I installed my HDBX-48 twice with the tilt over base-- long one inch bolts
that go down into the concrete, but the base stubs are the same principal.
build a two by four frame (also called a form for the concrete)
around the top outer edge of the hole,
level it
or allow for a drainage to one side, but either way make the top flat
surfaces of your 2X4 frame the top grade of your concrete pad. Then screw
--using wood screws-- more two by fours across the frame, lined up with
the proper placement for the base stubs. Use one 2X4 for each stub and
your whole assemblege will look, from the top view, like a picture frame
(the form around the outside edges) with three stripes through it (like a
football field with one sideline, and the two inner lines that run from
goal line to goal line --not the "hash marks"). Then BOLT the stubs to
the crossing 2X4s , using two bolts per stub. Pour concrete and be sure
the stubs are not moved during the pour. For extra safety, attach two
2X4s across the three-- just like the hash marks (yardage markers) that
run across the football field-- for more bracing.
Alternately, make the frame/form as stated above, and make up, but do not
install, the crossing 2X4s and attached stubs.
Pour hole full. Then push the stubs down into the wet crete, lining them
up with pre-marked marks on your frame/form. Screw the crossing pieces to
the frame/form.
In either case, re-measure the whole thing after the pour has settled and
has been smoothed on top. Then walk away and wait.
The use of screws and bolts above will make removal of the wood from the
concrete and metal stubs much easier than using nails.
If you mistakenly install one or more of the tower sections onto the base
stubs, the weight of the sections will submerge the lower part of the
tower --along with the stubs-- down into the wet concrete. You could
counteract that factor by bracing with a maze of wooden struts and
crossing members, but lacking proper advance planning, the whole will sink
and so will your heart (and pocketbook).
de K4VUD
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