On 6/26/2013 7:39 AM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:
Basic station set-up:
The Omni VII output is connected direct to the amp input. Also two QSK
cables, RCA to RCA, are connected between the amp and transceiver.
Er ... point taken, but you left out my
home brew two-transceiver A/B switch which
switches the mic, headphones, speakers, PTT,
code key, and amp key lines between the to main
transceivers. I am so darned pleased with it
(at least I am now that I fixed the wiring error
on the mic line...oops!)
But I get your drift.
output of the amp goes to the input of a Diawa CN-801HP.
OK. I recently read your review of that
product on eHam.net and was curious if you still
felt the same about it. Apparently you do.
Power for the
CN-801HP is obtained via a separate cable connected to the +12V on the
Omni VII.
Hmmm... I will have to find or make a splitter
cable, and check the amperage, etc., as I use
the .5 amp accessory power output on the rear
panel to power a little fan I built to cool the
heat sink fins. This saved me $40 on cost of
buying the official TT fan accessory - in good
old cheap ham tradition...
I have one large linear power supply just for
the transceivers and a separate same size linear
supply just for accessories. Like money, sex,
and good bourbon... one can never have too much
power in the shack.
The output of the CN-801HP goes to the input of the 238 tuner
using a choke balun, Wireman #8232, between the output of the Diawa and
the input to the tuner.
Hmmm.... I did not see this one coming...
I already have a choke on the patch cable running
from the output of the tuner to the external
remote coax switch. Is this not the best
place for it - should I move it between the
amp/meter and the tuner? Or can it stay where
it is "close enough."
I made my choke from a series of formula 31 clamp
on ferrite beads, secured with shrink tubing,
after reading articles by our friend Jim B, K9YC,
and W8JI - and after corresponding with balun
enthusiast, Rick, DJ0IP last year. I patterned
mine after the ones sold by Palomar Engineers and
DX-Engineering, among others.
You think it would be better ahead of, instead
of after the tuner?
All other coax jumpers are RG-8X.
My patch cables are all RG-213 (although one
or two might be LMR-400 UF.) I figure these
are equivalent to RG-8. N'est ce pas?
THANKS FOR THE RECOMMENDATIONS.
--------------------------K8JHR ----------------
73
Bob, K4TAX
----- Original Message ----- From: "Richards" <jrichards@k8jhr.com>
To: <rmcgraw@blomand.net>; "Discussion of Ten-Tec Equipment"
<tentec@contesting.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: [TenTec] Amplifier Question
THANK YOU ALL for the quick and helpful answers
about tuning my amp. The best bit is I am doing
the right thing.
I have a matchbox/tuner with a fairly reliable SWR/WATT meter
beyond the amp, and I watch that power meter, along with the PEAL
Power meter on the amp, for power indication, while watching the Ib
Grid Meter on on the left side of the amp.
I sometimes get the notion to install a separate watt meter (I built
the Ten Tec 1225 SWR/WATT meter a couple of months back) but I would
prefer to keep things simple - I figure every patch cable, connector,
and gadget in line is a power and impedance "speed bump" and would
prefer to keep it simple. But the user manual was a tad skimpy on
explaining how and when to use those four little meter settings.
Now supposing I changed my mind and DID want a power meter in line...
are there any suggestions on what to use? I have a Daiwa 101L and the
TT 1225 kit, but maybe there is a better one.
So... is it worth it, and why? What would it tell me that I cannot
already determine from the amp and tuner meters? I see so many of
them in other guys' stations, I suppose there must be more to it than
the thrill of seeing the needle move or the LEDs light up! ;-)
THANKS, AGAIN.
------------------ K8JHR -------------------
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