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[TowerTalk] The Dayton 3000# Worm Gear winch revisited.

To: "towertalk@contesting.com" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] The Dayton 3000# Worm Gear winch revisited.
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2015 22:54:17 -0400
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>

We swapped the spur gear winch out that was on the raising fixture for the 3000# Dayton worm gear winch. The Dayton appears to be rugged, but like most inexpensive winches, the gears appear to be crude, steel on steel, but it is hefty.

I thoroughly greased the worm gear and worm gear wheel. I could find no recommended lube and the hand cranked speed as with most winches, is way too slow for the preferred method of lubrication.

At least with Dennis (N8ERF) on the crank it went fairly well, but with the tower several feet from vertical, the worm began to chatter. I could see it move laterally in the front bushing (The one closest to the handle). I used LPS-2 which is a penetrant with grease suspension on the bushings. That quieted it down. Had we used a power drive, it would have destroyed the bearing.

I know these companies have to keep the winches affordable and a "good" worm gear reducer would cost at least 2 or 3 times the cost of these winches alone. I'm going to price out some commercial reducers and see what would be involved with driving the winch drum through the commercial reducer. I found lots of reducers, but no stock prices. I can see it requiring some mill and lathe time as well as an adapter from the input shaft to a half inch drill motor. I'd use a gear ratio that would not overload a heavy duty 1/2" drill motor. So we are probably looking at a 100:1, give or take.

With the 50:1 on the Dayton it took roughly 800 to 900 turns of the crank handle and those first 50 to 100 turns took a lot of effort. On a fairly warm day, in direct sunlight about 10 feet from the shop with no wind, Dennis sure worked up a good sweat.

Once the tower is in operation, I plan on replacing the bad bearing with an Oil-Lite bushing reamed to fit and drilling both bushing holder and bushings to take a Zerk and use BR-2 Grease. Normally bushings of the Oil-lite type are lifetime lubricated, but I think the heavy load and slow rotation might be a bit much. Perhaps I could bore out the supports and press in roller bearings. Thin roller bearings with lots of rollers and Zerks to keep them properly greased would probably work.

Input from a good mechanical engineer on this would be appreciated.

--

73

Roger (K8RI)


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