With the "improved" configuration, I had trouble with the
thing getting stuck going UP. So a pull down isn't a panacea.
Rick N6RK
Byron Lichtenwalner wrote:
> Anybody tried a positive pull down like many of the current crank up
> towers
> are using?
>
> Byron, W3WKR
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "W5CPT" <w5cpt@bellsouth.net>
> To: "Randall Mullinax" <rcm@icnet.net>
> Cc: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 5:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Question for Hazer owners
>
>
>>I also have been considering a Hazer. The GM literature offers a wheel
>> kit
>>for the Rohn 25 Hazer. They are not spring loaded but I think that it
>> would
>>be a good investment as I also have heard stories about stuck Hazers. The
>>investment for me would be $ while yours will be time, $ and materials.
>>
>> Clint - W5CPT
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Rick Karlquist
>> To: Randall Mullinax
>> Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 3:57 PM
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Question for Hazer owners
>>
>>
>> You have hit on the biggest bugaboo of the Hazer, namely clearances
>> vis a vis any tower imperfections. I have a GM1850 tower with GM
>> Hazer, and it definitely have problems with getting stuck. The
>> original design of the Hazer is fairly loose and allows it to
>> rattle around. With that configuation, if it does get stuck, I
>> can just wiggle a guy wire to shake it loose. I bought a kit
>> from GM to convert to an "improved" configuration using plastic
>> blocks with V grooves that fit the corners of the tower (the
>> tower legs are angles, not pipes). This was a disaster, and
>> was hopeless in terms of getting stuck. I will admit that if you
>> sight along the tower you can detect a very slight warp or twist
>> in it. IMHO, this is no excuse. The Hazer needs to be able to
>> deal with a less than perfect tower. (I bought this tower used,
>> so for all I know, the owner sold it because he was having
>> trouble with it getting stuck).
>>
>> Of course, just making the Hazer loose isn't desirable because
>> then it rattles around in the wind. However, this rattling hasn't
>> been a problem in 4 years. Just realize that you don't want to
>> make it looser than necessary.
>>
>> What I suggest you do in terms of a homebrew Hazer is to make two
>> improvements that GM should have done: use rollers instead of sliders
>> and spring load them with stiff springs. One other thing I don't
>> like about the Hazer is that you are standing at the bottom of
>> the tower cranking the winch. The GM winch doesn't have positive
>> braking and in any event, if something goes wrong, you are a sitting
>> duck underneath the antenna. I do wear a hard hat, which is some
>> protection. If I was homebrewing, I would go with a motorized winch
>> and
>> be done with it.
>>
>> Someone will no doubt post that their GM tower/Hazer works perfectly,
>> etc. I am happy for any satisfied owners, but I stand by my
>> less than desirable experience.
>>
>> Rick N6RK
>>
>>
>>
>> Randall Mullinax wrote:
>> > I've heard all the negatives about the Hazer but I'm getting old and
>> don't
>> > want to climb anymore. I've got an existing 12' face, solid leg,
>> free
>> > standing broadcast tower. The tower doesn't have leg flanges so a
>> hazer
>> > type tram would word but I'll have to home brew one since the tower
>> legs
>> > are larger than a 25G.
>> >
>> > My question of Hazer owners is.....what is the clearance between the
>> Hazer
>> > and the tower leg. It must be a pretty close since I've heard of
>> Hazers
>> > getting stuck due to slightly bowed 25G's. Put another way....what
>> is
>> the
>> > distance between the Hazer frame the tower leg.
>> >
>> > Thanks for any information you can provide.
>> >
>> > 73
>> > Randy
>> > AD5RM
>> > _______________________________________________
>> >
>> >
>> >
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>> > TowerTalk@contesting.com
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>> >
>> >
>>
>>
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