I think you're on the right track, Byron. I think I would use 2 appropriately rated forged shackles at each anchor, with one pin through the head of the anchor and the other shackle's pin through an
Hans, I don't quite make your demographic - I turn 67 in a month - but I still climb my own towers, and the tallest is 145' of Rohn 45. That's a long hike if I haven't done it in a while... ;-) 73, g
Has anyone out there "Moxon-ized" their CC XM240? I would like to buy the coils and hat assemblies that were surplussed by the conversion (particularly the coils). Thanks... 73, geo - n4ua __________
Hi Bob, You might also look at designing the joint with inserts or sleeving, so that it can become a mechanical (bolted or clamped) joint. Have fun! 73, geo - n4ua On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 12:02 PM, B
Towertalk, One thing to remember about real bearings is that they are precision parts. A 2" bore bearing will be 2.00x ID, with x being a small number like "1". A galvanized or painted real 2" tube m
I have 2 hives of honey bees about 70 feet from the base... ;-) But, I do live on a farm so that affects my decision. In a more urban location, a wood fence would be a rf-transparent solution. 73, ge
Does anyone know the gap between the two halves of the driven element tubing on the newer XM240? That is, the exposed length of the fiberglass insulator that joins the two halves. Thanks... 73, geo -
The XM240 instructions show the element tips (the 3/8" tubing) being held by two each of the smaller-width #4 stainless worm-gear clamps. Has anyone had any issues with the tips coming loose? I have
Thanks to everyone for their input. I count 2 anecdotes relating no problems with either the old or the new CC clamp system, accompanied by almost universal advice to adopt the belt and suspenders ap
I, too, have stripped hose clamps during installation, but it was my own fault. Who knew the darn things had torque specs from the manufacturer... ;-) Now I use a torque wrench (a small one, calibrat
Benny, The only time I had to rig a gin pole to a HDBX, I took a short length of 2" pipe (maybe 3' long) and welded 2 "L" shaped hooks made from 3/8" or 1/2" rod to the pipe, spaced so they just fit
I can't comment on the saw, but I will say that, in general, you should be able to twist to destruction any muffler clamp on your tower. Using a large wrench or an 18"-class breaker bar with socket,
But you can instruct modern waterjets to consider one edge of the cut to be the "good" edge and it will tilt the jet so that that edge is dead nuts square and all of the taper is on the "waste" side.
Great for welding, lousy for antennas. The copper coating is, like, one copper atom standing on the shoulders of another, just enough to prevent corrosion during indoor storage. It will rust followin
Wanted - Ring Rotor to fit Rohn 45. It can have a bad motor or no motor, with or without controller, some rust ok, as long as the teeth are good on the ring and the drive gear is there, and the ring-
Howie, That's schedule 80 pipe dimensions, not tube. I'm going to vote against any exotic alloy. Check the wall thickness carefully; if it's close to 0.200, it's pipe. 73, geo - n4ua ________________
If you weld the aluminum tubing, you destroy the heat treatment in the Heat Affected Zone, resulting in a much weaker element. 73, geo - n4ua _______________________________________________ _________
But where do you get those shackles today? I have used Joslyn shackles in the past, acquired from another ham, but when I went looking for more two years ago, I couldn't find a vendor. I know it's ut
Google Joslyn J372. Another fellow told me that they are available from Hubbell Power Systems, but 50 is the minimum order. Some enterprising DX type ham, perhaps with an ENGINEERING connection, migh