>
> At 11:30 PM 1/17/01 +0000, t colbert wrote:
> >
> >I've had the screw-on pipe caps come off when driving ground rods. The
> >threads
> >
> >cut into the pipe weaken it such that the metal gives way.
> >
> >
> >Rod drivers can be rented, or if you are frugal like me, weld a strap
> >over the
> >
> >cap and on to the body of the driver.
>
> Or borrow one from a local farmer. For that matter, they only cost ~$15
> for a real one.
>
I've kept as quiet as I can stand as long as I can stand.
Year's ago, I drove one ground rod in with a hammer. I swore never again.
The next ground rod went in with a homebrew piledriver: a gallon paint can
filled with concrete into which a pipe with a T-fitting was placed about
halfway down. After it set, it was an easy matter to simply start the
ground rod the first few inches into the ground, then, on a step ladder,
place the 'piledriver' on the rod and lift and let drop. Worked like a
charm. It was actually kind of fun.
I used it for three ground rods with tremedous success and never a crack or
damage to the 'piledriver'.
Then, my old buddy, Madison, W5MJ, announced his 'miracle' ground rod
placement method: dig a small hole (3-4" deep, ~1" dia.), pour in some
water, and gently work the ground rod down into the ground, replenishing
with water from time to time. Done right, it takes less than a gallon of
water and less than 30 minutes to plant the ground rod.
Of course, this is all done in Texas Coastal Prairie soil conditions: gumbo
(clay, to all of you not lucky enough to be from Texas).
73,
dale, kg5u
--
FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
|