An as already mentioned always running dark is a good way to destroy the
tube from outgassing. The anode is coated with zirconium and is the getter
and it has to be red to activate.
Carl
KM1H
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVE WHITE" <mausoptik@btinternet.com>
To: "Al Kozakiewicz" <akozak@hourglass.com>; <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2011 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Amps] 4-1000A Pi-Output-Load-Control & RTTY
>I agree entirely. Use it as it was designed.
>
> My car is designed to do 250km/h on the autobahn so I feel the need to
> regularly do that kind of thing when I'm working over in DL. It does the
> car the world of good. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it....:-)
>
> With the 4-1000A just keep the seals at the right temperature using the
> right blower, the right socket, the right chimney and the right
> heat-dissipating plate cap and you can thrash the nuts off them. Keep the
> blowers running for 5 minutes after you turn the amp off. The 4-1000A
> really is a wonderfully rugged piece of kit.
>
> Dave G0OIL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Al Kozakiewicz" <akozak@hourglass.com>
> To: <amps@contesting.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 9:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [Amps] 4-1000A Pi-Output-Load-Control & RTTY
>
>
>> If running a tube (or any component) within its design rating is
>> emotionally distressing, that's a psychological problem, not technical!
>>
>> Al
>> AB2ZY
>>
>> ________________________________________
>> From: amps-bounces@contesting.com [amps-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf
>> Of Sam Carpenter [sam@owenscommunication.com]
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 3:45 PM
>> To: 'Bill Fuqua'; 'w3hvq'; amps@contesting.com
>> Subject: Re: [Amps] 4-1000A Pi-Output-Load-Control & RTTY
>>
>> Isn't that nice red comforting if you want to keep the tube "gettered"
>> and
>> gas out of it? I think the gettering agent is on the outside of the plate
>> and can only pick up some gases when glowing. There are guys out there
>> with
>> 35 yr old tubes that have always run them glowing but still within the
>> ratings. I do think we can disregard the 1000 w dissipation rating on
>> this
>> tube however.
>>
>> Sam, N9FUT
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: amps-bounces@contesting.com [mailto:amps-bounces@contesting.com] On
>> Behalf Of Bill Fuqua
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 3:04 PM
>> To: w3hvq; amps@contesting.com
>> Subject: Re: [Amps] 4-1000A Pi-Output-Load-Control & RTTY
>>
>> On HF a 4-1000A should run a good 1.5kW , even more, continuously.
>> Red glowing plate is normal. In fact when in idle with 5500 V on plate
>> in
>> GG they glow
>> brighter than when driven to 1.5kW output. Unless there is some reason
>> why
>> the efficiency is low, they should operate 24/7 with a full gallon
>> output.
>> 73
>> Bill wa4lav
>>
>>
>> At 11:58 AM 5/25/2011 -0400, w3hvq wrote:
>>> Gents/Ladies,
>>> Just a suggestion if running a 1-1000A and the bright red plate
>>> bothers you as it does me. I know, many think that this tube should
>>> always run with a plate red because its built for it. All I know is
>>> that
>>> my HB amp's tube is still in perfect condition after 15 years of mostly
>>> "black-plate use" here at station W8OHT.
>>> My suggestion is based on my happy experience in the recent Volta
>>> RTTY contest. For good results in this DX contest, as is in most,
>>> almost
>>> full RF output is required from the amplifier when using a 4-1000A
>>> linear
>>> into a poor-man's inverted ell on 40 meters at night, for example. My
>>> tube's biasing is fixed at about 10 vdc as I recall.
>>> When my homebrewed Pi loading control (ex-HRO-receiver variable with
>>> all sections-in-parallel) was set the same for RTTY as for SSB or CW, my
>>> tube's plate went from black to full red (not yellow) by the time my
>>> longest contest exchange macro had completed its canned message: (his
>>> call 599 Q# Q# - 05 05 his-call). Since I couldn't allow my favorite
>>> pet
>>> tube to undergo such treatment, I reduced the drive from the K-3 to
>>> about
>>> 11 watts. A cheap old RF watt meter on the antenna line indicated about
>>> 300 watts to the antenna (with no appreciable reflected power). Due to
>>> noisey nitetime conditions on 40m this output signal was enough to get
>>> DX, but only with frequent repeats.
>>> So I made an effort to see if I could lighten the loading control to
>>> result in more RF voltage on the plate of the subject tube and thereby
>>> get the same output with less DC plate current. The HRO loading control
>>> had been indicating a reading of 200, but now I could put amplifier in
>>> tune and use more drive power (45 watts), yet experienced no RF voltage
>>> break downs (frying sounds) in the amplifier's output circuit (the HRO
>>> loading dial now indicated 25 (a much higher output pi loading capacity,
>>> i.e., lighter loading). Now turning the tuning capacitor always yielded
>>> a much easier-to-adjust dip and there was only slight-redness in the
>>> plate at the very end of contest transmissions. Now the output RF
>>> meter
>>> indicated 850 watts output to the antenna and the longest sending macro
>>> for the contest resulted in plate redness only during the final second
>>> of
>>> these hundred-percent-duty-cycle transmissions. So "Mission
>>> accomplished". No more contest messages had to be repeated.
>>>FYI,
>>>John, W8OHT
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>Amps mailing list
>>>Amps@contesting.com
>>>http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps
>>
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>
>
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