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[Amps] 572B AMP PLANS

To: <amps@contesting.com>
Subject: [Amps] 572B AMP PLANS
From: "Jim Thomson" <jim.thom@telus.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2010 23:29:58 -0800
List-post: <amps@contesting.com">mailto:amps@contesting.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2010 22:06:08 -0600
From: "Jeff Blaine" <keepwalking188@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Amps] 572B AMP PLANS
To: "Hsu" <hsu4qro@gmail.com>, <amps@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <0FB28AAD039F4D3B93D503C58EB78222@8710w>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hsu,

The 813 looks nice.  But I am very impressed with the GI7B.  I really work that 
tube hard - both in the RTTY contesting and on the 
bench (one time, I ran the pair for 20 minutes key down at rated power) for 
simple endurance test on the amp.  Finally had to stop 
out of worry the DL was going to explode.  hi hi.

If I am needing to use glass, I think I prefer the 3500Z if you have high 
enough plate voltage available.  I'm not sure what the 
3-500z looks like at 2500V.

Good luck!

73, Jeff AC?C
www.ac0c.com

##  I have  4 x Drake L4B's.... and the no load is 2650 vdc on RX... and with 
800ma cxr... the B+ drops down to 2490 vd.   Since
I added a 50 ohm-50W WW glitch R in series with the B+,  I lose another 40 vdc  
across the glitch R.   The pair  of 3-500Z's  just
last  a Looong time.   IMD is superb. 

##  IF you hb a linear, and are doing it to.... 'save money', I usually find 
the savings are not there.  I will usually end up with vac input
and output relay's.. and vac relay for bias, vac caps,  and nice metal work.   
I end up with a  better overall product that does what I want,
and am happy with it.  IMO, after building everything  from pair's  of 813's  
to  4 x 572B's... to  4 x 811A's  to  single and dual 4-1000's, single  3-500Z's
etc, my conclusion after doing this since 1972 is that it's just as easy to 
build a big amp as a small one. 

##  building a 4 x 572B linear these days is plane nuts.  Add up the cost of 
[a]  4 x tubes  [b] 4 x sockets [c] 4 x anode connector's,  [d] 4 x suppressors,
etc,  and you may as well use  a  single or dual GS35B...or a single YC-156.    
A YC-156  goes for $200-$300.... and No socket required, and NO suppressor 
required.
Just whack a hole in the chassis..and bolt it it.   Easy to drive [17w = 1.5 
kw.... 150w=7.5 kw    200w = 10 kw... it makes for a versatile tube. Linearity 
is superb,
and it laughs at 100% duty cycle modes. 

##  a  few fellow's here in town  back in the mid 70's  had 30L1 amps.   They 
would ALL  burn holes right through the  811A anodes.   Several more had new 
SB-200's.
The fellow's  with the SB-200's  would be buying 572b's  every 2 x years.    In 
the long term.... you save nothing  using these 'toy tubes' . And none of em 
were used on   
RTTY/FM or any 100% duty cycle data node..... they just won't last at all.  

##  The bandswitch's and tank circuits in most of these amps are a poor joke as 
is.  Beware, the current ratings  for multi-tech switch's  are for 60hz..and 
NOT RF freqs,
esp the higher bands.   If you want a heavy duty bandswitch, either use a 
bigger switch, and /or  parallel 2 or more wafer's.   If you parallel mutiple 
wafers, it has to be 
done correctly.  Tank coi taps go to wafer #1..and the output of the assy  is 
on wafer #2.  That way the RF current will divide equally between the 2 x 
wafers. 
Switch  contacts  and tank coils, etc... on 29.7 mhz  will only  handle 1/4  
what they will handle on 1.8 mhz.  [29.7 /1.8= 16.5     sq rt of 16.5 = 4.1 ]   
 You can use the same
formulae  between any 2 x ham bands.  

later... Jim   VE7RF


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