If only half a yard of concrete is needed it is quite practical to use a
small concrete mixer and mix it on site.
Even possible to mix that much by hand in a wheel barrow. Even for an old
fart like me.
Beats going to the gym.
73
end
Barry Kirkwood PhD ZL1DD
Signal Hill Homestay
66 Cory Road
Palm Beach
Waiheke Island 1240
NEW ZEALAND
www.waiheke.co.nz/signal.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Tower Talk Digest <owner-towertalk-digest@contesting.com>
To: <towertalk-digest@contesting.com>
Sent: Monday, 09 April, 2001 3:49 PM
Subject: Tower Talk Digest V4 #142
>
> Tower Talk Digest Sunday, April 8 2001 Volume 04 : Number
142
>
>
>
> In this issue:
>
> [TowerTalk] Re:Beam Orientation in Wind--How To Eliminate It.
> Re: [TowerTalk] Re:Beam Orientation in Wind--How To Eliminate It.
> [TowerTalk] Prop Pitch Motor(s) Wanted
> Re: [TowerTalk] permit help/engineer stamp?
> [TowerTalk] Daiwa
> Re: [TowerTalk] T2X and the Ring Rotor Control Box
> Re: [TowerTalk] Daiwa
> [TowerTalk] Pouring concrete
> [TowerTalk] My new EarthLink email address
> Re: [TowerTalk] Pouring concrete
> Re: [TowerTalk] Pouring concrete
> Re: [TowerTalk] Pouring concrete
>
> See the end of the digest for information about towertalk-digest
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 07:52:27 EDT
> From: K7GCO@aol.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Re:Beam Orientation in Wind--How To Eliminate It.
>
> In a message dated 4/7/01 5:01:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time, n3rr@erols.com
> writes:
> <<
> Ford,
> Turn your beam so that it is "radiating" into the wind. That's
> the least load on both the elements and the rotor.
>
> BTW, what melted? Ice at the base of the tower? What's your QTH?
>
> Bill, N3RR
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ford Peterson <ford@cmgate.com>
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2001 12:49 AM
> Subject: [TowerTalk] What a weekend!!!
>
> > About all I can do is sit at the window and worry.
> >
> > My 80' tower (68' rohn tiltover with 20' mast sticking 12 feet out of
the
> > thrust bearing) is standing in over a foot of water, which just melted.
> The wx today is like nothing I've ever seen... 60+mph sustained winds
most
> of
> > the day. Gusts must be much higher.
> >
> > It looks like the tribander is holding up. The 11el 2mtr beam at the
top
> is whipping around like a flag on a pole. I faced the beam into the
wind
> last night in anticipation of today. My guts keep telling me to turn
it
> 90
> > degrees from the wind to reduce the wind load. I've been told that it
is
> > easier on the beam/tower turned out of the wind but can damage the
rotor.
> > The rotor is an alliance of some sort--ham fest special went up two
years
> > ago in a very big hurry to beat old man winter...
> >
> > What's a fella to do? Into the wind or out of the wind?
> >
> Ford-N0FP
> > ford@cmgate.com
> >
> > Too bad 160 is lousy. I'll bet the tower in a swamp would be a killer
on
> > 160....
>
> Ford: Rotator design has been so deficient for many years that if you use
> what the mfgs recommend, you will be lucky to get 10 years out of it and
do a
> lot of worrying. One size larger may give you 20 years. If you play the
> "orientation favor game" in the wind and/or use the BMW drive shaft
cushion
> you might a get a few more years. The ideal rotator is one the can take
all
> the wind ice loads regardless of the orientation and without all kinds of
"TT
> Band Aids" that are constantly recommended year after year. A poorly
> designed tower, rotator & beam will cause you no end of grief, worry and
> money.
>
> I also prefer speeds faster than 1 RPM as I run a lot of antenna patterns
and
> its great for quickly finding the true direction of a DX station even with
> low gain beams. This concept is constantly bad mouthed by those who have
> never ever experienced or used a fast rotator or other recommendations and
is
> a bad habit of some on TT.
>
> There is a rotator that can handle the largest beams without all the "band
> aids" and concern for beam orientation in any wind. I've used them for
over
> 55 years and have never had a mechanical break down. They do have to be
> installed so that water cannot get into them or some bearings will rust.
> They are all replaceable except one and/or repairable. They can be
speeded
> up to as high as 6 RPM and handle a 3 element 20M beam with ease. Bigger
> beams can be rotated at 2-3 RPM with great results.
>
> It's called a "Prop Pitch Motor" off the W.W.II airplanes. There are
still
> many around and there are 3 major sizes. The small one will handle say a
7
> element 10M beam with easy even speeded up to 3 RPM as I have done it.
The
> medium one will handle just about anything else. It was my first one and
> it's still in use at 6 RPM. There is a larger one which I haven't seen
yet
> but am trying to get one for a use on a 2M beam--just kidding.
>
> When speeded up it "builds up" to speed and will torque the tower at the
> rotator point in proportion to the weight to the beam and speed. Torque
arms
> at the rotator are useful to reduce the torquing of the tower. I always
use
> a 20' mast 15' into the tower which lowers the torque point on the tower.
> When the large PP is revved up to 6 RPM with a 20M 3 element beam on it,
it
> will coast for 90 degrees. So the speed change is gradual building up and
> down. In ham radio you have to learn how to design mechanically for
whatever
> the stresses are or you may have a problem to fix in the winter time.
>
> You do have to come up with a direction indication system using a selsyn
and
> I have a very good and trouble free system. I also have a rotating globe
> direction indicator with the top axis point centered on Seattle driven by
the
> 110V selsyn. The smaller ones drive the compass needles just fine. When
I
> get time I will write it up for one of the mags.
>
> I keep hearing complaints repeated that when the PP is speeded up it will
> turn in the wind with the big beams like a 40M 3 element. The turns ratio
of
> the gears would drop from say around 6000/1 to say 2000/1. You still have
> plenty to spare. I've never had it happen with all the big beams I've
used.
> I'm told it takes a couple of hours to do it in the wind. My answer to
that
> is "SO WHAT". In doing so it does just what you would want of orienting
the
> beam into a more favorable position to reduce the stress on the boom,
tower
> and guy wires. It automatically takes care of your concern. What more
could
> you ask? There are those that would complain if hung with a new rope. If
> the doesn't move and you are still worried about your beam in the wind,
you
> have serious design deficiency problems that need to be corrected.
>
> If properly installed the PP will last you a life time of trouble free and
> "no worry service." I'd recommend checking it over about every 50 years
or 1
> average life time of use. I paid $10 for my first one. I just paid $50
for
> the medium PP and that's the highest I ever paid for all that I have.
I've
> been working it over and speeding it up. It's pure mechanical joy working
on
> these PP motors if you know how. I have all kinds of pictures I've taken
> over the years of the various stages of assembly and conversions and may
> publish something on them. It would be a difficult task for many without
> pictures and the necessary mechanical insights. There is a trick of
assembly
> that if not followed you will never get it together.
>
> I'd suggest going to the archives on PP motors and reading them and I have
> more info here. Remember if properly installed, no "Band Aids" are needed
> and it will last a life time. There is no Reflector for PP motors that I
> know of--it doesn't need any. It's original speed with about 28VDC is 3/4
> RPM which is just too damn slow for "advanced beam use". When speeded up
> mechanically it can be slowed down again just by lowering the voltage.
I've
> used a Variac on the PS to get the speed I wanted. I've speeded up all
the
> other light rotators I have and even the small TV rotators for many
friends.
> They love the way they work. Someday it may catch on. You have to try it
> first. I've spent the least money over 55 years for rotators, have had
the
> least rotator problems of any ham (none) and the greatest utility and joy
of
> use of anyone. When you learn to select and use the right parts and
> components in ham radio, it will save you a lot of money and grief. If
you
> don't you will need a full time Reflector for info to solve your problems
> with one band aid or costly replacement after another. Replacing a
rotator
> is not an easy job. This is regularly one of the biggest and most costly
and
> time delaying problems in ham radio. Design and select for longevity and
no
> concern or worry for the wind speed. None of the fancy mast bearings are
> needed--that often fail. I use a simple aluminum surface to surface
bearing
> I make that never rusts or fails. Any PP motor you find today will have
to
> be over hauled. K7GCO
>
> List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers, safety
> equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
http://www.championradio.com
>
> - -----
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 09:31:18 -0700
> From: "Dan Evans" <n9rla@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Re:Beam Orientation in Wind--How To Eliminate It.
>
> snip
>
> I've speeded up all the
> > other light rotators I have and even the small TV rotators for many
> friends.
> > They love the way they work. Someday it may catch on. You have to try
it
> > first. K7GCO
>
> You've got my attention:-) I would love to "speed up" the TV rotor that I
> use in my Rover setup. My rotor typically has a very small load, just a
> couple of small VHF yagi's. How do you go about speeding them up? I've
> often thought about this. Often during VHF contests, by the time I get
the
> beam around the station I'm looking for has already moved his, or left the
> band.
>
> I am currently using a channel master TV rotor, but I also have an
Alliance
> U110 available.
>
> 73
> Dan
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers, safety
> equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
http://www.championradio.com
>
> - -----
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 12:20:21 -0400
> From: antipode <antipode@ne.mediaone.net>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Prop Pitch Motor(s) Wanted
>
> I am looking to buy up to 2 prop pitch motors. I'm looking for the
> small size (the ones that are approx. 8 inches in diameter) in
> unmodified and good condition complete with the motor cover and the
> matching bevel gear for the output hub.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bill Sievers
> W5IQJ
>
> List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers, safety
> equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
http://www.championradio.com
>
> - -----
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 12:45:04 EDT
> From: K7LXC@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] permit help/engineer stamp?
>
> In a message dated 4/7/01 8:43:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ukii@megsinet.net
> writes:
>
> > Well,back to my buddy who has a correctly installed
> > Tri-Ex 70ft tower installed...
> > Well,he didnt have a permit as was told by the city of
> > Chicago to get one,,,
> > Well,after much grief,he is now at the point where they
> > will issue him a permit if he gets a Structural Engineer
> > to sign the Tri-Ex plans (instructions) and the permit
> > application...
> > Well,I was kinda under the impression that the tri-ex plans were
drafted by
> > an engineer and approved by
> > "someone" before this thing was sold...
> > ANYWHO,Please,anyone know a structural engineer in Illinois that might
sign
> > this thing without charging an arm and a leg? (1 estimate was 5k!!!)
>
> Go to the ARRL website and look for 'Volunteer Consulting Engineers'.
>
> Yes, going to an engineering firm is expensive although $5k is REAL
> exorbitant. My PE does them in his spare time and charges me $400.
>
> Cheers, Steve K7LXC
> Tower Tech
>
> List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers, safety
> equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
http://www.championradio.com
>
> - -----
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 18:00:28 +0100
> From: "Bill Hider" <n3rr@erols.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Daiwa
>
> Does anybody know where/how I can buy a Daiwa switch,
> model CS-4? It's a single pole, 4 throw, rotary switch
> with BNC connectors. I use it to switch my
> Beverage antennas and I need four more of them.
>
> Yahoo and Google searches for "Daiwa" yield only
> fishing equipment and securities investments.
>
> I've tried many, many ham radio companies using links on
> many Websites. No one seems to handle the CS-4 switch.
> I've spent probably 10 hours on the Internet researching this.
>
> Maybe one of you knows who is the US Daiwa electronics distributor?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill, N3RR
>
>
>
>
>
> List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers, safety
> equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
http://www.championradio.com
>
> - -----
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 14:50:21 -0500
> From: "Richard Hassell-Bennett" <hasben@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] T2X and the Ring Rotor Control Box
>
> Hi Nat.
>
> FYI The T2X box is designed to run an AC motor, while the Tic box is
> designed for a 24VDC motor.
> Feed back for position on both rotors is via a 500 ohm potentiometer.
>
> You could make a box with two 24v DC relays and a transformer to do what
you
> want. But the best answer is to use the rotor EZ by Idiom Press. It would
be
> much easier to achieve, and give better results.
>
> 73 de Rich K0XG
>
> see www.idiompress.com
>
>
>
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nat Heatwole" <heatwole@clark.net>
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 9:47 PM
> Subject: [TowerTalk] T2X and the Ring Rotor Control Box
>
>
> > Hi all. I'm wondering if it would be possible to drive a Hy-Gain T2X (or
> > similar) rotor with the control box from a TIC Ring Rotor? Obviously, if
> > this was possible, some modification would be necessary to make them
> totally
> > compatible with each other, but my question is if in fact it would be
> > possible to accomplish this? I really like the
features/price/reliability
> of
> > the T2X rotor but find the Ring Rotor's control box easier to operate
and
> > the "point and shoot" aspect is very nice. Would a combination of the
T2X
> > rotor and the Ring Rotor control box be possible or will it forever
remain
> a
> > dream?
> >
> > 73, Nat, WZ3AR
> > <heatwole@clark.net>
> > Damascus, Maryland
> >
> >
> > List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers, safety
> > equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
> http://www.championradio.com
> >
> > -----
> > FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> > Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> > Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> > Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
> >
>
>
> List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers, safety
> equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
http://www.championradio.com
>
> - -----
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 20:29:54 +0100
> From: "Bill Hider" <n3rr@erols.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Daiwa
>
> Norm,
>
> I found Universal Radio, but they don't have the CS-4, only the CS-201 and
> CS-401.
>
> Anyone else have any ideas?
>
> Bill
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: Norman Hockler <norsan@bright.net>
> To: Bill Hider <n3rr@erols.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2001 7:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Daiwa
>
>
> > Universal Radio has it in their catalog. de Norm N8NH
> >
> >
> > At 06:00 PM 4/8/01 +0100, you wrote:
> > >Does anybody know where/how I can buy a Daiwa switch,
> > >model CS-4? It's a single pole, 4 throw, rotary switch
> > >with BNC connectors. I use it to switch my
> > >Beverage antennas and I need four more of them.
> > >
> > >Yahoo and Google searches for "Daiwa" yield only
> > >fishing equipment and securities investments.
> > >
> > >I've tried many, many ham radio companies using links on
> > >many Websites. No one seems to handle the CS-4 switch.
> > >I've spent probably 10 hours on the Internet researching this.
> > >
> > >Maybe one of you knows who is the US Daiwa electronics distributor?
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >Bill, N3RR
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers,
safety
> > >equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages &
> > >more! http://www.championradio.com
> > >
> > >-----
> > >FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> > >Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> > >Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> > >Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
> >
> >
>
>
> List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers, safety
> equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
http://www.championradio.com
>
> - -----
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 14:04:54 -0500
> From: "N9EN@VOYAGER.NET" <n9en@voyager.net>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Pouring concrete
>
> This summer, I am going to finish the installation of some
> heavy-duty guy anchors for my two "short" Rohn 25G
> towers (62' & 68'). Last summer, I dug 6 holes (by hand)
> that were 3' square by 4' deep. I ran out of time before
> the snow started to fall and didn't get the ground slotted
> to allow the anchor rods to come out of the ground at the
> proper angle, nor did I get the re-bar assemblies made up
> and installed. I hope to have all of that done in the next
> few weeks, weather permitting.
>
> I'm going to have 1/2 cubic yard of concrete in each hole,
> for a total of 3 cubic yards of concrete. I don't want a
> cement truck driving all over my lawn, creating deep ruts
> from the weight of it and was trying to come up with some
> practical alternatives.
>
> A friend of mine has a heavy-duty contractors' wheelbarrow
> that he has offered to let me borrow. But I have no idea of
> how many "trips" it would take to wheel all that concrete.
> My driveway is 100' long and if the truck were to remain
> parked in the road at the end of the driveway, that would
> be a lot of trips, I'm guessing.
>
> I've thought about employing the use of an "Agri-Fab"
> utility cart that I can pull behind my garden tractor. The
> specifications for the cart say that it has a capacity of
> 1,200 lbs. (it has a 10 cu. ft. capacity). The specs also
> say that a cubic foot of dirt weighs approximately 150
> pounds and I've loaded that cart with dirt until it would
> hold no more dirt.
>
> I thought about the possibility of filling the cart 1/2 way
> with concrete & hauling it to the holes in that manner. I
> made a heavier-duty "tailgate" for it, using 14 gauge
> steel, that simply lifts up out of the channels that it is
> mounted in. But I was wondering how difficult it would
> be to lift up with the cart partially filled with concrete.
>
> I also thought about using 5-gallon plastic buckets and
> using the cart to transport the buckets to the various
> holes & then emptying out the buckets by hand, after I
> got them to the hole locations.
>
> Around here, the cement truck drivers' time is at a pre-
> mium and I don't know how much time I would be allowed
> for the 3 cubic yards of concrete. I'm just looking for the
> easiest way to get this done and not waste too much of
> the driver's time.
>
> Any comments or suggestions on this would be apprecia-
> ted. Thank you very much.
>
> 73 de Brad, N9EN (ex-KA9LTR)
> at Radio Free Roscoe (IL)
>
>
>
> List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers, safety
> equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
http://www.championradio.com
>
> - -----
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 20:22:45 -0600
> From: Jackson<k9rz@radiks.net>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] My new EarthLink email address
>
> Hi. I wanted to let you know that I've switched to EarthLink for my
Internet access, and I now have a new email address.
>
> So please send all email to my new EarthLink email address:
>
> k9rz@radiks.net
>
> I don't want to miss any of your messages, so please take a moment to
write down my new address and add it to your email address book.
>
> Thanks!
> William
>
> P.S. My old email address was (none)
>
>
> ********************************
> EarthLink - It's your Internet
> http://www.earthlink.net/
>
> ********************************
>
>
>
> List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers, safety
> equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
http://www.championradio.com
>
> - -----
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 21:52:10 -0500
> From: "J. Leon Pringle, Jr and Audrey S. Pringle" <w5na@megagate.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Pouring concrete
>
> Brad:
>
> Much easier to fill in the ruts that may result.
>
> At best, you will be able to haul about 2.0 cubic feet of concrete in
> a contractors wheelbarrow. Since there's 27 cubic feet in one cubic
> yard, you can do the arithmetic. That is too much work just thinking
> about it.
>
> I would have the concrete truck get as close as possible to each hole
> and in the long run, I would expect you would have less follow-up work
> correcting the yard. This would also preclude the concrete truck from
> charging demurrage because of wasted time on drivers part. The
> concrete will be of the same moisture consistency in each hole because
> of the single pour and you can take your time fixing the ruts where
> you could not in unloading and hauling the concrete in wheelbarrow.
>
> 73,
> Leon Pringle W5 North America
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "N9EN@VOYAGER.NET" <n9en@voyager.net>
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2001 2:04 PM
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Pouring concrete
>
>
> > This summer, I am going to finish the installation of some
> > heavy-duty guy anchors for my two "short" Rohn 25G
> > towers (62' & 68'). Last summer, I dug 6 holes (by hand)
> > that were 3' square by 4' deep. I ran out of time before
> > the snow started to fall and didn't get the ground slotted
> > to allow the anchor rods to come out of the ground at the
> > proper angle, nor did I get the re-bar assemblies made up
> > and installed. I hope to have all of that done in the next
> > few weeks, weather permitting.
> >
> > I'm going to have 1/2 cubic yard of concrete in each hole,
> > for a total of 3 cubic yards of concrete. I don't want a
> > cement truck driving all over my lawn, creating deep ruts
> > from the weight of it and was trying to come up with some
> > practical alternatives.
> >
> > A friend of mine has a heavy-duty contractors' wheelbarrow
> > that he has offered to let me borrow. But I have no idea of
> > how many "trips" it would take to wheel all that concrete.
> > My driveway is 100' long and if the truck were to remain
> > parked in the road at the end of the driveway, that would
> > be a lot of trips, I'm guessing.
> >
> > I've thought about employing the use of an "Agri-Fab"
> > utility cart that I can pull behind my garden tractor. The
> > specifications for the cart say that it has a capacity of
> > 1,200 lbs. (it has a 10 cu. ft. capacity). The specs also
> > say that a cubic foot of dirt weighs approximately 150
> > pounds and I've loaded that cart with dirt until it would
> > hold no more dirt.
> >
> > I thought about the possibility of filling the cart 1/2 way
> > with concrete & hauling it to the holes in that manner. I
> > made a heavier-duty "tailgate" for it, using 14 gauge
> > steel, that simply lifts up out of the channels that it is
> > mounted in. But I was wondering how difficult it would
> > be to lift up with the cart partially filled with concrete.
> >
> > I also thought about using 5-gallon plastic buckets and
> > using the cart to transport the buckets to the various
> > holes & then emptying out the buckets by hand, after I
> > got them to the hole locations.
> >
> > Around here, the cement truck drivers' time is at a pre-
> > mium and I don't know how much time I would be allowed
> > for the 3 cubic yards of concrete. I'm just looking for the
> > easiest way to get this done and not waste too much of
> > the driver's time.
> >
> > Any comments or suggestions on this would be apprecia-
> > ted. Thank you very much.
> >
> > 73 de Brad, N9EN (ex-KA9LTR)
> > at Radio Free Roscoe (IL)
> >
> >
> >
> > List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers,
> safety
> > equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
> http://www.championradio.com
> >
> > -----
> > FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> > Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> > Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> > Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 22:05:41 -0500
> From: k9huh@icss.net (Ted & Joyce Wilhelm)
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Pouring concrete
>
> Hi Brad,
> Just a couple thoughts on your concrete problems....Have you considered
> laying down several sheets of 3/4 inch plywood under the tires of the
> mixer as he backs up to even the load on your lawn....Just need several
> and keep moving them....Or how about renting a smalL front end loader to
> move it with, had this done in an oversiaze garage I just had built...or
> rent a mixer and mix on the spot.....I recently had the base for my
> tower poured after moving to a new QTH and I just let them drive on the
> grass....yes it did rut it some but we had been having rain for several
> days before and more was on the way plus the hole kept filling with
> water so I was at a point of no return....supprisingly the ruts really
> weren't that bad and I filled them up with some of the left over dirt
> and threw some seed on....hopefully you could do this in some dry
> time...sure is a lot easier moving some dirt around with your lawn
> tractor and cart than trying to move cement...dirt is light compared to
> concrete...A 5 gallon bucket of concrete gets pretty darn heavy to lift
> and any amount worth carrying in that little cart wouldn't be worth the
> effort in my opoion...Don't know if you are aware of weight of fresh
> concrete but you are looking at about 3900 lbs. per cubic yard......yep
> the stuff sure is heavy...Any way there's some of my thoughts on the
> subject take em for what they are worth...good luck and best of 73's
> Ted K9HUH
>
> ------------------------------
>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 23:35:11 -0400
> From: "va3uz@rac.ca" <ut4uz@idirect.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Pouring concrete
>
> Hi, TTers
> Did somebody try to prepare the concrete (i.e. mix of cement, sand and
> water)?
> Is it worth to do it by yourself?
> Thanks.
> va3uz = yuri
> (ready to put up Trylon Titan T-300 56').
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Tower Talk Digest V4 #142
> ********************************
>
>
> --
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-digest-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk-digest@contesting.com
>
List Sponsor: ChampionRadio.com - Trylon self-supporting towers,
safety equipment, rigging gear, LOOS tension guages & more!
http://www.championradio.com
-----
FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
|