On 11/22/16 09:08, Russ Dearmore via TowerTalk wrote:
> I use Scotch 33 or 88 leaving a small tail about 2" long, folded back
> on itself leaving it 1" long, and then silicone but leaving the tail
> sticking out. When removing it comes undone quickly. Also liquid
> tape is nice although it's just that much more expense. Russ K5ZZR
> My Heroes Wear Combat Boots! Nothing can stop the man with the right
> mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help
> the man with the wrong mental attitude.
I just put up a 450 this summer, so far as I can tell is is same
connector and boot.
I put the boot on when I made my cable, but then cut it off.
The boot is vinyl and at best a splash gaurd. With high UV in AK I
could not see in lasting long, and the first 60mph wind and rain event
would have had it holding water.
I put just enough dielectric greas in the connector to flow out into the
threads, wiped the excess and wrapped with self-fusing silicone splicing
tape. Then a overwrap under light tension of 3m 88, final extra full
turn under no tension. Then a T&B/Panduit/similar high qual UV
protected metal tab zip tie under just enough tension to keep it in place.
Silicone seals, 88 is abrasion/UV protection, zip keeps the tail in place.
This is the same as I do with coax connections.
Best is the 3m self-fusing if you can get it (better stretch/conform
over stepped connections), but the "rescue tape" commonly found these
days is functionally the same stuff.
Cut tie, unwrap 88, score the silicone with a razor and peals right off.
I just re-did 2 barrels I sealed this way on a HF antenna run that had
been in place for 5 years, where the connections are in wet leaves or
for several weeks a year actually under water... The only leak was
where a moose stepped on the cable in the middle, both barrels were
still dry and perfect.
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