Good Afternoon Gentlemen, I have a rather quirky situation and a question about it. I have been chasing down a low level 60Hz hum I get across my speakers when I plug my Alpha 87A into a shared A/C S
Unless it's been modified, an 87A shouldn't have a neutral, just two legs and ground. What kind of plug and receptacle are you using? Are they 4-pole (L1, L2, N, G), or 3-pole? If the latter, unless
The Alpha 87a shouldnt even have a neutral as there isnt one on the line cord. The line cord should only have two hots and a ground. The supply from the receptacle should only have two hots and a g
All, First Thank You to all who replied!!! I received a lot of replies off list, too many to answer individually. So I will attempt to answer all the questions in this one response as best as I can.
All, Just a slight correction on the Cable from the Main Electrical Panel into the Bedroom. It is a 6/3, 6AWG with L1, L2, N & a Ground wire. Thank you, Mike W5CUL All, First Thank You to all who rep
I think that I see your problem. The ground wire should never carry ANY current. It is not a substitute for neutral. With the old wiring system for dryers of 2 hot and neutral (3 wires total) it had
To clarify, the way you describe having the amp wired you have a loop with neutral tied to ground at the amp via the coax cables to the other equipment that is connected properly to ground. 73 Gary K
Regardless of hum issues, the 220v 3 wire receptacles should be connected to ground, not neutral. It's a safety issue. Victor 4X6GP _______________________________________________ Amps mailing list A
I believe the appropriate hookup depends on the circuitry. As already noted, the guiding principle is that return current should always be through neutral, and never through ground. This is an import
All, Problem Resolved. Thank you to all who provided advice, guidance and knowledge in working through this issue!! Root Cause: Alpha "Green Wire" tied to Neutral due to using a 3 Pole 220Vac Dryer R
Mike, At some point, if not done already in your diagnostic troubleshooting, verify the N-G bonding bar tightness in the main distribution panel. And based on your finding, it's probably a good idea
NO, NO, NO! As K4FMX has correctly told you, the amp needs ONLY Line, Line, and Ground. It does NOT need Neutral, and you should make no connection to it. It is a HUGE violation of Code to connect Ne
Well actually by code the only place where neutral and ground can come together in an electrical service is at the first disconnect point. Some meter systems have the main breaker incorporated withi
That's certainly true for the 87A being discussed here and most modern amps. However, some older amps like my Alpha 70 and 77 series have the blower connected between L1 and the chassis where in thos
I think what was being said there is that if an Amp has 110Vac Fans, then there should be an independent Neutral associated with the Amp as well, to include L1, L2 and Ground. I think what was being
One very good way to do it is what K4XU did in the Ten Tec Titan 425 (circa 1978-9), whose power xfmr has two windings that are strapped in series for 240V and in parallel for 120V. When strapped for
This is an interesting discussion of a topic that recurs frequently. I agree with Jim K9YC that house wiring should preferably bond the Neutral circuit to Ground at the service entrance, and nowhere
Hi Jim, I'm not giving an OPINION. I am stating what the LAW says about it, namely the Electrical Code adopted by local Authorities Having Jurisdiction (AHJs), virtually all of which are either the N
The main bonding jumper is installed at the service disconnect. It is not "perferrably" done there, it is required that it be done there, and only there. In residential services, it is fairly common
Agree with everything you said Jim, with one exception: Not quite right. In those few exceptions, you are permitted to bond the NEUTRAL to the frame. You are not permitted to use an EGC as a current-