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Re: [Amps] attaching a heat spreader to a heat sink

To: amps@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] attaching a heat spreader to a heat sink
From: Steve Thompson <g8gsq@eltac.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 22 May 2007 22:22:29 +0100
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
jeremy-ca wrote:
> Machine shops charge set up time as well as actual machining, it could get 
> expensive.

Round here I'd expect to get it done for about the price of 1 MRF150. My 
view is that's a good investment.

> One simple way to be sure a surface is flat is to lay a sheet of wet/dry 
> sandpaper on a flat pane of glass. Use plenty of water and a back and forth 
> motion with moderate pressure. You may need another pair of hands.

Works well - the purist cabinet makers who want precision surfaces on 
planes and chisels swear by 1" float glass. I used mirrored glass on 
laminate finish kitchen worktop. The mirroring shows if the glass 
surface is not flat.
> 
>  I use this method on old warped carburetor bowls, aluminum timing covers, 
> etc for antique Ford flathead V8's that I rebuild. It also works great on 
> rotator housings.

The only downside is the large surface area of heatsinks if there's any 
appreciable metal to remove. It took a lot of beer to get a jack plane 
finished :-)

Steve
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