Very true then followed by 'Slobbering a pl-259 while on the tower' and then
my favorite "BEE'S"
Jim- WA9FPT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Chudek" <k0rc@citlink.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 15:28 PM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Jetting or Hydraulic-Ning
> TowerTalkians...
>
> It looks like we've got a pretty strong contender to the bi-annual "How do
I find true North?" thread.
>
> Who wooda thunk? :-)
>
> 73 de Bob - K0RC
>
>
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2006 23:41:28 EST
> From: CubexCo@aol.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Jetting or Hydraulic-Ning
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Message-ID: <6a.682579ee.313922f8@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Although the suggested method of using a water jet to run coax under a
drive
> way would also be my choice, I would like to suggest a caution.
>
> Before starting, find out the substructure composition and depth before
> starting your water jet. Most driveways have some form of substrate
consisting of
> crushed stone 3 to 4 inches or more thick. On top of that may be cement,
> black top or a sand base and pavers. It is very easy to undermine the
paver and
> blacktop driveways if you errode the sub base.
>
> Dig down along side of the drive, determine the make up of the structure
and
> its depth. I would go at least 6 inches below the substrate to start your
> water jet.
>
> The other problem is making sure you have excavated enough of a trench to
> allow your jet tube to be parallel to the ground so that you don't angle
your
> tunnel down and end up very deep on the opposite side.
>
> Here in Florida this is an easy task as we are dealing for the most part
with
> Sand. Clay can be a little tougher.
>
> Regards,
> Norm W4QN
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
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