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[TowerTalk] Splicing hardline and/or flexible cables

To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Splicing hardline and/or flexible cables
From: n4kg@juno.com (T. A. Russell)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 05:25:45 -0600
On Tue, 02 Sep 1997 20:22:12 EDT k1vr@juno.com (Fred Hopengarten) writes:
>
>On Tue, 2 Sep 1997 16:57:37 -0400 (EDT) SFrakes@aol.com writes:
>>Sept. 2, 1997
>>
>>Is there anything wrong with using two pieces of 7/8" Heliax, that 
>has been spliced together? 
>
>Scott:
>
>       You neglect to tell us about the splice, and the frequencies 
>of use.  Let's assume that it is a connectorized splice.  You'll never 
>see it (electronically), or care about it, at frequencioes below 30 
>MHz.  At frequencies under 7 MHz, you could use  a VE1ZZ splice and 
>still not notice it.

  VE1ZZ brings the two pieces of hardline vertical 
>and ties the shields together with a stainless steel hose clamp.  The 
>two center conductors are soldered with a small copper jumper.  The 
>coax is weather-protected by putting them in an inverted two liter 
>soda bottle.  

I used this technique on my first hardline run at the "new" QTH 17 years
ago.  It has outlasted almost all of my homebrew hardline connectors.
That told me something!  I now use that technique for all my hardline to
RG-213 or RG-59 cables (with ground lugs soldered to the braid).  I use
small plastic bottles wrapped with Scotch 33 to prevent uV deterioration
and to hold the bottle in place.  This  works on all HF bands.

I have made home brew hardline splices using a small copper tube 
soldered over the center conductors for approximately 1/2 inch, then
wrapped with scotch 33, and an 8 inch sleeve of the next size aluminum
tubing slotted at both ends, wrapped with Scotch 33, and hose clamped.
I have two such splices which continue to function several years after
repairing lawnmower induced damage.

de  Tom  N4KG




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