I have one word for you: electrolysis.
Wes N7WS
On Sunday, November 15, 2020, 12:06:52 PM MST, K9MA <k9ma@sdellington.us>
wrote:
It is a “Direct Vent” type, with a blower and electrical ignition.
Of course, I verified that the tank was connected to the copper plumbing and
electrical system ground. I could connect the green wire without going through
the CM choke, though it would be redundant. Including that wire in the choke
would short it out, making it ineffective on the hot and neutral wires. I can
see how this could be a problem with other equipment which has a direct ground
connection in addition to the green wire. In such cases, if there’s RFI on the
green wire, it probably should have a separate choke. Thankfully, I’ve never
had to deal with that.
73,
Scott K9MA
----------
Scott Ellington
--- via iPad
> On Nov 15, 2020, at 10:44 AM, Michael Germino <ad6aa@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> Scott,
> Why would your "gas water heater" be connected to the house power?
> You made me recheck mine. It appears to have a battery in the controller.
>
> Mike73, AD6AA
>
> On Friday, November 13, 2020, 5:48:53 PM MST, K9MA <k9ma@sdellington.us>
>wrote:
>
> While I generally agree that the green (ground) wire should go through the CM
> choke, here’s an exception: My gas water heater was shutting down whenever I
> was on 160. It has a grounding cord, but the ground is totally redundant
> because the tank is tied into the copper plumbing. (That would not be the
> case with non-metallic plumbing.) I made a choke with a two-wire extension
> cord, and left the green wire open. No more cold showers.
>
> 73,
> Scott K9MA
>
> ----------
>
>
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