If color isn't an issue you could ask the local auto body shop to shoot it
with left over spray. I've had a few things done that way. As long as it's
clean and ready for paint they charge me just a few bucks and that 3 part
paint sticks forever.
Bob-
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Mark Robinson
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 12:38 PM
To: Roger (K8RI); TOWERTALK@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] painting DOM
Take a look at POR paint. It sets up really hard.
http://www.por15.com/
Zinc Chromate paint..not sure how hard it is but it loves to stick to
galvanized steel and aluminum.
If it was me I would try the POR paint and smother it with grease.
Mark N1UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger (K8RI)" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
To: <TOWERTALK@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, 27 May, 2010 2:46 AM
Subject: [TowerTalk] painting DOM
>I have three sections of 2" OD DOM to paint. Two sections will be
> spliced in the 45G and run through two sleeve bearings above the rotator
> which will support all the weight. The paint needs to be really durable
> because of the sleeve bearings, boom to mast clamps, and raising fixtures.
>
> Epoxy paint does not stand up well and the spray on stuff is very fragile.
>
> Rustoleum? I don't know how mechanically durable it'd be. The sleeve
> bearings will be greased and have rubber gaskets protecting them, but it
> doesn't take much pressure to flake paint off steel. Also it's amazing
> how much space you have to leave between the OD of the inner sleeve and
> the ID of the outer sleeve. Just a 1/16" of paint requires an 1/8"
> difference between the two.
>
> Any suggestions for a good strong, long lasting, durable paint. I do
> have a spray gun.
>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
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