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[TowerTalk] tower advice and suggestions

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] tower advice and suggestions
From: "Marlon K. Schafer" <ooe@odessaoffice.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 09:00:55 -0700
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Hi All,

I'm working on a grant application for a network expansion and I could use 
some advice on the towers.

Our ground out here is either sandy, solid rock, soil (farm ground) or soil 
and rock mix (also farm ground :-P).

I'll want the ability to put a distribution omni near the top (basically no 
wind load), 3 sector antennas roughly 8" by 6" by 2'.  Around half way we'll 
want to run backhaul antennas (don't need to go to the top because we'll 
have the towers no more than 15 miles apart).  The backhaul antennas will be 
3 3' dish antennas and 3 2' dish antennas per tower.  There will also be the 
radio units themselves and those boxes are about 1'x1'x4" on average.  So 
there will be from 6 to 15 of them per tower.

>From talking to my rep at Hutton it looks like there are two pretty good 
choices for me.  Both free standing towers and mono poles.

The free standing towers would make it easier to add things like ham 
repeaters, public safety systems etc.

The mono poles are nearly half the money.  I don't know what the cost of 
mounting accessories would add though.

I do NOT want to use guyed towers if I can help it.  No matter what I always 
seem to end up with a link that has to shoot through the guy wires.  grrr

We're in a 70mph wind zone here, though I've seen it hit 100 in the last few 
years.  No tornadoes etc. though.

What would you guys use?  What factors affect your decision making process?

And FYI, the motor home emergency communications project is coming along, 
slowly but it's moving.  We did use it to provide free internet to people at 
a couple of motorbike races about a month ago.  I learned that 3 group 27 
batteries take a LONG time to re-charge once they've been pulled completely 
down.  And they go down at a surprisingly high rate when you leave the 
furnace on in a 29' motorhome!  Using the DC charging port on a Honda 1kw 
generator only give you 8 amps of charge.  But the 4kw (built in and much 
noisier!) unit will charge at 45 amps!  Even with BOTH running it takes the 
better part of 4 hours to bring the batteries full up to speed.

I've decided to install a 3' x 16" x 3" weather tight box on top of the 
motorhome.  I'll run a conduit from the cupboard that the radios will be in 
to the box on the top.  That will allow us to easily make changes to the 
antennas without having much to worry about when it comes to water getting 
into the coach.  It'll also leave the inside looking as un cluttered as 
possible and that'll be a good thing for momma!

The mast I built onto the coach (mostly for my backhaul high speed data 
antennas) turned out to be pretty easy.  I built a couple of brackets that 
attached to the back of the coach (lag screwed into the solid wood 
framework).  They have u-bolts welded on and are painted body color so they 
don't look bad at all.  I then used a mix of galvanized EMT, fence pipe and 
aluminized exhaust pipe.  I welded nuts to the largest pipe (two of them, 6" 
apart), I made a couple of t-handled bolts to fit the nuts.  The middle pipe 
and the top pipe are able to be pinned (with captive spring pins like you'd 
use on a trailer hitch to keep the couple from rattling loose) at pre set 
heights.  I painted two bands on the inside pipes so that I could tell when 
I was about out of room to push them up.

All pipes fit with almost no clearance, just enough to slide them up easily. 
The inside most pipe is 2" o.d. so everything is strong enough that I don't 
have to guy it, even with 2' grid antennas (two of them) on it.  I didn't 
put the system all of the way up this time, and I didn't have both antennas 
at the very top.  But we did have 40ish mph winds and there was NO sign of 
anything loosening up and no damage to anything at all.  I can take this 
system up to nearly 30' above the ground and it still collapses small enough 
that I can store it underneath if I choose to!  If it's left on the coach 
there are NO tools needed to raise and lower the mast and it can be turned 
360* once it's up to the height that I want it at.

At some point I may drill some holes in the second pipe so that I can raise 
it then pin it before tightening the t-handled bolts.  This would make it 
quite a bit easier to aim the antennas when needed, now I have to hold 
everything up and turn, then tighten.  I may also add a brace from the 
bottom bracket to the bumper so that I can confidently stand on the upper 
bracket while working on things.  I don't think I've even got $100 into the 
mast so far!

laters,
marlon

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