Hi,
This is exactly what I am doing in Green Creek, NC at my mothers house.
I had about 30 min of time to run something from the well house to the
log house for ant feeds and etc. The plumber had 3" PVC and had to make
one 90d bend and you guessed it, he only had one standard elbow. That's the
only mistake so far that was made. Should be either two 45d or a sweeping
conduit elbow. I did get 5 LMR400 coax plus one Wireman rotor cable and
one romex ac feed. Also added one rope (actually only had some spare RG58)
in case have to pull another line. Was a tight pull thru the elbow but
went ok and no signs of damage.
Hope this helps and keep up the good inputs here. Read all and gain lots
of knowledge. Tnx all.
73 Phil
At 01:11 7/28/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>John,
>
>Usually, there are local building codes that do not allow A/C power in the
>same conduit with other cables, especially if it is hard-wired to your
>electrical panel and especially outdoors.
>Also, that is not the way to ensure no interference between the A/C and your
>coax.
>
>But, there is a way to do what you want and not violate the codes and not
>have interference. Just install the Romex cable (I'd suggest UF cable) and
>at the shack end of the cable put an electrical plug. At the tower end, put
>a junction box and an electrical outlet. When you need power at the tower,
>plug in the plug at the shack. Presumably, you will be working on something
>at the tower and any interference in the coax will not be heard in the RX
>since you are at the tower. When you are finished with the project, unplug
>the plug.
>
>Just remember to use the correct size wire in the UF cable for the distance
>you wish to run the cable. Check the ARRL Handbook or other electrical
>references for this wire size.
>
>Also, I would use a GFCI outlet into which I would plug in the cable at the
>shack end. This is a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter that blows the
>built-in GFCI breaker, disconnecting the power to the cable, if the current
>being drawn in the ground wire is not the same as the current in the "hot"
>and "neutral" wires (within mili- or micro-Amperes). That way, you don't
>get fried at the tower.
>
>73,
>
>Bill, N3RR
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>[mailto:owner-towertalk@contesting.com]On Behalf Of molenda
>Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 11:17 PM
>To: towertalk@contesting.com
>Subject: [TowerTalk] placing electrical power wire inside PVC along with
>coax
>
>
>
>Hi Guys ! I am still working on my tower project. I have decided to use 3"
>PVC to carry the coax from the tower to the shack. along with the coax will
>be the rotor cable . I had a Idea ! what about running a length of outdoor
>electrical wire so that I can have power to the tower for an out let for
>soldering guns , tools or a spot light ? any ideas will this effect the
>incoming signal ? will it couple with the coax or cause some sort of noise
>when it is in use , being that it is so close to the coax ? Thanks for
>your Help !! John KB2HUK
>
>
>-----
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>
>
>
>-----
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-----------------------------------------------
Philip Florig e-mail:pflorig@ieee.org
PO Box 44 (or):W9IXX@arrl.net
Worth, IL. 60482 amateur radio:W9IXX
USA also:J3X-T30,31,32,33P
team member:AH1A-J3A
-----------------------------------------------
Metro DX Club club call:W9TY
Oak Forest, IL. qsl via W9IXX
-----------------------------------------------
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