All:
I've used LOCTITE (SP?). The kind of LOCTITE to be used is the one you can
remove the machine screw later.
NOT the permenent LOCTITE which you cannot remove w/o doing some real damage.
George:
Where do you find your product? Does it have a product name? WEB site?
USPS address? I'm willing to try it. It might help me in my professional
work.....
Please advise
Lee
============================================================================
====
At 10:31 PM 11/6/01 -0600, George Skoubis wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I don't have a Ham IV, but I have a little experience with keeping bolts
>tight that are threaded into aluminum. The solution for aluminum heads on
>racing engines (VERY expensive) is to tap all the threads for heli-coils and
>then thread the bolts into them. They're not really that hard to install
>either...
>
> You won't ever have to worry about having the rotor apart enough times to
>wear one out.
>
> This would beat finding pieces on the ground...
>
> You can take a look here
>http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil/Default.htm
>
>73,
>
>George / KF9YR
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>[mailto:owner-towertalk@contesting.com]On Behalf Of David O Hachadorian
>Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2001 2:09 PM
>To: towertalk@contesting.com
>Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Ham-M IV Refurb?
>
>
>
>
>
>On Tue, 6 Nov 2001 19:32:53 -0700 "Steve/n0tu" <n0tu@webaccess.net>
>writes:
>
>>
>> Tower is going up soon. What's the drill on refurbing the Ham-m IV?
>> I'm not sure this unit really needs any work as of yet.
>
>If it's not broke, don't fix it. Every time you remove those
>four self-tapping screws that hold the two halves of the
>housing together, a little bit of aluminum comes out of the
>upper housing with the steel screws. Eventually, the screws
>will loosen to the point that they can work themselves out of the
>housing. It's rather embarrassing to find the four bolts lying on the
>ground, the lower housing sitting stationary on the rotor plate, and the
>antenna, mast, and upper housing freewheeling in the wind. Those
>self-tapping screws are
>a weak point in the design of the Ham-IV, and are a major reason
>to use a T2X instead, which uses steel nuts and bolts to hold the
>housing together.
>
>
>
>> I have a run of almost 300' to the tower, and I thinking of mounting
>> the
>> rotor starting cap in a junction box at the base. Thoughts?
>
>Not a bad idea, then you can use two runs of Romex for the other
>six wires.
>
>Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
>Yuma, AZ
>K6LL@juno.com
>
>
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>
>
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>
>
>
>
>List Sponsored by AN Wireless: AN Wireless handles Rohn tower systems,
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>
>-----
>FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
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>Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
>
>List Sponsored by AN Wireless: AN Wireless handles Rohn tower systems,
>Trylon Titan towers, coax, hardline and more. Also check out our self
>supporting towers up to 100 feet for under $1500!! http://www.anwireless.com
>
>-----
>FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
>Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
>Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
>Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>
>
List Sponsored by AN Wireless: AN Wireless handles Rohn tower systems,
Trylon Titan towers, coax, hardline and more. Also check out our self
supporting towers up to 100 feet for under $1500!! http://www.anwireless.com
-----
FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
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