Agreed. I should have said, thoroughly coat the tubing. Myself, I don't
worry about the excess if the tubing is clamped tight, or in my case,
riveted. F12 uses three rivets in a row. I believe they now use two
rows at 90 degrees. That last rivet close to the end seriously weakens
the inner tube when you are down to 5/16ths, or 3/8ths
However, excess Noalox can act as a lubricant if the tubes are not
clamped tight. I'd not use a rag to wipe off the excess though as a dry
rag is likely to remove too much. Like many things, there is a learning
curve to leave the proper amount.
73
Roger (K8RI)
On 6/13/2016 Monday 9:12 AM, John / K4WJ wrote:
Roger, I vaguely remember someone posting on this reflector that when
using Noalox that after applying it you should run a rag over the area
to remove most of the bulk and just leave behind a very thin layer of
Noalox or Penetrox. Why do you say "Use lots of Noalox when
reassembling?"
73..de John/K4WJ
On 6/12/2016 2:03 PM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
After the usual wait, PB Blaster, or Mouse Milk loosen the corrosion
and provide a lubricant. Metal fragments, depend on size. Over time,
they tend to corrode faster than the tubing, My C19XR uses a row of 3
rivets with one quite close to the end, but the factory holes have
been deburred. Disassembly just requires carefully drilling out the
head without drilling into the tube. They are 1/8th" rivets, so a
sharp, 1/4 inch drill works well at removing the heads, A small
drill, or drift punch easily pushes the shank into the tube, leaving
a clean hole. Fine Scotchbright pads will shine up the outside of
the inner tube and a small wire brush for cleaning tubes that size
usually works well. _Use lots of Noalox when reassembling. __
___
The scratches may, or may not be a problem depending on the depth.
Deep scratches tend to have ridges along the edges. Just smooth off
the ridges along the scratches. before reassembly.
73
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