Tony,
In the past some people put the capacitor close to the rotator to free up 2
extra wires to parallel with others. This helps but I don't think the need
for mounting the capacitor at the rotator is an improvement. In fact, now
you have a weather proofing problem and the capacitor is subject to the
elements of hot and cold wx.
The real problem with the Ham M rotators (excepting the case of a dead
capacitor) is with rotation/opening the brake and the resistance of the
control wires, especially if the control cable is over 100 feet. This can
be helped by using the so called "heavy duty" 8 conductor cable which
bumps up the wire sizes by 2. Hence the control wires are much heavier. I
believe the standard 8 conductor cable is 2 #18 and 6 #22 AWG wires while
the heavy duty is 2 #16 and 6 #18. Perhaps even another jump up is
advisable for long runs (like I have!).
73,
Joe, W1JR
At 02:47 PM 8/14/2002 -0400, N2TK wrote:
>Ditto. Works fine doing it this way. Closer tot eh rotor the better for the
>motor start cap. Plus you get to double up two wires. It's a win-win.
>Tony
>N2TK
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: towertalk-admin@contesting.com
>[mailto:towertalk-admin@contesting.com]On Behalf Of Mike Gilmer, N2MG
>Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 14:05
>To: towertalk@contesting.com
>Cc: k1uo@prexar.com
>Subject: [Towertalk] T2X Start cap at tower base?
>
>K1UO wrote:
>
><< I notice from the T2X schematic that the start cap is across pins 4
>and 8 of the connectors. If I cut the rotor cable about 5 ft up from
>the base of the tower and put the start cap and weatherproof housing
>there will I notice any difference in T2X start operation?
>Has anyone already tried this? I can leave the other start cap in the
>control head and just insulate those particular leads out at the tower
>base.>>
>
>Closer is better - many folks split the difference (between mounting
>right at the rotator - where it belongs - and leaving it in the control
>box - where CDE put it) and mount the cap at the bottom of the tower
>where it's accessible. Leave the start cap in the controller and just
>disconnect the wires on 4 and 8.
>
>Since you then have two "spare" wires from control box to tower base,
>you can then double up the the heavy (brake/motor) wires on 1 and 2 for
>some more benefit.
>
>Mike N2MG
>
>
>
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