My personal experience is that anything under 100’ is better and more easily
served by a medium quality slingshot (Marksmen) with good quality bands and
development of proficiency with it. I prefer a 2 oz. lead fishing sinker (pack
of 10 at Walmart ~ $2.00) and 30 lb test on a 2500’ roll (~ $9.99 at Walmart)
that I unspool out about 200’ before using the slingshot and aiming for my
preferred branch/tree. I always use a faceshield and a thick leather glove on
my left hand (I pull with the right hand). You can buy a faceshield for ~ $15
at Home Depot or Lowes and a pair of thick quality cowhide gloves at Costco (3
pair for $19.99). After getting the weight over the correct branch, I attach
#18 twine and pull it through and then attach the 3/16” poly rope. It is a
fairly slow process but it works and it is reliable.
I like using fairly inexpensive components that I can easily buy and replace
whenever necessary rather than having to build something elaborate.
If I had to go more than 100’ then my present slingshot would not be enough but
there are no trees at my qth that are taller than ~100’ Nothing survives at
that height on my hilltop except for my two towers. :-)
One of the benefits of slingshots is that you can rapidly develop proficiency
and it is quiet and unobtrusive. Most reasonably healthy and reasonably
coordinated people can become proficient pretty quickly. While wearing a
faceshield and a thick glove on the hand that holds the slingshot there is
nothing to fear. Only twice in 20+ years has the sinker ever hit the
faceshield and there was no problem. And twice the sinker has hit the thick
glove but other than a brief sting there was no issue. That is four minor
events in several hundred attempts. Safer than almost any other method and
VERY cost effective and always available for use, even in windy and rainy or
snowy weather when you HAVE to get up that wire antenna that broke on the
morning of the contest!
73
Bob KQ2M
From: Wes Attaway (N5WA)
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2018 8:47 PM
To: 'Kelly Taylor'
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com ; jim@audiosystemsgroup.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Ropes in trees
I would not recommend tying the pull rope to the monofilament line. Using
string as an intermediate step works a lot better if you have to go through
some Pine tree branches with lots of twigs and needles. I have never had a
problem using string (25# strength). This is an extra step but it rarely
fails.
However, I am sure everyone who does this has their own favorite way of
doing it.
Shooting over a high limb is one thing. Getting the ball to drop anywhere
close to the area you want it to be in is another matter entirely. Using
too much air pressure with a tennis ball launcher is normally a recipe for
frustration and repeated shots.
Still, using a launcher is a lot cheaper than a climber.
-------------------
Wes Attaway (N5WA)
(318) 393-3289 - Shreveport, LA
Computer/Cellphone Forensics
AttawayForensics.com
-------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2018 7:05 PM
To: wesattaway
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com; jim@audiosystemsgroup.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Ropes in trees
I've had some success on shorter (40-50ft) trees using a slingshot, with a
high-density weight (heavy but not huge). Of course, it helps I can shoot in
such a way as to not care where it lands.
If your trees are fairly dense, a projectile such as a tennis ball may prove
problematic: I've had tennis balls get caught in the foliage and not be
heavy enough (and too large) to fall through. The tennis ball also seems to
absorb enough of the slingshot's kinetic energy, leaving less energy for
moving the ball.
Seeing the projectile can also be a problem, so I've tied coloured tape to
the projectile (usually a large nut).
Be wary of how you fasten your pull rope to the monofilament: a large knot
can get caught in the branches and render the effort futile. I've had
success tying two overhand knots (one on each) and then taping over the knot
to hold the knots and provide a smooth transition. Going slowly once the
knot reaches the branch helps.
A tree climber like Jim recommends or a buddy with a cherry picker would be
ideal.
73, kelly, ve4xt
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 26, 2018, at 18:39, wesattaway <wesattaway@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> Good advice from Jim. I use a tennis ball launcher, with good results
shooting into tall Pines. It takes some practice to be able to gauge the
correct air pressure to use for certain shots.
>
>
> -----------------------------------Wes Attaway (N5WA)(318) 393-3289 -
Shreveport, LAComputer/Cellphone ForensicsAttawayForensics.com
------------------------------------
> -------- Original message --------From: Jim Brown
<jim@audiosystemsgroup.com> Date: 12/26/18 6:19 PM (GMT-06:00) To:
towertalk@contesting.com Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Ropes in trees
>> On 12/26/2018 3:27 PM, Brad Anbro wrote:
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I imagine that this subject has been covered in the past but rather than
search the archives, I thought that
>> I'd just ask the group for some information.
>>
>> What is available for purchase on the market for getting ropes into
trees? I am planning on putting up
>> an inverted L wire antenna and need to get a couple of ropes installed
for supporting the antenna.
>
> What kind of trees? How tall? Three of the most useful tools are
>
> 1) the Big Shot, an industrial-strength sling shot from Sherrill Tree
> Service. You want it with the fishing reel and several small weighted
> throw bags. They're in NC.
>
> 2) the pneumatic tennis ball launcher. When I moved to a redwood forest
> in NorCal in 2006, K2RD brought his over and cleared the top of my
> tallest redwood by at least 10 ft on the first shot.
>
> http://www.antennalaunchers.com/antlaunching.html
>
> 3) Tree climbers. They're expensive, but good ones can get wires higher
> in tall trees with pulleys that allow greater tension.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
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