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Re: [Amps] Cutting G-10 Board

To: gm3sek@ifwtech.co.uk, amps@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] Cutting G-10 Board
From: "Will Matney" <craxd1@verizon.net>
Reply-to: craxd1@verizon.net
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 13:01:12 -0400
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
Ian,

Your correct. I wouldn't use a Dremel tool on anything above 0.060" thick which 
is regular PC board like most everything uses. Then you need the router 
attachment and a two flute straight cutter with a 1/8" diameter. They make 
both, and I bought mine at Lowes who are a home building supply here in the 
states. By the way, the newer Dremel tools have a little more torque than the 
old ones did. These are the ones that you can use a flex shaft hand tool with.

If I were to cut anything over 0.060" material, I'd try one of those new zip 
routers with a 1/4 inch bit. They are designed to cut blue board which is the 
hard stuff you place behind tile in a shower. That stuff is 1/2" thich so a 
0.25" thick piece of PC board shouldn't be a problem. If you have a regular 
small router, it would work as well, probably better.

Best,

Will

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 8/30/06 at 1:43 PM Ian White GM3SEK wrote:

>Peter Chadwick wrote:
>>> Does anyone has advice on how to make straight cuts on 1/8" G-10 board
>> material(actually, it is G-11 but very close to being the same as G-10)?
> <
>>
>Several people have suggested cutting it roughly first, and then 
>finishing off with some kind of router and a straight-edge. This is a 
>job for a real router, though. Even a bottom-of-market 1/4-in router 
>will be far more powerful than a Dremel tool, and also much safer.
>
>>If you're cutting much of it, get a diamond saw. Fibreglass plays merry 
>>hell with saw blades - and guillotine (shear) blades, too.A powered 
>>jigsaw and a piece of steel strip clamped to it for a guide is useful. 
>>Even, with care, a handheld tenon saw.
>
>For finishing with a router, you'd need a tungsten carbide tipped 
>cutter. Also it isn't worth spending more than $25 on the router, 
>because the abrasive dust will get inside that too.
>
>
>>A dust mask is HIGHLY advisable, as is working outdoors.
>
>Especially when cutting fibreglass with power tools... and don't forget 
>ear defenders (in later life, I'm learning the cost of that).
>
>
>-- 
>73 from Ian GM3SEK         'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
>http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
>
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