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[TowerTalk] Galv Paint Thread [LONG]

To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Galv Paint Thread [LONG]
From: spelunk.sueno@mci2000.com (spelunk.sueno)
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 22:11:40 -0400
ALL:

     Don't laugh about invisible paint!  The April, 1966 (maybe '65) issue
of QST ran an article about such material.  The pigment absorbed visible
spectrum and reflected infrared; that way birds wouldn't fly into it
(they're sensitive to IR, according to April QST.)  Towers would become
invisible and the human eye would fill in the background; proof included in
article.

     How do I see how far into the paint the brush is dipped?  April QST
says to float a circular piece of cork with a rectangular slot in the center
on top of the paint in the can.  You can see the brush dip below the cork
level.  Pretty slick!

     Loads of interesting articles in QSTs from April throughout the years.
Learn from 'em!


-Gene Smar  AD3F
-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Hopengarten <k1vr@juno.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com <towertalk@contesting.com>
Cc: neader@centuryinter.net <neader@centuryinter.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 12:44 PM
Subject: [TowerTalk] Galv Paint Thread [LONG]


>
>From:
>Fred Hopengarten  K1VR               781/259-0088
>Six Willarch Road
>Lincoln, MA 01773-5105
>permanent e-mail address:  fhopengarten@mba1972.hbs.edu
>From: Scott Bullock <twoway@scoden.ma.ultranet.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Followup on painting used tower
>
>For those that were interested in the thread on cleaning/painting
>a used tower with surface rust on it:  I decided to go the
>inexpensive way-local paint store got me a gallon of Rustoleum
>rust reformer-$47.00, not cheap but will do the job. It's the
>same stuff as in the little bottles. Will probably have alot left
>over, but will have a lifetime supply :-)
>
>Going to follow this up with brushed on paint-should last a few
>years as many had said. Anybody got any electron/invisible paint?
>
>BTW, for any New England hams interested, there is a local shop
>near Boston that can pickle and galvanize up to 70' lengths-might
>be nice for those home brew projects. They are: Duncan
>Galvanizing 617-389-8440  They were reasonable for the entire
>tower at $500.00, but a little more than I wanted to spend.
>
>Scott KA1CLX
>=====
>On Tue, 26 Aug 1997, Jeffrey Maass wrote:
>> My Rohn 45 is showing some signs of surface rust.
>> What is the recommended paint / treatment to extend it's useful
>> life? Preparation? Are the spray-on "cold galvanizing" of any
>> value?
>
>> Jeff Maass  (jmaass@freenet.columbus.oh.us)  Amateur Radio K8ND
>=====
>From: w5hvv@aeneas.net (Rod Fitz-Randolph)
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Painting?
>
>You bet!  I have used it on a number of items over the years.
>Cold Galvanizing made (or sold) by LPS is the one I suggest.  It
>is 95% zinc and lasts and lasts and lasts.
>
>Rod N5HV
>=====
>From: Frank Donovan <donovanf@sgate.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Painting?
>
>The American Galvanizers Association has an excellent pamphlet
>entitled "Painting Galvanized Steel Structures."  You can get a
>free copy from them by calling 303-750-2900.  Basically they
>recommend the typical approach to any painting job:
> - Surface preparation
> - Proper paint selection
>
>To prepare the surface, remove all loose rust with a wire brush -
>- there is no need to remove all rust, just remove loose rust.
>If dirt or grease is present, clean the tower with a solvent or
>detergent.
>
>You could use spray cans of zinc rich paint such as Rust-Oleum
>Model 2185 cold galvanizing compound or a can of Rust-Oleum
>brush-on "Zinc-Sele" paint - a zinc rich paint that contains 86%
>pure zinc in the dried paint film.  A can of brush-on paint is
>much more economical than spray cans if you have a large project!
>Another zinc dust/zinc oxide paint conforming to Fed Spec TT-P-
>641, is McMaster-Carr's p/n 7725T2 ($22.92 per quart) or 7725T1
>(83.33 per gallon).
>
>Frank W3LPL donovanf@sgate.com
>===
>From: Chuck Dietz <dietz@texas.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Painting?
>
>I have used the cold galv sprays for spotty rust with excellent
>success.  A wire brush will prepare the surface for painting. --
>Chuck, KE5FI
>=====
>From: K7LXC@aol.com
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Painting?
>     IMO cold galv is one case where you get what you pay for.
>The most important properties I have found for the paint are
>adherence and coverage.  You want the cold galv to adhere to your
>tower surface. Cheaper rustoleum-type hardware store types
>sometimes only spray on a thin coating and then run. The more
>expensive types (Klein, LPS, etc.) spray on a thicker coat with a
>minimum of running.
>
>    And like Frank said, surface preperation is the key to
>success.
>
>     BTW TOWER TECH has the Klein for nine bucks a spray can.
>=====
>From: Scott Bullock <twoway@scoden.ma.ultranet.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Painting towers
>
>If anyone is interested, email me your fax tel #, I have some
>specs on a special cold galvanizing compound that I found here is
>Boston. It's called ZRC, and it comes in sprays, 1/2 pints,
>quarts, gallons, and 3.5 gallons.  This stuff has great specs, I
>plan on using it here.
>
>Scott KA1CLX
>
>P.S. I can't email it, as it was faxed to me, but I do have it
>stored in the computer.
>=====
>From: "Charles H. Harpole" <harpole@pegasus.cc.ucf.edu>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower Painting?
>
>I have had vy gud luck with cold galvinizing spray paint.  Some
>here in Fla. sprayed onto a slightly rusty spot on otherwise
>galvanized tower are still there ok after 7 years.  Also, have
>had gud luck with Hammermill "paint directly over rust" stuff.
>The chemical statement is that it bonds with the rust and makes
>the rust help out.  But, it forms such a thick coating, I don't
>know how it might impede a connection if needed to clamp onto
>whatever it is covering.  Had the Hammermill over heavy rust--no
>scraping even--for two years, still looks like day I put it on!!
>Metal was outside all that time.  K4VUD
>=====
>From: Pete Soper <psoper@encore.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Painting towers (ZRC sources)
>
>Scott Bullock <twoway@scoden.ma.ultranet.com> said about finding
>the ZRC cold galvanize people:
>
>> 617-328-6700 HOW'S THAT??? :)
>
>That's pretty good!
>
>Judy at ZRC is on the other end of that line. She sez to use 800
>831 3275 from outside Mass. Judy sent me straight to my local
>distributor but since they only sell gallons she took an order
>for two quarts on my VISA card and they'll be on the way after
>the weekend. ($26.08 per quart, by the way). You know this but
>the other readers should note that ZRC sells two types of cold
>galvanize, a "shiny" version that looks like brand new hot dipped
>galvanize and a "flat" version that will match the "Older than
>the Hills" decor of my tower. Also, while on hold for a moment I
>heard that UL labs approves ZRC finish for food prep areas. So if
>I can get it done before too long I can celebrate my new tower by
>frying an egg on it and eating it :-)
>
>Pete KS4XG
>=====
>From: Scott Bullock <twoway@scoden.ma.ultranet.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Liquid Galvanizing update
>
>I picked up the gallon of new ZRC galvy paint today (25lbs/gal),
>and spent this late afternoon and evening outside coating the
>legs of the 4N SSV section.  I thought some of you may be
>interested in hearing how it works out.
>
>First of all, wear gloves! This stuff is nasty! Stinks to all
>high heaven too.  It took about 1/2 hour of mixing to dissolve
>the zinc solids in the paint, and even then, you can never get it
>completely stirred.  Once it is stirred, it goes on very nicely
>with a regular paintbrush. They recommend a 1.5 mil thick finish,
>but the brush definitely puts on more than this.  It dries to the
>touch in about 20 minutes, and they say it's ready to recoat if
>necessary after 24 hours. Based on what I have seen for coverage
>so far, it only needs one coat. After doing all 3 legs of the
>first knockdown section, I hadn't even made a dent in how much is
>in the can. A little goes a long way!
>
>It also cleans up with standard thinner (got some on my arms),
>though they say use xylene.
>
>Scott KA1CLX
>
>BTW, I got it at Corrosion Control Specialists, Inc.,in Boston,
>they have a large warehouse full of any kind of weatherproofing
>material for metal! Talk to Chris @ 617-737-1677, he's a really
>nice guy to deal with, and even gave me a pint of organic based
>urethane paint to try too, which he said they used before to
>paint some towers for the Navy up in Maine.
>=====
>From: Pete Soper <psoper@encore.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997
>Subject: [TowerTalk] cold galvanize spray vs cans
>
>     You wrote:
>
>> That settles it!  I'm going to stick to Cold Galvanizing by
>LPS.  It is only $6 + change for a 16 oz. spray can that covers
>quite a bit of area, and it is 95% zinc!
>
>     The ZRC in cans is around $26-30 a quart, give or take for
>shipping (so find a local source). If my math based on Scott's
>mail is right, that makes the cost comparable to the spray cans
>at $6 on the basis of weight, not counting a small fudge factor
>for the propellant in the spray version.  However, it takes me 2
>1/2 spray cans to properly cover a section of 25G because I'm
>also painting a lot of newspaper behind the tower. I'm convinced
>it will be worse for both me and the surroundings when trying to
>spray paint sections that are erected. With the cans of paint and
>a mit (& plastic gloves) and brush I'm hoping to get 2-3 times
>the coverage of spray for this case.
>
>It's the surface prep for erected sections that's the killer. I'd
>pay for spray cans of abrasive pad :-)
>
>Pete KS4XG
>=====
>From: "MarchandJohn" <jmarchand@ecrm.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: 4 Sep 1997
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Source of Galv. products?
>
>Was reading the threads re: cold galvanize paints etc, from K8DX
>AND KA1CLX.
>
>At the same time I was flipping thru a West/E & B Marine catalog.
>Decided to peruse the paint section and found a couple of
>products which may have some potential for TowerTalk viewers.
>
>The first is:
>
>CRC Marine Instant Galvanize
>
>     "Renews and repairs galvanized surfaces. Offers the
>protection of expensive hot dip galvanizing. Ready to use right
>out of the can."
>
>      16 oz. spray can CRC #06054 West #279646  $7.75
>
>The second is:
>
>Petit Marine Paints    Trailercoat
>
>     "Seals and prevents rust on galvanized and stainless steel.
>Bright silver-colored urethane coating forms a moisture-proof
>barrier against rust, and seals existing corrosion to prevent its
>spread. It adheres tenaciously to both galvanized steel and
>roughened stainless steel. It can be applied by roller, brush or
>spray and can be left as is or overcoated with other paints."
>
>Coverage: 100-150 sq ft/qt. Dry time 1-2 hrs. Thinner: none
>required.
>
>West #379594  $16.95/qt.
>
>This is just for information, I have no ties with West/E&B. I
>just happen to have their catalog for my boating stuff.
>
>John K1RC (ex-K1CGJ)
>===
>From: "MarchandJohn" <jmarchand@ecrm.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: 4 Sep 1997
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Source of Galv. paint
>
>Boy, did I mess up my last message --but good--.
>
>I had a lot of good info, but blew the contact numbers.  Thanks
>to Dick K9APW for bringing that to my attention.
>
>Here goes the rest of the story.
>
>West/E&B Marine has about 100 stores around the country.
>
>The toll free order number is:  1-800-538-0775 (24 hrs/7days)
>The fax order number is:          408-728-4360 (24 hrs/7days)
>Technical Support number:       1-800-538-0775 (M-F 5am to 5pm
>pacific)
>Customer Service line: for returns, delivery or repair info:
>call either of the above numbers M-F 5am to 5pm pacific, Sat 6am
>to 3pm pacific
>
>Sorry for the mess-up
>
>John K1RC
>=====
>From: Pete Soper <psoper@encore.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Source of Galv. products?
>
>You wrote:
>>   Following on with what John said...  A few months ago I went
>to purchase cold galv from Home Depot.  The ONLY brand they have
>is Rustoleum.  Anyone have any opinions on that brand?
>
>   I've used 6-8 of the 16oz cans of Rust-oleum brand of spray
>cold galvanize. It appears to me to be excellent. The spray
>action is very uniform and of high quality. Of the three brands
>I've used it's my favorite.
>
>The CRC spray is the same to a touch, worse with respect to spray
>quality, but more expensive here (RDU area of NC) while the
>Illinois Bronze brand of cold galvanize gets my "unacceptable"
>label because of the quality of the spray fitting on the can.
>Once out of the can, except for the blobs and streaks caused by
>the crummy version, it all looks the same. We should check back
>on this thread in a year or two :-)
>
>     By the way, quarts of cold galvanize weigh about 6.5 pounds,
>so a spray can with 16oz of net contents corresponds to five
>fluid ounces of the non-spray type.
>
>Pete  KS4XG
>=====
>From: "Randy Lake" <rlake@monad.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997
>Subject: [TowerTalk] RE:Galv. paint
>
>A gud source for galvanizing paint is NAPA Auto Parts..
>The product is called "ZINC-RICH" part# 765-1610
>price abt $5.49 / can.  This works very well!
>-- Randy N1KWF
>=====
>From: K4OJ@aol.com
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Re: Home Depot Cold Galvanizing
>
>The cold process galvanizing from Home Depot in the Dark Blue
>Labeled spray can, by CRC, is nice, but it ain't the really good
>stuff.
>
>Years ago I had access to a product called Galvicon.  This was
>the real thing.  Unfortunately they were bought out by Sherwin
>Williams (or one of the big paint outfits) and they have since
>dropped this item.
>
>Galvicon is my standard of comparison.  I used to buy it from a
>welding supply place.  After the welders working on a high rise
>job would do their thing, they would paint this on top of the
>weld.  It was really good.
>
>We used the Galvicon in Homestead for the towers that Andrew took
>down.  Wherever we used Galvicon there was no sign of rusting.
>Here in Florida this is a miracle.
>
>Should you happen to be in the trade and have a supplier who
>still has some galvicon on the shelf, I would be willing to have
>it shipped to me....it was THAT GOOD.
>
>So, Home Depot product was okay - but really a glorified paint
>(dunno what I expected from something that would come out of that
>tiny a nozzle....the good stuff is so thick in zinc it takes
>serious thing to get it to spray.
>
>k4oj
>=====
>
>On Sat, 13 Sep 1997 Terry Sharar <terrys@romulus.ncsc.mil>
>writes:
>
>>    Just purchased some cold galvanizing compound from ZRC.
>Their data sheet recommends clean up with their own stuff called
>"XXX" (wow!) or "Xylol" or "Xylene". Anyone have any experience
>with any or all of these clean up solutions? How much do the
>cost, where can they be bought,are they hazardous, etc.?
>>
>>Terry WB3DSB
>
>From: Scott Bullock <twoway@scoden.ma.ultranet.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Sat, 13 Sep 1997
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] ZRC Clean Up?
>
>Don't bother with the special stuff, just use regular paint
>thinner, I got mine all done with the ZRC and it cleans up nicely
>with the thinner. The ZRC does a real nice job and hardens to an
>unbelievably hard finish too.
>
>Scott KA1CLX
>
>
>From: mainhart@juno.com (Rick Mainhart)
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Sun, 14 Sep 1997
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] ZRC Clean Up?
>
>Contact ZRC and have them send you the MSDS (Material Safety Data
>Sheet) for both the cold galvanizing, and for their "XXX"
>cleaning compound.
>
>If they decline to provide this, contact OSHA, and ask THEM to
>forward you a copy ... also advise the distributer you will be
>contacting OSHA.
>
>The MSDS will contain such information as flash and boiling
>point, health issues, exposure limits, first aid for accidental
>contact/consumption/ingestion and will give you the proper use
>(and contitions) for the product, including appropriate disposal
>instructions.
>
>=====
>From: k9ofg@juno.com
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Tower paint
>
>Sherwin Williams has Tower-Guard specifically formulated for
>power company transmission towers.  It is heavy with zinc
>chromate and goes on  with one coat.  It is available from any S
>W dealer or store, but they will have to order it--nobody stocks
>it.  It is available only in 5 gallon cans, and, as of last
>October, was list priced at $55 per gallon.  I painted 50 feet of
>Rohn 25G with one gallon and had enough left to paint another two
>sections, I estimate.  It is an alkyd enamel, and the tote weight
>of the wet paint is 16 pounds per gallon.  The guys at the paint
>store said it was the heaviest paint they had ever handled.  I
>assume the zinc chromatic is responsible for that.  I have their
>catalog page, but there is no mention of cat number.
>
>Richard Owens, K9OFG   k9ofg@juno.com
>=====
>From: Scott Bullock <twoway@scoden.ma.ultranet.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tower paint
>
>Call Corrosion Control Specialties in Boston, ask for Chris, I
>don't have their number handy, but should be in 411 information.
>They sell ZRC-Galvilite paint which is a brush-on 94% zinc paint
>and it goes on slicker than !@#$.
>
>I bought a gallon to redo my Rohn SSV tower last summer, was
>$97.00 per gallon, I only used 1/2 a gallon. Lots left over for
>future projects.  It's real nasty stuff, and must be used out-
>doors, but it makes an incredibly hard/durable surface! Don't
>waste your time with the spray on junk, as it won't be thick
>enuf, and you'll end up doing everything all over again.
>
>CCS will ship this stuff too, shouldn't cost too much.  If you
>want to see the finished product go to:
><http://www.qsl.net/ka1clx.htm> for all the pics.  Have fun, and
>take your time doing it for a real nice job-it's well worth it! -
>- Scott KA1CLX
>=====
>From: Jonathan Starr <kalepa@maui.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Re: Galv. Paint for Towers
>
>The American Association of Hot Dip Galvanizers recommends zinc
>dust in an epoxy base primer, which doesn't need a topcoat if you
>like matte dark grey.
>
>We use a 2 part product (the dust is separate from the epoxy)
>from Enron that works great. Contrary to the spec sheet, you can
>mix it in small batches if you fractionalize the two parts.
>
>It is set off by humidity, so the drying time varies depending on
>climate. When it starts to thicken, we add a bit of MEK thinner
>to extend the pot life a bit.
>
>Jonathan KH6X     kalepa@maui.net
>=====
>From: Malcolm Clark <rudder1@ibm.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Painting a new mast?
>
>Turner, Bob wrote:
>>
>> I have purchased 24' of chrome moly 4130 mast that I probably
>will be cutting at the 19' mark.  The mast needs to be protected
>from the elements.  I'm planning on using RUST-OLEUM at the
>moment.  First a coat of RUST-OLEUM primer, then the paint.   Any
>suggestions for primer or paint?  What color should I paint the
>mast to make it disappear from view?  How do I paint inside?
>Should I cap the top end of mast?
>
>I personally haven't had much luck with any of the hardware store
>variety of paints as far as rustproofing goes.  What works better
>is cold galvanizing spray (zinc spray).  You should be able to
>find it at good industrial supply or marine supply--sometimes a
>good hardware store will carry it.  I have used the CRC brand
>with excellent results on steel around saltwater.
>
>A two part industrial epoxy coating (not paint) will give even
>better results.  One such product is Ameron Protective Coatings
>Corp.'s Amerlock-400.  It is available in a number of colors and
>can be rolled or brushed on.  This stuff (and other similar
>brands) needs to be handled with care though.  You definitely
>don't want to breathe the fumes.  Hardware stores don't carry it-
>-you have to get it from an industrial supply.
>
>Malcolm KR4HP
>=====
>From: SavageBR <SavageBR@aol.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Fri, 15 May 1998
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Tower Paint.
>
>I am getting ready to paint a Rohn galvanized tower to renew the
>finish. I have read most of the old thread on "Tower Paint". I
>have found a product at Sherwin Williams called Zinc Clad #5. It
>is approx 90% zinc, and $61 per Gal.  It is the only Sherwin
>Williams product that is available in gal's.  Has anyone used
>this product or know anything about it?
>
>Bruce AA4Z
>=====
>From: K7LXC <K7LXC@aol.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Sat, 16 May 1998
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] tower paint
>
>In a message dated 98-05-16 08:29:38 EDT, Ed Stratton W1ZZ,
>stratto@tiac.net writes:
>
><< I seem to remember a thread or two about touching up rusted or
>tarnished Galvanized tower with some type of paint?  Any
>suggestions?  >>
>
>       For minor surface rust, after prepping the surface spray
>on cold galvanizing paint. These contain lots of zinc. This is a
>case of 'you get what you pay for'. The cheap hardware store
>varieties run and don't adhere very well. LPS makes a good one as
>does Klein.
>
>      For bigger problems, you can use Rust Converter. You apply
>it and it reacts with the rust. It neutalizes it and then forms a
>hard coating over it.
>
>      If you're interested, you can check the yellow pages and
>call a local industrial coatings supplier. There are lots of
>products out there depending on what you want to do and how much
>you want to spend.
>
>Steve   K7LXC
>=====
>From: seweber@netnitco.net
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
>Date: Sat, 16 May 1998
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] tower paint
>
>I bought 7 sections of used Rohn 25 about 15 years ago and used
>steel wool to remove rust and brush-on zinc coating to touch up
>the nasty spots.  I wrapped the end of a 10 stick of 1/2"
>thinwall conduit with coarse steel wool and used it to clean the
>INSIDE of each leg, then used a rag on the
>conduit to make a giant Q-TIP for painting the inside of each
>leg.  Three coats inside and out, with at least 24 hour drying
>time between coats.  I pulled the tower down after 10+ years and
>it came right apart and looked as good inside and out as the day
>I put it up.
>
>Steve Weber, KD9BO    seweber@netnitco.net
>
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
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