Gerry,
-
Many of the "mobile folk" will parallel #8 and #10 gage
wire for increased capacity. That would be two leads
for each side of the supple.
-
Large (and for that matter) power feeds through the
fire wall deserve respect. In the two-way radio
industry, a hole is drilled, a large rubber boot
- grommet is installed and the power lead fused
very close to the battery. Many of the newer
cars already have a nice rubber boot installed
above the drivers side, be careful and secure
everything well above any brake or gas pedals.
-
I have some of the Motorola type/size fuse
leads (surplus) that I will give you free for
postage (if you need/want one). Contact me
direct off the list
-
I have one of the same TE amps in commercial
service... quite the monster.
-
cheers
skipp
nospam4me@juno.com
-
--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Gerry Hull <windev@inetmarket.com>
To: amps@contesting.com
Hey Folks,
I just purchased a TE Systems 1454 400w 2m amplifier, which I am going to
use
both mobile and in fixed-station use. My question is about DC
power wiring in my '03 Chevy Suburban. I believe I will have aprox. 12
feet
from the battery to the amp. Is #8 going to be large enough, or should
I go
with #4? Is it better to run both + and - to the battery, or find a
ground
somewhere near the amp? I notice the high-power audio amp people use
1-farad
caps near the power input of their amps... anyone used this in an amateur
amp
configuration? Seems like it would help on those current peaks.
Finally, the Suburban is the "family" car, and the amp will not be there
permanently... any suggestions on how to get the wire through the
firewall,
without ticking off the XYL?
73,
Gerry Hull, W1VE
Hull Computer Consulting
Custom Solutions for Broadcast Automation
POB C, Greenfield, NH 03047
Home Office/fax: 603-547-8327
Toll Free: 866-823-5473
email: windev@inetmarket.com
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