apologies for another post, but in case anyone tries this, I have
to correct my prior post. Sorry for being anal here about something
of narrow interest.
I realized I had a brain fart after I posted. I had mounted the clamps
90 degrees clockwise from the correct position, so the center alignment
slot wasn't
being used. This was bad because the center wasn't supported. Basically
my previous post was just wrong and that way shouldn't be used.
The goal is achievable, but it's this way: .
I redid the fix today, and the result is much better. Turns out I didn't
need the grind I mentioned yesterday.
The right fix, so the alignment slot is used (so the clamps will be
centered nicely), is to cut two grooves in the offending lip, to create
a path for the two ribs on the rotator to pass thru. The effect is
that a "nub" gets created that mimics the alignment "nub" on the normal
clamps. This new nub is not as long as the normal one, but that's okay...
it's just for alignment.
However, these cuts have to be more precise, since when the nub
is in the alignment slot on the rotator, you can't change the
alignment...i.e. if
you put the cuts in the wrong place, you won't be centered (unless you
create
a lot of slop with the cuts, but you don't want that, because it's a lot
easier to just make good cuts, and use the alignment ribs on the rotator
like
they're meant to be used)
The way I did it, was to clamp the base of the L's of the normal and
new clamp together, aligning the oblong holes. Then I marked the new
clamp with
an indelible marker, where the "nub" was on the old clamp. This is the exact
center of the clamp, which is the key thing. I made the mark the same width
as the old alignment nub. This is key because it has to fit in the groove
on the rotator.
I then used a dremel tool with a thin abrasive wheel to cut/grind a slot
on either
side of the mark. Don't need that much. It's good to try it out on the
rotator..
so you'll want the rotator out to play with. The sharp edge of a half
round file
will also work. I used that and also a chain saw file, although the
slots don't
need to be that big..(doesn't hurt if bigger. Key thing is to have the
center
nub the right width, so the clamps slide without wobble while aligning.
If you had a mill, that would be the real right way to do it.
Result is much better. Just redid mine today. Mast fully tightened and
rotates well without interference, so alignment went well. The clamps
almost fully
close on a 2" mast, so you can't see the alignment measurement numbers
on the rotator while centering/tightening. I eyeballed the bolt
position in the oblong
lots to make sure the clamp was truly centered on the rotator.
Upshot: I'm very happy with the result.
-kevin
KE6RAD
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