Anybody tried a positive pull down like many of the current crank up towers
are using?
Byron, W3WKR
----- Original Message -----
From: "W5CPT" <w5cpt@bellsouth.net>
To: "Randall Mullinax" <rcm@icnet.net>
Cc: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Question for Hazer owners
>I also have been considering a Hazer. The GM literature offers a wheel kit
>for the Rohn 25 Hazer. They are not spring loaded but I think that it would
>be a good investment as I also have heard stories about stuck Hazers. The
>investment for me would be $ while yours will be time, $ and materials.
>
> Clint - W5CPT
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rick Karlquist
> To: Randall Mullinax
> Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 3:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Question for Hazer owners
>
>
> You have hit on the biggest bugaboo of the Hazer, namely clearances
> vis a vis any tower imperfections. I have a GM1850 tower with GM
> Hazer, and it definitely have problems with getting stuck. The
> original design of the Hazer is fairly loose and allows it to
> rattle around. With that configuation, if it does get stuck, I
> can just wiggle a guy wire to shake it loose. I bought a kit
> from GM to convert to an "improved" configuration using plastic
> blocks with V grooves that fit the corners of the tower (the
> tower legs are angles, not pipes). This was a disaster, and
> was hopeless in terms of getting stuck. I will admit that if you
> sight along the tower you can detect a very slight warp or twist
> in it. IMHO, this is no excuse. The Hazer needs to be able to
> deal with a less than perfect tower. (I bought this tower used,
> so for all I know, the owner sold it because he was having
> trouble with it getting stuck).
>
> Of course, just making the Hazer loose isn't desirable because
> then it rattles around in the wind. However, this rattling hasn't
> been a problem in 4 years. Just realize that you don't want to
> make it looser than necessary.
>
> What I suggest you do in terms of a homebrew Hazer is to make two
> improvements that GM should have done: use rollers instead of sliders
> and spring load them with stiff springs. One other thing I don't
> like about the Hazer is that you are standing at the bottom of
> the tower cranking the winch. The GM winch doesn't have positive
> braking and in any event, if something goes wrong, you are a sitting
> duck underneath the antenna. I do wear a hard hat, which is some
> protection. If I was homebrewing, I would go with a motorized winch and
> be done with it.
>
> Someone will no doubt post that their GM tower/Hazer works perfectly,
> etc. I am happy for any satisfied owners, but I stand by my
> less than desirable experience.
>
> Rick N6RK
>
>
>
> Randall Mullinax wrote:
> > I've heard all the negatives about the Hazer but I'm getting old and
> don't
> > want to climb anymore. I've got an existing 12' face, solid leg, free
> > standing broadcast tower. The tower doesn't have leg flanges so a
> hazer
> > type tram would word but I'll have to home brew one since the tower
> legs
> > are larger than a 25G.
> >
> > My question of Hazer owners is.....what is the clearance between the
> Hazer
> > and the tower leg. It must be a pretty close since I've heard of
> Hazers
> > getting stuck due to slightly bowed 25G's. Put another way....what is
> the
> > distance between the Hazer frame the tower leg.
> >
> > Thanks for any information you can provide.
> >
> > 73
> > Randy
> > AD5RM
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
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> > TowerTalk@contesting.com
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> >
> >
>
>
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