I see what you mean. Oh well, so much for that idea .......................
Bob
K6UJ
> On Apr 5, 2021, at 10:20 AM, Steven Katz <stevek@jmr.com> wrote:
>
> How will it rotate at all without the brake power engaged? That's what
> "releases" the brake. Unpowered, it's engaged.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TowerTalk <towertalk-bounces@contesting.com> On Behalf Of Robert Harmon
> Sent: Monday, April 5, 2021 10:18 AM
> To: TowerTalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rotor Cabling Query
>
> So will the HyGain Tailtwister hold securely with no creeping if I disconnect
> the brake wire ? I have had the typical stuck brake scenario with my old
> Tail Twisters in the past and I like the
> idea of not using the brake circuit if possible. I always let it coast to a
> stop anyway. I have a new TailTwister replacement going up in a couple of
> weeks.
>
>
> Bob
> K6UJ
>
>
>
>> On Apr 5, 2021, at 9:56 AM, john@kk9a.com wrote:
>>
>> You can save a lot of heavy gauge wire by using a rotator without a brake. A
>> brake adds controller complexity, it sometimes sticks and it requires two
>> extra conductors. I believe only Hy-Gain uses brakes. I have not owned a
>> rotator with a brake in decades and even my 60 ft boom antennas to not creep
>> in the wind.
>>
>> John KK9A
>>
>> Lux, Jim wrote:
>>
>>
>> The brake draws 5A @ 24V according to the manual. You probably need
>> 20V or so minimum, so for 1400 ft (out and back), to keep the voltage
>> drop at 6V from the usual 26V transformer, the resistance has to be
>> less than about an ohm. AWG10 is 1 ohm/1000 ft. So you'd need what, AWG 8?
>> That's a pretty substantial expense.
>>
>> The manual calls for AWG14 for 300 ft. You're running more than twice
>> that, so to keep the resistance the same, you need to go down 3 gauges
>> (3 gauges is twice the area/half the resistance). They call out AWG16
>> for most of the other wires than the common and brake. (The motor
>> draws
>> 2.25A)
>>
>>
>> Someone probably makes a suitable interface (Green Heron?).
>>
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