On 07/24/2012 08:14 PM, KAZeringue wrote:
> @N1BUG.....
>
> The WD1A is fairly tough, ~200lbs break strength. Tie it to the
> supports/trees/insulators/whatevah with a single strand of 20-25lb test
> monofiliment fishing line. Tree falls on WD1A, maybe you then need only
> replace monofiliment fishing line supports to re hang the wire instead
> of splicing/weatherproofing.
Thanks W4KAZ and everyone else who has offered suggestions.
I've been using a similar method, using #18 soft copper wire to
attach the Beverage end insulator to the support. It is attaching
the Beverage wires to the transformer box that is the bigger
problem. There are two basic approaches:
1. Solidly attach the Beverage wires to the box, then attach the box
to the support with a breakable line of some sort. This has the
disadvantage of leaving the coax, ground wire, box, and the Beverage
wire subject to strain and possible damage when something falls on
the Beverage. Leaving extra length in the coax and ground wire is
no guarantee, as I've seen boxes snag up on/in the next tree after
breaking loose from the end support.
2. Solidly attach the Beverage box to the support, then attach the
Beverage to the support *and to the box* with something that breaks
or disconnects when the Beverage is under abnormal strain. I've been
using the #18 copper wire to attach the Beverage to the support, and
1/4" blade connectors to attach the Beverage wires to the box. The
Beverage falls without breaking, while the box, coax, and ground
wire stay with the end support (tree in my case). This has worked
very well, but the blade connectors get black and ugly after a year
or so out in the weather. Whether this causes any real problem has
yet to be determined.
The two suggestions I'm looking at are:
A. Coat the blade connectors with automotive silicone grease.
B. Use banana plugs on the end of the Beverage wires with jacks in
the boxes.
My supports along the run (everything that isn't an end support)
consist of 2x2x4" pieces of pressure treated wood, oriented
vertically and nailed to the side of the support tree. I drill loose
fitting holes about 3/4" from the top and bottom for the nails. I
use galvanized nails longer than needed, driving them into the tree
far enough to hold firmly but leaving the wood block an inch or two
away from the tree. This allows the tree room to grow several years
before it starts to surround the "insulator". The WD1A wire passes
through a 1/4" hole in the center of the wood block. Obviously these
support blocks aren't really insulators but as far as I can tell
they cause no problems. The slippery wire slides through the block
easily when something falls on a Beverage. Of course, the same basic
technique could be used with some material that actually is an
insulator. ;-)
73,
Paul N1BUG
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UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
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