrective work during the rest of the year.
With high winds expected tomorrow and a beautiful warm sunny day today, I
decided to begin my ritual inspection of my guy anchors, including guy
wires, guy tension, turnbuckles and fasteners. Imagine my shock when I got
to one of the guy anchors, and the guy wire was not there! This was one of
my very few guy anchors that does not use a turnbuckle, this anchor rod has
a "fist" style termination commonly used by utility companies. The
"missing" guy was hanging down the tower, with the end on the ground near
the tower base. This is a 1/4" EHS guy and all seven strands were
fractured where they had passed thru the guy anchor, the three Crosby clips
were still in place. The guy has now been repaired and re-attached. I have
no idea why the EHS cable snapped where it passed thru the "fist"... This
is the first time I've experienced a failure of a guy
cable.
Additional inspections planned this spring:
Each tower base will be examined for evidence of rust or other
deterioration and all accumulated dirt or other winter debris will be
completely removed. Tower plumb will be checked from top to bottom with a
transit and corrected by re-tensioning the guys if necessary.
All tower ground wires and ground rods will be inspected. All RF and
control cables fastened to sides of the tower will be inspected and
fasteners replaced if there is any evidence of deterioration. Electrical
connections to rotors and antennas will be inspected. All tower bolts and
nuts will be visually inspected for tightness.
This twice a year inspection routine has served me well over many years. I
highly recommend that all tower owners follow a similar policy.
During moderate to high winds, inspect your installation for any unusual
movement, especially large or oscillating motions of a part that might
cause fatigue in a metal part.
Inspect cable clamps for looseness, and deformation or breakage of cable
strands.
Clear concrete bases above grade of any debris such as leaves and pine
needles, that could retain water and hold it against your tower legs and
base hardware.
There is evidence of mechanical wear on the broken guy wire (shiny
galvanize on either side of the break, loss of galvanize, loss of
steel and some rust only on the strands in direct contact with the
anchor). The break occurred on the part of the cable that took the
heaviest load (midway around the "fist," directly opposite the
direction of pull on the guy wire).
Over a ten year period the guy must have gradually worn from moving
in the anchor "fist"! After two or three strands wore partly thru, the
remaining strands simply snapped!
Thanx for encouraging me to look more closely at the damaged guy wire!
Fortunately most of my guy cables are not fastened in this way (most use
preformed grips and heavy duty thimbles). I'll very soon replace all of
my remaining guy wires that have been installed this way for the last ten
years
In hind sight, its apparent that the closest Crosby clip must be close
enough to the anchor to prevent the cable from moving in the anchor
during high winds
According to my 1994 Crosby catalog application information, the clip
(cable clamp) should be installed "as near the loop or thimble as possible".
Your annual tower inspection should include having a wire brush and can
> of cold galv so you can fix any rusty spots as you find them
Anchors
At time of construction
Volume and depth of concrete?
Rebar present?
Maintenance
Deadman:
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Spreader:
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Are nuts and bolts tight?
Turnbuckles:
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Guy wire clamps or Preforms (Big Grips):
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Safety Wire:
Present?
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Ground Rod:
Necessary?
Present?
Bonded to metallic guys?
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Guy Sets from the Ground:
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Is all hardware present and not visibly loose?
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage to guy wires, thimbles, and
clamps (or Preforms/Big Grips)?
Tower Base
At time of construction:
Height and depth?
Rebar present?
At time of each inspection:
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Any sign that water has frozen inside the vertical tubes?
Lightning Protection System and Safety Grounding
Ground Rods:
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Hardware tight?
Meet NEC?
Tower:
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Is tower vertical and straight (i.e., not bowed)?
Have all joints between sections been inspected?
Guy Sets from the Tower:
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Is all hardware present and not visibly loose?
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage to guy wires, thimbles, and
clamps (or Preforms/Big Grips)?
Support Arms:
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Is all hardware present and not visibly loose?
Antennas:
Any visible corrosion, wear or damage?
Is all hardware present and not visibly loose?
Cables and Electronics:
Are cables attached to the tower at least every ten feet of
travel?
Notes on cures to items found:
As with any outdoor building material, it is possible to discover
items requiring maintenance. Where problems exist, cures are often
obvious. For example:
Loose nuts and bolts -- tighten
Rusted nuts, bolts, clamps -- replace
Rust on galvanized steel -- wire brush and cold galvanizing
compound
Frayed guy wires -- splice or replace
Ground wire broken -- reground.
There is virtually nothing that cannot be repaired or replaced on an
amateur radio antenna support structure.
CHAPTER 30 - MAINTENANCE AND ANNUAL INSPECTION
Now that you've spent all that time and money on
installing your dream antenna and tower system, you'll need
to do periodic preventive maintenance (PM) and inspection to
catch anything before it turns into a problem.GENERAL MAINTENANCE
If you've followed the directives and steps outlined in
this book then you've already taken the most important steps
in insuring the safety and reliability of your tower and
antenna system. Following the manufacturer's specifications,
using the right hardware, using anti-oxidants and over-
engineering everything are the keys to success. At that
point, you'll probably not require much in the way of generalmaintenance.
The two most likely things that you'll need for general
maintenance are a wire brush and cold galvanizing spray
paint since rust is probably the only thing about which youhave to worry.
ANNUAL INSPECTION An annual inspection is a critical part of our PM
program. Most commercial companies do it religiously and many
insurance companies require it as a condition of insurance
coverage. What you want to do is to catch small problems
before they turn into big problems. An annual inspection
entails examining everything in the tower and antenna system
including ground system, concrete anchors and footings andtower structure.
In addition to annual inspections, the installation
should be inspected after ice storms or wind storms that
exceed 60 Mph. You should get in the habit of doing a quick
visual check any time that you climb the tower. A log book of
inspections, exceptions and repairs is a handy referenceitem.
The information that follows is based on commercial and
EIA/TIA-222 tower inspections standards.TOWER STRUCTURE
1. Check for damaged or faulty members. These are the
tower legs, girts and braces. With welded towers such as Rohn
25G and 45G, the members cannot be replaced without replacing
the whole section and minor bends or damage that does not
alter the structural integrity can usually be tolerated.
2. Check all welds for integrity.
3. Examine the condition of the finish and any
corrosion. Look for rust patches; use your wire brush and
cold galvanizing paint to repair it.
4. In addition to visually checking any bolted
connections, you should put a wrench to 10% or them to check
for tightness. Any loose nuts or bolts should be retightened.
Also look for missing hardware and replace it immediately.TOWER ALIGNMENT
1. The tower should be checked for plumb. A tower is
allowed a maximum deviation of one part in 400, or 3 inches
per 100 feet. While a transit is the best way to check tower
alignment, an electronic level gives you .1 degree accuracy
or a bubble level will indicate relative plumb.
Another simple way to check tower alignment is by just
using a piece of string with a weight on the end. Hold it out
at arm's length and sight the string along the tower leg;
this will give you a real quick and fairly accurate idea oftower plumb.
2. Check the guy wires and guy insulators using
binoculars for the ones that aren't close to the ground orthe tower.
3. Examine all guy wire and guy wire hardware including
preforms, shackles, turnbuckles, clamps, and clevises for
damage. Make sure that turnbuckle safeties are intact.
4. Check the guy wire tension with an instrument oranother technique.
5. Examine the tower base and guy anchors. Look for any
cracking of the concrete. Also look for evidence of movement
in the soil of the anchor rods or base. Check for rust and/or
corrosion. Excavate a buried anchor rod for 12 inches to
inspect for hidden corrosion.ANTENNAS, CABLES AND APPURTENANCES
1. Inspect each antenna, boom to mast bracket and
boom truss hardware for any loose or missing hardware. Testnuts for
tightness.
2. Look at each feedpoint joint and coax cable joint for
compromised weatherproofing. 3. Check all cables for abrasion, binding
and
attachment. 4. Examine all appurtenances (anything that's attached
to the tower) for missing hardware or corrosion.GROUND SYSTEM
1. Do a visual inspection of the ground system. Re-do
any connections that are corroded.
It goes without saying that you should correct any
problems that you discover in your inspection. If you're not
sure about the seriousness of something you've found, talk to
a knowledgeable buddy or contact the manufacturer for advice.
When you do a tower inspection, you should have enough
supplies to re-do several coax connector joints if necessary
as well as a note pad and pencil to write down any
discrepancies that require further action. Carrying a wire
brush and cold galv paint is also a great idea. You'll be
able to take care of most problems on the spot as well as
know what else you might need to finish the repairs.
I always push and pull on antennas and appurtenances to
see if anything is loose. Something might look okay but
pushing on it might reveal loose hardware or some otherproblem.
ASSEMBLING TOWER SECTIONS
Break your tower installation task into the smallest bits that you can.
When installing a guyed section, pull the guys up separately; not attached
to the section. However, pre-installing guy attachments is a good idea, due
to their complexity. When installing an antenna, do not bring up the coax
attached - use a pigtail jumper from the feedpoint to the feedline. Use an
antioxidant between nesting sections. Install bolts with the nuts on the
inside of the tower to reduce the protrusion on the outside legs, which
will snag your climbing lanyard, clothes, and skin (ouch!).
PRE-ASSEMBLY ON THE GROUND
This is one of the best things you can do to make a tower erection go
smoothly. A little planning goes a long, long way in this department.
Guy attachment points.
Figure out ahead of time which section and rung your guys will attach to
and install the guy bracket assemblies. Go ahead and install the outer
bolts, connection links, and thimbles, too, but don't fully tighten all the
bolts until after installation of the guys. If you are not using guy
bracket assemblies (you should), mark the guy attachment points with tape.
For the top section, it is a good idea, especially if you are raising
lighter 25G, to pre-install your rotor plates and thrust bearings.
Guy cables
Break out your calculator and figure out how long each guy cable will be,
then add 10 feet and pre-cut all the guys. Mark each guy with a tag
identifying which guy it is for (top, mid, bottom, etc.) Pre-install the
guy grips on one end of each cable, but only halfway. Wrap one side of the
grip only, so that when you raise it up to the guy bracket, you can slip
the free end of the grip through the thimble and link and finish the wrap
in a flash while you're up on the tower.
Top Section
Pre-install your top-plate adaptor, rotor shelf, and secondary thrust
bearing, if used. If possible, go ahead and install your rotor, assuming
that your gin pole and haul line can take the weight. Check the balance
point of the section and mark the appropriate rung with tape so that the
ground crew will know where to connect.
GIN POLES
GIN POLE TYPES
1) Construction Plans: I built a gin pole which I have been using for a
number of years. It is made from a 14.5 foot piece of 2" aluminum pipe (2"
ID, 6063 alloy) and a rectangular aluminum plate, approximately 18" x 8" x
3/8". The pipe is held to the plate by two U-bolts, and the plate is
mounted to
a tower leg using two more U-bolts. A hole is drilled through the top of
the pipe for an eye bolt which holds the pulley. It's simple to use,
although not quite as convenient as the Rohn ginpole. I've used
it on Rohn 25 and several crankup towers. To be useful on a crankup tower,
you need to have several inches of offset between the pipe and the tower
legs so the pipe clears the bottom tower sections when the tower is nested.
Total cost of the plate and pipe from an aluminum supply shop was about
$75.
Now some info on addresses, pricing, and the like:
1. IIX Equipment Ltd.
4421 W. 87th St
Hometown, IL 60456
(708)423-0605
e-mail iix@interaccess.com
Fax (708)423-1691
$189.95 for a kit that includes gin pole head and mounting bracket only.
(pole itself is not supplied). Unfortunately, this kit uses a flat pulley
sheave, and should be upgraded to a grooved/cupped sheave for reduced
friction.
2. WB0W, Inc.
1210 Midyett Road
Saint Joseph, MO 64506-2407
(800)626-0834
Fax (816)364-2619
e-mail wb0w@ibm.net
The WB0W GIN POLE can now be ordered with a V pulley for cable, or cupped
pulley, or the standard flat pulley for rope. Unfortunately, the flat
pulley allows the rope to rub on the side of the pulley body. Using maybe
3/4" hemp line would probably be OK, but it may not work well with small
synthetic line. You should definitely order the cupped pulley for ropes.
3. Antenna Mart/Max Gain Systems
221 greencrest Ct, Marietta, GA, 30068
770-973-6251
Part # AMQ-SGP-2
Price: $347.50 + S&H
email: mgs@avana.net
web: http://www.mgs4u.com
Two piece design, will ship via UPS.
Easy to transport
Length approximately 12 ft. 6 in.
Weight 36 lbs.
Shipping weight 40 lbs.
Special, large lathe turned rope pully.
Heavy duty design.
Mounts and unmounts in seconds.
Uses up to 7/8" rope or 3/4" aircraft cable.
Machined pully is high impact plastic. Aluminum pully is $10.00 extra
cost option.
HOMEBREW GIN POLE MAST
Here's how I made my own gin pole mast with just a little machine work with
hand tools at home. I wanted a 12-foot long, two-piece unit so I could pack
it inside my car or van. I bought five, 6-foot long sections of aluminum
pipe from Texas Towers in the following sizes:
6061-T6 EXTRUDED TUBING:
2.0" OD, 1.760" ID, 0.120 wall, 6' long, qty 2
6061-T6 DRAWN TUBING:
1.750" OD, 1.634" ID, 0.058 wall, 6' long, qty 1
1.625" OD, 1.509" ID, 0.058 wall, 6' long, qty 1
1.500" OD, 1.384" ID, 0.058 wall, 6' long, qty 1
These are all conveniently UPS shippable and inexpensive!
Notice that these sizes all telescope closely, one inside the other. I
nested the three drawn sizes together and carefully aligned one end. Then,
with one saw cut, I cut a 16" long section from the group, and carefully
filed the ends square and flush with each other, effectively creating a 16"
long coupling that is 1.750" OD and 1.384" ID.
Using a handheld de-burring tool (see Home Depot), I very thoroughly
radiused the inside edges of each end of the coupling, so that the haul
rope would pass through it very easily without snagging. The sections fit
so closely together that they appear to be one piece.
I placed the coupling 1/2 way (8") into one of the 2" OD extruded pieces
and clamped the works in a vise. Next, I drilled, tapped and countersunk
four holes to accept #10, flat head countersunk machine screws. I placed 2
of the screws approximately 3 and 6 inches away from the end of the mast
half (where the joint will be), and the other two in the same spacing but
180 degrees from the first two. I trimmed the screws for length such that
when they were fully seated, flush with the outside, the ends are just
flush with the inside of the coupling and do not extend into the rope path.
I applied a thread sealant (Loctite blue) to these four screws before final
installation so that the coupling will stay permanently attached to one
side of the two-piece mast.
Next, I slipped the remaining mast half over the coupling and prepared four
more screws and holes. I did not seal this second set, since this will be
the side of the joint that comes apart.
Since I drilled all the holes by hand and eye, I punched index marks where
the two mast halves meet at the joint so that I could always mate the screw
holes.
The joint is surprisingly tight and there is no noticeable play on the
resulting, 12' mast. It's real handy to be able to break it down into 6'
sections for storage. The screws fit flush on the OD of the mast, allowing
it to slide through the gin pole's clamp assembly nicely.
GIN POLE ROPE
The general consensus is to use a braided, 3/4" Dacron rope, if you can
afford it. A braided rope, rather than a twisted type, avoids the
unwind/wind cycles that occur under load. Braided rope is also far easier
to coil. Dacron rope is generally considered the best, but it is the most
expensive. Nylon is more readily available in the home stores, but it
stretches quite a bit, reducing your control of lifted objects. However,
this stretching helps reduce shock loading if items are dropped.
Larger sizes, such as 5/8 and 3/4, although far stronger than necessary
to do most jobs, are much easier to grip. 5/16" is the smallest size you
would want to use, and has plenty of strength (around 1200 lb for braided
Dacron). The length you need will be approximately twice your tower height
plus an appropriate length (at least 50 feet) for the ground crew to use
while maintaining a safe distance away from the bottom of the tower. For a
100 foot tower, then, your rope should be at least 250 feet long.
The easiest way to store this rope is inside a tall, round trash can. The
rope can simply be fed into the can without coiling and will come out
readily without tangling. Smaller ropes may also fit very nicely into a
plastic 5-gallon bucket. Pick up one of those plastic seat lids that fits
on the bucket and you have a nice carrying case for your rope.
RIGGING THE GIN POLE AND TURNING BLOCK
Be sure to use a turning block at the base of the tower to keep the haul
line lined up with the axis of your gin pole and to prevent side loads.
Your turning block *must* lock onto the tower with a safety hook and catch,
a locking carabiner, or a screw link. DO NOT CUT CORNERS HERE! Don't play
around with hooks that don't have safety latches. Nothing will cause a
disaster faster than having your turning block break loose in the middle of
a lift!
The turning block should have a pulley sheave diameter of at least 2" for
best operation, and a safe working load (SWL) at least equal to the
heaviest load you want to lift. Again, keep in mind that the safe working
load of an item is usually only 20% of its breaking strength or less.
The position you select for the turning block will determine which leg the
gin pole will have to be mounted to keep the rope lined up. If there is a
particular side of the tower you want to lift items on, place the turning
block closest to the desired leg in that direction.
When you mount the gin pole, mount it on the leg that places it as close as
possible to directly above the turning block to reduce rope friction. It is
imperative that the haul line remain free when manipulating items up and
down during placement.
Keep the mast of the gin pole retracted, if possible, while repositioning
it for best control. Mount it as high as possible on the tower leg such
that it is directly above the turning block at the base of the tower. When
extending the gin pole, turn the pulley out so that it faces away from the
tower to reduce the friction during the long hauling stage of each lift.
Only at the end of the lift do you swing the item over the tower, causing
the rope to wrap somewhat around the gin pole.
GIN POLE KEEPER LOOP
A `keeper loop' is a handy way to speed up rigging and de-rigging the haul
rope in your gin pole. The `keeper loop' is simply a length of small rope
that is long enough to go through the gin pole and back around to itself.
Tie the ends together to form a loop. When you need to thread the gin pole
with your haul line, untie the keeper loop, and tie one end to the free end
of your haul line. Use the keeper loop line to pull your haul line through
the gin pole. Stow the keeper line during gin pole use. When you are ready
to de-rig the pole, reverse the process, pulling the keeper line back into
the pole for storage.
RAISING MASTS
When raising very long masts, you can tape the top of the mast to the haul
rope to stabilize it and keep it vertical while you are raising it. When
the mast reaches the top, you cut the tape as it passes by you. Another
technique is to have the pick point on the mast above the midpoint; then it
goes up vertically (up-side down) with no problem. What you do at the top
of the tower when the haul line knot hits the top of the gin pole is to
flip the mast 180 degrees. Since you've got it captured at the gin pole, it
will just rotate until you have the short end in your hand (a short rope
attached to the 'top' will allow you to pull it down to you). Then you just
lower it through the thrust bearing/tower top. This produces the maximum
'pucker factor' when dealing with masts but it does work well. It actually
is easier than it sounds.
CLIMBING MASTS
Of course you want to make sure that the mast is safe to support a person
on it, such as a chromoly mast, secured at the bottom with dual thrust
bearings, or one thrust bearing at the top of the tower and the rotor at
the bottom of the mast. MAKE SURE that the mast is not just a piece of
thin wall something or other. It's a pretty good-sized mental adjustment
to be able to climb a mast but remember the load is all vertical and the
tower is capable of handling big loads. Compared to big wind stresses, one
200 pound climber isn't going to make much of an impact on the
installation.
You can make temporary steps to use with your tower working tools and
equipment. Use 2" channel iron 15" or 16" long. (Channel is more secure
than angle.) Cut "V" notches in both flanges to match your mast diameter
but don't cut all of the way to the flat part. Drill holes for two
U-bolts (second one is for safety). Cut along the flange bend about 3/4"
from each end on the top flange only and bend the ends of the flange
(about a half inch) up 90 degrees (keeps your foot from sliding off of the
end of the step). Take a cold chisel and using the corner, beat a huge
number of indentations into the top surface of the step to make it less
slippery. Try raising ridges of steel by increasing the angle of the
chisel. Buy the U-bolts just long enough to pass through the step or cut
off the excess so your cloths don't catch on the ends of the bolts. You're
all set, except for the courage. Mount the first one a foot or so above
the last spot that you can stand on. Put another one (if required) a foot
or so above that. Now you've got a temporary ladder to get you up the
mast. While most people wrap their belt around the mast a couple of times
to secure themselves, a good tip is to have a separate short lanyard (about
2 feet long) that is just used for mast work (tnx to K6NA for this tip).
USING A CRANE OR BUCKET TRUCK FOR ACCESS
I'm beginning to shop for a crane to assist in the refit of my70' tower. I
was looking at hourly rental of a crane with a80-foot working height with
operator included.A neighbor suggested that he could get me a weekend
rentalof a "bucket truck", where the operator rides in the bucketwhile
controlling the extension of the boom. This wouldseem to be ideal should
any on-tower tuning be needed, aswell as significantly cheaper than a
crane/operator.Does anyone have experience with using one of thesedevices
for tower work? Problems (other than my hesitationto operate it without
adequate training)? Caveats?I'll be removing a small tribander and Hay-Gain
2-element40 and installing a KT34XA and Cushcraft 2-element
40.*************************** ****** The Responses ******* *Bucket trucks
are great. You just balance the boom acrossthe bucket and take it up. The
only problem you may haveis that most of them will only allow the operator
to work at60'. Check on the height limitations of the truck before
anyoutlay of expenses.In retrospect (re my last msg), don't try to operate
the truckyourself if you have never done so before. The tricky part isthe
balance. Get a truck with an experienced operator.He can control it from
down below if necessary. In some case, you may get an operator who is
willing to affix theantenna for you. You can go up and do a final eyeball
whenhe finishes.***Some eqpt rental places have these bucket lifts. There
areliquid fuel powered and electric models that look about thesame. I would
opt for the electric one if you're in a residential neighborhood---they're
almost silent. What the rental co doesis bring the unit out in the am, and
pick it up in the pm. Usuallythey're around $250 or so/day. Only thing to
watch is theheight limitation. Also, they have dual controls (one set in
thebucket, one set at the unit base.***Here in MD, I could not find a firm
that would rent me one becauseof the liability issues. I had to rent one
with an operator. Helet me on the bucket but not "officially".***I've used
one of these a number of times. I operated the 60footer.Operator controls
the whole thing from up in the air, including:boom extension, boom
elevation, boom rotation, up-and-down ofsmall bucket arm, side-to-side of
bucket, and wheels. Don't movethe wheels while the gizmo is extended,
however, as the instructions state.I have used it to put antennas up, take
them down, add tower sections (rohn BX), etc. DEFINITELY the way to go.
Operationlearning curve is easy. Everything is marked on the panel. Ifyou
have ever played a video game you won't have anyproblem.***Around here, the
REA only charges $45/hour for their bucket truckwith operator. The cranes
here go for about twice that. Theirnewest truck is great, has a one handle
"joystick" control that iseasy to use, and the REA operator can take over
from theground if you need help. Max reach is about 80 feet for thisone.
I've had them help with tower work, large satellite dishwork (broadcast
industry), and setting 65' poles for my wireantennas. Some of the trucks
are dual bucket, so the operatorcan go up and be right beside you.***Jeff
... I have never used a bucket truck, but have used a craneholding me up
there in a basket. It is OK for certain kinds ofwork, but not real
efficient timewise if you are going to beremoving and reinstalling beams.
Also, trying to control thebucket and also hold an antenna would be pretty
difficult.The best thing by far, for me, has been to rent ($50/hr or so)a
100' boom truck and operator from one of the local neonsign companies. With
the crane, and one or two good climberson the tower you can move and
replace several antennas injust an hour or two. For my money, and safety,
the signcompany crane is much better than buckets, tram wires, or
thelike.***I couldn't find one to use myself, but did find a local large
signcompany willing to do it at a good price of $65 per hour.***A bucket
truck is a great tool for tower work, providing thata) you can use it
safely, or have a trained operator, andb) that it is of adequate height.
Most of the ones I've seendon't get near 80 feet, although I'm sure they
exist. The lasttime I rented one, it was about $50/hr with the operator
(atNY prices).***I rented one and used it to replace an element on an
antenna at40 ft. I did the work myself. My only complaint was that I
don'tlike heights and being in the bucket (which wobbles around a lot)
bothered me a lot. I would not do it again. I kept visualizingthat thing
going over sideways. I would have felt better ifsomeone who uses them all
the time had been there andtold me that the way we had the stabilizing
"feet" set upwas proper.***Some folks came with a 60' truck to take down my
tower and beams. Works fine but the weight of the truck tore up my lawn.Be
sure you have them come on a day when the earth is notrain-softened and
keep them away from the septic system.Some times you can "work a deal" for
weekend service. Trytree services.Be sure to get all involved to sign a
release of liability...thecheapest insurance you will ever buy. Get a
lawyer to draft it. ***first off, a bucket that will reach to that height
will bob like asailboat. if you are not used to working at that height in
abouncy situation I would NOT try it!as for lack of training... you might
be a lot better off (and thexyl will be happier) if you find a local
friendly utility guy whowill spend a couple of hours with you... for a few
bucks... nowyou have a person who knows what to do, and knows how todo it
from a bucket!!Also remember, the book and bucket get in the way
ofelements...***I don't recall seeing a bucket truck that would go that
high, butsurely they exist. However, I think the best, and safest, wayto do
what you described is to use a crane with anexperienced operator. The tower
worker needs to be on thetower with the crane doing the lifting, etc.
Bucket trucks justaren't really intended for hauling beams up and down and
would probably give you lots of grief. What you want to do should beeasily
done in a half day rental period using a crane. Buckettrucks are great for
fixing elements and getting to impossibleplaces on your antenna or
mast.***I used one (125' manlift) to work on my 110' tower. Had torepair
the 40M beam....worked great!Recommendations:Use a qualified operator from
a bonded, insured and REPUTABLEcompany. Determine if they provide the body
harness or if you'llneed to go get one. Your climbing belt is not adequate
to complywith OSHA rules regarding fall restraint. If the company saysyou
won't need one then go find another company...it's a goodindicator of bad
things to come.Be 110% sure that heights don't bother you. These things
movearound (bounce, jiggle, sway) and the higher you get the worseit is. If
you're not comfortable on your tower then you'll be evenless comfortable in
a bucket.Be aware that the truck will leave some sizable dents in
youryard.....the bigger the truck the bigger the dents! You'll need to get
the truck up close to your tower. An 80'manlift will need to be right next
to the tower in order to provideadequate reach on a 70' tower. You'll also
need to make sure that there is adequate room forthe lift arms to unfold.
Trees and buildings are the biggestnuisance. The chosen company should come
out and surveythe sight beforehand.Have a big check book......most
companies want a 4 hourminimum.....including drive time.***I have never
operated a bucket truck but I have had a similarexperience with a backhoe.
I needed to get a backhoeto dig my tower base and cringed at the cost of
hiring abackhoe with an operator so I decided to rent a backhoeand do it my
self. I too was leery of operating that thingsince I had no experience so I
took a few hours and practicedwith it in the pasture after I got use to how
the controlsworked and how touchy they were I dug my tower base andbases
for 3 elevated guys points until I hit rock and had tohire a pro to finish
HIHI. But the point of this is take thebucket truck to a safe area ie no
trees, power lines orbuildings and play with it get use to the controls and
feelof the thing and I'm sure you will be more confident whenyou get to
working around the tower.***Me too, the truck I used was 135' and looked
like an antique.Bald tires, rust, and all. Boy, was I worried!They did make
me wear a harness that they supplied. I hidin the bottom of the bucket
until it was at the top!The truck I used had a telescoping mast. Whatever
you do,don't look at the mast when it is all the way out!It was $300
minimum here for a 135 ft boom.***Bucket truck work is really great. I did
a coax changeout of atriband beam feedline that was too high up the mast to
reach standing on the lower beam beam-to-mast plate. An operatorcame with
the bucket and we rode up together. That isdefinitely the safe and sane way
to do it.At 70', I recommend you get a two-man bucket; one place foryou and
one for the operator. It's not where you want to be "withoutadequate
training." ***If you check out my QRP page (just follow the link at the
bottomof this note) you will see a 72 foot tower being installed with
abucket truck. I am/was trained on this piece of equipment soI find it very
useful.http://members.home.net/ve6yc***When I asked a local bucket truck
rental company about usingone of their trucks to dismantle an 80 ft tower
and 3 attachedtribanders, they asked if I had a driveway or otherwise
reinforcedground beneath the tower. They were VERY reluctant to
considerusing an 80 ft boom truck on undisturbed earth.Are you familiar
with the TROLLEY method of antenna installation/ removal? Takes about an
hour to do the rigging but then only afew minutes to raise or lower
antennas. That's how I have put up all my antennas.Of course, if you don't
like climbing masts, then it is tedious toremove the rotor and lower the
mast, assuming your tribanderand 2L40 are on a rotating mast.***Drive over
to your local beverage store on Friday afternoon and wait until a large
bucket truck pulls in. When the driver of thetruck comes out of the store
see what he purchased. I havesecured the services of truck and driver all
day Sat. for a caseof Bud (24 cans). Who says I am not cheep.* ******* End
of Responses **********
RAISING ANTENNAS
CHECKING ANTENNA TUNING BEFORE RAISING
Don't fall into the trap of assuming that a brand new antenna that you have
just assembled, even though the manufacturer's literature may say that no
tuning is required, will have a satisfactory SWR curve.
Consider checking side-mounted antennas on their mounts at a temporary
location near the bottom of the tower, so you can easily tweak them when
they are interacting with the nearby tower.
Here is another point to consider. There is a tendency of HF beam elements
(especially the longer ones) to couple with the earth when they are close
to ground, making their frequencies of best resonance lower that when it is
raised in the air. If possible raise the antenna 20-40' in the air using a
non-conductive tram line or other overhead line that you can rig. Try
lashing the antenna to a 20 foot extension ladder with a temporary mast and
stand the assembly up with some friends while checking the SWR using a
temporary pigtail extension for the feedline.
If you perform your tuning close to the ground, the best resonance
frequency may rise higher than you wanted once the antenna is installed on
the tower. Plan ahead to check this before or during the installation
process before all your ham friends call it a day and start digging into
your beer, barbeque, and doughnuts!
TRAMMING
Tramming is the best way to raise a large or bulky beam assembly to the top
of the tower. A 1/8" steel cable is installed from the ground, up to a
point on the mast above the attachment point, usually through a temporary
pulley, and then back down to ground directly opposite of the originating
point to provide a balanced stay. A traveling pulley attached to one side
of this tram wire carries the antenna suspended below it up the wire
directly to the mast. Attach the pulling line to a short piece of pipe
attached to the antenna boom. This pipe will stay pointed at the mast,
parallel with the tram line, as the antenna rises, keeping it properly
oriented with the boom perpendicular to the tram line. A second pulley can
be added at the end of the pull pipe for even more stability.
If a rope is used for the tram line instead of a cable, the antenna can be
tested before permanent mounting by pulling it only part way up in the air
with a temporary feedline. It can be quickly lowered again to fix any swr
problems before permanent mounting.
Using powered machinery to raise antennas should be avoided unless the
operator has absolute control over the hoisting device and has direct
communication with someone on the tower who is watching the assembly raise
up.
REMOVABLE TAG LINES
The antenna tag line ends have to be reachable from the tower. Use a clove
hitch to secure them to the boom. Then take them out to a convenient
element and then wrap them around the element 2 or 3 times to provide a
little friction for the rope. (BTW, two tag lines, one on each side of the
boom, is handy.) Finally, tape the tag line to the element out far enough
so that you won't bend the element by pulling on the tag line but enough
that you can get some leverage while pulling on the rope. After applying
the tape (2 or 3 wraps of electrical tape is usually fine), work the tag
line back and forth a couple of times pulling it through the tape to loosen
up the grip a little. After the antenna is up at the top of the tower but
before it's clamped to the mast, you untie the clove hitch on the boom,
making sure that there are no knots in the line. Next you have your ground
guy start pulling the tag line. He'll be pulling it through the tape and
when you get to the end, have the ground guy give a little extra pull as
you launch the end of the rope in the direction of the tape. As he pulls,
it'll slide through the tape and fall to the ground. All that's left is a
piece of tape that'll probably fall off in a couple of years and a
successful antenna installation.
ALIGNING BEAMS
Finding true north
In principle, north can be located by using a magnetic compass and making
an appropriate correction. Magnetic north is substantially off from true
north -- the exact amount varies by location. But there are better ways.
Polaris, the north star, can be used, but this is inconvenient -- you have
to wait for a clear night -- and not entirely accurate either. The most
accurate way to find a true north south orientation is by using the sun
itself to find the direction of a shadow cast by a vertical object when the
sun is at its zenith. This is easier than it sounds, and can be done by
measuring the length of the shadow cast by the upright before and after
noon.
Set up a vertical pole (or use a rope with a weight) to cast a shadow
on the ground. If you use a rope you will need to make the reference point
somewhere near the top to cast a visible shadow -- like a stick knotted
into the rope. The base of the shadow will be the first point for your
south-north axis and the reference point or top of the pole will trace the
second point. At some time in the morning, mark the spot on the ground
where the reference point casts its shadow. Measure the length from the
base to the end of the shadow, and using a string of that length, trace out
a semi-circle on the ground with the base of the shadow as its center
point.
As the sun rises higher in the sky, the shadow will first shorten as noon
approaches, and then will lengthen. At some point in the afternoon it will
reach the semi-circle you traced in the morning. Note the spot when it
crosses the arc the second time. The midway point between the morning and
afternoon points, will be directly north of the base point of vertical
object."
Here's a simplified version of this scheme. Look up the sunrise and
sunset times in the newspaper for the day. Calculate the time that is
exactly halfway (the "transit time") between them. All shadows will point
true north at this time.
There is a website you can visit that will calculate the transit time for
you for any date and location. You will need to know your local longitude
and latitude. Visit http://aa.usno.navy.mil/AA/data/docs/RS_OneDay.html to
obtain the transit time.
MINIMIZING ANTENNA INTERACTION
Turning 2 beams that are stacked vertically such that one beam is pointed
90 degrees from the other minimizes interaction. This 90 degree
misalignment is compensated for when aiming that particular beam.
CHILD PROOFING A TOWER/ANTI-CLIMB GUARDS
ANTI CLIMB DOCUMENTATION
If you live in a neighborhood where there may be a likelihood of kids
playing on or around your tower, you may want to consider some anti climb
panels on the bottom section to block access to the tower rungs. A warning
placard would also be appropriate. Photograph the installation to document
it for future legal concerns.
METHODS
One way to keep people from climbing your tower (especially kids) is to
build a cover for the base. Just take a sheet of marine grade plywood. Cut
to fit on 2 sides. Notch a 2 x 4 for backing and drill, install carriage
bolts and washers. The 3rd side cut to fit and hinge it to one of the other
sides, At least 3 hinges, drill and use carriage bolts and washer. washers
and nuts on inside all three sheets, Take a hasp and install on the other
side and padlock it. Paint it and will last for 20 years. When you climb,
unlock, swing open, and climb. Then when you come down, swing back and
padlock.
Another way is to use standard galvanized hardware mesh. It wraps around
Rohn 25 nicely, and you can lace it with some galvanized wire. To climb the
tower, put a 6 foot step ladder up against the side to get above the mesh.
This method is much cheaper than the Rohn flat metal guards, and it is
probably as effective.
Anti-climb methods will prevent kids and pranksters from climbing, but
someone who is dead set on climbing is going to find a way around your
efforts. After you make your anti-climb sections, take a few photos of them
as installed and file them away so you'll have them if anything ever
happens, and you need to show the court how you made a reasonable attempt
to prevent unauthorized climbing.
TOWER STRENGTH INFORMATION
>Does anyone know what safety factor Rohn uses for 25G, 45G and 55G? Can
>you refer me to the drawing or page that says it?
First a word about the weight of each type. For each 10-ft section, the
weights are: 25G-40 lb, 45G-70 lb, 55G-90 lb. Sorry, but the safety factor
is not 3:1. I wish it was. The EIA-222 standard requires a 2:1 safety
factor on the guy wires. I have done comparison calculations and I come up
with about the same thing they have in their literature. Everyone should do
a sanity check calculation like this to make sure they are doing it right.
The tower buckling load has a safety factor on it that varies with height.
As an example, drawing CB70488 R1 shows a 190' tower in a 90 mph wind zone.
The base load for this tower is 9,870 lbs. The same drawing shows the base
load for the 70' tower at 3,010 lbs. Now this is the same section of tower
but the applied load is different while the guy spacing is almost the same
(31' vs. 32'). So I guess you could say that it has a 3:1 or better in this
particular case.
In both cases the limiting factor is the guy strength available in the top
3/16" guy wire. Now if you would use 1/4" guy wire (6700#) versus 3/16" guy
wire (4000#) on a 70' tower, you won't get anywhere near the 9,870 lbs of
base load so you won't over load the tower section, but you should be able
to get about 60% increase in antenna wind load available. This is provided
the guy anchors don't pull out of the ground and you use the GA25GD guy
bracket to get the load properly distributed into the tower - especially
for the top guy. The second set can still be 3/16" and looped around a
tower leg.
The Rohn catalog contains drawings for each type of tower section that list
engineering properties. For quick reference here are some facts for Rohn
25:
The maximum allowable bending moment on a section of Rohn 25 is 7,000 foot-
pounds. The compression strength of Rohn 25 is 8430 lb. per leg, or 25,290
lb. total compression at the bottom of the tower.
CALCULATING WIND LOAD AREA and WIND LOAD
WIND SPEED ZONE
First, determine the maximum design wind speed for your tower. The industry
standard is contained in the TIA-222-e specification. The EIA/TIA-222E wind
Map is available at: http://www.skyenet.net/pirod/wszmap.htm.
CALCULATION METHOD
I want to calculate the effective wind area of a 2" diameter mast that is
72" long.
Therefore 72" X 2" = 144 sq.in = 1 sq.ft.
The calculation above would be accurate if the mast were square. But
because it's round isn't there a constant I need to multiply the result by.
You're just about there. The round-member multiplier, or drag coefficient,
is 0.67. It is used by Dave Leeson, W6QHS, in his book "Physical Design of
Yagi Antennas", page 7-6.
One caution when using this factor to reduce the area of round members. I
noticed that there are TWO figures for wind loading capability in the
current Rohn Catalog shown on the guying charts. One figure is for flat
members and the other figure, a larger one, is shown for round members. So
I think Rohn is already taking the shape of the antenna load into
consideration in publishing two numbers for wind loading. I think it would
be incorrect for you to use Rohn's wind loading number for round members
and then also reduce the area of your antenna and mast by 2/3. I believe
this amounts to using the same factor twice when it should only be used
once.
Years ago the "conventional wisdom" said that one should combine element
and boom areas according to the Pythagoreum theory to obtain a net
effective area (if you payed attention in Trig class it uses the A^2 = B^2
+ C^2 formula). This has since been proven wrong. The maximum effective
area of any antenna is simply the largest of either the elements or the
boom.
When calculating forces, the shape factor is the number that you are
looking for. For round members, the shape factor is 1.0. For a flat surface
the shape factor is 1.6.
This all factors into the equation: Load in Lbs. = 0.00256 x (V mph)**2 x
Shape Factor x Projected Area. This is from Section 25 of the National
Electrical Safety Code, ANSI C2-1997. (The bible of electric utilities).
This section has its roots in the UBC regarding wind loads. It also
contains some nifty parts about calculating the wind load on a lattice work
tower and some caveats regarding the use of extreme wind loading.
From: "Match Your Antenna To Your Tower", Roger a, Cox, WB0DGF
(Telex/HyGain), HAM RADIO, June, 1984.....
F = PA,
where F is wind force in pounds, P is the wind pressure in lb./ft^2, and
a is the antenna wind area in ft.^2
P = 0.004 V^2, for FLAT SURFACES where V is wind velocity in MPH
P = 0.004 (0.667) V^2 for ROUND surfaces, where 0.666 is the shape factor
Examples:
At 80 MPH, P = 25.6 lb./sq. ft. (Flat)
At 100 MPH, P = 40 lb./sq. ft. (Flat)
for a 10 sq. ft. antenna, F = 256 lb. @ 80 MPH,
and 400 lb. @ 100 MPH (flat)etc.
Note: The equation P = 0.004 V^2 accounts for gusts and turbulence; for
steady laminar flow, P = 0.00256 V^2 should be used.
Although the formula P = 0.004 V^2 is nice and simple, and was used for
years, there are newer formulas used by EIA-222-D (effective June 1, 1987)
and the -E version (if I can find my copy of it in the stack somewhere).
2.3.10 The design wind load (Fc) on a discrete appurtenance such as an ice
shield, platform, etc (excluding solid microwave antennas/reflectors) shall
be calculated from the equation:
Fc = qz Gh Ca Ac (lb) [N]
qz is the velocity pressure, calculated based on the centerline height of
the appurtenance, qz = .00256 Kz V^2 (lb/ft^2), where Kz = [z/33]^(2/7)
for z in ft. V is in mph. z is the height above average ground in ft. to
midpoint of section. Kz is the exposure coefficient.
Gh is the gust response factor, calculated based on the total height of the
structure, Gh = .65 + .60/(h/33) ^(1/7) for h in ft, 1.00 <= Gh <= 1.25.
Ca is the force coefficient applied to the projected area (ft^2) of a
discrete appurtenance (Ac). If the aspect ratio <= 7 (member length/member
width), then a cylindrical shape has Ca = 0.8. If the aspect ratio >= 7,
then Ca = 1.2. For flat members, use 1.4 or 2.0.
Ac is the projected area of the appurtenance in ft^2.
As you can see, it is much more complex now. I still like the old formula
best. There really isn't any difference in the formula for wind load for
appurtenances (antennas). The main difference is in Table 3, Appurtenance
Force Coefficients. For an aspect ratio <= 7, Ca = 0.8 for cylinders. For
an aspect ratio >= 25, Ca = 1.2. For ratios in-between, use linear
interpolation. If I read this right, most HF antennas would fall into the
Ca = 1.2 category. This is dramatically different from the old 2/3 shape
factor! The effective area spec on our antennas already have this 2/3
shape factor built in, so you might want to multiply by 3/2 to get the
projected area. Other manufacturers may do this differently. The most
accurate method is to find the maximum PROJECTED antenna area (either the
boom or the elements only) AND use the EIA-222-E formulas.
NEWER CALCULATION METHODS
Basics:
All antenna area calculations start with the simple determination of the
projected areas of the antenna components. The projected area is calculated
by multiplying the length x width. A piece of tubing that is 2" dia x 24"
long has a projected area of 48 SqIn. Next, all of the pieces in a specific
component of the antenna (like an element or boom) are added up to get the
total. Usually, the total is divided by 144 to get the area in SqFt.
Then the element areas are added up to get the total elements area when the
wind is parallel to the boom. The boom area applies to when the wind is
parallel to the elements. So, we have the flat projected area of the
antenna at two azimuth angles, 0 & 90 degrees.What happens after this is
what can cause confusion.
Problems:
Effective area Methods:
Back in 1992, when I wrote the 1st version of YagiStress, there was a
popular concept that said the maximum antenna area could be found by
solving the Pythagorean equality (A^2 + B^2 = C^2) using the total element
and total boom areas.
Max area = (Boom area^2 + Element area^2)^.5 This always produced a value
that was larger than either of the two areas and it occurred at azimuth
angles near 45 Deg. I'm pretty sure that Hygain and Force 12 were using
this method to generate their spec's. Leeson (W6QHS now W6NL) and I were
also using it. I was never able to figure out what the others were doing.
Drag Coefficients:
All recognized standards, for analyzing structures subject to wind loading,
allow for the application of a drag coefficient to account for the shape of
the structural members. This is often referred to as a "shape factor". EIA-
222-C (1976) used .666, EIA-222-D (1986) used 1.2, UBC (1988) used .8.
All of the factors reduce the flat projected areas by some amount to arrive
at the "Effective Area" for an antenna using round members.
I think that some Mfgr spec's used this reduction and others may have not.
It is very clear that the spec's did not describe what the value
represented. Some manufacturers, in other publications clarified their
calculations.
Confusion:
It was never very clear in my mind what the numbers represented. In some
cases it was clearer than others, but trying to make intelligent
comparisons was impossible. Now, maybe I was the only one who was confused.
I'm sure most people thought the areas were derived in the same fashion and
could be compared. I am convinced that this was not true.
New Methods:
In the Spring 1993 issue of Communications Quarterly, Dick Weber, K5IU,
published a paper describing wind flow over cylinders at various wind
attack angles. The methods described resulted in very different values from
what many of us were getting. Leeson and myself independently made some
test antennas and separately arrived at the conclusion that the Weber
method was correct. I know that Roger Cox at Hygain, and Tom Schiller at
Force 12 also picked up on it. I have no direct knowledge about the others.
Leeson changed his spreadsheets, but couldn't change his book. I made the
changes for YS 2.0
Here are the changes that come out of the new method, it's termed "The
Cross Flow Principle" by Weber, or the "Sin^2 behavior of Cylinders in
Yaw," by Leeson: The wind flow over the cylinders results only in loads
that are perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder. This means that all
element loads result in forces along the boom axis. Asymmetric element
placement along the boom does not result in a wind torque imbalance. This
makes the Leeson element torque compensator unnecessary and ineffective.
The Max Projected Area of a Yagi is the largest value determined for the
boom or the elements. If the boom area is larger than the total for the
elements, the boom area is the max area. The minimum is somewhere in
between 0-90 deg azimuth. The min area angle is determined by the ratio of
the elements to boom area. If the boom and elements areas are equal the
minimum area occurs at 45 deg.
What do users need from an antenna area Spec.? I define a user as one who
will use the information to evaluate it and make decisions, or a designer
who will use the info to determine loads on a structure. The first thing
most recipients of a specification do, is make an attempt to compare the
area values to other spec's to determine which is "best" or which best
suits their application.
The second thing a user might do with the area value is design, or have his
installation designed. In the U.S., some municipalities require UBC
compliance, others require EIA. I'd guess that differences exist in Europe
also. If the antenna area values are " flat projected areas", it is clear
what the values means and the designer can proceed with applying the
appropriate shape factor and wind pressures according to the code.
If the areas have been already factored, and the spec doesn't tell what was
done, the information is useless. It actually can be dangerous, if the
designer is forced to guess what the value means!
The third thing a user might attempt to do with the information is select a
rotator. Efforts to match antennas and rotators, based on area alone, are
useless. That is another discussion for another day.
Suggestion for a Standard Antenna Area measurement:
Manufacturers should calculate the flat projected areas of the antenna at 0
Degrees & 90 Degrees azimuth, and present them as such. That's it! The user
can decide what shape factors and wind loads to apply for determining loads
on the mast and tower. It is important to list both values. Some antennas
have more area at 0 Deg, others more at 90 Deg.
Example: Most 20 meter yagi's with 4+ elements have more element area than
boom area. 10 & 15 meter yagi's tend to have more boom than element area.
This assumes that the designer has tried to minimize area. We need both 0 &
90 Deg areas to determine the loads on a mast or rotating tower. The max
loads will usually occur at either of the two angles, unless we're lucky
enough to get them equal at both. Another antenna property that we need,
but has not been a consistent part of the antenna spec's is antenna torque.
There is only one generic value, for Mfgr's to define here.
It is the torque developed when the boom is broadside to the wind. This is
caused by either placing the mast connection away from the center of the
boom. Or, coax and balun loads that will cause an imbalance.
There is another (usually small) antenna torque developed by the connection
to the mast (or tower), when the antenna is pointed into the wind. If we
mount the antenna to a 2" Dia or other common size mast, the Mfgr can
provide this torque value. Since, the Mfgr has no control over how we will
mount the antenna to a tower sidemount or TIC ring., he can't determine
what this value is. That's our job!
Just getting the torque value for the wind broadside to the boom case would
be a great improvement! It might make some Mfgr's stop trying to attach the
mast to an antenna at the weight balance point, which is usually not at the
zero wind torque location. At the very least, providing this value, would
allow us to understand why some antennas are "Wind Vanes!," and avoid them,
unless we plan to overpower the problem with more robust rotator!
The equation used in TIA/EIA 222-F which is the latest revision and the UBC
defines the basic wind speed stagnation pressure (a datum) value as:
Qs = 0.00256V*V
This is base on Bernoulli's equation which can be arranged to give:
Qs=1/2*RHOair*V*V8
Density(air) at 59 deg F and 29.92 in Hg is 0.0765 lbs/cf
Rho=Density/g: RHOair=.0765/32.2
To express in MPH Qs=1/2(.0765/32.2)(1/3600)*(1/3600)(5280/1)*(5280/1)*V*V
Qs= 0.00256*V*VI don't know of any safety factor in this.
Hank / KR7X
Previous references to the older EIA 222 Rev C spec. stated the formula in
that spec was .004V^2.Here is why it is different. The Rev C spec included
a built in 30% increase for wind gusts. If we start with the fundamental
00256V^2 and add the 30% increase in wind speed we get a 69% increase in
windload. If we multiply the original formula by 1.69 we end up with
004V^2. That's where that formula came from.
ANOTHER TAKE ON EFFECTIVE PROJECTED AREA
Here is one way of finding "EPA". There are a number of variations and
interpretations that can be used to arrive at slightly different answers.
Calculating EPA is an art form and is subject to one's own style and taste.
The end result should be within 10% to be called "close enough." Let's
define some terms: PA - Projected Area - length x width. FPA - Flat Plate
Area: converts round areas to flat areas by multiplying PA times .67 EPA -
Effective projected area: The projected area (PA) times the shape factor.
(PA x Ca). The term Ca varies with the shape (round, flat, other) and the
length to width ratio. Ca - shape factor of appurtenance. For rounds, Ca
varies between .8 and 1.2 for L/W = 7 to 25 respectively. For flats, varies
from 1.4 to 2.0 for L/W = 7 to 25 respectively.
Where did the confusion on EPA, FPA and PA come from? The EIA-222
specification has had various revisions, resulting in a proliferation of
methods. For Rev C, the world used FPA, and when Rev D came out, the
procedures were changed to EPA. Many antenna manufacturers have still not
updated their catalogs. They may not like the larger EPA numbers or they
may have limited manpower. There are a lot of antenna manufacturers and
many of them use different values and don't say which method they are
using.
The EIA-222-F (current version) spec says that if the antenna is made up
of rounds, you can conservatively multiply FPA by 1.8 to get EPA. One of
the best methods that some antenna manufacturers publish is the thrust
value (T) and the wind speed (V).
To get EPA = T/(.00256 x V x V) (I can't do the squared thing in plain
text) Now the problem gets worse, because almost none of the antenna
manufacturers publish information on their antennas with "ICE" and ice
controls the design of guyed towers (but it is "optional" whether or not to
design for ice and how much ice).
The majority of commercial towers are designed for 1/2" radial ice with 75%
of the basic wind speed wind pressure. So the trick is to figure out which
is the value given in: PA, FPA, or EPA. This is mainly done by looking at
the antenna and determining the length and width of each antenna element
and find its Ca x PA. The total of all elements is the EPA. For ice, you
can repeat the process by adding 1" (for 1/2" radial ice) to all lengths &
widths. Or for a quick approximation, if the antenna is made up of many
different diameters, take the (EPA/1.2) and divide it by the total length
of all the round elements. This will give the average diameter. Then
EPA(1/2") = (D+1") x (L +1") x 1.2
REFURBISHING USED TOWER
TOUCHING UP RUST SPOTS
As long as the tower sections are not corroded to the point where their
physical integrity is suspect, surface rust spots and new, bare steel parts
can be touched up and fresh, protective galvanizing coating applied with a
zinc-bearing paint commonly referred to as cold galvanizing compound. Prep
the surface by wire brushing, followed by a scrub with a piece of 3M
scotchbrite and clear table vinegar. After drying, paint on the cold
galvanizing compound. This paint should contain 90% or more zinc, and the
good stuff will weigh about 25 pounds/gallon, 6.5 pounds/quart. It will
also be expensive, up to $20-30 or so per quart, $60-80 per gallon. Some
good brands are Klein, LPS (cold galvanize), ZRC (Galvilite,
www.zrcworldwide.com ), Sherwin Williams (Zinc Clad #5), Rust-Oleum (#2185)
and DAP (galv-a-grip). LPS also makes an excellent spray-on cold
galvanizing product, although spraying makes less efficient use of the
product on the round tower members than flat plates.
PAINTING
First off, there is special primer for galvanized steel -- highly recommended.
I primed my used Rohn 25 and then painted it with ordinary, dark grey
exterior latex house paint (good quality, but not industrial strength).
After 4+ years, it still looks very good. For lower visibility, I would
use a lighter grey if the main sightline is silhouetted against the sky,
and dark brown if the background is forest. In Reston, Va, not the most
forgiving of places, I knew a guy who had a TH-7 on a 75-foot crankup that
was ALL painted dark brown, and it was very hard to see against the wooded
backdrop.
73, Pete Smith N4ZR
n4zr@contesting.com
i paint all my yagis a flat black spray paint.....it helps keep the ice off
and they look more stealthy!! w7gg
Tower Painters:
You can file this under the "for what it's worth department" --
About twenty years ago, I was faced with painting a new galvanized storage
building. When I posed the problem to a professional painter, he told me to
wipe the building down with a 50/50 solution of vinegar/water prior to
painting. I followed his instructions and the paint never did peel! Soooooo
- --- if your painting a tower, a vinegar/water treatment might be in order --
Any tower over 200-feet (and there are thousands of them) are painted
orange and white for visibility purposes. Hasn't been a problem. It actually
can preserve the galvanizing under a protective layer of paint!
Cheers, Steve K7LXC
Tower Tech
SEPARATING OLD TOWER SECTIONS
I bought an automobile scissors jack at a garage sale and modified it by
having my neighbor weld some small steel angle pieces on the top and bottom
of it such that when I expand it inside of either 45 or 25 tower, it allows
me to easily separate them. I also had him weld a small bar on the jack
where the handle used to be inserted so I can easily hand crank it on the
tower. He also welded a short length of chain with a clip on the end of it
for attaching it to the tower so I won't drop it one someone's head below.
A tip for using this jack: Insert it in the tower and crank it up
against the tower section horizontal cross braces. With all the bolts
removed from the section you are taking down, reach up a couple of feet and
vigorously jerk the tower leg back and forth several inches. The tower
legs should separate a little. Tighten the jack again and shake some more.
Continue this until the sections separate.
ADAPTING CATV HARDLINE for AMATEUR USE
CHOOSING LENGTH
If you make your CATV aluminum sheathed coax 224.5 feet long it will act
like a linear transformer and if you feed it with 50 ohms, you will get 50
ohms out of it at the other end on the frequencies listed above. The minor
difference between 1.775 and 1.8-2.0 MHz is minuscule and it will be great
for all the other bands!!!! Dunno about WARC. Haven't done any
calculations for them. The velocity factor of CATV foam filled aluminum
exterior coax is 0.81. The velocity factor for some air-dielectric types is
0.91.
For foam dielectric, if you want it to be half waves or multiples there of
at 1.775, 3.550, 7.100, 14.200, 21.300, and 28.400 MHz, use the formula:
984/1.775 X .81 and it will give you the answer of 554.366 feet.
That is the length of a full wave length at 1.775 MHz.
Half that for a halfwave and you get 277.183 feet.
Multiply that by the velocity factor of the coax (.81) and you get
277.183 X .81 = 224.5 feet!
HARDLINE CONNECTORS FOR AMATEUR USE
Now for the next problem: connectors.
AD4KT Charlie Davis, Woodland Creek Antennas in Jefferson, GA ,manufactures
PL259 coax plugs for 1/2 and 3/4 inch hardline. He is a physicist at the
Univ of GA. His price is about $8 for the 1/2 inch and $13 for the 3/4
inch. These are very nice product for CATV hardline and I have one in my
hand. His connectors are the appropriate size brass compression copper
tubing fitting machined to fit the PL259. Solder the center conductor,
apply Pentrox to aluminium /brass surface contact area, tighten the
compression fitting and you are done!
You may contact Charlie at 706-367- 8069, cdavis@hal.physast.uga.edu
11 Old Pendergrass Rd., Jefferson, GA 30540
Another source for hardline connectors:
DAVIS RF Co., Commercial wire/cable, RF connectors, custom cable and
connector design.
Discounts to hams. Visit their web site at www.davisRF.com.
1-800-328-4773 (1-800-DAVIS RF) POC: Steve Davis, K1PEK
If you want to home brew:
Go to your local Lowes Store (or Home Depot or whatever) and look for a
1/2" to 3/8" pipe coupling. It
is made by Anderson-Barrows. Its Anderson-Barrows designation is U50. The
description on the outside of the package says:
Tubing to Female Pipe Coupling, Part No. BP966-P, 1/2" x 3/8"
Remove the inner (loose) tubing and discard it. Place the sleeve end over
the 1/2" aluminum tube and move it back a ways. Take a pipe cutter and cut
the aluminum at 7/8" back from the end and then (by taking a utility knife
and cutting through the shield along the axis of the coax, using care to
not cut oneself) remove the 7/8" aluminum shield and cut away the foam from
the center conductor while being careful to not scrape off the copper
plating of the center conductor. When you have accomplished that, you are
ready for the next part.
Now take the previously-obtained Amphenol barrel connector (designation
83-1J... that's important), carefully examine both ends. On one end you'll
see a small c-ring insert. Taking a narrow-bladed hacksaw, cut the end of
the barrel connector along the axis of the barrel connector so that the
blade bisects and cuts the middle of the c-ring insert.
Voila! The insides now fall out! You'll find you have two plastic inserts
and a center conductor. The barrel center conductor will fit over the end
of the coax center conductor. Solder it to the coax center conductor so
that the closest part of the barrel's center conductor from the aluminum
jacket on the coax is 7/16"
Insert one of the plastic inserts back into the barrel so that the end that
was not cut will capture the insert. Take the end of the barrel that was
cut by the hacksaw and screw it into the threaded end of the U50 coupler.
Now take the U50 outer section and (after first putting Penetrox A around
the outer portion of the aluminum jacket from the edge to about 3/4" back)
slide the sleeve portion up and screw the outer portion into it. As it is
being screwed together, two things happen:
(1) The compression fitting clamps down on the aluminum sleeved coax.
(2) The end of the barrel's center conductor will come right up snug with
the end of the barrel.
You are now an expert! You can go fit the other end with much greater
ease!
It works great. Be sure and waterproof it with Starbrite Liquid Electrical
Tape or Scotch 33 or Scotch 88 plus some coax seal on top of that, plus
another layer of Scotch 33 or Scotch 88 on top of that and you have
yourself one Hell of a connection!
The folks at N6IJ, have recently found a quick, simple termination to
our 75 ohm surplus CATV coax (.75") used in longer runs at the site.
Simply hacksaw the aluminum jacket, in quarters, about 1" along the axis of
the coax, and use an Xacto knife and Needle Nose pliers to tear out the
foam dielectric, about 3/4" deep into the clean cut end, and insert a
Barrel UHF fitting, hose clamping the jacket tightly to the barrrel, and
seal with tape. Use NoAlox sparingly between the barrel and the inside of
the jacket. Do not use too much NoAlox, or else it may cause a short
between the center and jacket.
For another description and photos for making these CATV connectors, see
May, 1992 QST under Hints & Kinks, or the ARRL UHF/Microwave Projects
Manual.
Here's another description for terminating hardline:
For the 1/2 inch CATV try using a reducing compression union, 5/8" to 1/2"
(True Value part 286-738). Cut the plastic coating (if it has it) back
about 1.75". Cut the aluminum jacket about 1.5 inches from the end of the
CATV. Use a plumber's tube cutter for clean edges. Then strip about 3/4" of
the dielectric away from the center conductor. Put the 1/2" nut and the
compression ring over the aluminum jacket. Shove the dielectric and center
conductor into the compression union just as far as you can, making sure
that the aluminum jacket gets inside the seat of the 1/2" end of the union.
You should have an ample amount of the center conductor coming out the
5/8" end of the union. Slip the compression ring down on the seat of the
union followed by the nut. Tighten it down. Take a UHF barrel and shove
it on the center conductor. Make sure it also engages the seat of the
compression union. The center conductor should go no more than halfway into
the barrel. If you have extra on the center conductor, trim it to make it
fit. Put the 5/8" compression ring on the UHF barrel followed by the nut.
Crank it down making sure that things are tight and secure. When you put
it up on the tower, take either some silicon tape or liquid rubber with
you. Apply it generously over the entire connection followed with a good
wrap of electrical tape.
The center conductor of the 1/2" hardline may be a little bit smaller than
the center of the UHF barrel. Go to the local hobby shop for some fuel
line used in model airplanes, about the next to the smallest size they
have. Solder a piece big enough to cover the center conductor in place and
shove it into the barrel for a nice tight fit.
For the 3/4 CATV, it's a different story. You will probably not find a 3/4
to 5/8 reducing compression union, they are apparently rare (if they exist
at all). Try a 3/4" female hose thread connector that reduces to 1/2"
female pipe thread, a 3/4" to 5/8" reducing male, and the compression nut
for a 5/8" union. Cut away about 1.5" of the aluminum jacket. Using the 3/4
female, start it on the jacket and "score" threads into the jacket, just as
far down as you can get it. Take the male and turn it into the end of the
female that the CATV comes out of. Tighten it down. With as much of the
dielectric as you can get into it, cut away the dielectric. Slide the UHF
barrel over it, cut it where needed and secure it with the compression
ring and nut. WX proof as above.
All of the compression fittings and connectors are available from True
Value hardware and about three bucks apiece. helps.
* DO NOT use penetrox because with time it will migrate and cause a blow
out (always in the middle of a European run in a contest)
* DO use silicone grease between the aluminum shield and the barrel
connector to keep corrosion down.
* Seal it as well as you can
* Do NOT use Radio Shack barrel connectors as they will invariably break
down during the big JA runs in a contest
Try to use hard splices as much as possible for the longest term solution.
Use 1/8 inch hobby store brass tubing and slit it longitudinally with a
dremel tool to slip over the center conductors that are butted together and
soldered. Then lay the copper shield of RG-11 over the aluminum shield and
smear it up with plenty of silicone grease and seal it well.
WASPS
Towers, for some reason, are a magnet for wasps that like to make their
nests on them high above the ground. You will need a product like Wasp-
Freeze, or Bee-Bopper to spray them from a distance if they build a nest on
your tower or antennas. They are least active when it is dark and cold.
Very early morning is a good time to attack them. If you get stung, the
best sting remedies seem to be ammonia, and a paste made from Adolf's meat
tenderizer and water, which contains an enzyme papain that will break down
the poisons in the sting.
BUILDING YOUR OWN BALUN
Here's something by Ed Gilbert, WA2SRQ, on the effectiveness of homebrew
choke baluns. They are cheap and effective.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Having access to a Hewlett-Packard 4193A vector impedance meter at work, I
have made measurements on a number of baluns, coaxial and otherwise. For
my beams I was particularly interested how many turns and on what diameter
are optimum for air core coaxial baluns, and what the effect of bunching
the turns was (formless). Using the remote programming capability of the
HP4193A along with an instrument controller, I measured the magnitude and
phase of each balun's winding impedance at 1 MHz intervals from 1 to 35
MHz. For comparison, I also made measurements on a commercial balun which
consists of a number of ferrite beads slipped over a short length of coax.
I've appended some of these measurements so you can draw your own
conclusions.
PVC pipe was used for coil forms. The 4-1/4 inch diameter baluns were
wound on thin-walled PVC labeled "4 inch sewer pipe". This material makes
an excellent balun form. It's very light weight and easy to work with, and
I obtained a 10 foot length at the local Home Depot for about 3 dollars.
The 6-5/8 inch diameter forms are 6 inch schedule 40 PVC pipe which is much
thicker, heavier, and more expensive.
Each test choke was close-wound on a form as a single-layer solenoid using
RG-213 and taped to hold the turns in place. The lengths of cable were cut
so there was about 2 inches excess at each end. This allowed just enough
wire at the ends for connections to the HP4193A's probe tip. After data
was collected for each single-layer configuration, the PVC form was
removed, the turns were bunched together and taped formless, and another
set of measurements was taken. I have only included the "bunched"
measurements in the table for one of the baluns, but the trend was the same
in each case. When compared to the single-layer version of the same
diameter and number of turns, the bunched baluns show a large downward
shift in parallel self-resonance frequency and poor choking reactance at
the higher frequencies.
Interpreting the Measurements
-----------------------------
All the baluns start out looking inductive at low frequencies, as indicated
by the positive phase angles. As the frequency is increased, a point is
reached where the capacitance between the windings forms a parallel
resonance with the coil's inductance. Above this frequency, the winding
reactance is reduced by this capacitance. The interwinding capacitance
increases with the number of turns and the diameter of the turns, so "more
is not always better".
The effects of a large increase in interwinding capacitance is evident in
the measurements on the balun with the bunched turns. This is probably a
result of the first and last turns of the coil being much closer together
than the single-layer coil.
An important requirement of these baluns is that the magnitude of the
winding reactance be much greater than the load impedance. In the case of
a 50 ohm balanced antenna, the balun's winding impedance is effectively
shunted across one half the 50 ohm load impedance, or 25 ohms. A
reasonable critera for the balun's winding impedance for negligible common
mode current in the shield is that it be at least 20 times this, or 500
ohms. The measurements show, for example, that 6 turns 4-1/4 inches in
diameter meet this criteria from 14 to 35 MHz.
The measurement data also reveals the power loss these baluns will exhibit.
Each of the measurement points can be transformed from the polar format of
the table to a parallel equivalent real and reactive shunt impedance. The
power dissipated in the balun is then the square of the voltage across it
divided by the real parallel equivalent shunt impedance. While this
calculation can be made for each measurement point, an approximate number
can be taken directly from the tables at the parallel resonance points. At
0 degrees phase angle the magnitude numbers are pure resistive. I didn't
record the exact resonance points, but it can be seen from the tables that
the four single-layer baluns are all above 15K ohms, while the ferrite bead
balun read about 1.4K. These baluns see half the load voltage, so at 1500
watts to a 50 ohm load, the power dissipated in the coaxial baluns will be
less than 1.3 watts, and the ferrite bead balun will dissipate about 13.4
watts (neglecting possible core saturation and other non-linear effects).
These losses are certainly negligible. At 200 ohms load impedance, the
losses are under 5 watts for the coaxial baluns and 53.6 watts for the
ferrite beads.
Conclusions
-----------
- A 1:1 coaxial balun with excellent choking reactance for 10 through 20
meters can be made by winding 6 turns of RG-213 on inexpensive 4 inch PVC
sewer pipe.
- For 40 or 30 meters, use 12 turns of RG-213 on 4 inch PVC sewer pipe.
- Don't bunch the turns together. Wind them as a single layer on a form.
Bunching the turns kills the choking effect at higher frequencies.
- Don't use too many turns. For example, the HyGain manuals for my 10 and
15 meter yagis both recommend 12 turns 6 inches in diameter. At the very
least this is about 3 times as much coax as is needed, and these dimensions
actually give less than the desired choking impedance on 10 and 15 meters.
Measurements
------------
Magnitude in ohms, phase angle in degrees, as a function of frequency
in Hz, for various baluns.
6 Turns 12 Turns 4 Turns 8 Turns 8 Turns Ferrite
4-1/4 in 4-1/4 in 6-5/8 in 6-5/8 in 6-5/8 in beads
sngl layer sngl layer sngl layer sngl layer bunched (Aztec)
---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ----------
Frequency Mag Phase Mag Phase Mag Phase Mag Phase Mag Phase Mag Phase
1.00E+06 26 88.1 65 89.2 26 88.3 74 89.2 94 89.3 416 78.1
2.00E+06 51 88.7 131 89.3 52 88.8 150 89.3 202 89.2 795 56.1
3.00E+06 77 88.9 200 89.4 79 89.1 232 89.3 355 88.9 1046 39.8
4.00E+06 103 89.1 273 89.5 106 89.3 324 89.4 620 88.3 1217 26.6
5.00E+06 131 89.1 356 89.4 136 89.2 436 89.3 1300 86.2 1334 14.7
6.00E+06 160 89.3 451 89.5 167 89.3 576 89.1 8530 59.9 1387 3.6
7.00E+06 190 89.4 561 89.5 201 89.4 759 89.1 2120 -81.9 1404 -5.9
8.00E+06 222 89.4 696 89.6 239 89.4 1033 88.8 1019 -85.7 1369 -15.4
9.00E+06 258 89.4 869 89.5 283 89.4 1514 87.3 681 -86.5 1295 -23.7
1.00E+07 298 89.3 1103 89.3 333 89.2 2300 83.1 518 -86.9 1210 -29.8
1.10E+07 340 89.3 1440 89.1 393 89.2 4700 73.1 418 -87.1 1123 -35.2
1.20E+07 390 89.3 1983 88.7 467 88.9 15840 -5.2 350 -87.2 1043 -39.9
1.30E+07 447 89.2 3010 87.7 556 88.3 4470 -62.6 300 -86.9 954 -42.7
1.40E+07 514 89.3 5850 85.6 675 88.3 2830 -71.6 262 -86.9 901 -45.2
1.50E+07 594 88.9 42000 44.0 834 87.5 1910 -79.9 231 -87.0 847 -48.1
1.60E+07 694 88.8 7210 -81.5 1098 86.9 1375 -84.1 203 -87.2 778 -51.8
1.70E+07 830 88.1 3250 -82.0 1651 81.8 991 -82.4 180 -86.9 684 -54.4
1.80E+07 955 86.0 2720 -76.1 1796 70.3 986 -67.2 164 -84.9 623 -45.9
1.90E+07 1203 85.4 1860 -80.1 3260 44.6 742 -71.0 145 -85.1 568 -51.2
2.00E+07 1419 85.2 1738 -83.8 3710 59.0 1123 -67.7 138 -84.5 654 -34.0
2.10E+07 1955 85.7 1368 -87.2 12940 -31.3 859 -84.3 122 -86.1 696 -49.9
2.20E+07 3010 83.9 1133 -87.8 3620 -77.5 708 -86.1 107 -85.9 631 -54.8
2.30E+07 6380 76.8 955 -88.0 2050 -83.0 613 -86.9 94 -85.5 584 -57.4
2.40E+07 15980 -29.6 807 -86.3 1440 -84.6 535 -86.3 82 -85.0 536 -58.8
2.50E+07 5230 -56.7 754 -82.2 1099 -84.1 466 -84.1 70 -84.3 485 -59.2
2.60E+07 3210 -78.9 682 -86.4 967 -83.4 467 -81.6 60 -82.7 481 -56.2
2.70E+07 2000 -84.4 578 -87.3 809 -86.5 419 -85.5 49 -81.7 463 -60.5
2.80E+07 1426 -85.6 483 -86.5 685 -87.1 364 -86.2 38 -79.6 425 -62.5
2.90E+07 1074 -85.1 383 -84.1 590 -87.3 308 -85.6 28 -75.2 387 -63.8
3.00E+07 840 -83.2 287 -75.0 508 -87.0 244 -82.1 18 -66.3 346 -64.4
3.10E+07 661 -81.7 188 -52.3 442 -85.7 174 -69.9 9 -34.3 305 -64.3
3.20E+07 484 -78.2 258 20.4 385 -83.6 155 -18.0 11 37.2 263 -63.2
3.30E+07 335 -41.4 1162 -13.5 326 -78.2 569 -0.3 21 63.6 212 -58.0
3.40E+07 607 -32.2 839 -45.9 316 -63.4 716 -57.6 32 71.4 183 -40.5
3.50E+07 705 -58.2 564 -56.3 379 -69.5 513 -72.5 46 76.0 235 -29.6
ATTACHING ELECTRICAL ENCLOSURES TO YOUR TOWER
Use some galvanized, punched strut. It's a channel shaped material, also
referred to as Kindorf, Power Strut, Uni Strut, as well as many other
names. Bolt this to the tower using U-bolts, or clamps, then use strut
nuts, or spring nuts inside the channel to screw the box to.
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