Who said anything about a D550 for a bandswitch repair, that is serious
overkill, mine is 240/335W and is used for serious work like removing
components soldered to a big old steel chassis. Ive also hauled it up towers
in the winter (-;
The Weller 8200 at 100/140W with a good tip and tight nuts works fine. It is
some of the other brands that dont provide the same heat/watts. Ive picked
up a few extras of these on ham forums for $12-20 in good shape....beats
always looking for one!
Carl
KM1H
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic K2VCO" <k2vco.vic@gmail.com>
To: <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Amps] Ameritron band switch repair
I bought a 100 watt Weller W100P temperature-controlled iron (not a gun)
from a company that sells stuff to stained glass hobbyists. I have never
been sorry. The thermal mass of the large tip makes soldering things like
tank coil tubing and straps easy. It also does a good job on PL259's.
It is much better for almost everything than a Weller D550 200/260 watt
allegedly 'professional' gun. I don't think the guns are made with the
quality that they once were (what is?).
On 2/3/2013 5:28 PM, Carl wrote:
----- Original Message ----- From: "George" <at6c@bellsouth.net>
To: <Amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 5:07 PM
Subject: [Amps] Ameritron band switch repair
A friend bought a used AL 1500 (from about 1999) and when we opened it
up to install the transformer we noticed that one of the straps from the
coil to the band switch was not connected to the band switch. The
solder that was there was globed up and did not flow out properly. I
thought it would be an easy repair to just re-heat the joint and flow
the solder. Turned out that the solder would not flow out with the heat
from a 100w gun. The excess solder would not melt into the existing
solder on the band switch or on the strap. I tried adding a little more
rosin core solder but still the same problem, no solder flow. Did
Ameritron use something besides 60/40 rosin core solder on the band
switch? Looks like I will have to remove all the solder down to bare
metal and clean the lug on the switch in order to re-solder this
connection. The strap shouldn't be problem to clean but the lug on the
band switch is very thin and I hate to work on it too much with a file.
Get a real gun, at least 200W and dont Mickey Mouse around with a file.
There is a green wire coming out of the input circuit enclosure and it
looks like it was solder to a lug near the band switch but is now just
hanging there. Was this there to ground out the 10M input circuit to
comply with FCC rules?
Yes.
Carl
KM1H
73,
George
W2GS
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Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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