Jamie, I've found the most reliable rotator connector, by far, is the
automotive flat rubber trailer connectors that come with pigtails, which can
be soldered, or butt-spliced to the wires after the factory connector has
been cut off. The pigtails are about a foot long and the connectors come in
4 and, not as common, 6 pin varieties. For CDE/Hygain bell rotators, which
require 8 wires, I use two of the 4 pin pairs and use both a male and a
female on each end so there is no way to mate them wrong. I have never
experienced any problem with these connectors. They are relatively
inexpensive and available at most department, hardware, and auto parts
stores. With their typical pigtail wires, usually 18 ga., they can provide
nearly 2 extra feet of slack after installation too. A Win-Win situation
here for you! If you use butt-splices rather than soldering the connections,
a good crimping tool that indents the butt splice insures good connections
to the existing wires and the connector pigtail wires. The type that just
squeezes does not do a secure job. It must be the type electricians
typically use that significantly indents the butt splice connector and makes
not only a good electrical connection, but a good mechanical connection as
well, that won't ever come loose. Water/moisture ingress does not seem to be
a problem with these connectors or butt splices, when installed properly. I
have used RTV silicon rubber after I was all through with the wiring job, on
all the ends of each butt splice and around the mating rubber surfaces of
each connector, but have found that precautionary measure not to be really
necessary, although it doesn't have any ill effects either and gives one the
feeling of better security from invasion from the elements of nature. If
used, its easily removable from the mating surfaces of the connectors
whenever that may be required. One additional tip I use here...If you keep a
spare rotator, you may wish to wire it with the same configuration as the
rotator in use so if/when replacement is called for, the rotator swap
doesn't require any wiring chores, making any change-over an electrical
"plug-in", not having to do any rotator wiring on the tower in the future.
73, -=Rog-K9RB=-
----- Original Message -----
From: "James C. Hall, MD" <nwtcc@earthlink.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 12:56 AM
Subject: [TowerTalk] OR-2800 pigtail connector
> Hello:
>
> How much a pain in the a$$ is it to hard solder the rotor cable to the
> OR-2800 ie. remove the pigtail connector and solder directly. I have
> discovered that the connector is a water trap and I'm now getting
> unreliable rotor indications, Is there a right way and wrong way to do
> this ? I don't have a lot of slack here. What kind of soldering iron
> is usually carried here ?
>
> 73, Jamie
> WB4YDL
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> See: http://www.mscomputer.com for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless
Weather Stations", and lot's more. Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with any
questions and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.
>
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