Hi Rob,
They're easy to work on. The outer shell has an upper and lower part
with a plate between.
The shaft and its large gear and the limit switches are above the plate
and the motor and reduction gear train are below.
The bottom of the clamp sits on a thrust bearing in the top half of the
shell that may need some work to free up if that's what's rusty.
You need to be careful disassembling things so you can reassemble them
correctly. There aren't any loose ball bearings as far as I remember.
On mine, the gear box and motor were filthy, probably the dirtiest,
greasiest job I have ever done and I've done a few cars and tractors.
I have a few pictures I can send you and some tips if you are interested
but at the moment I need to leave for an appointment so no time to write
it all out.
73, Les W2LK
On 7/6/2015 1:26 AM, Rob Santello wrote:
Hi Group,
I just acquired a very used M2 Orion 2800 rotor that has had a tough
life turning a full size MonstIR SteppIR for the past 9 years. It was
working when removed but had some rust on it and the 1/4" bolt that
holds the plate onto the shaft was broke with the threaded part
remaining in the shaft. It can hopefully be removed with an easyout
extractor. I don't think that will hurt the rotor but mostly wonder
how difficult it is to open it up for an inspection to check its
overall condition. There are plenty of documented rebuilds of Hy-Gain
rotors on the web but I can't find any example showing someone
rebuilding one of these. I know water getting into the 2800 has been a
problem and I'm concerned with the visible rust on the top that there
might be more internally. So how difficult is it to open one of these
up to take a look inside. Is there a specific procedure or ideal
sequence of steps that should be observed when opening one and
appreciate any pointers as to what I need to check once inside?
And while I'm here, does anyone have a used Green Heron RT-21
controller they would consider selling?
Thanks,
Rob
K6DQ
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