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[TowerTalk] The Other End of the Coax Recap

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Subject: [TowerTalk] The Other End of the Coax Recap
From: w5ww@hotmail.com (Brent Childers)
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 07:21:57 PDT
Well it's been about 2 weeks since the last reply to my question about how to 
weatherproof the terminal connections of a Cushcraft 2 element 40 M driven 
element.  Here are the replies, thanks to everyone who took the time to send a 
reply.

73 de w5ww

Original Question:
Now that the coax connector subject has been addressed, I have a question about 
the other end of the coax.  On the Cushcraft 40-2CD antenna, it's a split 
driven 
element fed directly by coax. When you put ring connectors on the center 
conductor and shield of coax cable, what is the proper way to seal the coax?  
I'm curious to see what people do to keep things waterproof.

--------------------------
     You take care of this problem by using a high quality bead balun like W2AU 
or such.  This also isolates the coax from the antenna.  A good thing.

     73

     Bill
--------------------------
Hi Brent: I'm sure you will get the usual amount of methods, but - as a 
professional, I follow the recommendations of the mfg's. 
     That is:
       After the connection is completed, wrap with Vapor Wrap, or 
"Monkey-shit" 
as it is called in the trade. Then, a single total cover wrap of Scotch 88 tape.

Vapor Wrap is a putty-like material that comes in either individual pieces for 
a 
single connector, or in a 3"X50' roll. This is wrapped around the connector and 
worked in with the hands to remove any air
 bubbles. Then wrapped with '88' tape, it becomes totally immune from weather 
and corrosion. 

Amateur connectors usually are replaced periodically, due to the evolving of 
amateur antennas, so the long term necessity of sealing is questionable. But, 
connectors on commercial antennas must last
many years, and the above method assures trouble free service for the life of 
the transline and antenna.
     73  de KL7HF
--------------------------
The DX Engineering baluns are "pigtailed" inside a length of 1.5" PVC with caps 
on both ends.
A hole is drilled through one of the caps and and SO-239 attached to it.  
Inside 
the tube is a bead balun, that go to spades, that attach to small screws (from 
the inside out).  A jumper from each side of the driven element can be 
connected 
to the balun with wire with spades on both ends.  Hope you get this.  It's much 
easier to do than explain HI!

     73...Scott K8DX 
--------------------------
i put a balun there. the balun is feed with a pl-259 and the connection from 
the 
balun to the beam is just pieces of wire with ring connectors on the ends. 
makes 
things simple. guc luck.   henry  kb7rta  henry@rio.com
--------------------------
SIMPLE, USE A REAL BAULN AT FEEDPOINT INSTEAD OF THE COAX LOOP MONSTROSITY.  
SEAL THE COAX AT THE BAULN FEEDPOINT WITH TAPE AND COAX SEAL.

     73 DE K3KO
--------------------------
K1VR:  I sealed with cable TV RTV (no acidic smell) and tape.
--------------------------
skotch brand black tape - followed by a coating of skotchkote....then another 
light layer of tape to hide the skotchkote from uv

     ar

     k4oj
--------------------------
TOWER TECH has the aforementioned materials including the "monkey stuff"; it's 
$3.00 per foot (good for 3 coax joints).

     73,  Steve  K7LXC



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