Bill VanAlstyne, W5WVO wrote:
>
>Dunno. Others on the list may comment on zinc-aluminum contact
>interaction, if there is any. But I'd recommend staying with s/s parts,
>with the caveat that you use a good anti-seize on the threads when
>assembling. They will last pretty much forever if you do that. Penetrox
>works fine, as do most auto-shop anti-seize compounds. Some will say to
>steer clear of anti-seize with copper flakes in it; I've never
>encountered any problem with that type, but probably best to avoid it.
>
Didn't K7NV talk about this a few years ago? It must have been here...
As I recall, he recommended using thread-locking compound rather than a
pure anti-seize, because:
(a) it lubricates the sliding thread surfaces enough to prevent galling
- a particular problem with stainless steel
(b) it locks the threads (within 24 hours) so you don't need locking
hardware, and you don't need to crank the nuts up so hard
(c) it seals inside the nut against corrosion.
The net result is that it stays put, but will also come apart.
The Loctite "blue" grade gives firm enough locking but can still be
undone with hand tools. A small dropper bottle lasts a very long time -
just put a few drops on the bolt, where the nut is going to be, and run
the nut on over it.
Hot dip galvanized hardware doesn't need lubrication (the zinc coating
does that) but it does need some kind of thread-locking, of course.
That advice has worked very well for me.
--
73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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