K7LXC@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 96-08-28 10:07:38 EDT, you write:
> >Ok, this prompts a question from this corner. (I have used the commercial
> >wrap, it is good, but I am cheap). I have been using two types of wrap
> under
> >the 88 tape for 15-20 yrs now and have had nadda problem, but would like a
> >pro's opinion....i.e., have I just been lucky?
> >One wrap I have used (and I do not have the commercial name) is a rubber
> tape
> >that is sticky on one side. This is a stretchable tape and makes a good
> tight
> >seal around the connector. It is a tape used in the telecommunications
> >industry in the outside plant environment. (On the roll, the sticky side is
> >protected by a plastic cover that is taken off prior to use). The closest I
> >can describe it is a quite thick sticky version of normal rubber tape.
> >The other tape is a soft rubber compound that comes in a tape "form" but the
> >only "stickiness" is due to the inherent stickiness of the compound. It is
> >somewhat like the commercial wrap except thicker (probably >1/8") and comes
> >in widths varying from 1" to 2" (depending on what I can get my hands on).
> By
> >stretching it, the thickness will approach that of the commercial wrap.
> >Again, a product used in the telecommunications industry as a seal for
> splice
> >cases, etc. and again, I don't know the commercial name. The nice thing
> about
> >this second product is that it is "somewhat" re-usable. That is, it does
> not
> >lose its stickiness over time. Of course the removal of it from the
> connector
> >shell pretty much destroys that part of it, but the part still on the coax
> can
> >still serve as the base for new over the shell itself. It can be formed
> then
> >into a seamless rubber boot....Opinion? Gud stuff or lucky?
>
> Hi, Chuck --
>
> Sounds good to me. There are lots of manufacturers that make different
> products for different applications. Many of the types of materials that you
> mentioned are used by power companies for their high voltage, high
> temperature and high current applications where insulating and voltage
> breakdown specs are very important. If you can find them, they can be useful
> for amateur applications. The problems are finding them and affording them.
> Here's the 3M description of the 23 Rubber Splicing Tape that we carry:
> "Scotch 23 is a self-fusing, 30-mil, EPR-based, corona-resistant insulating
> tape which provides a tight, void-free moisture resistant electrical
> insulation. Use 23 as primary electrical insulation for splicing all solid
> dielectric cables through 69 KV and for building stress cones on cables up to
> 35 KV. Meets requirements of HHI-553C, Grade A and B, and MIL-I-3825B and
> ASTM D-4388, Type III". You can imagine that there are lots of other tapes
> with different specs for all kinds of purposes. I don't think you can hurt
> yourself too badly using these kinds of industrial materials. Actually, I
> would probably recommend almost ANY of these over CoaxSeal - hi.
> >
> >ps...regarding the Scotch Kote vapor seal, how would that compare to a
> >spray-on vapor seal that used to go by the name of Seal Kote (or something
> >that sounded like that). I had never thought of using a vapor seal over the
> >88 tape....gud idea.
> >
> Scotchkote coating "provides a tough, oil-resistant outer seal on
> electrical insulation subjected to abnormal weathering, oil or moisture
> conditions, such as splices in manholes and underwater cables. The brush
> applied coating provides added oil and moisture protections whdn used over an
> application of Scotch vinyl electrical tape". I've also seen communications
> installers use the spray-on stuff that you mentioned and it probably works as
> well for outdoor applications. You won't go wrong using either one.
>
> 73 and good luck, Steve K7LXC
Just my 2 cents worth. A friend of mine is the 3M district manager down
here and he sampled me some Vinyl rubber splicing mastic stuff and some
of the same stuff without the Vinyl ( could be rubber backing ). Its
used for underground waterproof splicing applications,etc. I used alot
of it 4 years ago when I built my rotating tower with 12 beams and wires
on it.
I am paying for it now that I am moving half of the stacks over to my
second tower. The stuff is too touph to remove easily. I have cut
myself several times with a razor knife, jabbed myself with wire dykes,
and probably lost most of my religion. Not a good thing to try to do at
150 feet up. So be careful on what one uses for connector seal. I
think I will just use 33 and scotch kote from now on.
Jay wx0b
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